Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2002 - Rear Brake Hanging Up?
Jan 15, 2017
I keep having this problem with my 02 Superduty. The rear brakes keep locking up and smoke the pads. The truck is not driven much so that is most of the issues. it has less than 63,000 miles on it. Mostly only driven in the winter with the salt and crud so rust is a problem. What is your advice on changing so that I can get more than a year without having to do it all over again. I am going to get new calipers and the brake kit. Should I get e-brake stuff too?
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Took truck out for a ride and stopped for gas. I smelled Brakes and upon inspection found the left rear brake pads were not releasing. Any take on what could be holding it? 2008 F-250.
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2002 f350 5.4L
No rear running lights or brake lights
No third brake lights
Headlights work
No signals or hazard.
I have power to the multifunction switch when I use a jumper wire to bypass the switch I can make the lights come on depending on which slot I put it in. I replaced the multifunction switch twice just to see if I got a new bad one the first time, but to no avail. I cant run my truck a night without the lights.
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So I bought this truck a year ago and the guy had his fog lights re wired to another switch under the dash and had a brake controller wired in (that's what I think it's called) the fog lights worked for a month then just stopped working there's a rats nest of wires under the hood for the fog lights too. The brake controller never worked.
My main question is what are the wires that are hanging down under my dash that look like someone snipped ....there's a random green wire attached to one and just hanging
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I have a 2006 F250 and my 7pin and 4 pin connectors are just hanging loose. I'm not sure what happened to the factory bracket. What is the part number for this bracket? Also, where does it mount to? I looked under the truck and couldnt tell where the factory one mounts.
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I replaced all the brake pads on all 4 wheels. Pretty standard procedure. I now have a very spongy brake pedal. It stops but the pedal will be almost to the floor. I did not break any of the lines open during the procedure just used c-clamp to spread the calipers. No ABS light. Have a Snap-On power bleeder and bled the system several times with no change. Checked the power steering fluid level and inspected entire system for leaks.
2002 F-550 V10
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About a year ago, I had my right rear brake caliper lock up on my F350 dually. The shop said it can happen and replaced both rear calipers. Last week I started to hear something from the rear and within less than a a few days, before I could get to a shop the noise increased and when I looked the rotor had been gouged on the right rear.
I cannot see the left rear rotor to compare as the wheels don't line up on that side to see through. So my question is this. Could it be the caliper failure was a symptom and not the cause. Maybe a proportion valve or something that could affect the pressure on that one wheel.
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Here's a new one. Driving along the other day and the back starts hopping. Stop to check and I notice that the rear brake is hot. Stop and wait for it to cool down and then look at the rear calliper, give a wiggle and it is free again. It then drove fine for a couple of days and then today, whilst driving down the road it starts to hop again. Stop and the same hub is hot. Only a mile home so drove slowly back to check it out. Thinking it is some muck got into it causing it to stick. (Living in the Rockies, lots of sand on the road at the moment to deal with all the snow.) When I get home found that front left wheel is cool but all other 3 are HOT!! The hopping started on a long flat stretch and I hadn't applied the brakes. Is it possible for the ABS sensor to apply the brakes when you are not using the pedal or is there another reason for 3 wheels to start braking?
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The other day I got in my truck and started down the driveway when I realized I had no brakes, I slowly backed up and parked it. I haven't driven the truck for approx. 2 weeks and it seemed fine then. The master cylinder is full, there are no signs of leakage from wheel cylinders or lines. Today I unscrewed the left front zert and no fluid came out. My pedal goes all the way to the floor.... Whats going on, and if its a easy fix?
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I have a 2002 Ford F250 Superduty with a 7.3 diesel. Brakes started sticking on it. I replaced all the calipers cause the boots were starting to crack but not leaking. All four brakes are still sticking. I can drive a little ways and then the brake peddle feels funny and they start dragging all four. I can loosen the bleeder and brake fluid will spray out and release the brakes for awhile.
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If you look at the top of the picture you can see the two bolts with fresh oil on them.
I have a 2002 Ford F250 V10 Pick up. I noticed oil leaking from under the oil pan. I wiped off the pan and bolts to see where it was coming from. The oil seems to be leaking from the rear of pan. There's always fresh oil on the rear bolts that hold the pan and I also noticed oil coming from one of the two hoses that go from the radiator to where the oil filter mounts.
But don't those hoses carry radiator fluid and not oil? I bought this truck in July and no oil leaking from underneath. It seemed to have started after I did my first oil change on it. I used regular Vavoline 5W-20 and motorcraft oil filter.
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Parking brake light stays doesn't come on when the parking brake is engaged. The light DOES come on when starting the vehicle and the gauge cluster cycles through its start up procedure. Couldn't find a fuse that would fix my issue...does one exist?
Truck is an '02 F250 w/ 7.3TD and 6 speed manual.
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My 2002 f350 diesel recently started acting up, the first sign was when my park brake light came on and the chime came on. I mucked around with a few things but still wont go away, while I was doing this a buddy noticed i had no brake lights at all and under further inspection no signals either, not even the clicking noise you usually hear also the cruise control has stopped working as well as the little screen mounted to the roof near the rear view mirror. I am fairly clueless with electrics (I don't even own a multi meter) but i do want to figure this out, i have noticed that fuse 20 was burnt and after replacing it it pops pretty much right when i push my foot on the breaks or signal.
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Today I was going to launch my new boat and when I backed down the ramp, the brake went to the floor almost sinking the truck. Long story short, the brake line that runs along the frame to the rear brakes rusted through at a bend that I couldn't see. Seems the line is about 8 feet long. What I'd like to know is can I replace it without dropping the fuel tank which of course I just filled yesterday and can I obtain one at a ford dealer or will I have to order one. My truck is my only transportation.
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Are the parking brakes on rear disks adjustable at all? Mine doesn't hold very well anymore, but I'm not quite ready to rebuild the whole thing. If there are adjusters (similar to drums), which way you turn them on which side of the truck?
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I'm gonna replace my front and rear brake pads. Any tips? Do I need to pull the rotor off and clean the axel? I've watched a couple of youtube videos but they leave me with a few answers. I have all the tools, what kinda lubricants will i need? Any recommendations? I hoping I can do a flawless job without and squealing...
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On my '97 F250 the rear brake line going to the rear right wheel has a rusted hole. It measures 50" total. Instead of bending a new metal line. I see they have a "poly armor" line that can be bent by hand( no tools needed). I see Autozone has them.
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The pads were replaced 5000 miles ago. Today the truck is acting hard to go, brakes are squealing, and I noticed a hot brake smell. I got home, grabbed a remote thermometer gun and the front rotors are 130 degrees, the back ones are 650 and 700 degrees! Super hot. I'm going to NAPA for new calipers and pads. I hope that fixes it.
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one of my f350 super duties has had the right rear brake caliper and slider replaced 4 times in less than a year. it has just gone for the fourth time today. i called ford who, after a long phone call, said it could be the metering valve. i have looked everywhere for this valve.....no luck. so i called them back and he said it was part of the HCU. after a few minutes, he finally told me it was also called the ABS module.
my question is..........can i just replace this metering valve or do i have to replace the whole unit?
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I have a 02' 250 4x4 with 250000 miles on it. While driving between 55 to 65 mph there is a roar and vibration that seems to be coming from the rear. I have about 35% tire tread left and have had the rear tires balanced and it still does it. Having issues with drive shafts unbalanced or rear ends?? I am not sure where to start....
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I have a 2008 f-250 2 days ago all light stopped work except the head lights found a blown fuse replaced with a new fuse and now all the lights work except the right rear brake and signal but the running light works so i know its getting power looked at the wireing and it all looked good to me oh ya pulled my trailer in and same thing everything worked but the right brake and signal ....
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