Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2004 F250 - Engine Noise / Right Side Cylinder Head Began Running Very Loud
Jun 14, 2014
To make a long story short, after replacing the timing chains, guides, and tensioners, the right side cylinder head began running very loud. Think of the usual chatter associated with these engines and multiply it. It was constant, from start up to shut down, and it increased with rpm. Thought at first it may be caused by debris in the oil clogging the lifter(s). After changing the oil multiple times along with different additives and driving roughly 600 miles, the noise persisted. Taking a look down the oil filler tube with a flashlight and with the engine running, the head looked dry. Safe to say at this point I was starving the head of oil.
Removed the valve cover. Removed the rearmost camshaft cap. Sure enough, the oil passage was completely blocked. Inspected everything and there was signs of running dry (minor discoloration, dried oil spots... but no real damage and no play anywhere. Put it all back together and the truck runs quieter than the day a bought it.
Here's the camshaft cap:
This is exactly what it looked like after removal. The material blocking the passage is hard and bridle like plastic.
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I have a '97 f350/460 efi with 210,000 miles on everything. the only oil it leaks is driver side cylinder head (very little). And that is my fault, a little impatient when changing head gaskets. Its gonna outlast me I am pretty sure. Anyway, fords rock...
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After replacing most of the underside of my Super Duty, Complete front end, backing plates, brakes, rotors and shocks, I have a misfire code on cylinder #4. I replaced the plugs, cleaned the MAS and filter and rotated the coil to cylinder #1. Still have a misfire on #4 and noticed the coolant slightly low and some condensation on the oil cap. Could this be the intake gasket? My mechanic is away for 2 weeks and I think the price at the dealer will kill me. I have 63K on the truck, don't tow and plow mostly family members. It's getting a little rusty but is still in good shape.
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(The truck is a 05 f250 with a 5.4l). The problem first started out with the engine temperature gauge spiking and then resetting itself when the truck is turned off and then turned back on. If I drove the truck for any distance it would go into limp mode and the CEL would come on. The code was p1299, which is the cylinder head temperature sensor, and I replaced the sensor but no luck. Then the shop and I went through all accessories hooked up and couldn't find a short until I remembered that my prodigy break controller would occasionally read "ol" or "sh" which both readings are from shorts. I tow a enclosed trailer about 85% of the time and the past week I have been towing it with a different 250 and the same break controller without a problem so I have eliminated the trailer. But the shop just said the problem was the controller and unhooked it.
Now the next day it threw the same code with the controller unhooked and the trailer hooked up. after thinking it seemed that it was happening when i accelerated so I took apart the 7 pin and sure enough there was a little water in it, but after driving it around for a little and no code being thrown I hooked my break controller up and it still was showing ol or sh so i believe there is still a short. Also I noticed that my voltage is reading right at 13v instead of the 13.8-14v it was reading before this issue arose. I think I have narrowed it down to the 7 pin harness and/or electrical in the break components, but do not know what would loop back to the temperature sensor.
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Have a 99 F250 V10 was having issues with it going in limp mode took it to the shop they said number 1 cylinder running hot I had the head rebuild all new gaskets less than 10 miles truck shuts off pullover no antifreeze put antifreeze and water in Reservoir start back up look at Reservoir it's empty shut it off pour more water in Reservoir and it go straight down to empty.
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I drive a 2000 F250 5.4L. Currently has about 168,000 miles on it. I changed the oil the other day and cleaned the air filter. I used what I usually use on the oil change which has never been a problem. But this is first time to clean the K&N filter. A day or so later my engine is making a loud air rushing noise. Under throttle the engine compartment sounds like a wind tunnel. At 3500ish rpms it makes a harsh whistle noise. The air rushing noise doesn't go away once its warmed up or after the engine has been cool. Noise didn't go away with the filter being taken off either.
Could all of this be caused by cleaning and not using k&n air filter oil (but rather WD40 upon Dad's suggestion)? Or is there something else going on?
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I have a 2004 Ford F250 Turbo Diesel, egr delete, headstuds, intake, dual stacks, etc and when i turn my wheel a loud whining noise comes from under the hood, I noticed it put tension in my brakes. When I accelerate it gets louder and when i let off the gas it goes away... i checked my fluid in my steering pump and it was low so i put some more in and the next day it was all sitting under neath the truck.... any quick fix or do i need to replace the whole pump?
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So I've put about 1000 miles on my 03 F250 since buying it, and just the other day it's started leaking from the rear of the passenger head gasket. Enough to drip on the driveway and exhaust, and have some exhaust smell. 126,000 miles, 5.4
I've checked with my local ford dealer, and It also needs passenger exhaust manifold and studs, so the dealer price to tack that on would be a whole lot more too since there are already a couple studs broke. It would be best to get it done when the head is pulled.
I've checked with several local mechanics, and none of them are interested in pulling the head on this engine. That has me concerned about doing it myself too..especially since it fits in my garage with only a few inches to spare..
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I bought a 2004 6.0L F-250 used a few weeks ago. There have been a few problems here and there that I have been competent enough to fix. I am now facing a problem of A: the truck not starting (I believe it was just a battery problem, charged and started fine). But also B: I have had a slightly frayed serpentine belt that I noticed a few days ago. After I got the truck running from my the no-start and driving it around the block I parked it and went inside. Came back out a few minutes later and I tried to start it. It hesitated a little bit but started with a loud whining noise and white smoke coming from the belt. Turned the engine off and saw on one of the bottom wheels (pulleys?) some residue that looked and smelled like burnt rubber. Is this just simply a need for a new belt?
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My 2002 F250 with the 5.4 (215,000 miles) has a loud tap upon start up, only on the passenger side, heard best in the wheel well. It only lasts about 30 seconds to a minute. It occasionally rears it's head driving around town but only intermittently. Just drove it 275 miles, at 13mpg, truck runs fine, just annoying.
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I have a 2004 ford f250 5.4 and ithe makes a Humming noise only at idle. I have checked the fan clutch. it seems to be good and does not spin freely. I was thinking maybe idle air control valve but the truck idles like normal and does not stall. the sound does go away when squeezing the air hose doing today the IAC but comes back as soon as you let off. can it still be the idle air control valve if idles fine and doesn't stall?
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I have a 04 f250 with aprox 95k on it 5.4L I knew I was over mileage for a due oil change I haven't been driving it much it crossed my mind, as I am usually very adamant about changing fluids. I went to check my oil and only a smudge of oil on the dip stick. I know this is not good but the truck runs fine, no noises, no knocking, not a chatter from the valve train. Oil pressure was good everything seemed fine did I get lucky? I know it wasn't good I am not going to let that happen again everyone think I dodged the bullet?
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Problem started with the front end shaking a little bit when braking like the rotors needed turning. Then the brakes began to intermittently hum when stopping. Then my ABS light came on. Put the truck up on the stands and disassembled the brakes on both sides. The ABS sensor was chewed up on the driver side. The less than year old hub felt sloppy so I changed it. Put everything back together.
New hub came with new ABS sensor. Went for a test drive ABS light is gone and I no longer shake or experience the hum when applying the brakes. However now when I go to stop right before I come to a complete stop the driver side (new hub/spindle side) I hear what sounds like the grade school class clown making a fart sound with his mouth, and the truck pulls to the driver side. Is the ABS system malfunctioning or is this a caliper issue? Calipers look like they are OEM.
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I have a 2006 f250 6.0l diesel. I just replaced the egr valve plus egr cooler and I was going to flush the coolant. I was filling the truck with distilled water to do the flush when I noticed a leak under the truck. When looked to see where it was coming from it looks like it's coming from where the cylinder head meets the block on both sides in the back by the transmission. Is this a sign that the head gaskets are shot or did I forgot to tighten a hose or something stupid like that?
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My 2007 f250 power stroke 6.0. My A/C comp went out. After replacing it I was told that my fan clutch is bad and will cause the new ac to go out. My engine is not running hot. The fan still spins for a while after engine is turned off.
1) Could it have not been re installed correctly?
2) How do I know my Fan Clutch is bad?
3) How do I replace it myself?
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I just purchased a '12 f250 Lariat w/ 39k miles. When I got home I noticed one of the three LED running board lights does not work on the passenger side. Can I replace this myself?
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I have a 02 F250 with 137 thousand miles. When it had 130 thousand on it I had the plugs changed unknowing that this year 5.4 was known for blowing the plugs.
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I have a 2006 f250 lariat 192k no mods except k&n filter everything is stock. I have 2" pro comp level kit and a scan gauge 2 nothing fancy! Well the other day I noticed my truck was chirping like a Chirp chirp chirp...... Chirp chirp...... Chirp chirp chirp! It goes up and down with the rpm's but it's comes on and off only when the engine is up to running temps the belt does squeak during warm up but I don't think that's it, it's coming from the back of the engine I'm sure of it because I used a paper towel tube and listed right in the turbo hpop area on top of the engine but it's too hard to tell I can't find exactly where it's coming from, some people I've had listen think it's a belt or pulley or tensioner! But I'm not sure if it is because I've sprayed water, and wd40 on the belt and pulleys with no change!!! I'm afraid it's a lifter or something inside the engine yet it's too loud and pronounced to sound like it's coming from the inside! I'm just lost!
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I have a 2000 F250 2wd 6spd with a loud banging noise that has been vexing me for quite sometime now. The bang happens when I go over bumps (even small ones like road reflectors) while driving. I don't think it is suspension related since all the ball joints, front/rear swaybar and endlink bushings have been replaced fairly recently. All the springs and bushings also look okay.
The noise seems to come from the rear, and I notice that if I let off the gas when I go over a bump, it does not make a sound. Conversely, if I am accelerating aggressively and hit a bump, the sound is much louder. Also, if I step on the clutch while keeping my foot steady on the gas, it makes a bang. Jumping up and down in the bed while the truck is parked does not recreate the sound. I have already greased the driveshaft spline joint so I'm thinking the sound might be differential or transmission related. What it could be?
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I have an 02 f250 5.4. I just did the intake manifold. I also changed the spark plugs and the valve cover gasket. Following this I drained the oil and filled it with fresh oil.
It started right up but it felt like the engine was really vibrating and running rough. The check engine light than came on. I don't have one of those tools to diagnose it.
What could be wrong?
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I have 2004 Ford, thought it needed injectors because it was struggling hard almost a side to side movement. Had a friend recommend replacing the FICM, did that now it stumbles, less often, less movement like it's muted. I noticed it again yesterday after hard breaking, but also really likes to do it in heavy traffic.
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