Ford Ranger / B-Series :: No Movement From Starter Motor When Key Is Turned To Start
Jun 17, 2017
I have a 2002 Ford Ranger with a 3.0L engine that is having some issues with starting, here is what is happening.
Every so so often when the key is turned to start there is no movement from the starter motor. The battery is fine and all of the dash lights stay on while the engine is not starting. I have replaced the starter with a remanufactured model (possibly a mistake), and also replaced the clutch interlock switch.
I have attempted to change the ignition switch but the replacement I received did not even try to turn the starter (after many tries), like possibly it was faulty out of the box. I am currently using the OEM ignition switch as it will at least turn the starter eventually. I just worry that this problem will develop further at the wrong time.
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I have a 2002 Ford Ranger, and it wont start at all. Ive replaced the starter, had the battery checked. Not the battery, took starter out, had it checked too, its not the starter either. Someone said it maybe a fuse? This is totally frustrating, and I need to get it figured and fixed asap. Its been going on for weeks., I had it fixed and then it just stopped. It wont even take a jump anymore.
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I have a 95 Ford Ranger 2.3L with a five speed. I recently had a starting issue were I parked the truck, went into a store came back out and the truck wouldn't start. Figured it was the solenoid as I couldn't jump across it to get the truck to start. Replaced the solenoid. Still no go. Found a fuse in the starting circuit blown. Replaced the fuse and got it started and drove home. Next morning, I go to leave for work and the truck would not start. Got a ride to work came home and checked it over and found the starter locked up. I replaced the starter. Truck started for a few days and now I am having problems again.
Here is the problem I am having now. Starter is good. Proved that as I can start the truck by jumping across the starter relay. Checked the solenoid with a voltmeter and it is doing what it is supposed to do when the truck starts normal. Here is where I am scratching my head. I can start the truck sometimes and it starts just fine. Next time I try to start it, the fuse will blow.
Replace the fuse and it might work for a couple of starts and then the fuse will blow again. I jumped pass the fuse with a piece of wire for diagnostic purposes. Out of 20 starts, it only started normally 4 or 5 times. I have checked every wire I can see under the dash and have not found any obvious issues. I am at a point where I am so frustrated that I just want to push this 400k mile truck into the back forty and put it out of its misery like a lame horse.
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Will move if n 4low and give some rpm's. Reverse is fine, disassembled and clutches look fine.
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I have 1994 ranger 2.3 2wd will not start when key is turned to start position - when clutch is depressed there is a click from fender mounted solenoid but it never cranks motor or starter--I need wiring diagram to trace origin of wire on starter solenoid because it does not have 12volts on it--when I jumper 12v on it and have it in neutral it starts up and runs but no voltage and no start with key....
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My ranger decided to start leaking fuel somewhere probably a few weeks ago. I can smell it whenever I start the motor, and sometimes while driving with the windows down. Last night, I finally looked into the problem. I took the intake air hose off. The hose, air filter, and whole intake smells like gas. I'm thinking that shouldn't be the case on a fuel injected engine. After seeing some people talk about the Fuel Pressure Regulator go bad, I pulled the vacuum line off of it, and it has a very strong gas smell. I don't see any gas coming out of it, though, even with the motor running. Everything I read says if the regulator is bad, then gas should come out of the vacuum line. Is there another check I can do on it to confirm this is the problem? Is there somewhere else I should be looking? It got two new heads right before this problem started, so its quite possible I knocked something putting it back together.
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1999 XTL 4.0 auto, was doing fine, replaced Interior light bulb, now wont crank over!!! i suspect the anti theft system... how do i fix or ByPass the security system, i can start the truck by Manually engaging the starter Relay under the hood.
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My daughter's boyfriend just bought a 2000 ranger with a 2.5. We just put a flexplate in it and it wouldn't start. Just turned over. Listened for the fuel pump and no noise. After a few minutes, it worked. He drove it home last night and said that it didn't want to work first try but worked with the second try. He drove it to church, 40 miles, and it sit for around two hours and wouldn't start, no matter how many tries.
We tried changing the relays around with no luck. We went and eat lunch and back to the truck with a rubber hammer. Then it starts on the second try without using the hammer. We got under it and cleaned the connections up and put some bulb grease on them. I couldn't get the one apart right on top of the pump itself, I was afraid of breaking it. It's been doing fine since we left the church before we cleaned the connections.
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So my sister has a 2000 Ranger 2.5L. I put in a new starter today for her today, and the second I re attach the battery terminal it turns over but wont fire.?
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Its and 03 ranger with a 4.0 auto and it grinds after starting and it doesn't always start smoothly, like it hops around till it finally starts, kind of like the starter wont disengage. Do I start with a new starter or is more than likely a flexplate issue? I hope its just a starter.
YouTube video : 2012-02-16_15-35-45_211 - YouTube
2nd problem is it hesitates a second or so before it goes into gear and clicks in hard, kind of like when you are low on oil, but its not low on oil. It also shifts hard. When I got it the column bolts were loose so the shifter was floppy, I am wondering is someone tried to fix it the wrong way. Also now its pretty stiff to move the shifter selector.
Also what tranny is in it, it may be some sort of heavy duty unit, it was an x electrical municipality vehicle, it appears to have an 8.8 and heavy duty rear springs. Door tag reads axle rd, tr D, and spr 2c...
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Well it all started when I was having starter issues my starter died and my solenoid was just clicking and after time there was no power at all to anything in the truck i have replaced the solenoid and starter and check battery and cleaned post and terminals. I am going to replace my negative cable as it was pretty bad but if this still does not work, so what to look for. The truck is an 87 ford ranger 4x4 5 speed with a 2.9....
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But here's too my question. I recently bought a 2wd Ford ranger 2.9 automatic. Bought not running. They said it wouldn't turn over that there was something wrong with the starter. I figured it was the neutral safety switch turned out it was there's a wire broke on it. I can get in there touch the wires together and it'll turn over. But I can't fix it because the shifting linkage is In the way. I'm wondering how too take it off. I've never worked on one before. And I don't wanna mess up my gears.
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So I turned off my truck the other day, got out, and it started again on its own. Confused, I looked in my hand to see my key. I got back in, and tapped the brake thinking the command start had engaged, even though I did not have the remote with me. It continued to run. So I put the key back in the ignition, turned it to ON and back OFF. It still ran. I had to run inside for a half a minute so I left it running.
Came back and drove away with no issues. When I stopped again about 2 minutes later and shifted to PARK, the starter engaged making it's terrible 'hey stupid, I'm already running' sound. I tried shutting it OFF quickly but it still ran and made it's skinning crawling noise. So I quickly shifted back to DRIVE. All the gears worked fine but PARK and NEUTRAL had the starter engaging. I also could not shut the truck off from DRIVE as the key would not turn.
I drove over to a local garage and called them from the truck as I was effectively trapped in the truck with my foot on the brake, unable to shift to PARK or turn it OFF. No supporting staff. So I drove back to work where I had a co-worker remove the battery cable at which point I was able to shift to PARK and turn OFF the truck. I let it sit like that for about 10 minutes and haven't had a problem since.
What happened?? And for the record I can put gas in the tank and changed my own oil, but that is the extent of my vehicle knowledge.
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My truck will fire while the starter is engaged ,but stalls when the key is in the run position. This is my plow truck and I don't want to go through the winter without it.
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My 88 2.3l 5 speed ranger was running fine then i went to start it up again and it wouldn't turn any of the cylinders or none of the belts move. i can hear the fuel pump turn on for about a second every time, there is weak fuel pressure at the rail. Why wouldn't the engine crank? the starter does not turn the belts and all i hear is a whizzing sound. it sounds as if the starter is spinning but not engaging.
I have had problems with the fuel pump relays but those are all taped up pretty good. I am leaning towards a clogged fuel filter or bad fuel pump. but even with a bad fuel pump or clogged filter wouldn't the engine try to crank even with low fuel pressure? I have a new battery in there. I checked all the fuses in the kick panel. I will check the inertia switch wires as the inertia switch has been disabled.
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My MILaw Truck 1992 ranger isnt running good and I need to get it going
Only a P0111 at this time IIRC
We started the truck tonight and idel ok Could see the motor Stumble every so often. She went to drive it and it Cuts out under Load Or you must rev it up to keep it from Stalling.
And if it does Cut out you have to let it sit for 5 minutes to restart what is Weird is it dont Smell Flooded either I smelled the VAC Line to the FPR and it was DRY and Did NOT Smell like Fuel.
It was dark didnt do much trouble shoot as the Flashlight died. I wonder about Fuel Filters. And Also about the Idel Control. The Mis or Stumble seams Random
Any testing I can do I have a DVM and that Code Reader. Might have to find something to check fuel press with where would I check it at the fuel rail I assume. Going to try and go over the Basics tomorrow If there is Anything Specific I should check?
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How do you remove this clip holding the wiper linkage to the back of the motor? I can't see what kind of clip it is to know how to remove it. Ford says to remove the wiper pivot and let it drop. Is that necessary? I can't barely get to the back of the motor so I'm having to feel the clip and remove it but since I don't even know what kind of clip it is it makes it so much harder. Does the cowl cover not come off or is it just this access panel?
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1996 Ranger 2.3. I bought it from a friend 2 months ago. 228,866 miles. The motor seems to stumble as I'm going through the gears. I've cleaned the mass air flow sensor and installed new air filter. Check engine light has always been on, O'Reillys hooked up their computer to it and said Emission Valve Malfunction. I see the charcoal canister, then I have 2 electrical sensors on same line. First one from canister looks like what Rockauto.com shows as a Vapor Canister Purge Valve. The photo has it with a yellow orangeish top. I don't know what this 2nd sensor is. It has a blue top.
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I just changed my front brakes in my 05 Ranger. New rotors, pads, bearings (packed), racers, new caliper on driver side, bleed all for brakes. Now when I am just about to stop it feels like the left front is grabbing. I also hear the ABS motor humming when it grabbs. Don't whats causing it?
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Turn air conditioner on transmission goes into limp mode??
1999 ranger 2 door 2,5 engine long wheel base,,auto trans.
2wd no power windows no power seats....
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I saw a nice very clean 2011 ranger with 63,000 miles on it . But there looks like it has a oil leak on the upper right front of the motor. Behind the pulley that does not have any groves in it . It could be a gasket or a oil seal I don't know. Is this oil leak something common with the 2.3 engine?
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