My 2008 F250 Super Duty is riding very, very rough. I put in new heavy duty Bilstien shocks 2 or 3 years ago, and I would think they would last longer than this.
Are they any other causes I can look at to see what is causing this truck to ride rough?
On a 2003 5.4 f-250 XLT 4 door, long bed
Running 285 tires, none lifted, factory lifted for snow plowing? Did have a plow mount when purchased used.
Had the truck over a year now & love it. My only real dislike is the stiff/ rough ride when empty, which is 80-90% of the time for me.
I know my truck & year have leaf springs with shock dampeners on the front, vs the coil spring and shock dampeners that came in the later years for a much improved ride. Also my struts are "Rough Country" which from what I understand are cheaper shocks. Had a 04 Tacoma I replaced with Bilstein 5100 shocks after leveling it & it was an amazing difference. So that's my only real comparison in shocks. I've read of guys replacing their entire front end for the coils & springs. Not interested in going that deep into it for a better ride. If that's my only option, all be happy with the ride as is.
What are my options if any? Better shocks/struts? Other than my rough country that are on the truck? Purchased used a year back & never felt the "stock struts".
I did find Bilstein 5160' s for my model truck. Link : [URL] .....
Im an outside sales rep and I drove 85k miles last year in a F-150. The time came where I needed a new company truck and now I'm in a 2015 F-250 2wd 6.2l lariat. I love the truck but my back is killing me. I've only had it a little over 3 weeks but it has over 6k miles on it. The majority of the time my bed is unloaded but there has been a few times my 1/2 ton was overloaded so i stepped up to a 3/4 ton. Ive tried lowering my tire pressure but the TPMS light comes on. I also bought sand bags to leave in the back of my truck to add weight to it when not loaded. Im about to pull the trigger on bilstein 5100s but was wondering of there is anything else I could do make the truck ride a little smoother.
View 14 Replies2008 F250 5.4L 150k. My truck has been driving pretty rough in low gears, rough idle, and today the check engine light came on then getting on the interstate the light started blinking. I ran the code it came back 0307,300,308,300. After doing some research on here, I've come to the conclusion to change out the coils on 7 & 8. Questions are, should I change plugs as well? And how important is it to keep all the boots (of all 8) the same color (brown or black)? And should I expect to change all the rest soon?
View 1 RepliesIt is about time to replace the shocks on my truck but I am going back and forth between shocks... I have 37s and the ride is rough to say the least I am looking for something to make it feel like I am not riding around on a jack hammer every time I hit a rock.
Dual set up in the front and single in the back and I have steering stabilizers installed.
I have a 2012 Ford F350 SRW 4x4 Diesel. Love the truck and has been great. I have 20" Tires and the ride on this truck is really rough. I know its now a Cadillac but to change tires or suspension components to get a smoother ride. I was thinking about going to 18" rims and getting a big all terrain tire. Maybe taking a leaf spring off in the rear. Going to air suspension. Different tires maybe. I dont need the load rating since i sold my fifth wheel.
View 13 RepliesHaving a somewhat scary problem.....my truck is already a rough ride due to the fabtech lift and the 37's and you get a lot of feedback through the steering wheel. Its a rough ride down the highway but where it gets scary is at lower than highway speeds like 35-45 range. I can hit a bump and it will send the trucl into this insane cavitation that will literally shale the fillings out of your teeth. I cannot tell if it is in the drive wheels or the front wheels. The best way I can describe it is that its like trying to push a buggy in wal mart with a bad caster wheel on it. It feels like you are about to have a wheel fall off or that its broken off a tie rod or something. Then you simply slow down to a stop and you can drive right on like nothing was wrong. The vibration or shaking does not slow down with the speed. I cannot find anything obvious broken or damaged but this thing is getting dangerous to drive.
05 F350 DRW Fabtech 6 inch lift and 37's. 114k miles.
I have an 2003 F250 7.3 Diesel 4wd. Yesterday I knew I was low on fuel but I don't think I ran out of diesel. My gauge was above the "E". 50 miles left on my overhead readout, but you never know. All of a sudden the truck misfires and is running very rough before it dies on me. I get it towed home.
Thinking that it possible I ran out of fuel and screwed up my fuel pump, I bought a new fuel pump and fuel filter, installed them and I have the same symptoms. I am guessing I lost my prime, who knows. I have 180,000 miles on it and haven't ever had engine problems.
I recently purchased a 1999 6.8L. Runs great when cold but after warming up the idle gets rough. Truck has new plugs and coil packs and fuel filter. Checked the fuel pressure and the idle is right at 30 psi. I read that the good pressure range is 30 to 45 psi. Is 30 psi acceptable or should I replace fuel pump or regulator? Any next step to solving my idle woes.
View 3 RepliesI am new to the v10 I only ever owned 7.3 this is my father truck it's a 99 with 200k on it. The problem is it will idle fine when cold but when it is warned up very ruff idle no codes and when I go back at the end of this week I will check the O2 sensor with AE but I really don't know much about it.
View 2 RepliesI bought it and changed the fuel filter and it was dirty. Then ran a tank of gas with seafoam and then with lucas fuel injector cleaner. Still nothing. It idles like its missing and as long as you are light on the pedal it revs up fine but if you're heavy on the throttle its. Its has no codes that's why I haven't replaced the coil packs and plugs but they have been ordered. I just thought there would be an engine code if any of the coils or plugs were bad. Looked for a vacuum leak but couldn't find any. The donut gasket on the pass side is bad would that cause it to run shifty with no code.
View 2 Replies2004 F250 V10, runs good until it warms up whether it's hot or cold outside. While on freeway, it really shakes while cruising, but of you get in the gas enough for a kick down, seems to be pretty smooth. I've changed the coils, and 9 plugs (one wouldn't budge, but the others I took out looked fine) to no effect. Where else should I look? Also, no CEL, and no codes, which seems odd as bad as it feels...
View 11 RepliesSo, my truck runs really rough when I am @1500 RPM and lightly feather the gas. I have replaced all coils and plugs. Used dielectric grease. Replaced air filter, replaced ICU, changed transmission fluid. The thing still "shudders" ... 2004 f250 5.4 ....
View 14 RepliesI have a 99 f250 5.4l 2v with 165000. just two weeks ago i went to start up the truck on a job site to take lunch and it was running really rough. I talked with a mechanic at my shop and he said that it sounded like the aic or that i needed plugs. I went and bought aic and plugs and installed them all in one day. I unhooked the battery before i did any work and have changed the coil packs about 3-4 months ago when it was jerking at highway speeds. I am at a loss.
Read so much on the site about could be this or that and cant afford to through money at it like the govt does. I replaced the ait(air intake temp sensor) and the ect(engine coolant sensor) after i got a code from oreillys that said p0113 which is high input on it. I have read it can be so many things and it seems to be running rich because i am getting about half of mileage i was getting before problem started. i need a fix soon as i must drive the truck to work everyday which is a 52 mile trip total.
I just bought this 99 f250 7.3 Powerstroke last week.. drove it all week fine, I car pool with a family member to work and asked his girlfriend to plug my truck in for me, well she didn't and it had stalled on the way home one morning but started up after cranking a few times i thought nothing of it. Drove it a little bit that day and it was fine, while I let it idle in my drive way as I prepared to go work it started running really rough then died. It took a long time to start again..now it's happening all the time. I changed the fuel filter and someones telling me there's air in the lines..
View 5 RepliesThis is my first diesel but my 4th Ford truck. The truck currently has 4000 miles on it. My first incident started at 500 miles when my windshield gasket or lack/loss of silicone on the upper gasket decided to go. This caused a tornado in my cab at 6 am blowing coffee out of my cup and literally atomizing it all over myself pretty much LMFAO. It sounded like a helicopter attack at 40mph when it went. Ended up being towed to the dealer for repair. At around 2k miles the truck started too stink, like exhaust and coolant maybe. I'm thinking it's the DEF or the left overs from a regen cycle (newbie). At 4K miles, it's getting worse. The cab almost feels like deicing in the plane on the runway, nothing but fumes. It literally blows in through my HVAC vents straight into the cab. I'm glad I own the company because I'd be afraid of getting a drug test when I got too work. Instant red eyes. It is not as bad while driving but starts up again at red lights etc. It's a handful of times a week it does this. Things I've checked, water separator, 0 water in diesel. I've tried different gas stations and different DEF brands. Nothing makes it better or worse. I've read that I'm not alone, God speeds too us skunk trucks.
View 14 RepliesI have an 02 f250 V10 with a rough idle (90K Miles). It's not horrible but it's obviously not running perfect. Everything seems ok when I am up and driving, especially at freeway speeds. I recently noticed that if the truck is in park and I run the RPM's to 1500 or 2K and quickly let off the gas it will die. It never throws any codes. So far I have replaced the IAC Valve, fuel filter, O2 Sensors, PCV valve, cleaned the MAF sensor and replaced the air filter. Plugs and boots were replaced 5K miles ago. Fuel trim levels on both banks are running around -3.1 to positive 3.5 based on what the computer is telling me. Also according to the computer the vacuum sits steady around 25 at idle (+ or - .2). I don't have a manual vacuum gauge, just relying on the computer. I've also gone around to every plug and disconnected both the injector wire and the COP wire and they all seem to equally affect the idle as well as the fuel trim levels.
View 11 RepliesI have an 02 f250 5.4. I just did the intake manifold. I also changed the spark plugs and the valve cover gasket. Following this I drained the oil and filled it with fresh oil.
It started right up but it felt like the engine was really vibrating and running rough. The check engine light than came on. I don't have one of those tools to diagnose it.
What could be wrong?
The 2003 F250 5.4 Superduty has no power and keeps stalling. If I floor the gas it just stalls. I've replaced the pcv valve and line, the fuel pump relay, the fuel pump, and cleaned the tank, changed out the gas, added Lucas, and it just won't run right. Desperate, and no codes are coming up...
View 5 RepliesMy truck has been doing this for a while now but it has progressively gotten worse from about three months ago when I went through some deep water. I don't believe it had to much to do with the water, I just think that the water is what didn't deal the situation and lead to the problem becoming more prevalent. But continuing, yesterday it got down into the high 20's and my engine started acting up (rumbling coughing, surging while at/leaving complete stops) and then it finally through a code for once and I head over to the neighborhood AutoZone expecting to get a lean code (because when the engine is acting up really badly I can unplug the fourth cylinder fuel injector without the engine acting any differently) but instead I received the p1152 (bank two lack of switching (rich)) code....
At this point I believe it is a faulty fuel pressure regulator, but without a good diagnostic obd2 reader or a fuel pressure gauge I'm not sure what to do. I'm currently in college, money is low, and I'm trying to take an accurate shot at the part that needs to be replaced so that I don't have to buy more than one part. Of course AutoZone says o2 sensor but I changed both about five months ago.. I've been chasing this diagnosis around for way too long now. (It's on a 2002 ford f250 5.4l super duty)
I have a 2002 F250 CCSB Lariat 4x4 with the Triton V10, I'm up to 232,000 miles so far and fairly happy with the old girl. Just this weekend, I noticed some hesitation when at idle and even more rough running when under slight load. The misfire/hesitation is worst when going up a slight hill, when the truck is accelerating at low RPMs.
I am getting zero trouble codes or freeze frame conditions on my scanner. What should be my order of diagnosis? Vacuum test at line from PCV to TB, COP test? EGR inspection? Plug inspection? Also, how do you test a coil if resistance is not a reliable method?