Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2005 F350 - Truck Seemed Slow To Turn Over / Battery Dead


Nov 7, 2014

I bought a 2005 F350 in January of 2012. At the time of purchase, I noticed that the truck seemed slow to turn over. I talked the dealer into installing 2 new 750 CCA Ford batteries at the time of sale.

I have put less than 7,000 miles on the truck since the day I bought it. In August of 2012, I went to start the truck and the batteries were completely dead. I charged them, started the truck, and the next day the truck was dead again.

I took the batteries out, and took them to the dealer. They replaced both of them under warranty. They said that after they charged them, each tested at less than 85 CCA.

In July of 2013, the same thing happened. I used the truck one day, and then the next day the batteries were completely dead. I had them tested at the dealer, and the passenger side battery failed the test. The driver's side passed. They replaced the passenger side under warranty, again. This time, they also cleaned all battery / ground connections and tested the charging system. Everything passed.

Last week, I went to start the truck. Same thing again. Took the truck to the dealer, and both batteries, after charging, failed the test. They replaced both batteries under warranty.This time, on each battery, the dealer had written with yellow paint pen on the batteries AND on the radiator shroud "BATTERY NOT UNDER WARRANTY."

I asked the dealer about this, and they said that since they have replaced 5 batteries in the truck, and since it has 152,000 miles on it, the warranty is no longer valid. I argued that since they have checked the truck thoroughly, and found no issues with the charging system, they can't void the warranty like that.

So, what is the reason why the batteries would fail like that, and that frequently?

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Having problems with a slow drain on batteries? My truck wouldn't start after sitting for 5 days.

After recharging and starting it up once, I pulled the key, and disconnected the battery harness and checked for current on all the red wires in the harness. Only one drew current. I found the small red wire on the drivers side initially draws 470mA for 1 minute, then draws 22mA. In my experience in mobile audio, 22mA can drain a battery over several days.

Has anyone out there checked their 'dark current' draw? I have chased it all over and checked all the aftermarket add-ons and it comes down to something in the factory dash.

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I have a 2005 F350 6.0 PowerStroke, and I just did the head bolts upgrade to the ARP studs, new EGR cooler and a new stock turbo. Looks like everything came out good, no left over parts or unplugged connectors, all new fluids and fuel filters and oil filter. Did the priming of fuel and oil, the turbo. When it was ready to turn it on, I turned the motor by jumping the starter to build some oil pressure.

Now I turn the key to turn on the truck, it turns with no issues, it sound good, but it will not turn on.
Checked my batteries, they are fully charged, checked fluids, ok, checked oil pressure as I'm cranking it, it looks good.
It still does not turn on.
So, I jumped it with my friends Excursion, after a couple of tries, it TURNED ON.
Let it run for about 3 minutes then turned it off. It sound good just like it did before the upgrade, with an exhaust leak from the turbo.
Went to turn it on again, it turns but it will not start, jumped it again and it RUNS.
Now I let it run for about 30 minutes figured out where the exhaust leak was coming from.
Shut it off, Re seated exhaust pipe with leak, WENT TO TURN IT ON AND IT WILL TURN BUT WILL NOT RUN.

So what checks I can perform to start eliminating possible issues.....

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It's always worn the front tires weird but it's gotten a lot worse and it's happening in about 10-15 thousand miles now. It's wearing the tires on both sidewalls like under-inflation but I run 70 lbs in them. I've noticed for several years now that it makes a knocking sound and I feel it in the floorboard, shakes in the steering wheel when I turn to the left only in a corner at speed. (65-70) ...

Now it's started intermittently going into the death wobble at slow speeds like the caster is to negative on it. I'm sure it could use some shocks but I just rotated the tires and I felt no play anywhere. I know when we used to get that bumping in the floor board on older Fords it was a bad radius arm bushing but that couldn't be all of what's going on here. I've done searches on this and it has happened to others but I haven't found a resolution from any yet.

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