Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2005 F350 - Drive Straight When Steering Wheel Turned About 30 Degree To Left?
Aug 11, 2015
I just picked up a 2005 SC LB 4x4 5.4 v8 6mt F-350 yesterday and drove it about 250 miles home. It is my first Super Duty, and I love it so far but... the steering has some issues. There seems to be decent amount of play in the steering wheel when I'm driving straight. Also, the truck drives straight when the steering wheel is turned about 30 degrees to the left, and I would like to fix that and bring it to center. When I was cruising on the highway (65-70 mph), there was also two 20 minute periods of time spaced an hour apart where the steering would get light and the truck would dart to the left (i do not think road conditions were a factor as it did not happen on the worst stretches of highway. The truck has 133,000 miles on it, and has had pretty routines maintenance done on it, as it was owned by a drilling business as a work truck to haul tools. The guy I bought it from said that it needed the steering shock/damper replaced, so I will do that, but what else to you think I need to do to the truck?
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I have a 2005 f350 lariat 6.0. My horn, cruise volume, heat and fan controls on the wheel are not working. The airbag light isn't on. I am thinking that it's the clock spring. The stereo controls were intermittent for a while so I think it's the clock spring. I just want to be sure. Anything I could check?
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Took delivery of car and alignment is way off. Steering wheel is turned left when car is straight. The dealership is trying to charger me for a alignment. Car has 2500 miles on it and came from factory this way.
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My F350 4x4 won't go into 4 wheel drive unless I get out and take them out of auto and put them in locked position and when I have it in lock mode it seams to work like it's in auto mode, when I put the switch on the dash in 2wd, it seams like it's only driving the back wheels....
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Seems that after a sharp right turn, for instance turning right at a stop sign I'll get a loud pop that I can feel in the floor pan under my feet.
After the pop the steering wheel and whole front of the truck will shift left and right like someone is grabbing the wheel, sometimes violently. If I drive slowly it will cure itself and sometimes not do it again for several days. I've check ball joints and hubs and they are in great shape. I pulled the hubs and greased the needle bearings about 6 months ago. I checked all steering components and the linkage that attached to the steering arm had some play so I replaced it. Then I found that some idiot took the steel sleeve out of the bushing in one end of the steering stabilizer. I bought a new stabilizer and cured a pop I'd had since I got the truck, but the other issues were not solved.
Alignment has been checked too.
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The steering wheel is locked on my 99 F-350. I messed around with the stupid thing for quite a while this evening and it won't budge! I need it to haul hay tomorrow....
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I have 2014 F350, was previous flood damaged, the steering keep sticking when I turn it to the left, not always in the same spot, but sometimes it just locks and will not turn right, needs lots of jiggling and then it release, as I say in different places but always when turning to the left, never when turning to the right. Does this indicate steering gear fault or something else?
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This must have been asked before but I couldn't find any thread about it. Have a 2006 F350 that makes a rattling sound when engaged in front wheel drive. Sounds a bit like a loose ball from a ball bearing (or a small stone) rolling around. What might be causing this?
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I have a 2005 f350 6.0, my left rear stop signal is not working. I have changed the relay. I only get 5-6 volts at the plug and green-orange wire all the way to the engine bay. Not sure what the problem is????
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I got a 2001 f350 got a noise in my left front wheel i know its not the wheel bearings, it only makes the noice when the locking hub is unlocked i did jack the the truck up and spun the wheel got a faint grinding noises form what seems like the locking hub so my question is bad locking hub or needle bearing holding the axle shaft??
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Yesterday while traveling about 30mph and starting into a slight left turn the steering wheel locked, when the brake pedal was applied it was rock hard and would not engage braking resulting in a single vehicle crash, no injuries. 8300 miles...
How would I make Ford aware of this incident and get them involved? Is it likely that such events may have been logged somehow in the computer? The truck is at our collision repair shop waiting for an insurance adjuster to inspect.
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I had some steering issues with my truck so took it for an evaluation at pep boys. They recommended a new steering gear box and tie rod that hooks to the pitman arm so I had them replace them. Steering was improved but now the wheel is canted to the left or right depending on when I make a turn. When I make a left turn, the wheel is canted about 10 o'clock. When I make a right turn, it's canted about 1 o'clock.
I looked under and had my brother turn the wheel and didn't really notice any thing loose. I lifted the front and noticed the left wheel bearings need to be replaced. I also noticed the shocks were shot and replaced them but it didn't make a difference in the crooked wheel.
Do you think it's the wheel bearing that can cause this? How about the ball joints? The truck has 407k miles and I bought it a month ago. Previous owner said he never replaced any steering components. Should I just replace all steering components with the Moog kit? I'd like to hold off on the $600+ kit for now as I just bought a a boat and the boat needs some stuff. I hope to find that one thing (hopefully not more) that's loose.
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At center, my truck is able to turn 2 1/2 revolutions to the right and only 1 1/4 turns to the left. Making sharp left turns is not possible currently. What needs to be adjusted in order to get the steering centered and even?
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I have a 2013 f350 4x4 diesel. I bought used with 80,000km on it. Started getting a bad vibration in the steering wheel around 80km/h. went too ford and replaced the track bar ball joint and steering stabilizer. After that the truck drove perfect. The next day I went and put on my new rims and tires (used tires) 20" rims with 35x12.5 r20 amp m/t tires. They used beads too balance tires. I left the tire shop and the wobble was back, I went right back too the tire shop and they took the tires and rims off too inspect more and found that one tire had kind of a flat spot and uneven wear.
So they put it on the back as too take away a little bit of the vibration, idea is too wear down that bad tire till the flat spot is gone, when I'm driving it at highway speeds it wobbles a little bit and those goes away and then comes back every 20 seconds or so, will this go away or do I need too replace that tire, buddy of mine told me too do a little burnout and maybe even out the tire a little bit but amazingly that didn't work...or could something else be wrong? Factory tires were 275/65/r20 That I had on before. Also the worst vibration is at 80km an hour but like i said it comes and goes. Will it get better?
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I have a tow haul problem with my 2008 F350 6.4L. It will not go into tow haul unless I tilt steering wheel up all the way and than slam it down and than it will engage. Than when I want to take it out, I have to shut off truck. Any wiring diagram and info on how to get at the wiring. Do I have to disarm Air Bag and pull Steering wheel?
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I have an 04 lariat f350 and after cleaning the steering wheel it is a bit sticky.... What the material is?? Or how to resolve the sticky issue??
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So, I'm tired of this crap power steering. Since I just blew up my lpop on my 6 blow, apparently a thing with manual trans, replaced and she runs fine, I decided it is time to fix the screwed up worthless sloppy steering, and almost lack of any power steering at stop or slow drive. Picked up a rebuilt pump., and took out my old box with 220k.
I almost bought a cardone box, but frankly my input shaft had less play than 2 I ordered in. The only problem with my box is it has a tiny amount of play on the sectorshaft which translates to a lot of slop.
I've been looking into hydraulic ram assist steering, as I run 6" lift with 37s on a crew cab long bed. The thing has sucked at life since I bought it with wider 35s a few years back.
Is hydraulic assist worth it and if I go drop 500 on a redhead box, between this and the ram, am i going to be looking at decent steering on road in the future? I have no plans to offroad this boat anchor of a truck. I have a nice fun light 2 door turbo montero for that.
Do I do it, or just stick with a rebuilt box and pump?
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So I have a 1999 F350 diesel and the fuse panel under the steering wheel is acting up. I was driving my truck home the other night and I lost power and my truck shut off. I have had a problem in the past with the #30- 30 amp fuse ( controls the PCM and glow plugs from my understanding) that is under the steering wheel, I replaced the fuse and everything started working normally again.
Until the other night when my truck shut off, so I replaced the fuse the truck drove again for 20 feet died again, I was able to hold the #30 fuse and allow my truck to start up again but would eventually killed the PCM and shut off again and would not start up due to what I believe the fuse location shorting it out and killing the power to the PCM preventing me from starting it up again. I had my truck towed home and charged the battery and it started up fine the next morning. If I push on the #30 fuse my truck the shorts out and kills the power, I do not know if this is normal?
The fuse is sitting loose in the fuse holder is there anyway making it fit tighter to prevent it from being so loose? I have read every other post online about the problems and tried everything they have recommended but still can not figure out what was wrong with my truck. I disconnected the fuel filter heater, and also the wastegate solenoid to see if that would prevent the truck from shorting out if I pushed the fuse it did not work.
What the problem could be causing the #30 - 30 amp fuse to be shorting out preventing everything from working? Or how to test the fuse panel and all the relays?
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I've noticed when I'm towing, on long down hill grades if I touch the brakes I get what feels like a rotor causing the steering wheel to shake. At first it was only mild, but today on a long 6% grade it got really bad. Never does it on a level road, I've tried to duplicate it, only on a long down hill grade, and I'm not getting a pulse in the brake pedal at all, only the shake in the steering wheel. It's probably time to replace the pads anyhow, and I'll check the rotors. What things to look at?? 2006 F350, 6.0 dually 4x4.....
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So I have a 2005 f250 Super Duty 6.0 diesel it is the xlt with leather. So I don't much care for the steering wheels on this truck so i purchase a 05 f150 steering wheel. The splines and everything match up but the plug for the cruise control does not, need a wiring diagram or have done the swap and can tell me what wires connect where.
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A few weeks ago, my employees were driving home one of my work trucks, a 2001 F350 7.3 4x4 Crew w. 130K miles. They were on a straight road in a small town when the steering went completely out. The truck veered into a telephone pole. No one was injured. The truck has major damage to the front passenger's side.
I finally got the truck back to my shop today. It is quite evident what caused the problem. The gear/splined shaft that protrudes from the steering box and is connected to the pitman arm sheared completely off.
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