When I get over 45MPH, I notice a whop, whop sound. It speeds up as my speed increases. I have had the tires check and rebalanced, but that wasn't it. I have tried just revving the engine when in neutral, but I don't hear the noise. Could it be u-joints, or is there something else?
View 9 Replies1999 ford ranger 2X4 manual trans. My back up lights work sometimes and sometimes not.
View 1 Repliesi have a 02 ranger 4by4 with 4.0.every time i try to fuel the pu it spits gas back out the fill tube and i have to fill it very slow to get fuel in it.i just replaced the filler neck about 6 mos ago due to having a hole in the the hose by the local ford dealer,
View 6 RepliesGot a 1986 Ranger 2.3 EFI 5 speed that I have owned since it was almost new and will never let it go. 290,000 mls and still running strong "except". Noticed the last couple of months that when I start it cold it fires right off. If I start it hot it always takes 3 tries and always goes on the third try except....on occasion it will not start at all. It is random and after I let it cool a bit (about 30 min) it will start. Over the years I have replace many of the fuel system components (fuel tank pump, high press. pump, inline filter and canister filter, fuel press regulator) but wondering what else might be the problem.
I put a pressure tester on it the other day and when I selected the key to start the pump would spool up to build pressure and shut off. The press gauge would register that but the pressure would immediately go back to zero. After start up it would hold a constant 30psi at all rpm,s. Shut the engine off and pressure drops right down to zero. Shouldn't the system hold pressure for at least a while after shut down? Could this be the problem with my sluggish starts? What would be the normal fuel pressure? Can't seem to find it in my Haynes manual. Once running it runs great.
I was driving my 85 2.3 liter down the road and it died all of a sudden like and wont start back up. I took out a plug to check for spark and had someone turn it over and I touched it to the big metal part the grill connects to at the top but I got nothing. It IS getting gas. The spark plug was white as if it was really hot and rough-looking for its relative newness. I bought a new distributor cap because it was corroded, but it didnt work. They tested the ignition module at the store and its good, so I am thinking distributor?? Also, could compression issues keep it from sparking? I am a little worried it got over-heated somehow, but don't know....
View 9 RepliesBackground - I just got done changing a few things... Exhaust Manifold/gasket, battery cables, valve cover gasket, oil cooler gasket and hoses, power steering pump and hoses, and ball joints. Most of this has nothing to do with the issue that came up as I am driving it back to return it to her.
While out on the freeway, I initially notice subtle power losses and surges. These quickly escalate into almost total power loss with back firing, sputtering and much more noticeable surges in power. The check engine light was turning off then on a few times before pretty much deciding to stay on.
So I nurse it back home on back roads due to its inability to maintain freeway speeds. I proceed to check everything I touched paying special attention to the exhaust manifold and surrounding area. The new manifold came from the j/y and was barely used so I had initially just stuck with the O2 sensor that came with it; I changed this to the one the vehicle had previously been employing as it was not exhibiting these symptoms until after the job was done. I also double checked all the hoses, intake tube, wires and connectors; everything is connected.
From here, I research the method of pulling codes on OBD-1 vehicles by making the check engine light flash. It flashed a 111 and a 172 at the same time; the information I could find said the 111 means everything is normal, and the 172 suggested O2 or MAF. I am reasonably sure the O2 is not the problem so I focused on the MAF. Disconnecting it while running seemed to improve the way it idled so via the process of deduction, which also included the consideration of typical symptoms of MAF sensor failure, I proceeded to replacing the MAF sensor which amounted to little improvement.
At this moment in time the check engine light has not returned but it is clearly not in a drive-able state of being. It actually seems to have ever so slightly improved though.
Additionally, the symptoms only exist when the engine is hot and has been driven; it drives normally for 5-10 minutes until it gets to operating temperature then it starts to crap out. After changing the MAF sensor, I let it idle for 20 minutes and it was fine until about 2 minutes into the test drive.
Speculation - I am thinking spark plugs could also be a culprit as its has been forever since a tune-up but the sudden onset of this condition make me doubt this a little; it also has 8 plugs so even if one or two crapped out it should still run better than this I would think.
I have a 2007 Ranger XLT 2 Door Extracab and have a question about the seats in this vehicle. I'm a 6' 1" guy and have long legs. I've lamented how little travel the seats (esp the drivers seat) has. Since I have long legs I have the seat as far back as it apparently goes. On long trips, this becomes exceedingly uncomfortable. To top it off, I had a knee injury recently and the range of motion of my knees are less than normal, making it impossible to drive the truck with the limited ability to move the seat further back.. My question is: Is there a way to get the seat to go further back, without extensive engineering work? I've noticed this seems to be a Ford thing as my wife's 2012 Escape has the same problem.
View 1 Replies2000, 2.5L standard transmission. IAC replaced about 2 years ago, DPFE sensor and vacuum hoses replaced early last summer. Truck has been running just fine until I washed it last night. Went to work, and when coming to a stop and pressing in the clutch, engine starts to race without coming back to idle. Had to turn the truck off in order to get the engine from racing. Same thing on the way home. What else can/should I be looking at? I did not open the hood to wash the engine off, so it can't be water from the wash.
View 7 RepliesWhich one is the ect? One is the ect and one is a switch for something?
Just gone done switching that POS plastic thermostat housing thing, both sensors were replaced not sure which one is throwing the code.
I have cleared the code and it keeps coming back.
i just rebuilt the motor in my 2002 ford ranger 3.0 and it wont start it cranks over but back fires and bucks alot. took the plugs out and it gets spark and fuel. when it sparks it sparks like multiple times.
View 3 RepliesI am working on a 96 Mazda b2300 auto 2wd for a friend. His son was driving it when a loud noise, it died and wouldn't start back up. He had it towed to my house, I started to tear into to it and found it slipped the timing belt. So a rebuilt head, gaskets, timing belt, fuel injectors, water pump, thermostat, plugs, and fluids; tried to start it and nothing. Started troubleshooting and found the primary coil pack was out of spec, replaced and still nothing.
Changed out the CKPS still nothing? I have spark, I have fuel, I'm going to check compression tomorrow but the way the cylinders and pistons looked I don't think that is the issue but I going to check anyway, rechecked the timing marks they all lined up. Checked the fuel inertia switch not tripped. Could the PCM, or ICM cause a no start, and still be able to get spark and fuel?
The key cylinder is basically not engaging anything. The key rotates all the way from auxiliary to start but there's no resistance anywhere, just sort of flops back and forth. I put in a new cylinder just now and luckily it engaged the starter just enough so I was able to get the car home from my wife's work but of course once in my driveway the key would not turn the car off. So if the cylinder is good then what should I check next?
On a side note, what's an easy way to turn the car off next time this happens? Disconnecting the battery didn't work, then I couldn't find an inertia switch. I finally disconnected the alternator with lots of sparks but it did shut the engine off.
It's been a rough night already and I still need to figure out how to get the Ranger I left at my wife's work. The Bronco's got no insurance and my wife can't drive a stick anyway, same issue with the motorcycle. Thinking I'm in for a 10 mile bicycle ride.
96 Ranger x cab 4.0 ltr automatic... Starts fine, runs fine until I stop.
When I stop, the engine idles oddly - it slows and speeds back up, tachometer and the battery gauges both lower just a bit and immediately return to normal. When the headlights are on, they dim in rhythm when the gauges dip. It does not do this in park or neutral.
Sometimes it does it right away. Sometimes it doesn't do this at all. Of course it did not do this when I took it to the shop. The battery is nearly new. Cables are fine. Alternator checked out ok.
I have a 99 Ranger 4.0 4x4. When driving on a hill, the truck cuts back and looses power. I can press the pedal and go into passing gear and it will pick up speed but that is the only way the speed will increase and not slow down. The truck jerks when this happens.
Things I have tried:
Replace all plugs and wires
Replaced Coil Pack
Replaced Mass Air Flow sensor
Replaced O2 sensor
Replaced throttle cable
Took truck out of overdrive
Changed to better grade of gas
Changed oil
I had Cat. Converter checked
There are no codes showing. Truck may drive OK on one trip but act up on the return. It seems to use a lot more gas when it is acting up. I now have run out of options that I know about.
I have a 96 ranger with the l4. Right before I bought my newish truck last December, it's started miss firing and running really bad. I replaced the spark plug wires, most of the spark plugs, and both coil packs. Didn't work at all. Then I bought my new truck and parked. Fast forward to now. Fired it up, ran REALLY bad. We changed the wiring order from the 96 order to the 99 order.
But the truck idles from 500rpm (barely running) and randomly jumps up to 2-3000rpm and then back down. Driving it has NO power, rev it and it stays at 2-3000 for quite awhile. Sometimes it randomly dies. REALLY need to get it running quick and cheap. Getting ready to sell my daily driver to find something else and I need something to drive while I hunt for another truck.
I have a 99 Super Cab 4x4, 4.0, XLT. The radio has terrible static and the back lighting of the climate control goes off and comes on at different intervals. Are the two issues related?
View 1 Replies1991 2.3L 5 speed .... Okay here's my list of issues.... At idle will stall out, its almost as if i shut the key off, or sometimes taking off it'll sputter and stall, fuel filter has been changed. Back part of the tranny housing leaks, is there a gasket for that?
View 3 RepliesI recently bought a 2006 Ranger with supposedly 110000 miles... I don't think I made a good deal... because I found the stabilizer end link in terrible shape which seems suspicious for this mileage in my personal opinion!? But this isn't the reason I am posting today... I have a serious breaking issue and I couldn't find explanation yet.
My ABS Light is on. When I slowly brake at low speed and when the brake is almost completely depressed... I hear a low humming sound, and the brake pedal seems to momentarily drop back just slightly. This also happens when I'm going down hill and breaking. For the most part, the car breaks, and it's only every 8th or 10th time braking that I experience this issue.
My guess is this is linked to the ABS... but I can't afford expensive service and need to resolve this on my own.
Driving home from work (a 30 minute hwy cruise) I had to stop for a traffic light. As was sitting there I hear a thumping noise from under the hood, otherwise it was running the same as always. Got it home and I didn't hear it anymore, looked under the hood while idling, seen nothing, shut it off. top rad hose had a slight amount of pressure, started it and it quickly built pressure and felt a rhythmic thumping in hose and it got fricking hot quickly. I figure either a head gasket or cracked head.
I just recently did an aggressive cooling system flush using Prestone heavy duty cooling system flush (can only get this at a dealer) because the previous own neglected it, and it blew a head gasket, tons of rust inside when I did it. I'm gonna borrow a tester to check for exhaust gas in the cooling system and what did it end up being? The guy I bought it from (the previous owners mechanic) put 1 or 2 head gaskets on it.
So my ranger was having a textbook wheel-bearing noise at around 50mph....when I turned to the right the noise went away implicating a passenger side wheel bearing.
So I replaced both of the hub bearings on the pass side and noticed that the front axle shaft u-joint right behind the spindle was really bad and was going to change it but couldn't get the spindle off so I said screw it.
Took it for a drive and the noise is still there. Could a worn u-joint possible replicate a wheel bearing noise? I am used to them making a clicking/popping noise while turning when they're bad, but not a whirring sound.
1993 ranger 4x4 manual locking hubs.
I have a 89 Ranger, 2.3, 2wd, Mazda 5 spd. Last year, 10,000 miles ago, I replaced the clutch, pressure plate, slave cyl, and pilot bearing. Today, it started making a terrible grinding sound/vibration when you let off the gas. The noise is coming from the clutch/transmission area. It is so bad that any amount of "engine braking" sounds terrible and I have to press the clutch in and the noise immediately stops. What to check for?
The only thing I can think of off the cuff is
1) bad pilot bearing,
2) low/no tranny oil. I replaced the oil and put silicone on the known leaky spots while I had the tranny out,
3) Input shaft had some "wobble" in it when I had the tranny out to replace clutch 10,000 miles ago.
This could be it but why would it start 10k miles later?