Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2000 F350 XLT Stalling In Drive
Mar 2, 2013
Here's what I have 2000 F350 XLT 105000 miles and a 4R100 tranny, was coming home from work no issues, stopped at my mailbox to retrieve mail.
when applying brake, it lunged forward a bit and stalled, I started back up put in drive, stalled again. started back up put in reverse, no issues.
I put in neutral revved it somewhat and it moved forward enough to start the roll down the small slope at my drive, I then started in neutral again as was rolling and then put into drive and drove 1/2 mile down my lane to house. backed up in my parking spot, no problems then shifted to drive and stalled.
Today I dropped the pan and checked the filter as I have read that sometimes they will fall out and cause same symptoms, filter was where it was supposed to be, no easy cure here.
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I'm getting a really choppy low RPM drive. If I'm above 2-2.5k rpm it runs okay but as soon as it drops under 2.5k it starts to run very choppy and loses power and Boggs in and out of power regardless of how much throttle input I give it. I had a tune up done last year and a recent oil change...
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I want to install a new front drive shaft in my 2000 F350. I have the new one, and it has a big nut and it is threaded for length adjustment. My old one has a rubber boot which is missing from the new one. I plan on using red locktite but I do not know the torque specs on the front universal caps. Should I take it to my mechanic? I've never owned a 4x4 before.
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We have an F350 at work with a 7.3, I believe it is a 2000. The truck is secondhand to us, although we have had it for a number of years at this point. It has a banks powerpak and transcommand system installed by the previous owner (I got the paperwork from my boss but I haven't sorted through it yet to tell you anymore than that), as well as a pac break exhaust break and a transflow auxillary fuel system.
These were also installed by the previous owner. We do not use the exhaust break due to it getting stuck on/closed (probably an easy fix...it used to work properly we just haven't had a chance to look at it) and the fuel tank was removed when we put a different box on the truck, and was not reinstalled. I can't say whether or not it was removed properly, or whether shortcuts were taken.
The issue:
About a year ago, the truck stalled without warning. No coughing or hiccuping, just suddenly the motor stopped. It restarted instantly, and off we went. This happened again occasionally, but not frequently. Over the last month or so this started happening much more regularly, and we also experienced sudden losses in power for several seconds where the engine seems to return to idle, but does not stall.
We haven't been able to determine any pattern to these issues to try and narrow down the cause.
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My 2002 7.3 will go dead when driving then not start up until after it has sat for a good hour. Then only run for about 10 minutes before dying again. The truck will stay running if left in park idling. It only stalls when it is driving.
I replaced the Camshaft Position Sensor and Alternator with Genuine Motorcraft parts. My next assumption is the ICP Sensor? Maybe. I do have a kill switch on the truck that I thought might be loose--but I'm not sure.
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2002 f-350 diesel 4x4 7.3l. It stalls out a few times lately( and starts right back up) and it runs rough like there is an air bubble then smooths out. Changed 1 fuel filter and the pcv valve. 96,000 miles.
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I have a 2001 F350 7.3 4WD that does not want to shift into drive. When you shift to drive you can feel a slight difference in the trans but it will not move, it will rev freely but not move. If I shift it up and down it will engage after a lag period ranging from 10-15 seconds up to several minutes. Reverse is ok and after forward engages it appears to work as it should, shifts ok through the gears. I don't have much experience working on automatics.
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I have a 2002 f350 5.4l that has stalling issues, first some back round. Last week I pulled up the a stop light and the truck stalled I figured it was a iced fuel line as it was very cold so I put a bottle of drygas in the tank. Evidently there was a lot of moister in there because as soon as I started the truck check engine light came on and truck would not idle at all. I got through that tank and am now on my second tank. It is better but the truck will still stall when stopped at light (has never stalled in park or on the road only while stopped in drive) the check engine also light went off halfway through the first tank. What next?
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So loving my new to me truck. Only has 140K on it. But one thing that bugs me is that with the doors closed tight, when I drive over bumps, they sound like they are not closed. Makes you feel like they will fly open. But when checked they are closed all the way. Is there an adjustment or something that can correct this?
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Have a 2001 f350 that runs great until you hook a trailer to it. Once a trailer is hooked to it and you are on a slight incline (and I mean slight) it will not go into D.. It's like it gets stuck in N.. Have to jam it into 1 to get it to go.. Once level again it will go back to D... Truck has 177k miles on it.
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My F350 4x4 won't go into 4 wheel drive unless I get out and take them out of auto and put them in locked position and when I have it in lock mode it seams to work like it's in auto mode, when I put the switch on the dash in 2wd, it seams like it's only driving the back wheels....
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I have a 2004 F350 Crew Cab DRW 4WD 6.0L.
The front drive shaft is making a high pitched metallic squeal while the truck is in motion. I thought it might be the universal joints but after lubricating the joints, I can still hear the squeal and it sounds like it is coming from inside the drive shaft. I also hear this squeal when I spin the drive shaft by hand.
I have quite a few questions about these drive shafts:
- What would cause a squeal from within the drive shaft?
- Are there any replaceable parts or do I have to get a new drive shaft?
- How do I identify the correct drive shaft part for my truck? Seems like there are a LOT of different models on the web.
- Are any of the aftermarket drive shafts any good? Any to avoid?
- Is this a DIY job or will I need to take it in to the shop?
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One of our trucks, 2004 F350 Powerstroke, my company truck, recently the last snow even we had, my tow haul mode would pop on and off almost evertime I shifted from drive to reverse while plowing. I didn't want it on, it just kept poping on and off. Thought maybe the button was stuck, but it moved like normal. My other thought was there is a loose connection in the shifter or column causing it to go on and off.
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Have an f350 4x4 diesel that when I drive slow and especially turn to the right it makes a grinding noise. It seems to either go away or just gets muffled by road noise when cruising. The ball joints were bad so I replaced them and I figured with this especially when I turn right it had to be a wheel bearing so I replaced both of them and still same thing. Don't want to throw money at it hoping to fix the issue. Also front duff is full of oil.
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This must have been asked before but I couldn't find any thread about it. Have a 2006 F350 that makes a rattling sound when engaged in front wheel drive. Sounds a bit like a loose ball from a ball bearing (or a small stone) rolling around. What might be causing this?
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I just picked up a 2005 SC LB 4x4 5.4 v8 6mt F-350 yesterday and drove it about 250 miles home. It is my first Super Duty, and I love it so far but... the steering has some issues. There seems to be decent amount of play in the steering wheel when I'm driving straight. Also, the truck drives straight when the steering wheel is turned about 30 degrees to the left, and I would like to fix that and bring it to center. When I was cruising on the highway (65-70 mph), there was also two 20 minute periods of time spaced an hour apart where the steering would get light and the truck would dart to the left (i do not think road conditions were a factor as it did not happen on the worst stretches of highway. The truck has 133,000 miles on it, and has had pretty routines maintenance done on it, as it was owned by a drilling business as a work truck to haul tools. The guy I bought it from said that it needed the steering shock/damper replaced, so I will do that, but what else to you think I need to do to the truck?
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I have a 2000 f350. When idling uo can't really hear the miss. Driving at about 40-50 mph it will shack and shutter real bad. Hooked up spanner and had miss fire codes for cyl. 1,4,9. Changed out all 10 plugs, and boots. Also changed out the coil on all three cyl also. Still have the miss and shutter. Also changed out #9 injector ...
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I've got a 2000 F350 crew cab with a camper I bought in Chile and I'm going to be driving it from the tip of south america back to the US. It's a 9 month epic family road trip. It'll involve crossing the Andes several times and going over 15,000 ft. There are roads up to 19,500 ft in various places.
My question is am I going to have problems with the altitude? What can i do about it? I've got another truck which is a unimog, it's slow as hell but has a special kind of booster gas you can inject in to the engine to get it started in very cold weather and at high altitude. I chose the F350 for the truck instead of the unimog because a unimog is slow as hell (think 40mph max speed), but it handles extreme conditions well.
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I have a 2000 f350 xlt and it has been very good until now. I can be driving normal and stop and park, when I get in and try and start it , it acts like the neutral safety switch is not working. the key turns and all my dash lights work, radio works, everything but the starter. I have to put it into neutral to get it to start. then after I stop again, it works fine. I don't get the problem all the time and I can't find a neutral safety switch.
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I have a 2000 F350 cab and chassis 4X4 with V10 and a 5 speed manual (actually it's a 4 speed with overdrive). My problem is the engine seems to have a miss in it. When I first start it in the morning it usually runs good for 5+ miles till it warms up then if I am not pulling a load I can hear what sounds like a miss but the truck accelerates fine. If I am pulling a load I can also feel a slight steady consistent shudder and I can tell the truck doesn't have the power it should and the gas mileage SUCKS worse than it use to.
I ran a bottle of Lucas deep clean through a tank of fuel and that seemed to work a little but I will still encounter the problem sometime during the day. When the miss seems to be gone I can hear a very slight pinging noise when I accelerate or pull a hill with and/or with out a load. The pinging noise I hear sounds like an engine with a distributor that is getting to much spark advance if you have ever experienced that before.
I purchased this truck used several years ago and I don't know what the PO did but the check engine light is not coming on and it doesn't throw a code. I put 10 new ford coil packs on it about a year ago so I really don't think it's a coil pack, but I could be wrong. To me it sounds like maybe it an injector problem????? I know there are several sensors on this engine and I am thinking maybe a crank position sensor is not working right but I honestly don't know???? Is there a way to test this sensor?
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I have a 2000 f350 5.4 liter I recently fixed a misfire in cylinder 1 since then every morning the truck runs perfectly fine however at night when I leave work around 6 o'clock the truck has a misfire again I stopped pullover pull the spark plug out put the spark plug back in and it runs perfectly fine all over again I don't know if this matters but when I replace the spark plug I only replaced one and not all 8 same thing with the new coil pack I don't see how that could cause this.
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