2002 f-350 diesel 4x4 7.3l. It stalls out a few times lately( and starts right back up) and it runs rough like there is an air bubble then smooths out. Changed 1 fuel filter and the pcv valve. 96,000 miles.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2002 f350 5.4l that has stalling issues, first some back round. Last week I pulled up the a stop light and the truck stalled I figured it was a iced fuel line as it was very cold so I put a bottle of drygas in the tank. Evidently there was a lot of moister in there because as soon as I started the truck check engine light came on and truck would not idle at all. I got through that tank and am now on my second tank. It is better but the truck will still stall when stopped at light (has never stalled in park or on the road only while stopped in drive) the check engine also light went off halfway through the first tank. What next?
View 9 RepliesI have a 2002 F350 with a V10, this just started happening where at times the truck will turn over but won't run... after a few times of trying to start it I pull the key out let it sit for 5 seconds then put the key back in and runs perfect..... now at the gas station the other day it started but ran like it was on 4 cylinders... I turned it off and restarted it and runs perfect. Heading to Kansas next week to pick up my boat and don't need problems....
View 4 RepliesAlright, I have a 2002 f350 7.3 4x4 ext cab xlt with 300k miles. Bought in may 2016 with 260k miles and towards November started running rough and felt like a loss of power. Had a no start but a new gray cps fixed that issue. Running fine. About a week later started it up and it had a rough idle, felt like not all cylinders/injectors were working. Was "knocking" and a loss of power. I was in the army at the time and stationed in Georgia, took it to a local diesel shop in Georgia and they confirmed my icp sensor was bad and injector #1 , #5 #7 were bad. Work was busy and money was scarce so I left it as it is and was saving up to buy the new parts. Then one day approx a week after the visit to the shop, I started the truck up and it ran fine. No misfire no knock no rough idle, drove fine for about a month.
In December, I was on vacation in florida to see my parents, drove the truck down, ran fine. While on vacation one day in a Walmart parking lot the truck didn't start up. Couldn't fix any issues then so towed the truck to my parents house. Did more troubleshoot, replaced fuel filter, cps, ipr valve, icp sensor, glow plugs, glow plug relay, ebpv pedestal was replaced with a ebpv delete pedestal. All parts bought oem and/or from riffraff diesel. Still would not start up. So then I bought a refurbished IDM from eBay, oem and then the truck finally started up one day but running rough again like it used to, then it wouldn't start again. So then, I replaced the PCM with a reflashed/refurbished one off eBay and boom truck started up, still running rough but now it starts up every time.
Now, took all eight injectors out and replaced all the o rings. Cleaned them up and put them back in, truck still running rough. Injectors didn't appear damaged nor the wiring harness so now I bought three reman injectors from riffraff. And replaced those three bad injectors. One of them is not spitting oil out the oil spout on the injector.
My dad has worked on freightliner semi trucks for years and is fairly knowledgeable when it comes to diesels. However he did something very amateurish the other day. So two injectors were installed while we were still waiting on the third in the mail. He wanted to see how the engine reacts when that one bad injector was not in play, but instead of unplugging the injector under the valve cover, he cut the wire outside the valve cover to the injector. He stated it's not a big deal and he can solder the wires back together. But once he cut the wire, the truck sounded a lot stronger, still rough idle but definitely stronger. Before, you would be pedal to the floor and the truck barely moves forward but now the truck will lunge forward. A big difference in power.
Now today, third injector came, swapped them out and fired up truck. We didn't solder the wire yet just quick connect, same you would use to connect wires for a car stereo. The new injector was not spitting oil out the oil spout. Even at high rev and truck warmed up. Truck still runs better with that one injector unplugged.
Tomorrow we will troubleshoot if somehow there's wires that grounding out or burnt out somewhere but as of right now everything seems to be in order, the uvch are tight, and no signs of anything burnt.
Triple checked everything, still getting fuel pressure, still getting oil pressure what gives? I also replaced the MAP sensor. Fuel pump is fine, fuel gets to fuel bowl. The next thing I'm thinking is maybe the hpop but we have oil pressure so idk..
My truck started running poorly with an intermittent miss about 6000 miles ago. The miss gets more consistent when the tank is below 1/2. Fill it up and the miss goes away. No codes, shop that does a lot of V10 camper work could not figure it out.
My guess is that the fuel pump is going out and it overheats when the tank is low. The problem is getting progressively worse. Now it misses slightly with 3/4 tank and even a full tank sometimes.
Plugs have been changed, fuel filter has been changed, and the shop found 3 COPs that were bad before all this new intermittent miss started. The truck runs ok at wide open throttle.
Am I just nursing a bad fuel pump that will leave me standed soon? Truck has 170,000 mile with original fuel pump.
2003 F350 6.0L ... 171,000 miles ... 5,100 since oil change 15W-30 at the shop ...
I was driving on the interstate (50 miles of driving) struggling to maintain 70-75 mph at 2,200RPMs. I would accelerate and RPMs would go up to 3,000 but no speed. Before I could pull off speed slowed to 50 before dying. Sat on the side of the road 30 minutes before I could get it started. Had to give it gas. No misfires just quietly started. Couldn't go over 30 mph. Towed it to my destination 135 miles.
Volts on 7Pin FICM read fine.
Checked the fuel fulters. Air Filter. Tank for debris. Nothing.
My coolant reservoir was lose and I noticed a lot of coolant in the driverside front wheel well and down the left side of the undertruck. Reattached after checking FICM. Hope that was all it was cause I couldn't find any leaks.
I had Planned to have the oil changed before the return trip before this all happened. New to Diesel engines but I like a challenge. Where do I go next?
I just brought home an 04 F350. It is a V10, 6 speed, with 30,600 verified miles on it. It runs and drives fantastic, and that V10 is impressive! I am very impressed. I have noticed that the compressor cycles, even with the dial in the off position. Is this normal for the super duty, or is something amiss? If something is wrong, what direction do I look in?
View 13 RepliesHere's what I have 2000 F350 XLT 105000 miles and a 4R100 tranny, was coming home from work no issues, stopped at my mailbox to retrieve mail.
when applying brake, it lunged forward a bit and stalled, I started back up put in drive, stalled again. started back up put in reverse, no issues.
I put in neutral revved it somewhat and it moved forward enough to start the roll down the small slope at my drive, I then started in neutral again as was rolling and then put into drive and drove 1/2 mile down my lane to house. backed up in my parking spot, no problems then shifted to drive and stalled.
Today I dropped the pan and checked the filter as I have read that sometimes they will fall out and cause same symptoms, filter was where it was supposed to be, no easy cure here.
We have an F350 at work with a 7.3, I believe it is a 2000. The truck is secondhand to us, although we have had it for a number of years at this point. It has a banks powerpak and transcommand system installed by the previous owner (I got the paperwork from my boss but I haven't sorted through it yet to tell you anymore than that), as well as a pac break exhaust break and a transflow auxillary fuel system.
These were also installed by the previous owner. We do not use the exhaust break due to it getting stuck on/closed (probably an easy fix...it used to work properly we just haven't had a chance to look at it) and the fuel tank was removed when we put a different box on the truck, and was not reinstalled. I can't say whether or not it was removed properly, or whether shortcuts were taken.
The issue:
About a year ago, the truck stalled without warning. No coughing or hiccuping, just suddenly the motor stopped. It restarted instantly, and off we went. This happened again occasionally, but not frequently. Over the last month or so this started happening much more regularly, and we also experienced sudden losses in power for several seconds where the engine seems to return to idle, but does not stall.
We haven't been able to determine any pattern to these issues to try and narrow down the cause.
The heater blower in my 1999 F350 continues to run after the switch is turned off. I checked the relay and it is working properly. Looking for a wiring diagram showing the control circuit for the blower?
Do the heater switch controls power to the relay coil or if the switch grounds the coil to pick up the relay?
2004 F250 V10, runs good until it warms up whether it's hot or cold outside. While on freeway, it really shakes while cruising, but of you get in the gas enough for a kick down, seems to be pretty smooth. I've changed the coils, and 9 plugs (one wouldn't budge, but the others I took out looked fine) to no effect. Where else should I look? Also, no CEL, and no codes, which seems odd as bad as it feels...
View 11 RepliesSo, my truck runs really rough when I am @1500 RPM and lightly feather the gas. I have replaced all coils and plugs. Used dielectric grease. Replaced air filter, replaced ICU, changed transmission fluid. The thing still "shudders" ... 2004 f250 5.4 ....
View 14 RepliesHave a 2006 F350 5.4l that is mainly used as a plow truck. I drive it at least once a week when not plowing just to make sure it runs ok, etc. Only put on about 2,500 miles per year. Keep it in good repair - not by me, but by the dealer or mechanics.
Problem - last two times I started it, it started ok but runs real rough for about ten seconds. Sounds like the engine is going to die. After about ten seconds, it "catches" and runs normal. Have no problems when driving it. If I restart it, it doesn't do this, so it seems to only happen when the engine is cold.
Battery was brand new back in Sept. All plugs were replaced maybe 3 years ago, as was the cat converter and muffler. Run non-ethanol fuel. What might be causing it before I bring it in.
I just bought this 99 f250 7.3 Powerstroke last week.. drove it all week fine, I car pool with a family member to work and asked his girlfriend to plug my truck in for me, well she didn't and it had stalled on the way home one morning but started up after cranking a few times i thought nothing of it. Drove it a little bit that day and it was fine, while I let it idle in my drive way as I prepared to go work it started running really rough then died. It took a long time to start again..now it's happening all the time. I changed the fuel filter and someones telling me there's air in the lines..
View 5 RepliesGetting these lean codes P1131, P1151, P0171, P0174. I was getting a knock sensor code before but not now. It will not idle it just dies and runs rough till I get at higher rpms gotta feather the brake and gas to go anywhere.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2001 7.3 ford the seal in the turbo went and oil went in the exhaust. lots of oil like 10 quarts. I had a rebuilt turbo installed ran great for 2 weeks then one day out of the blue started idling rough and then downward from there no power stalling etc I have my super chip scanner it read dtcs of 1249 478 1211 and 238. Is it possible the muffler is plugged with oil? or is it and ipr? 193000 miles....
View 3 RepliesHere is this wonderful 5.4 's issue now, sometimes it will idle rough, sometimes it wont. sometimes it feels like it wants to stall, other times not. if im driving about 30mph up a hill around 1700 rpm, the engine feels like a bucking horse, it will kinda want to produce the power, but cant seem to find it till the trans drops to a lower gear. With this engine power loss is unacceptable because it came out of the factory with no power, i cant afford to loose more.
there is no check engine light. its been doing this on and off for a week. i dont drive it much, may 15 miles a day. i thought maybe it was bad gas , i had it sitting for a month, but since then ran almost 2 tanks of gas through it. Seems to act the worst when driving it, then letting it idle for 5 mins, then drive it again, that's when its very noticeable. no smoke from exhaust, no mixing of oil and anti freeze, plugs are a year old, filter is new.
The 2003 F250 5.4 Superduty has no power and keeps stalling. If I floor the gas it just stalls. I've replaced the pcv valve and line, the fuel pump relay, the fuel pump, and cleaned the tank, changed out the gas, added Lucas, and it just won't run right. Desperate, and no codes are coming up...
View 5 RepliesI have a 03 250 5.4 with 160k. I just recently replaced #4&3 coil packs. Truck was running great again. Then a few days later the truck was running extremely rough and white smoke from the exhaust. I noticed the pcv valve was not all the way in(pretty much out) put it back in and ran fine for two days now running rough every now and then and the pcv valve is making a vibrating noise but stops if I pinch it slightly. I did replace the plugs a year ago.
View 14 RepliesLet me start with I have a 2003 f250 5.4. The motor blew on my truck and I had a 100k motor dropped in it. I've put new spark plugs, ohmd out the coils. I tried both sets of injectors. cat delete and new fuel pump. It has rough idle and stalls but runs fine at higher rpms. Also has basically no brakes. I am thinking vacuum but I've check all the lines. No codes either!! also cleaned throttle body.
View 4 RepliesMy 2002 7.3 will go dead when driving then not start up until after it has sat for a good hour. Then only run for about 10 minutes before dying again. The truck will stay running if left in park idling. It only stalls when it is driving.
I replaced the Camshaft Position Sensor and Alternator with Genuine Motorcraft parts. My next assumption is the ICP Sensor? Maybe. I do have a kill switch on the truck that I thought might be loose--but I'm not sure.