Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Loping From Fast Idle To Almost Off
Oct 4, 2014
Went with my best friend to pick up his new Super Duty and also visit his Grandfather in Easter Washington. The new 2014 F30 is wonderful. His Grandfathers Ford / Mercury Escort Wagon had the timing belt break and a local shop replaced it, ran good for two days then started loping. When cold it starts and runs great in about 2 min it comes off of cold loop and then starts loping from fast idle to all most off. (never seen a motor RPM drop so low and not stop) when you put it in gear it runs, we did not drive it but Grandfather said it drove home ok just started not idling when in neutral or park.
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I have a 2000 3.0 manual tranny, the motor went in the truck months ago. I put a new motor in it but that took me many months to do. Now I just finished up putting it all back together and now it wont turn over, when the ignition is on the theft light flashes fast. could there be a reset procedure at all? i had the battery disconnected for months.
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I found an interesting thing, when I start the truck right away without waiting for the glow plug light to completely cycle (Engine at operating temp) the engine will lope REALLY bad. Now, when I wait for the glow plug light to finish and then start the engine, it runs as normal. I checked and cleaned the PCM pins for the chip and everything is good. Ghosts & gremlins.
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I have a 98 F150, 4.2 V-6, 183,000 miles.. Lately, she's been loping at idle. Especially while in gear... almost stalls. Once revved up, everything seems normal. Still goes up hills fine if I get on the gas. The light was on, and I got codes for lean condition on both banks.. (P0174, P0175).
I already cleaned all the sensors in front of the intake.
The MAF was real dirty, and the IAC was full of soot too.
They both cleaned up nicely, but it didn't work.
I borrowed a fuel pressure gauge yesterday, and it showed 12 psi with the "key on, engine off".
It showed 29-30 @ idle, and only went up to 35 when I revved it a little.
The guy at the store said the range is supposed to be "30-45 psi with the ignition on", but I'm not sure if that means engine running or not..?
Either way, it looks like the pressure is on the low side, so I'm going to change the fuel filter next (and hope for the best).
If the fuel filter doesn't fix it, what should I go after next? And, is there a way to test the fuel pressure regulator before buying a new one?
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My '05 Excursion recently started having rough idle and some loping when started cold. It seems to run good and idles pretty good when it warms up. I'm also getting a P0488 code (EGR Throttle Control Circuit A Range/Performance). I do have a BPD EGR and I don't recall if that would throw a code alone? I'm taking a trip next week and want to get it straightened out. Does it sound like an EGR valve issue?
I also thought about a battery issue, I know that can cause weird problems. I have Duralast batteries and they always seem to fail at about 2-3 years. I took it in and they say it tested good but I'm not always sure with them. Long story, but when cranking for longer than normal, the cranking power would drop quite a bit. Checked battery and had some corrosion. Cleaned and upon further inspection, the positive post is a bit eroded at the base and sunken in. The voltage was about 12.35 after sitting all night, a couple of the cells were reading lower than the others (about 50%, other 75%) when checked specific gravity. I tested voltage after batteries had been in the truck overnight, then unhooked from truck when testing.
I also thought about a glow plug/harness issue. The truck cranks for awhile before starting, 5-6 seconds sometimes, but not all the time. It starts up pretty quickly when warm. That's been going on for some time. Anyway, I will try to get a video of the rough start after cools down.
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I have a 1993 Geo Prizm (Toyota Corolla) that idles roughly and lopes only when the engine is fully warmed up to operating temp. I changed the plugs, and wires are only 1 year old and seem to be in good shape. I suspected a vacuum leak, but have not been able to find one.
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I recently acquired a 4.0 Ranger 4X4 Auto for my use in Costa Rica. It runs fine but it'll illuminate the CEL within a few seconds of starting and whenever revs fall below approx 1000. When pulling off the line or accelerating, the light will go out but comes back on when the throttle closes. The previous owner has replaced the MAF and idle air valve. I've corrected a lot of issues with the vacuum system and think it's back where it ought to be. I know I am going to need to pull the codes but I'm back in Dallas now and can't do it yet. Need general list of affected parts that I could buy here and take back down.
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When I am at idle, the compressor keeps turning on and off every few seconds. It seems to work fine while driving. What do I need to do to fix this?
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My 04 ranger is back at it AGAIN. It started about 3 years ago.
- Cruising along on the highway and then come into town. Idles at 2000 RPM
- Shut it off. and restart it. Again, 2000 RPM.
- Shut it off and it idles normal
- Drive it 2-3 day and then it idles high again
- I have clean and functioned the IAC and it works fine
- Cleaned throttle body and I never can get it to stick.
- Replaced throttle cable
It still was idling high
- Replaced ECM and it idled normal for about 1 year
- Replaced em again and it idled normal for about 6 months
It is back at it again. For what ever reason the EM is telling the IAC to open up and raise the idle...
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Allright, I seem to be having these very strange sounds at idle. Mostly when I am in Drive and waiting at a red light. In Park, it isn't as bad it seems.
One sound is knocking. A kinda slow one and irregular. Not a motor knock tho. Doesn't sound like that. It also kinda clicks from under. So, those both sounds come from under or the sides of the truck.
Should I worry about this? I've had these sounds since I've got the truck. Sometimes louder than usuall.
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88 ranger. 2.9L manual. Just bought this truck. It ran great when I bought it. After a day or 2 it would idle rough. Almost die but it wouldn't. No check engine light. It seemed to do this intermittently. Some times I'd start it and it be fine. Other times I'd start it and I'd expect it to die at each stop light.
Now for the last couple days it dies on every start up. It won't idle. It'll start right away and then die. I can keep it going by keeping the engine rev'd but the check engine light is one. If I keep it running and start driving down the road it'll drive with the check engine light on for about 5 minutes. Then the light goes out and it runs like normal, even at idle, until I shut it off. Then it's the same story at next start whether it's right after I shut it off or hours later.
It doesn't seem to matter whether the engine is hot or cold. When the check engine light is out, it runs great the rest of the time whether at speed or at idle. To me it sounds like a sensor is on it way out. I figure if it was vacuum, it happen at every idle, and if it was fuel it happen all the time or at least every idle. Tried to get a code at parts store but the reader wouldn't work. It couldn't tell it was plugged in the the truck for some reason.
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i have a 97 ranger xl with 2.3. it was recently crashed in the front, air bags deployed. i fixed the bodywork but couldn't get it to run properly. it starts but will not idle. i have replaced the iac , evr , maf. fuel pressure holds 35-40 psi running does not leak down after engine stops
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My son bout his first truck yesterday. 98 ranger sc 4x4 auto 4.0. Beautiful shape 139000 miles. got it cheap as it has issues. its been parked for a year. It has a surging idle when you start it up. rev it to 2500-3000 rpm and it idles fine turn it off and restart it surges again until you rev it. When we test drove it it ran like it was running out of gas/bad fuel pump, sputter at full throttle but accelerate at part throttle. Gauge said under 1/4 tank of gas. We put 3 gallons of gas in it when we got home and it seems to run fine now other than the idle surge. it had a 174 code(lean bank) but if it was running out of gas it should pull a lean code right? I am thinking IAC or intake leak.
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On startup, hot or cold, I get an initial high idle, up to around 1800 rpm's. This happens immediately when engine starts, and then idles right down. This has done this since new in '04. Dealer at that time said it was normal and not to worry. It's always made me wonder, but I trusted the dealer. Ya, not always smart.
After 92k miles. Engine runs fine otherwise, but I don't really care for grabbing a bunch of rpm's on any engine without having the oil pressure up to normal.
A few weeks ago, I started it up, and some yahoo said he knew I drove big trucks by the way I started my Ranger. That was one of those times. I'm thinking IAC is wide open maybe?
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I have a 99 Ranger w/3.0. It idles about 1500 rpm cold,and 1200 warm. Here are the things that I have tried.
1.Checked ALL vacumn hoses/lines
2.Changed Air idle control sensor
3.Throttle position sensor
4.removed and completely cleaned throttle plate in throttle body.
5. removed top of intake manifold and checked for cracks and/or leaky gasket.
Nothing seems to change. Could it be a faulty ecm?
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Engine runs rough at idle. Two plugs are black and just replaced head gaskets. I installed new short block and new heads six months ago. I can't seem to figure out the problem and I would like to trouble shoot more before tearing heads off and going any further.
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I have a 2005 ranger, 3.0 and automatic trans
The truck runs fine until it is warm... runs great down highway... stopping at a light or stop sign is horrible, It will act like the (old term ) carb is flooding out.
I put it on a meter It said tps so I replaced it. then it said number 4 cyl no power so I put new plugs in.... I do not hear any vacuum leaks, and It runs like a top when cold.
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My 92 ranger, 2wd, 6 cyl, manual trans, is running at about 3500 rpm at idle. I was wondering what might be the cause, maybe something with the throttle or could the gauge be screwed up.
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I understand there is not much adjustable on my 98 Ranger (2.5L) as far as idle speed and mixture. It runs rough when started cold. Is this a sign to replace spark plugs?
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Last night I decided to see if I couldn't do something about my leaky carburetor in my 1983 ranger. It's a motorcraft 2150 carb. I took it all apart and followed a guide to clean it, then put it all back together and reinstalled it today. Unfortunately my truck won't idle, makes a whiny noise, and acts odd with the accelerator.
I've got a video posted here : 1983 Ranger Carb troubles - YouTube ....
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Misfire is on #6. Feels like a partial miss, not every revolution, and there's no noticeable miss while cruising or holding a higher rpm in neutral. It's a B3000 with 97k miles. New Motorcraft plugs, new wires, 10.7k ohms across coil terminals (1-5, 2-6, 3-4).
I've swapped plug wires between cylinders and side-to-side on the coil. I also sprayed MAF cleaner all around the intake looking for a leaky gasket. I feel pretty confident I'm looking at a bad/dirty injector or valve issue. I plan on doing a compression test next and hopefully nail it down to one or the other.
I'm asking for input on my diagnosis so far. And how difficult is it to replace the injector? Will I need to remove the upper intake?
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