Ford Ranger / B-Series :: O/D Shifting In And Out At Speeds Over 50 MPH
Dec 25, 2013
My o/d has started shifting in and out at speeds over 50mph. It looks like it happens for the tiniest changes in engine loading. A windy day plays havoc and mild inclines. Sometimes the o/d light starts blinking until I switch off then operates normally. Extended warm-up driving seems to work. I've been told the rear axle speed sensor may be going bad but I have no confidence in the advice. I am driving an '02 ranger, 3L flex fuel, 2wd and just went over 100k. The atf is at the correct level but the fluid needs changing in my opinion. There are no engine codes.
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I have a 2001 Ranger edge edition with extended cab, 3.0L engine, auto tranny (I believe it is a 5R55E) with 95000 miles. I am currently having some rough shift problems going from 2 to 3 and 3 to 4. I had the transmission fluid exchanged and it solved the issue a little bit but it hasn't gone away. It seems to rev up a little then shift real rough. I have read hundreds of threads that talk about the Valve body gasket blowing out on these trucks so I was wondering if this description matches that fix (The OD light does not flash when this happens).
I had to have the PCM replaced right after I bought it to get the emissions to pass (codes wouldn't set) and in the process cleaned all my ABS sensors, replaced my Speed sensor on the rear differential and replaced both rotors.Are there some home diagnostics I can do to narrow down my search for the problem? Also, on a different note, my father has an 03 with the 4.0L SOHC in it and it seems to get a heck of a lot more get up and go. I understand it is a larger better engine but what I am experiencing seems very sluggish for any V6. Could they be related? Might it just be a fuel filter?
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My 2.3L Ranger experiences a drawn out 2-3 shift but only does it once in a while. On my drive to work it might do it at 1 of 10 stop/go and the other times it's perfect. It really seams to do it more when it's cold???? I know it's an electronic shift trans so my guess is because it's intermittent it's getting a false signal from somewhere - maybe? All of the other shifts are fine, it just happens 2-3. It has the correct fluid in the trans and is new.
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he has a 2009 ford Ranger, 2.3L .with 54thou miles, the Issue is Vibration during in gear and stopped at a light no vibration at higher rpms during driveing, he states vibration happens in park ,neutral,reverse and drive. had the truck in for repair in two separete dealers they couldent find the problem its an automatic trans. he states from day 1 this truck has had the prob now its out of warrentee.dealer told him that trans to engine alignment was the prob dealer did some alignment and worked for a few weeks.
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My ranger started to squeak at low speeds a few months ago (when it was pretty cold) and still does it in the mornings when I first start driving it. It squeaks from around 2mph up to 25-30 and then it seems to go away (or I can't hear it anymore cause of other noises haha). It is from underneath the truck somewhere, and not related to clutch or brakes. It seems to do it in the mornings only (or when it's cold) and increases in frequency when your speed increases. Not engine related at all.
My first thought was U joints or the driveshaft rubbing, since the squeaking was directly related to how fast you were moving and clutch in/out and brakes didn't change the noise at all. I couldn't find anything rubbing on the driveshaft.
Changed the U-joints since they were kinda old, but this didn't fix the issue. Next I pulled the rear brakes and checked all the springs and such, nothing I could see was wrong. Greased up the shoe contact points and put it all back together.
It was still squeaking, so I checked the wheel bearings for play and spun them while each corner was jacked up, the bearings seemed fine and didn't make any noise when I spun each tire. I have transmission and rear differential fluid.
I've checked all of the stuff I can think of and am kind of at a loss as to the next step. I guess the things it could possibly be are transmission bearings (input/output, since those spin all the time right?), pinion bearings or rear end bearings, wheel bearings (even though i've checked them), or ??
I've driven a chevy with bad bearings in the rear end, and this doesn't sound like that. The chevy sounded like a dull roar at speed, and kinda droned a bunch. this is a very distinct squeaking sound, very similar to a squeaking bearing on the idler pulley or something like that.
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I have a 2001 Ranger XLT 4x4 with 38,000 miles. When I am at very low speeds (like 5 mph) and usually pulling into a parking spot, the ABS kicks on. I've heard it's the "hub" in my wheel but the dealer won't know which one to replace. Dealer said, take your hands off the wheel and see which way the truck pulls when the ABS is kicking on....well at 5 mph it doesn't pull. At $300 just for the part, I need to know which wheel it is!
Also a friend of mine had this happen to his Chevy Silverado and the replacement hub broke again so they just turned off the ABS....Is this OK to do if I don't want to fix this problem?
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I have a 2003 Ford Ranger, recently I had the heater core fail. One thing that happened during the heater core starting to leak is the "THEFT" light came on brighter than normal and no longer flashes when the truck is off. Also when the theft light started acting up the O/D OFF light came on and would not shut off. If I pushed the O/D off button the Theft light will go out and then come back on after the button is released.
After the heater core was replaced the lights stayed on as described above. Every once in a while the O/D off light would stay off but then come on later. No really problem besides the lights and O/D off button not working. Now today the O/D off light started flashing and the truck kept shifting in and out of O/D.
I'm leaning towards a speed sensor issue. I'm going to check and see if there is any codes tonight and will post my results. One other thing that happen with the heater core leaking is the "CHECK ENGINE" light came on because the O2 sensor was shorted out. Have the O2 sensor now and plan on replacing it while I trouble shoot the erratic shifting in and out of O/D.
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Brother in law has the above truck with shifting problem. On a cold start, pulling out of the driveway, it will get to about 3-4000 rpm and will slam into gear. Sometimes its worse than others, but is consistant. Once it warms up, the problem goes away for the most part.
I've researched a little online and have found a few people mention the 1-2 shift accumulator (servo...?) and was wondering if any of you have ran into this or have replaced one on the A4LD.
And if you have, which servo is the 1-2 shift? I think there are 6 of the little suckers in there. Anyway, all i've done so far is fluid and filter. Old fluid looked/smelled fine.
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I have a 2002 3.0 with the 5R44E. I don't like how late it shifts into 5th gear. Is there a way to make it shift into 5th at 45-50 instead of 55? I feel like I have to let off the gas half of the time to make it shift and I don't have a heavy foot. If anything, driving with a light foot seems to make it shift into 5th later.
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I just had a 97 Ford Ranger with a 3 speed overdrive transmission in my garage that we replaced the transmission because it was not shifting down into first gear, not even manually!. The new transmission is doing the exact same thing as the original.
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So went today and bought a 1993 ranger 4x4 ext cab 4.0! Runs good some bad handy work that i need to fix but truck has plenty of power and good handling...
issue 1- 4x4 not engaging. the light by the push buttons does not come on and you dont hear the "clicking" of the relay trying to engage. so whats the problem and how do i fix it?
issue 2- when clutch is fully depressed and you go to shift (this is only sometimes) you can feel and hear it grind just for a quick sec. and forget about down shifting you cant do that without slowing down. so maybe new clutch?
issue 3- at 65 the vehicle does shake a little otherwise but pretty smooth. any tips on how to smooth it out? maybe new ball joints? tighten some stuff up maybe?
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So here in Wisconsin for the last two weeks we have had nothing but ice. That being said, I have a '96 ranger 3.0L, automatic transmission, 4x4. 4 wheel is inoperable at the moment, that's a different story. Here's my question: with the ice, there has been a lot of tire spinning at high RPM's, the other day, I was again stuck on the ice and rocked back and forth had some pushers, thought we were getting somewhere but I went to shift gears and all of a sudden had nothing. No Reverse, Drive, OD, L, 2. Did I blow my tranny? There was no noise or grinding, but the OD light seems to blink. Is there something I can check or look at?
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I am having a problem with my O/D light flashing and my truck shifting hard. Just started out of the blue. After reading a few other topics, I am hoping it is the VSS. Now if only I could find the dang thing. Looking for a diagram, or detailed description on where it's at?
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My 2001 Ranger V6 with 160.000 miles runs like a Swiss watch. After warming up slightly it idles at the typical 750 RPM. I can pull out of the garage, park in the yard, shift from D or R into P and the idle holds at 750 RPM until I turn the engine off.
But, If I've driven to warm the engine to normal run temp and go through the same D or R and into P, the RPM drops to nearly Zero and sometimes the engine stops.
This has happened in the past so I take out the MAF, squirt it good with MAF cleaner, put it back in and everything is hunky-doory. But not this time. What am I missing??
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I have a 03 ranger with a v6/auto trans. it drives fine around town. after i get on the freeway the overdrive light will start flashing. when i get off the freeway it will shift extremely rough. if i turn the truck off and right back on it will be fine again. What could be the problem?
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"95, 2.3L, automatic. Stalls for a couple of seconds and nearly dies when shifting from drive to neutral or from drive to park. Doesn't do it when cold at high idle or when AC is on. It catches back up and idles fine but nearly dies when coming out of drive. Installed a new idle air control valve but no change.
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A while ago I had a '99 Ranger. Long bed, regular cab, 2wd, 5-speed, 2.3. I had really poor acceleration. I was used to Toyota pickups with the 2.4 22RE, and the Ranger was considerably slower to come to highway speeds.
So, I took it to two different dealers, and they told me "that's just the way they are." I guess I believed them and sold the truck. Now, I am kind of thinking about another Ranger. Do people here think the '99 2.3 has an acceleration problem? Are there certain years to avoid the I4 in a Ranger?
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I've got a 2003 Ranger 2.3L DOHC, 5 speed, 2WD. It has a check engine light with codes :
P0316-Engine Misfire Detected On Startup
P0704-Clutch Switch Input Circuit Fault
P2195-O2 Sensor Excess Lean Signal Bank 1-Sensor 1
P0171-System Too Lean (Bank 1)
The truck runs fine when coasting or accelerating but when holding a steady light throttle to maintain speed the truck starts bucking and jerking. It's doesn't feel like a misfire, more like a fuel cut out condition. When this happens and you come to a stop, you can smell that the exhaust is very rich coming out of the tailpipe. I've already replaced the upstream O2 sensor and I did a tune up about 15k ago. I'm thinking fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator. I doubt if this is related, but on start up (more so on a cold start up) the A/C compressor clutch kicks in and out 3-5 times and makes a terrible racket.
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I have had my 1998 Mazda B2500 truck since 2000 and this problem comes and goes (it's mostly been gone lately). Usually when it is cold outside. At slow speeds it creaks and squeaks - kinda embarrassing - if I am sitting still it squeaks when I turn the steering wheel. Once the speed picks up you can't hear it. I have noticed this in other fords about the same year.
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1999 ranger, 2.55 speed. truck idles with very high rpm's when driving and shifting gears. have changed the AIC, mass air sensor. Throttle position sensor and still does it. the AIC has been changed 5-6 times in 6-8 months as parts store kept telling me it was that. What can i look at, check, etc...
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My Ranger had been shifting hard for quite awhile. I recently opted to go ahead and replace the clutch, throwout bearing, had the flywheel turned and replaced the pressure plate.
This just seemed to make the problem slightly worse. I thought it was possible that my master cylinder needed to be replaced (the slave was replaced two years ago and didn't appear to be leaking when I had the tranny off). I replaced the master cylinder and now the clutch won't disengage at all. I've spent several days trying different things to bleed the clutch, and I just can't get it to bleed. I took it back off and bench bled it, then put it back on and bled through the whole system. This isn't working. I've tried numerous suggestions-jacking up the back end of the truck, jacking up the drivers side of the truck, I even bought a vaccuum bleeder and used it for 2 hours just having an assistant fill up the reservoir while I sucked fluid out the bleeder valve. The best I could ever get was some resistance on the pedal, but not enough to push the disc away from the flywheel.
I took the pickup to Ford, they said they bled it and charged me 90 bucks and still couldn't get the clutch to release
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