It is about time to replace the shocks on my truck but I am going back and forth between shocks... I have 37s and the ride is rough to say the least I am looking for something to make it feel like I am not riding around on a jack hammer every time I hit a rock.
Dual set up in the front and single in the back and I have steering stabilizers installed.
I have a 2012 F250 King Ranch with the FX4 package. I have a goose neck ball and have recently bought a 37' fifth wheel. The rear of my truck sits a touch lower than the front and anytime I'm hooked to a trailer it looks to be squatted way down. It actually is dropping maybe 3". I am looking to replace the shocks which are Rancho's as I have 55k miles on. I'm wondering about shock types, air bags, springs??? Just don't know what my best option is.
View 9 RepliesMy 2008 F250 Super Duty is riding very, very rough. I put in new heavy duty Bilstien shocks 2 or 3 years ago, and I would think they would last longer than this.
Are they any other causes I can look at to see what is causing this truck to ride rough?
I have a 2012 Ford F350 SRW 4x4 Diesel. Love the truck and has been great. I have 20" Tires and the ride on this truck is really rough. I know its now a Cadillac but to change tires or suspension components to get a smoother ride. I was thinking about going to 18" rims and getting a big all terrain tire. Maybe taking a leaf spring off in the rear. Going to air suspension. Different tires maybe. I dont need the load rating since i sold my fifth wheel.
View 13 RepliesOn a 2003 5.4 f-250 XLT 4 door, long bed
Running 285 tires, none lifted, factory lifted for snow plowing? Did have a plow mount when purchased used.
Had the truck over a year now & love it. My only real dislike is the stiff/ rough ride when empty, which is 80-90% of the time for me.
I know my truck & year have leaf springs with shock dampeners on the front, vs the coil spring and shock dampeners that came in the later years for a much improved ride. Also my struts are "Rough Country" which from what I understand are cheaper shocks. Had a 04 Tacoma I replaced with Bilstein 5100 shocks after leveling it & it was an amazing difference. So that's my only real comparison in shocks. I've read of guys replacing their entire front end for the coils & springs. Not interested in going that deep into it for a better ride. If that's my only option, all be happy with the ride as is.
What are my options if any? Better shocks/struts? Other than my rough country that are on the truck? Purchased used a year back & never felt the "stock struts".
I did find Bilstein 5160' s for my model truck. Link : [URL] .....
Im an outside sales rep and I drove 85k miles last year in a F-150. The time came where I needed a new company truck and now I'm in a 2015 F-250 2wd 6.2l lariat. I love the truck but my back is killing me. I've only had it a little over 3 weeks but it has over 6k miles on it. The majority of the time my bed is unloaded but there has been a few times my 1/2 ton was overloaded so i stepped up to a 3/4 ton. Ive tried lowering my tire pressure but the TPMS light comes on. I also bought sand bags to leave in the back of my truck to add weight to it when not loaded. Im about to pull the trigger on bilstein 5100s but was wondering of there is anything else I could do make the truck ride a little smoother.
View 14 RepliesHaving a somewhat scary problem.....my truck is already a rough ride due to the fabtech lift and the 37's and you get a lot of feedback through the steering wheel. Its a rough ride down the highway but where it gets scary is at lower than highway speeds like 35-45 range. I can hit a bump and it will send the trucl into this insane cavitation that will literally shale the fillings out of your teeth. I cannot tell if it is in the drive wheels or the front wheels. The best way I can describe it is that its like trying to push a buggy in wal mart with a bad caster wheel on it. It feels like you are about to have a wheel fall off or that its broken off a tie rod or something. Then you simply slow down to a stop and you can drive right on like nothing was wrong. The vibration or shaking does not slow down with the speed. I cannot find anything obvious broken or damaged but this thing is getting dangerous to drive.
05 F350 DRW Fabtech 6 inch lift and 37's. 114k miles.
My '99 was running rough - coughing/spitting/sputtering when under a load - especially at lower idle/rpms and going up inclines.
Brought to mechanic and he put it on "the scope" which told him the #1 pack was bad. Replaced. Got it back and it ran better, but, then went back to the coughing/sputtering.
Replaced the spark plugs - OEM Motorcrafts. Seemed perfect for a wee bit, now I notice an occasional cough/spit but all in all not bad.
Curious: was it foolish to not replace ALL coil packs at time of plugs or is it ...acceptable to do just the plugs and then come back and do packs if needed.
I need to replace the shocks and springs in my truck. I would like a stiffer ride something that doesn't bounce to much and offers better handling.
I have a 2004 4X4 Diesel Excursion
The car was purchased used with 18" wheels already on. After driving for about 6 months, I started noticing the road noise getting very loud. I took the car to a tire shop and they told me that there was some uneven cupping in the middle of the wheels, which is usually caused by worn out shocks making the wheel bounce up and down.
I replaced all 4 shocks, then replaced all 4 tires. Now its much more smooth than before, and is very silent on nicely paved roads. however, I notice when there's roads which any imperfections (like fixed streets with tar.. or uneven pavements, or when your tire hits the freeway markers to keep you in the lane) its heard very loud from inside the car and creates an almost *thud* sound when it does.
I assumed that the problem was that the car had 18" wheels. So recently I swapped the wheels out with stock 15" from Toyota, but somehow the road noise is still very apparent. I sat in a friend's Prius, same year, and I could tell that it was handling the uneven pavements much softer.
What could be the problem now? Is there anything else that needs to be replaced?
I bought this truck with only 15k miles and the ride is like riding in a low rider really bad every bump feels like there is no shocks. I rode in a rental truck 2010 F 150 and it was like going from a softail to a hard tail night and day.
It has always rode like this since I bought it I chalked it up to the wheels (22in) being so big. The wheels are the factory Harley Davidson 22in with brand new tires as of yesterday.
I want to know the best and cheapest way to get the best ride possible. Also maybe a ball park of how much this will cost I can not do the work so I will have to pay or wait till spring to do it myself.
Also wanted to explore air ride if it didnt cost way to much.
I just picked up a 14 F-250 with 6.2 engine. the shocks are leaking, and before I order new ones I want get opinions. I was looking at Bilstein 5100 series. 24-186025 for the rear, and 24-186018 for the front. are these the best, or should i get something else.
View 3 RepliesI just purchased 4 front and 2 rear Bilstein shocks for my F350 and will be installing them today, but my question is I have seen them mounted 2 ways (With the rubber boot up and also inverted) which is the correct way?
View 5 RepliesLast night was changing front driver's side shock on my 2011 F250 PSD. Right front wheel still on ground and needed to turn wheel to right to better access shock mount. Started truck and turned the wheel all the way to the right and took the key out thinking the wheel would lock and I could change the shock easier. But the wheel didn't lock and actually spun itself almost a full turn after I took the key out...I'm assuming because the right wheel was still on the ground providing resistance, but I think the wheel lock may have broken.
Finished the shock and went to start, but nothing. Everything is clicking and buzzing like normal but wouldn't turn over. Checked all fuses that seemed pertinent but none were bad. Wasn't able to check any relays. Gave up and was going to have it towed.
Son and I had to straighten the wheel so I could roll in down the driveway and the dang thing started after the wheel was straight! Thought it was a fluke and parked it. This morning did the same thing so I cranked the wheel to the right and it started again. Now at work and thought I better check again and I can't get it to start for anything. The steering wheel lock seems to be busted and now I'm thinking it could be something in the steering column, but this is a little above my pay grade.
Need to get home tonight and was hoping my description would be enough to make a for sure diagnosis. Otherwise its getting towed to the shop and I'd rather fix it myself if i can.
So went back out and tried starting in neutral again, but this time fiddled with the shifter while turning the key...nothing again. Ran it up into park and tried it again and it started! Last night and this morning I didn't mess at all with the shifter, just manually turned the wheel with the engine off. This is the first time moving the shifter worked and I didn't turn the wheel at all this last time.
I have a 2000 F350 that was once a work horse. Its now just my daily. The leaf springs in the rear have 2 broken on each on and the front need to be replaced due to 344K miles on them too. My question is how do I soften up my ride on leaf springs though? Theres a local shop that will do the work, but my rears have 7 leafs / front 2. It used to tow daily but I dont tow anything with it. could I go to 5 in the rear to soften it?
View 14 RepliesI'm completely aware a lifted truck will not ride factory and most likely ride harder. But this is ridiculous.
So I bought a 8" super lift for my F250 7.3 2000, although the price is very cheap at that shipped to my door debating if I have messed up either with the brand or somewhere because I feel like I went from a casual ride in my lovely 7.3 to feeling like a horse carriage of a few century's ago.
Lift is setup with lift leaf springs in the front, one add a leaf in the rear with a block, and 4 new shocks and all the other hardware included to do the lift.
I'm wondering if it's possible the springs are installed wrong, or the shocks are just that bad or if there a weird issue I've over looked.
Tire pressure is set to 35-40 psi all around on toyo open country mts, (which I was running before the lift so that hasn't changed) but I mean this is so stiff that when I hit a bump my steering wheel jerks and I feel like my suspension has absolutely no flex in it. Debating on returning to stock or not at this point...
Long story short, I need to replace the box on my 2008 F350. Do the boxes from '14-'15 models line up? I know the fuel door is different, but is the rest the same?
View 4 RepliesMy father's truck is still having power steering issues. After replacing the power steering pump I went from no power steering to power steering when I turn right but not when I turn left. So now I'm going to replace the Steering Gear Box. Where I can get step by step instructions on the best way to get to the gear box and how to get it out?
View 1 RepliesHow to replace the 2 "drop down" rubber brake lines on a '13 250. They appear to be secured to the bracket that looks like is the bracket that's holding the DEF tank on. And by the quick look without much digging in appears as though I have to take the DEF tank out or significantly loosen it to get at them. I'm no neophyte when it comes to this stuff and will take the DEF tank out of necessity, was just wondering.
View 1 RepliesThe key ring part of the fob for the keyless entry on the truck (2006 F250 V10) broke a while back. Finally got around to buyin a replacement only to realize that the keyless entry that came with the truck is not OEM. It's an Omega L2M 4410.
In trying to cycle locks to replace the fobs, the locks will not cycle. Tried everything that can be found on forums, youtube, etc. all to no avail. This leads me to believe that the aftermarket keyless was put on because there wasn't keyless from the factory.
I have experience with installing aftermarket systems, but this one stumps me - can't find where the system was installed in the first place. To me, this sounds like it should go to a shop for further investigation.
I recently bought an 05 F250 CC SB. One or more of the bed support rails is rusted and the front one (right behind the cab) is bad enough that I can move the bed up and down with my hand. I've read several threads on a few forums about replacing them and I'm wanting to do it myself.
One other thread I read on this forum (link) gives a pretty straightforward outline of how he successfully did it and even gives dimensions for the rails he made. I'm thinking of doing pretty much the same thing, but he didn't mention the gauge/thickness of metal that he used. I read about the Dorman replacement kit, but they don't mention gauge either.