I have a 01 f250 v10 4x4 ... My stock hubs squeak non stop when they are engaged. I want to get a set of warns.
I am going down to napa tomorrow, looking for a detailed link, or instructions of how to install these things? i have searched but just keep coming up with people raving about how great warn hubs are!
Do I need any special tools, do I need to grease the new ones before installing?
OK I am pretty sure my warn locking hub is shot. I put it in the lock position and I can still turn my u joint by hand. I got the cap off and the otter metal ring out. There was No inner snap ring to take out. So now it should Just come out right?
View 5 Replies2001 F-250 7.3. The auto lock hubs are not working on the truck lock hubs in and all works fine. First thought is the vacuum system has a leak or something of the sort. Had truck at the shop they are telling me the GEM module controls the vacuum to engage the auto hubs and the signal is not coming from the GEM and it need to be replaced. It was the GEM causing the problem.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2001 F250 4x4 and the ESOF switch not engaging hubs, currently I have no 4x4 lights coming on in the cluster when i turn the switch. I am not experiencing any of the vaccum symptoms that most people are suggesting. I When I turn the switch i also do not hear any relays clicking. Relays have been tested, and i waited for the 45 second transfer delay that the manual mentions. ESOF switch has power, and is working properly (I know because I bought a new one in attempt to fix the problem) Basically I have no responses from any of my 4x4 indicators or parts.
View 14 RepliesI'm looking to install an aftermarket exhaust system (cat-back system) on my '01 F-250/6.8L/V10. I'm looking for recommendations....Ideally, I'd love to find a system where I don't have to remove the spare tire, and still have a dual exhaust where the tailpipes exit on the side (aft of the rear tires).
View 3 RepliesThe left Warn Premium hub has started rotating out of the Free setting, this seems to happen at or near highway speeds. A tell tale sound is then produced, I assume from the splines contacting. It does not rotate all the way to lock. There seems to be less resistance on this side now than the other when locking. Hubs have been installed for 3.5 years, problem started a few days ago, haven't been locked in a couple months.
We've had torrential rains for the past week with no end in sight due to the tropical storm bearing down on us so I figured I'd ask here first before pulling the hub in the rain (no garage).
I bought a 2001 Excursion Ltd 4 years ago. A previous owner put Warn Premium hubs on it, which I would have eventually done myself.
I got stuck a couple of weeks ago and tried to use my 4wd. Nothing.
A friend suggested I replace the Transfer Case Motor as it can go out if you don't use it. I got that done today but I still don't have 4wd.
I can hear the transfer case shift and see the drive shaft spinning, but the front tires don't spin.
I thought it was the PVH solenoid, but discovered the Warn locking hubs don't use the vacuum and it has been disconnected/plugged.
How hard is it to install heated towing mirrors on an 01 f-250 7.3L?
View 3 RepliesI have an isspro sensor that I need to install on my 4r100. I have it all installed except for the actual sending unit. My question is where is the best place to put it?
I've watched multiple YouTube videos and it seems a lot of people use the test port on the driver side above the linkage. I found out the hard way that it is a very poor choice of location. A lot of people say that the best way is to drop the pan drill a hole and weld in the bung? I was wondering would it be possible to put it on the "out" line on the transmission oil headed to the cooler? 01 f-350 7.3
Its a 2016 F-250, 6.2L gas truck with the electronic shift on the fly transfer case.
I have put right at 22,000 miles on it like this, frequently at 70-80 mph.
What are the odds I have damaged it and is there anything I should do now that I discovered it - other than put them both in "AUTO".
Truck has been to the dealer twice and not once was this noticed. They blamed the squealing on the brakes which I knew it wasn't.
Back in March while still plowing, my auto locking hubs wouldn't stay engaged. After talking to the local Ford service shop they told me that it was moisture in the vaccum lines and that it had frozen. They told me to manually lock the hubs and bring it in to be repaired when I had time. I made a appointment in the middle of May and finally got it in last week. Now the hubs are seized in the locked position and they will not warranty the work or parts because they say it was caused by the salt from our roads. Does this sound right?
View 5 RepliesI've read many posts about ESOF and fault vacuum lines and how that will prevent 4x4 from engaging. I experienced a different problem this past weekend. Here's the situation...
Was about 1.5hr drive up to the mountains. Outside temp when we left the house: 10F. Outside temp when we arrived at destination: 9F. Quite a bit of road grime on the way up from sand, slush, and that magnesium chloride (or whatever they hell they put on the roads in an attempt to keep it from freezing). 4x4 worked fine on the way up. 4x4 light on dash was on, and I KNOW I could not have climbed the snow-covered forest roads without being in 4x4. Also, I could hear and feel the front hubs turning.
On the way home, once I got to where the roads were sufficiently ice free, I turned the dial on the dash back to 2WD. 4x4 light goes out. But I can hear and feel the front hubs are still turning. Toggled the switch back and forth a few times. 4x4 light would come and go with the toggled switch. But the hubs didn't disengage.
When I got back into town (outside temp now about 5), we stopped at a red light and I toggled the switch again. This time, the hubs disengaged. Is this a sign of bad vacuum? Or more an indication of faulty hubs??
My hubs will not lock when put into 4x4. I disconnected all lines from the solenoid to both hubs and tested them for leaks... All good there. I put a gauge on the lines at both hubs one at a time while the other is still connected and get no reading when switched into 4x4. I checked for vacuum right out of the solenoid, and I get 2inHg when switched into 4x.
The vacuum pump kicks on every time I start the truck, even if I just shut it off and re-start right away. There is no delay when switching my ac/heater controls to different settings or vent locations. So I know there is vacuum. How much vacuum I should be getting out of the solenoid to the hubs?
2004 F350 6.0L....
I just got a 99 F250 PSD, it had not been in 4wd in a while, now the hubs won't unlock.
My 01 F250 seemed to have strictly manual hubs. Turn right to lock, left to unlock. They may have been aftermarket, but on by the PO. Do I need to put some new Warns on the 99? Or can I lube then up and get them functional.
I just ordered '00 F250 SC 4x4 SWB XLT with the factory standard manual hubs. The hubs show up on the vehicle order confirmation as code "21M MAN LOCKING HUB". I can't find this code in the ordering guides anywhere but kbb.com shows this code as "Manual hubs delete. Required with 213 shift-on-the-fly". I want the manual hubs. I think ##### is incorrect. For my piece of mind, could someone who has also ordered the factory standard manual hubs verify that the code is indeed 21M. And for those who ordered shift-on-the-fly, could you verify that 21M does NOT show up on your order confirmation...
View 8 Repliesinside round thing with 4 notches in it is a smaller diameter than the new hubs. Will theystill work?
View 6 RepliesI am considering buying a 2001 Ford F250 Super Duty XLT 4x4 V10 engine tomorrow. I am hesitant because I cant get the 4x4 to engage. It goes into 4x4 low and high and the front driveshaft spins but it wont engage the wheels. One side locking hub locks but the other side the locking hub is cracked off and so I there is no way to turn to lock that side. I will of course replace the Locking Hub ASAP if I buy the rig but my question here is, if one side is locked should one side of the front axle spin, meaning if only one side Locking Hub is locked should that wheel turn and the other not? Both are not turning but as I said the driveshaft is spinning.
I don't know if both sides need to be locked in order for the front wheels to engage while in 4x4 high or low. Or if one side should engage if only one side is locked; the wheel that's locked of course..
2001 Ford F250 XLT Super Duty 4x4
V10 engine...
So after eight years my Warn premium hubs have taken a crap and developed major play internally. After speaking to Warn warrenty department and sending videos they will replace them according to the lifetime limited warranty. Problem is they sill not send out new ones until they receive the old ones, so I was told from time i remove mine and send them back and get the new ones it will be two weeks maybe a few days more, there is no snow in the extended forcast and im wondering what damage could occur with me funning the truck everday to work etc with the stub shafts just hanging there?
View 14 Replies2006, ESOF. Noticed the front hubs aren't engaging but the transfer case is. What should I check?
View 3 RepliesI just purchased an F-350 with manual locking hubs. I am unsure if I can keep these locked in for part time four wheel driving or I need to unlock them each time I go back to two wheel drive?
View 6 RepliesWell long story short, I had the the factory hubs in my 04 f-350 and I was driving down the road and it started making this horrible popping noise. So I pulled over and couldn't find anything and just curiosity locked in the hubs and all was fine. Made me think my hubs were bad, so I went and bought the warren premium hubs, installed them. Went for a drive and still the same noise is there when they are in free spin. But once they are locked in its fine. What this could be? Wheel bearings?
View 4 Replies