Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2004 F350 - Transfer Case Blowout
Aug 25, 2015
The transfer case on my 2004 F350 6.0L 4WD DRW, 230K miles, just blew to pieces Sunday night. See images below. What could cause this?
I just had the front drive shaft rebuilt with new universals and ball. It was making a metallic squealing noise after this.
I noticed that the front drive shaft did not spin freely when parked in nuetral and set for 2WD. I thought the front drive shaft would only engage when in 4WD.
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Trying to stay up on my maintenance on my '11 f-350 diesel. It just turned 59k. I can only find Ford's recommended service interval for changing the fluid in the transfer case listed in the "Special Operating Conditions" section of my Scheduled Maintenance Guide for towing, delivery, off-road and dusty conditions at 60,000 miles. I tow some, but maybe 20% of the time, I end up driving a lot of stop and go though.
So I found this nice how to online "Guzzle's Transfer Case Fluid Change" - it's for a 02 heavy duty, is it about the same on the newer diesel trucks?
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Truck is an 03 F350 with the 6.0. It sometimes sounds like the shift motor on the transfer case is trying to engage. It has the vacuum system which is blocked off. Warn aftermarket hubs. Switch on the dash with 2wd, 4wd and 4 low.
It's kind of an off and on thing. Try to engage for a few or more seconds then nothing for awhile then repeat. It sounds like it's at the transfer case. It could very well be coming from firewall/engine bay area as well. Is there anything between the dash switch and the motor?
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I'm in the process of changing my shift motor on my 04 f350. I can't get it off because of a broken bolt. The previous owner must have done this before, and snapped the head and some of the shaft off, so it's basically an alignment pin that's recessed into the hole on the motor. For some reason it's holding the motor on, even though I don't think the hole is threaded. Any way to get it off. I'm thinking that taking a MAP gas torch to the casting on the motor may be my best bet.
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For about a week or now i have been trying to track down a sound from my truck, i had another post up and was finally with jhl3 able to determine that the sound is coming from my transfer case. The other thread with video of sound is located here : [URL] .... I've got a little bit of time to mess with i now
Quick rundown, began hearing odd sounds about a week ago, determined that it is transfer case. Front hubs are unlocked, esof switch is set to 2wd. Can not turn front drive shaft. I just put some zip ties on front drive shaft and went for a short spin, determined front drive shaft IS turning. Hubs are not locked and 4x4 is not engaged, did the sharp slow turn test, no feel of pull from front end.
Im not quite sure where to go from here, going to check connections at tcase motor and some relays.
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Originally it would light up on the dash, the hubs would lock, but the transfer case would not shift in to 4 wheel. Followed the troubleshooting I've found, was receiving power at the connection on the shift motor but it was not turning.
So I went and bought a new motor, installed it, still wouldn't turn. (with the motor off the transfer case but electrically connected). So I found a few more replies about the relays, swapped them, nothing.
Removed the covers and manually flipped the connection, nothing. Now my hubs are locked, transfer case is not, and I get nothing when I change the switch on the dash. (no lights, no hub click shift, no 4 low, nada). All the fuses are good, just doesn't work.
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New floor mats. My truck is going to be 10yr old and has the original King Ranch floor mats. I want some heavy duty rubber ones that will fit around my manual transfer case lever. I ordered the Weathertech digital fit liners and I am not happy with them so they are headed back tomorrow. They have a heavy duty all weather mat but not sure how it will work with my shift lever on the floor. Husky liners/mats look nice and heavy duty but won't accommodate the floor lever.
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We have a 2000 F250 7.3L Diesel. A few years ago we switched out the auto hubs for manual Warn hubs. We've had no problems with 4x4 since that time, until now!! The 4x4 Hi light is on and the transfer case is engaged. Since the hubs are manual we have them unlocked, however we can't get the 4x4 to disengage. At one point, tried changing to low and it hesitated but finally went in to 4 Lo, then we had a hard time getting it out of 4Lo and back to 4 Hi. Here's what we've tried--checked fuses, checked and replaced relays, checked wiring connection at the transfer case. Husband used volt meter to test power at transfer case wiring connector--showed 0.5 volt of power with the key on. No change in reading. Checked power at relay--about 14.5 volts there. Took truck to repair shop but their computer could not communicate with the GEM.
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I just changed transfer case fluid on my father's F-350 for the first time in 13 years. (over 230k). Removed fill plug first and fluid gushed out of the fill hole unexpectedly. Did not have catch pan ready, so made a mess. I thought it was just over filled form the factory, but too much was coming out to be simple overfill. Almost 2 qt came out of the fill plug.
Did some google search and found many Ford trucks have failed transmission output shaft seal and transmission fluid leaks out to transfer case, causing transfer case to overfill. I am yet to check transmission fluid level, but considering how much came out of it that probably is the case.
Now, how bad of the problem this really is? Will overfilled transfer case cause some serious problem? 4x4 is rarely used (once or twice a year in winter) on this truck and from what I understand transfer case doesn't really do anything in 2WD other than just passing output from transmission through.
There are no fluid leaking outside and repairing the seal would be a too much of work for me.
Also changed rear differential fluid for the first time and I was surprised how clean the fluid was. There were thin layer of black sticky residue (sludge?) covering everything, but the fluid itself looked clean and no visible metal shavings. I guess that is why Ford said it does not require change under normal condition.
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2001 F250, 7.3L ... After much diagnosis, I've found that the 4 positive feeds to the transfer case relay base have no power to them. The fuse that feeds them (#17 CJB) is fine and when I jump from the fuse hot side directly to the transfer case motor contacts on the relay base, it shifts fine. As far as I can tell, there is only one wire leading from that fuse so there must be a junction block somewhere that splits it into the 4 wires that feed the relay block. I've looked underneath and found nothing. How the 1 wire gets split into 4? On diagrams this junction point is labeled, but I don't know where to find that.
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Made a short run to get lumber yesterday and when I got home the truck smelled hot I checked it out and found a transmission oil leak at the rear of the transmission in front of the transfer case. can not really see what is leaking only has 22,000 miles. What may have happen. 2011 F250 4x4 6.7....
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I have a 03 f 350 6.0. My 4x4 wont engage. I checked my fuses all are good except 31 no power. Is this the culprit?. I get power at the 6pin pig tail on shift motor, but the 2pin pig tail doesn't get any power at all. I pulled shift motor off manually put power on it and it works. I also replaced both 30amp relays under hood...
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I recently purchased 1999 7.3 PSD The owners manual says that the crank case holds 14 qts. I have read on other sites 15 quarts. In my engine 14 is barely at the add mark. The cross hatch area is 2 quarts to the high mark. My question is should I put is 15 quarts to get the level up onto the cross-hatched area or leave it down at the add mark ?? I'm using Motorcraft 15 W 40 Dino oil. and I replaced the filter with the correct Fram filter.
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I have a 2004 F350 with the V-10 with a Fleetwood motor home on it. 46000 miles.The fuel pump started acting up and i have low fuel pressure. after a lot of testing i replaced the pump and all the hoses on top of the tank. of course you have to pull the tank to do this.
Nothing was touched to my knowledge that has to do with the ABS system.
After everything was put back together and i started the motor. the ABS light came on as usual during the pre-check then went off, and after a couple of seconds came back on, and stays on. it does this each time its started.
I read the most common problem is the rear speed sensor i tested it and it measured .95 oms so i replace it. the new one measures 1.8 oms.
Light is still on. so today i will be testing the front. to insure they are good. The fuses tested OK. My question is what else should i be checking?
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My 2004 F350 6.0L v8 has a weird shake when I get between 45 and 55 mph. Doesn't feel like its the tires, feel like the engine. I think I might have the #5 glo plug out. Is that it or could something else be wrong? If it is this how bad is it to drive on.
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I have a 2004 F350. I go out to start my vehicle and it may or may not turn over. Other time it starts fine
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On dads 04 f350 the 4wd first wasn't shifting to 4lo. Would do 4hi and 2wd fine. Then motor on t-case went bad. Replaced motor 2wd and 4hi still good still no 4lo. Then just 2wd so we unplugged t-case motor and power probed motor got it to do 2wd, 4hi, and 4lo. So we thinking bad dash switch but power probed it and its working fine. So we r thinking VP4C3F-14B128-A/ chassis computer bad just behind/above glovebox. R there any test we can do to confirm its bad? We called local junk yards to see bout getting one, nobody had one. If this is indeed bad where is cheapest get one? What all years use this certain chassis computer??
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Truck started to feel like it was missing here and there. A couple rough starts in the morning and a very potent exhaust smell at startup. Then finally after a couple days of this, it wouldn't start.
At first it would try to turn over and almost did several times, then it degraded to just churning and churning with no close attempts to turning over. No codes thrown when we hooked up the code reader. I've had the IPR go out on me twice, the churning and churning is how it acted when the IPR(s) had gone out.
Towed it home and pulled the IPR, everything looked in order with it. Changed the upper fuel filter and oil/filter in an attempt to rule out the easy stuff. Tried to start it up last night after doing this and it churned and churned for awhile (about 2 minutes), then it almost turned over several times. By this time the batteries were too low to continue. Hooked up the code reader again and still no codes.
I'm planning on charging the batteries and replacing the lower fuel filter today, but not feeling real optimistic that it will do the trick. Any other issues to check for?
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Well long story short, I had the the factory hubs in my 04 f-350 and I was driving down the road and it started making this horrible popping noise. So I pulled over and couldn't find anything and just curiosity locked in the hubs and all was fine. Made me think my hubs were bad, so I went and bought the warren premium hubs, installed them. Went for a drive and still the same noise is there when they are in free spin. But once they are locked in its fine. What this could be? Wheel bearings?
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My 04 F350 has a bad shudder when slowing down between 30 and 10 MPH. Not so noticeable at other speeds and almost nothing while speeding up. How to fix?
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My 4wd doesn't engage on my 04 powerstroke. The dash light doesn't come on. I replaced the relays, switch, and 4wd module, I checked the fuses, all fuses are good, but fuse 31 doesn't get power to it. The voltage at the relay block reads 12v with the fuses out, but drops to around 7v when they're plugged in. I have no power to the Tcase (.15v).
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