Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Rear Axle - Drive Shaft Not Fixed In Diff Perfectly Straight?
Jun 8, 2016
Today I took the bed off of my 99 ranger. I was sitting on the cab looking down at the rear axle noticed the drive shaft was not entering the rear diff perfectly straight. As I looked further into it, I noticed the distance between the rear spring on the passenger side tire, is noticeably different. To visualize it, the wheel, at the bumper side of the axle, has a shorter distance between it and the leafs than the cab side. Not massive, but a few inches, and it's noticeable now that I can stand over it. I'm beginning to be very annoyed by this truck and it's previous owners, whom I take it , scammed my brother quite well with a $5k tag for a truck with so much not right with it. It's about to become my yard art for awhile.
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I purchased a 1990 Ranger 4x4 with a v6 from auction. Took it to local shop to have them check it for me. Found out that it has a 3.0 in it and mechanic believes it is from a taurus. Truck actually runs extremely well. Has a few codes due to the ECM is for an automatic trans. Now the problem. I was on the highway-in 5th gear. Terrible noise the nothing. When I got it pulled over. The drive shaft was hanging from the rear end. It had been twisted like a straw. The transmission side had the yoke only, and the tail housing was cracked. It rolls and the drive shaft at the rear end turns. I figured the trans locked up. I don't know what trans to look for---is a 90 2.9 5 speed the same on a 3.0 ??
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I am driving a 95 ranger xlt extended cab with a 3.0 two wheel drive with an automatic transmission. the two piece drive shaft with the carrier bearing went bad at the bearing. i separate the u-joint just after the bearing and was going to remove the nut holding the bearing housing together but cannot get the nut off. now i'm also finding out that i need a bearing puller to remove the damaged bearing from the 1st drive shaft.
Its turning into something i may not be able to finish. i saw on line an idea where a guy replaced the 2 piece shaft with a one piece. he states that a 1 piece drive shaft, 1998 or newer would work and no need for this bearing. you have to remove the cross member. it sound easier than what i'm trying to do. i looked at some old posts and galleries but did not see an article. here is a link to his website: How-To: Swapping a 2-Piece Drive Shaft for a 1-Piece in a 1983-1997 Ford Ranger
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I just bought a 5speed manual 2004 ford ranger 4x4 and when shifting usually upshiffter 1-2-3 I get a mi8ld clunk when I looked underneath I grabbed and can move the from drive shaft clockwise about 1/4 inch is this normal and if not how do I fix this?
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I recently had my rear axle seals replaced due to leaking. Does the rear diff fluid get replaced on that repair since the rear diff cover comes off? Trying to figure out when my next interval for changing rear diff fluid should be.
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The rear axle in my dads 1998 ford ranger has been vibrating for quite a while so I pulled the cover today and found that the fluid was full of metal shavings, it was glittering. I also found this metal chunk in the differential so my mechanical experience tells me this is not a good thing. I am taking it apart tomorrow any tips or do's or don't? Also, what this metal chunk is and what that knurled up end is??
Door tag told me it was a 7.5 open 4:10 axle.
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Really noisy rear with leaking axle seals. Looking to swap in a "yard" unit. Mine has 10" shoes. The door sticker says it's a code 86 rear. If I look for a ranger with a code 86, will everything be the same?
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2004 Ranger Edge 2wd 3.0L. When the truck has been sitting for a while and i start moving forward there is a very loud sound of metal on metal. Changed the diff fluid last week, used royal purple 75-140 with the friction additive. No change, tried to take rear wheels off, but the drums are stuck by the pads. I was able to get the drums off only bout an inch.
Recently, I've noticed that on hard acceleration the RPM go up but it seems sluggish on acceleration. There is also a vibration that comes from the rear and goes away when i remove my foot from the accelerator. The squeal happens between 15 and 20 mph, but goes away fairly quickly. The vibration happens around 40 or so. I am thinking rear axle bearings? But i cant get my drums off to replace the bearings.
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What the exact part number is for the seal for the rear axle in a 2003 F150 4x4 ?? Mine decided to leak yesterday and so I looked up Ford for the part but there's two .. one is thick and one is not. I don't want to take the seal out first to look because I got no other vehicle to get it and putting it back in and out would be silly.
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I am a new 6.7 owner and had/ have a 7.3 As I have been getting to know the truck I have been under it and noticed that the front drive shaft and axle are locked in. My hubs are switched to auto but I know on my 2000 7.3 when my hubs are on auto my front axle and driveshaft are disengaged... I'm wondering if the new 4x4 system is different. I know that can save on MPG
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I currently have the rear axle shafts off the truck. I took off, cleaned then put on the rear diff cover.
I live in an area that does nothing but form rust anywhere and everywhere in very little time.
I don't want rust forming in the rear diff gears - can I fill the rear diff up ? Or will it leak out of the rear shaft holes ? Can I fill it up halfway then ?
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I too had this problem and tried different gas, gas additives, meticulously inspecting the cooling system to make sure overheating was impossible, found the jumper that allows me to back off timing 2 degrees, checked the computer for error codes, and cleaning the MAF sensor. Nothing really worked.
The solution is to decarbon the engine. It is all described in TSB 01-19-7, dated OCT 01. I did this and END of the problem. Pay attention to the part about not ingesting the PM-3 cleaner too fast to make sure you don't liquid lock your engine. The only important step they forgot was that you will need to replace spark plugs when you're done. You may also want to lay some newspaper under your tailpipe too, as the crud is gonna flow.
The TSB notes that the driver should have "periods of daily operation over 3500RPM to break carbon from cyl heads". They also note that you should NOT use mid-grade or super duper unleaded, as these increase the probability of carbon buildup.
This repair will cost about $30 if you do it yourself; if you can change a flat tire you can do this.
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My 2000 Ranger has been leaking fluid around the front Diff cover so I decided to pull the cover and reseal it. It was obvious that this was going to be a tight job but I didn't anticipate running into a bolt that can't be removed because interference from the front cross member.
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I have a 2012 f150 supercrew with the eco boost. While driving down the highway my rear tire passed me. After crashing I looked at the rear end and the wheel and hub had broken off of axle. Scared the crap out of me. Would this be a warranty issue?
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I have noticed a few drips coming from the rear axle input shaft where the drive shaft connects. It has only done it once and there is no residue on the trailer hitch so I know it didn't dump everything on the road. If change this seal, how difficult is it and do you have any information which might make it easier.
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I had a friend do an alignment on my truck yesterday. Afterward, we tried to center the wheel the best we could in the shop. But when I drove it home I noticed that when going straight, the steering wheel is ever-so-slightly turned to the right. Is there and easy way to adjust this without me going back to the guys' shop and bugging him again? I know the alignment is dead nuts, but the wheel is just a tad off.
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I had the universal joints replaced on my 1999 Ford Ranger now it vibrates badly starting at 45 mph and when I coast at 65 mph the vibration is very significant. The mechanic does not know what is causing this. I never had this problem before changing the U-Joints and I have 171,000 miles on the truck.
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I have a 2000 Ranger, V6 4L, and I believe my head gasket is blown, my radiator fluid goes straight to the oil pan. It has probably been leaking for a while, I did not realize it was leaking internally, I had been adding coolant for a few months but thought it was my radiator leaking because it had a crack in the housing, so I had that changed, but then a few weeks after that It gave out. I drained, and flushed the engine twice, and just parked it. My question is, should I just have the head gasket changed, or does it need a new engine because it had been leaking for a while and not sure what kind of damage it has done internally.
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I replaced the seal the other day on my ranger because I noticed my fluid disappearing. Went ahead and changed the filter and fluid as well. Flushed the system, and I go back to my truck tonight and there's a huge puddle of trans fluid. And the output shaft seal is once again, up against the drive shaft. I've spent like $150 on trans fluid since Friday, and $1000+ to get the truck running again last month, so pardon me if I get edgy about her.
99 2.5 auto. I changed the trans pan gasket too. No leaks from it.
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In 4 x4 ( 2000 ford ranger 4.0 ) and drive for a while I can smell gear oil burning off the exhaust looks like it's coming out of the right cv shaft? Is there a seal that goes first That's bad?
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My wife has been complaining about a noise from her 2005 expo.
As she drove the truck today I have narrowed the noise down to the right side of the half shaft. From looking underneath and comparing what I was seeing and hearing, the track bar is not centered. Its more in on the driver side and out on the passenger side. I had her to stand on the running board and shake the truck.
I can definitely hear a kinda cluck? It sounds like the half shaft going to the tire but at the same time the bushing on the outer tire rod end. I can't determine what it is exactly.
when you rock the truck you can definitely hear it. Its not like violent loud but i'd like to get it taken care of. I looked for some grease points but I don't see none..
2nd question for the grease points that I do see how much do I grease it? how many strokes?
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