Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: F350 Lost Power - Fuse Panel Under Steering Wheel Shorting Out


Nov 3, 2015

So I have a 1999 F350 diesel and the fuse panel under the steering wheel is acting up. I was driving my truck home the other night and I lost power and my truck shut off. I have had a problem in the past with the #30- 30 amp fuse ( controls the PCM and glow plugs from my understanding) that is under the steering wheel, I replaced the fuse and everything started working normally again.

Until the other night when my truck shut off, so I replaced the fuse the truck drove again for 20 feet died again, I was able to hold the #30 fuse and allow my truck to start up again but would eventually killed the PCM and shut off again and would not start up due to what I believe the fuse location shorting it out and killing the power to the PCM preventing me from starting it up again. I had my truck towed home and charged the battery and it started up fine the next morning. If I push on the #30 fuse my truck the shorts out and kills the power, I do not know if this is normal?

The fuse is sitting loose in the fuse holder is there anyway making it fit tighter to prevent it from being so loose? I have read every other post online about the problems and tried everything they have recommended but still can not figure out what was wrong with my truck. I disconnected the fuel filter heater, and also the wastegate solenoid to see if that would prevent the truck from shorting out if I pushed the fuse it did not work.

What the problem could be causing the #30 - 30 amp fuse to be shorting out preventing everything from working? Or how to test the fuse panel and all the relays?

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Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: F350 Lost Power - Fuse Panel Under Steering Wheel Shorting Out

So I have a 1999.5 F350 diesel and the fuse panel under the steering wheel is acting up. I was driving my truck home the other night and I lost power and my truck shut off. I have had a problem in the past with the #30- 30 amp fuse ( controls the PCM and glow plugs from my understanding) that is under the steering wheel, I replaced the fuse and everything started working normally again. Until the other night when my truck shut off, so I replaced the fuse the truck drove again for 20 feet died again, I was able to hold the #30 fuse and allow my truck to start up again but would eventually killed the PCM and shut off again and would not start up due to what I believe the fuse location shorting it out and killing the power to the PCM preventing me from starting it up again.

I had my truck towed home and charged the battery and it started up fine the next morning. If I push on the #30 fuse my truck the shorts out and kills the power, I do not know if this is normal? The fuse is sitting loose in the fuse holder is there anyway making it fit tighter to prevent it from being so loose? I have read every other post online about the problems and tried everything they have recommended but still can not figure out what was wrong with my truck. I disconnected the fuel filter heater, and also the wastegate solenoid to see if that would prevent the truck from shorting out if I pushed the fuse it did not work.

What the problem could be causing the #30 - 30 amp fuse to be shorting out preventing everything from working? Or how to test the fuse panel and all the relays?

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Yesterday while traveling about 30mph and starting into a slight left turn the steering wheel locked, when the brake pedal was applied it was rock hard and would not engage braking resulting in a single vehicle crash, no injuries. 8300 miles...

How would I make Ford aware of this incident and get them involved? Is it likely that such events may have been logged somehow in the computer? The truck is at our collision repair shop waiting for an insurance adjuster to inspect.

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Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2013 F350 - Bad Vibrations In The Steering Wheel Around 80km/h

I have a 2013 f350 4x4 diesel. I bought used with 80,000km on it. Started getting a bad vibration in the steering wheel around 80km/h. went too ford and replaced the track bar ball joint and steering stabilizer. After that the truck drove perfect. The next day I went and put on my new rims and tires (used tires) 20" rims with 35x12.5 r20 amp m/t tires. They used beads too balance tires. I left the tire shop and the wobble was back, I went right back too the tire shop and they took the tires and rims off too inspect more and found that one tire had kind of a flat spot and uneven wear.

So they put it on the back as too take away a little bit of the vibration, idea is too wear down that bad tire till the flat spot is gone, when I'm driving it at highway speeds it wobbles a little bit and those goes away and then comes back every 20 seconds or so, will this go away or do I need too replace that tire, buddy of mine told me too do a little burnout and maybe even out the tire a little bit but amazingly that didn't work...or could something else be wrong? Factory tires were 275/65/r20 That I had on before. Also the worst vibration is at 80km an hour but like i said it comes and goes. Will it get better?

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Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2005 F350 - No Horn Or Steering Wheel Controls

I have a 2005 f350 lariat 6.0. My horn, cruise volume, heat and fan controls on the wheel are not working. The airbag light isn't on. I am thinking that it's the clock spring. The stereo controls were intermittent for a while so I think it's the clock spring. I just want to be sure. Anything I could check?

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I've noticed when I'm towing, on long down hill grades if I touch the brakes I get what feels like a rotor causing the steering wheel to shake. At first it was only mild, but today on a long 6% grade it got really bad. Never does it on a level road, I've tried to duplicate it, only on a long down hill grade, and I'm not getting a pulse in the brake pedal at all, only the shake in the steering wheel. It's probably time to replace the pads anyhow, and I'll check the rotors. What things to look at?? 2006 F350, 6.0 dually 4x4.....

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I just picked up a 2005 SC LB 4x4 5.4 v8 6mt F-350 yesterday and drove it about 250 miles home. It is my first Super Duty, and I love it so far but... the steering has some issues. There seems to be decent amount of play in the steering wheel when I'm driving straight. Also, the truck drives straight when the steering wheel is turned about 30 degrees to the left, and I would like to fix that and bring it to center. When I was cruising on the highway (65-70 mph), there was also two 20 minute periods of time spaced an hour apart where the steering would get light and the truck would dart to the left (i do not think road conditions were a factor as it did not happen on the worst stretches of highway. The truck has 133,000 miles on it, and has had pretty routines maintenance done on it, as it was owned by a drilling business as a work truck to haul tools. The guy I bought it from said that it needed the steering shock/damper replaced, so I will do that, but what else to you think I need to do to the truck?

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Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Power Steering Wheel Won't Turn At All At A Complete Stop

I just bought the truck 2 days ago and the power steering is acting up. When I test drove it I noticed the power assist seemed weak but it has gotten way worse over 2 days.

Truck is a 2001 F250 4x4 V10 auto. 60k miles and totally stock except for Harley Edition wheels and stock size tires.

Now at a complete stop the wheel won't turn at all. If I roll it works. Doesn't matter if I rev the engine. It doesn't matter if I'm on or off the brakes. Tires have plenty of air. The pump is quiet and does not make any abnormal noises.

This is terrible because how can you maneuver a trailer if you can't turn the wheels when stopped.

I noticed the fluid was low and not reading on the dipstick. I added a few ounces and that's all it took with no change. I then used a suction pump to empty the reservoir with the truck off. The fluid was very dirty, probably the original fluid given the mileage. I removed about a quart and refilled it with fresh Mercon ATF. I also changed the serpentine belt because I noticed the belt was probably the original and was cracked.

It went away briefly tonight as I was playing with it. I thought I fixed it but I was fooled. What I did was remove the reservoir cap and turn the wheel from lock to lock while rolling forward slowly. Suddenly it was fixed . But 5 minutes later the problem was back.

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