Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2005 F250 V8 - Oil Pressure Drops When Braking
Mar 17, 2017
I have an 05 F250 Super Duty 6.0 V8 Turbo Diesel. This is my first diesel so don't know my way around it too much yet. I just don't know what could cause this problem. It sounds like a faulty sensor to me. But no engine light has come on. My oil pressure drops down to in the red zone when I brake while driving, then once I return to driving again it returns to the normal pressure. It's almost as if it has something to do with the tilt of the vehicle.
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I have a 2001 Ford F250 V10 with about 70,000 miles on it and now the gauge indicates low pressure when my warmed up truck idles around 1000 RPM.
I went off road the other day into some mud and since then I have had my oil pressure gauge reporting low at idle and normal when moving.
I was a quart and 1/2 low on oil which I filled and the next day I changed the oil. I then had taken it Ford shop who replaced the oil sensor and said all fixed. It wasn't and I took it back in ... now the mechanic indicated it is probably the crankshaft bearing based on his experience and I should replace the engine.
This seems drastic? Wouldnt' the next step to go check/replace the oil pump?
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While driving today, 2006 Ford F-250 5.4 L V8 138,000 miles , I experienced a problem. Started with the truck acting as if it was running rough, possibly missing. This was approx. 10 Minutes after starting. Checked the dash, no warning indicators and all gauges were normal. Approx. 4 more miles, the oil pressure alarm signals and I see the oil gauge has dropped to zero. I pull over, turn off and check the oil. Oil is clean and at a normal level. I restart the truck and the oil pressure goes back to normal.
Rev the truck up while sitting there and after a few seconds i hear a knocking noise in the engine and oil pressure drops again. Call the tow truck, driver used to be a mechanic . He asks me to start it again and the same thing happens. If you start it and let it idle oil pressure seems to go up to normal with no engine noise. Finally get to the mechanic and he calls me later saying the oil pump and screen may need to be replaced or the engine may need to be replaced.
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I have a 2013 F550, v10. At idle, the oil pressure gauge drops and the red oil light comes on. If I hit the gas, the gauge pops back up. I swapped out the oil pressure switch. That didn't fix the problem.
I thought maybe the gauge was faulty, so I bought a 2 inch mechanical oil pressure gauge and hooked that up, leaving the factory gauge disconnected.
I watched the oil pressure start around 50 psi cold, and it slowly fell to 10-15 psi as it warmed up. The truck has 65k miles on it. There is no knocking, no ticking, no loss of performance.
I cannot imagine that at 65k miles, that it would be a worn engine. Right??
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We have replaced 4 fuel pumps on a row.
Voltage is good...even ran a fresh circuit.
Ran new supply lines
But, can't seem to understand the continued drop in pressure. It usually takes about a day of driving to crater after a new pump/filter is installed.
It never dies, just loses power and drops the truck to an idle. Funny thing...if I shut the truck off and turn it right back on...full power for a short period!
The truck is used on a ranch that has plenty of rough roads...thought inertia switch maybe but i believe that would stop fuel completely right?
I am totally stumped and so is the mechanic.
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When braking the truck shakes terribly, enough to toss a drink out of the cup holder almost. Sometimes there is a slight feeling in the peddle but not always. The shudder feels like it is timed with each revolution of the wheels.
It developed from a perfectly stopping truck over the course of maybe a month. I don't drive the truck that much either.
Things I have checked:
1, all u-joints, they all look and feel good, no play or slop in them
2, air pressure in all tires, even rotated them, no effect
3, brakes-front and back all looked good but I went ahead and replaced front pads and rotors, cleaned caliper pins, zero effect.
4, shudder exists whether in gear and slowing or in neutral, 2wd and 4wd
What the heck else is there to check? My first thought was, front brakes/warped rotors, but after pulling them apart there was so much life left on the rotors and pads and replacing all that with new did nothing! Could bad back brakes cause this much of a shudder? They look fine as well.
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So yesterday I drove across town and back to pick up a piece of lawn equipment. About a 30 min hwy drive each way. On the way there I was in stop and go traffic for about 15mins and noticed toward the end the truck would pull hard to the right when stopping hard and sudden. I figure it was my steering. Been having issues with horrible steering since my last alignment and adjusting the caster. Truck wanders, steering feels loose, will not fully recenter, and feels like it binds then releases toward center position. That's a different issue, I assume. I stop on the way to get some cash and everything is normal. Pick up the equipment and drive back. When coming to a stop the truck will pull towards the right and when I suddenly stop it now pulls to the left.
I get home and get out and smell something burning and hot. Grabbed my IR thermometer and hit both front wheels. Passenger is 150f brake rotor is 175f, drive is 280f brake rotor is 580f. So im assuming my caliper seized up or started to stick. I plan to jack up the front and look at the hubs and calipers. Any other test I can do to narrow down the culprit. I am thinking the hoses may be collapsing especially since I had to disconnect and flip them during the lift. Just weird that the hard pull would switch sides if only the drivers was sticking. Could my bad steering and brake issue be related? I have also noticed my braking power has dropped recently. Brake fluid looks good but power steering smells like brake fluid and is orange.
Pulled the tire when I got home today. A little resistance when spinning by hand, more than there should be. Pulled the caliper and greased the slides. Found out my hub is bad so those are on the short list now. Reassembled and had my wife hit the brakes while I spun the tire. Progressively got harder and harder to spin. Was looking at the brake hoses, how much should they move and ''shrink'' when the brakes are applied? Also if I hit the brakes repeatedly while rolling down my drive way the pedal gets harder and the truck doesn't want to stop and the pedal will slowly push all the way to the floor. Now I am just lost at what is causing my braking issue.
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My 2003 Ford F250 V10 seems to have a vibration, sometimes at all speeds and sometimes at freeway speeds. I replaced front hub assemblies and ball joints and rear calipers last year. When braking i have a vibration in rear as well, which I think is from uneven rotor but can it be causing my vibration? Also sometimes I can smell hot brakes from the rear.
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I have a few F-250's that have been having steering problems. and they all have the same symptoms.
When taking a long slow curve, the steering wheel will jump back like 6 inches, as if the pressure is going out. like say you had the vehicle turned to about 10 oclock, the wheel would go back and forth between 10 and 11. However, you do not loose much of your turning. It just has more pressure against your hand as if the power steering goes out.
You can also do it a standing stop. Only when you turn your wheel like say to 9, you can just use a finger to hold it there and it will bounce up and down? I have asked the local Dealership, and their answer was "there is something wrong with the power steering." couldn't get much more vague than that I guess.
I have looked for leaks, none. Checked struts, not bent. Checked tires, all brand new and balanced. Checked steering wheel mounts, all good to go... ???? Just lost...
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2008 F250 Crew Cab 5.4, 79K miles, had new brake pads installed at 40K miles. Recently, I noticed front end shudder and some pedal pulsation while braking. It started kind of sudden. My first thought was a warped rotor.
When I took things apart, I found passenger side front rotor was cracked and the caliper pistons were rusted and falling apart, the old pads were only worn about half way. My thoughts on a bad rotor were confirmed, and then some.
I replaced the broken caliper, both front rotors, installed new pads on all four wheels, and bled the brakes. To my surprise, the brake shuddering did not go away. I'm stumped.
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What is the proper tire pressure for these trucks (F250)?
Sidewall says max is 80 PSI.
Door jam says 71 PSI.
This is coming from a guy who has traditionally driven passenger cars and trucks. I've never even gotten CLOSE to advertised max PSI ratings. 71 seems awful close to max PSI.
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I have a 1992 F250 7.3 diesel 4x4 My brakes wont hold pressure I replaced master cylinder and calipers had the system pressure bled. I don't have any fluid lose and vacuum is good. Can the proportioning valve let fluid bypass, or the rear anti-lock braking system valve let fluid to bypass.
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Started truck it ran about 10 sec. then quit, low oil pressure came up on the dash will not start now.
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I just bought a 05 F-250 156" wheel base crew cab 6.0 with LT305/70R17 Nitto Terra Grapplers. What will be the tire pressure. Manufacture label on truck says 75psi cold but the tire itself says 65psi max. I mostly drive without a load also.
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I have a 2001 F-250 XLT 4x4 with V10. Truck will not start. No fuel pressure. My Haynes manual does not show ignition or fuel delivery wiring. I have found the relay box behind the radio/dash. I need a wiring diagram and info on which relay is the fuel pump relay. Want to know so I can jump relay to see if fuel pump is okay.
Truck had sat for a few weeks being ran very little, so had to jump start yesterday. Ran for about 15 min, the shut off, re-started and ran for 30 min. Truck sat for about 1.5 hours then would not start. Charged battery overnight and it is 100%.
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My uncles 1999 v10 started to leak from the high-pressure hose on the gearbox. Replaced the hose which lasted for a short time but is now leaking at the same spot. The hose swivels, is this normal, seems like a dumb design for a pressure hose. Also is there a certain trick to doing this hose? He also insists on using PS fluid instead of the ATF it calls for. Could this cause a problem with the seal?
Edit: Also the truck has been lifted on 35s since 16k miles and its now roughly at 170k. He tows with it as it is his work truck. But the truck is well taken care of.
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2000 f250 V10 ...
Problem: More often than not when the key is turned to run (?), prior to engaging the starter, the fuel pump does not turn on for its 5 seconds. I have installed a fuel pressure tester gauge to watch the fuel line pressure. It was a little shaky to diagnose because if the line had pressure/fuel from the previous run it will start and run a short time and then die from lack of fuel. Unless the fuel pump activates when the key is turned to run, prior to full start, then there will be no fuel coming from the pump. No start. If you work the key to run a few times until the pump engages its good to go. The truck has never died while driving, once it gets that initial pump activation it runs good until the next start up cycle. When the pump does work it builds up to good "book" pressure and holds it at 39 when the engine is shut off.
We have put off changing the fuel pump for obvious reasons but can not see how it could be the problem since it has never quit once after we get it started. Are we wrong? We know the fuel shut off is on as it will run. We have changed the key lock tumblers, the ignition switch and the fuel pump relay. (behind the radio). Next up is to re-seat all the fuses and relays in the main fuse panel box under the hood. I just read that today on FTE. Is there a test we can do or some engine codes we need to look for? This problem is getting old fast.
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I have a 2005 f350 6.0 has 585000. Installed new hpop and lpop and new ipr .pressured oil system with air don't hear any leaks. After truck done started then put truck together no start same problem as before. No oil pressure on dash. All checks goqd except not enough high pressure.
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2010 F-250. the tire pressure warning light is on and the cruise is not working. Verified all TPMS sensors are working and sending signal with the reprogramming tool. using my scan tool, I got several U codes saying there is no communication with the instrument panel control module. I have cleared the codes, they did not return immediately and the problem persists.
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I have a 2010 f250 6.4 About two months ago the truck just quite on me. I am a farmer in south jersey and have a decent background in diesel motors. First thing that came to mind was fuel. I assumed I was having a fuel issue (clogged filters, failed pump, etc.) truck only had 45,000 miles on it so I took it to my local dealership for what I assumed would be a warranty job. I dealer service all my trucks while under warranty. Long story short I was told it was a fuel contamination issue which scared the walls of the hpfp throwing metal pieces into the injectors, fouling them.
I would need all new injectors, fuel rails etc. as well as new filter housings, fuel tank cleaning, etc. I had receipts for every drop of fuel put in the vehicle and fought all the way to through the dealership to Ford who sent out a rep and who denied the warranty work. Fortunately my insurance company covered the ordeal and all repairs were completed. I got the truck back and 2 weeks later the truck died on me again. I called the dealership back who supposedly warranted the repairs but there first words were there is no way it is their problem, they would look at it but I have to consent that if they find it is contamination again I am responsible for the repairs which we all know just to diagnose they have to remove the cab etc.
I of course lost my mind and told them this is there issue and there is no way in hell I am that unlucky that I received 2 bad tanks of fuel from 2 different high volume highway side fuel stations in the same 2 months. it is obvious they missed something or there is another issue that was not addressed. They claim there is no way they missed something. I am at a standstill.
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I recently came a cross a no start issue with my truck. It is 2005 ford f350 6.0 ... Found out I have a leak in the high pressure system. When I was taking out the bolts out from the manifold I stripped out two bolts. I know ford part # w301383 is the ford bolt. But I was thinking why use that same bolt and had have that issue again later.
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