Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2010 F250 Whistling Noise While Traveling About 70 Down The Freeway
Jan 19, 2016
I have a 2010 F250 extend cab 4x4. While traveling about 70 down the freeway I get a whistling noise. It is usually worse when the wind is blowing hard or behind a semi. Wind makes the noise louder so I assume the noise is coming from the air hitting something. Slow down to 50 and noise goes away. Do not think it is mechanical because when a gust hits the truck it is worse. Checked all the windows, windshield and rubber parts. Where I should look.
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I have a 2015 ford f250 xlt crew cab, 6.2, fx4 with about 1200 miles on it. My questions are, I have noticed a hissing or whistling noise while accelerating. I took to dealer and was told it was the throttle plates not closing all the way.I was told they all do this. Normal? Very annoying noise with windows down. Another noise I have been having is the brake pedal makes a popping noise while applying pressure to brakes. Dealer said brake pedal assembly was out of alignment. They said was out of alignment 1/8". After adjustment within a few days popping started again.
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I have a 2002 F250 with 189,000 miles. Im having some very bad issues that im trying to fix. The truck idles rough, with fluctuating RPM's. In certain speed reanges it also shakes and runs rough. If I turn the overdrive off the shaking pretty much stops, but it still accelerates pretty slowly. There is also a whistling noise from the front of the truck until the engine warms up, someone told me it sounds like a bad intake manifold? Does that sound right? What could be going on with my truck? All spark plugs and coil packs have been replaced, as well as the fuel injector rails.
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Just bought a 1999 7.3 f250 w/71000 miles and took it to a diesel guy and under load he said that the whistling was normal..is this correct?
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Have a Whistling or hissing sound while accelerating? My 2015 6.2 seems to make this sound while under load. I took to dealer and they claim its the throttle plates not closing all the way. Claims this is normal, but to me it is annoying. Just would like to know what others think.
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I have a 1990 F250 with a 7.5 liter and an E4OD. It starting acting up a couple months ago. Tranny would seemingly go into neutral while on freeway. I figured trans was going out... After reading several threads I've decided to try changing the mlps first, got a new one at the dealer!!!. It is the updated one with the connector on the top. I'm currently waiting on a new pigtail from autozone (the original is in bad shape, wires frayed, insulation missing. Also I think when it started having issues we were having some serious rains, which may have caused this connect to get wet.
I believe a previous owner may have had the trans rebuilt at some point. The connect has 6 wires going in it and when I trace those wires back, two are spliced into one farther up the harness a bit. Looks like one is tied into a wire that goes to the solenoid harness. I'm hoping I can cut and splice the 6 wires into the new pigtail and be good.
For now, while I was under there I decided to pull the solenoid plug as instructed to make access to mlps plug easier... the lock is on the backside almost impossible to get to, I messed the plug up all the way around, but not fubarred. When I pulled the plug out, it was soaked in transmission fluid... Is that normal?
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Ok, I know the problem is the blend door, but not which one. I hear a clicking constantly whether the truck is started or not near the center of the passenger side. I can adjust the temp to be 65-70 on the driver side and be fine, but the passenger side is hot. I've looked for TSB's for 2010 and have come up empty. I bought the truck used, and bought an extended warranty, but not sure it will cover this repair.
Is there a TSB for this? If you had this done at the dealer, how much did it cost to repair? Would you attempt the repair yourself? I've taken the dash apart to find the problem, but then determined it might be too involved for me to do and I wasn't comfortable disconnecting the air bags.....
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I have a 2012 F-250 crew cab 4x4 XL, 6.7L. I recently added a set of factory 20" wheels from a 2017 F-250 Lariat and put a set of new Nitto Ridge Grappler tires, 295/60/20, on the wheels. Since adding the new wheels tires, I've had a shake inside the cab when traveling between 70-75mph that we can't seem to pinpoint. It certainly feels like a balance issue, but we've road forced every wheel/tire and even had Nitto replace one tire that had a road force reading outside of the "normal" guidelines. Thought for sure that one tire was the issue, but installed last night and still the same issue. The shake is felt mostly in the front and rear seats. The passenger front seat shakes fairly vigorously. We've re-balanced all 4 wheels and tires, I've had the front end re-aligned, twice. I never had any issue with the factory wheels (which were the ford factory steel wheels 17"), even after adding larger tires. I can't imagine it's the new lighter aluminum wheels since people put on lighter after market wheels every day.
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On my 2006 4X4, I noticed a low pitched revolving dull scraping sound when I was traveling slowly. It was more noticeable on a hard left turn. The sound increased in speed as I drove faster and slower when I backed off. My brake pads are fine with 6 month old rotors. I suspect either a bad hub bearing or U-joint on it's way out. I have approx 114k on the clock and attach an 8ft plow for my driveway alone. What's the easiest way to check?
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I just bought a 2010 F250 with a 5.4. It is my 16 year old's 1st truck. He is pretty excited. Really nice truck that drives like a 2016. Anyway, it goes into 4wd fine and works fine. The hubs lock in. Everything works fine until you turn the switch to take it out of 4wd. The only thing that will take it out of 4wd is to back up and then turn the truck off and back on. Then it is fine. Both steps have to be done. I know the backing up part is normal, but what about turning the ignition switch on and off?
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I have a 2010 F250 super duty and I cannot figure out what is wrong with my 7 way for trailer lights. I have brake and turn signals but no tail lights. I have checked all fuses and relays and they are fine.
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My 2010 F250 V10 120000 mile has a sudden loss of MPG. It usually is around 12 MPG but now I'm at 8 I checked the air filter and its clean I checked the tire pressure and there all up to pressure. I'm probably going to try the fuel filter next.
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I've noticed during the winter my 2012 6.2L engine seems to 'whistle' when it is cold. It also seems to do it intermittently...that is, it always whistles when cold, but it might stop for 30 seconds and then do it again. It does it at idle, and also when driving, just until it warms up.
What is it, and do other people's trucks here do that? I was thinking maybe the engine fan, but why would it cycle on and off for maybe 30 seconds. My other thought was A/C pump.
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I have been trouble shooting a no crank no start issue for a couple years now. Been back to the dealer several times to no avail. Very long story, with all due respect, don't suggest that I go back to the dealer on this. Not happening. Every once in a while the truck would strand me with no crank no start. It would read trailer brake module fault. Sometimes the security light would flash and the alarm would sound. Recently, I have had it on IDS and noticed that while it was doing this, IDS had no communication to the ECU.
I checked IDS with my other truck and it had good communication with that ECU so I know the computer/IDS works. Pulled battery cables and checked all the fuses... checked ok. Went back in the truck tried it, still no crank. Left key on, popped hood to listen for fuel pump... nothing. Went to pop cover off the fuse block and as soon as I touched it the fuel pump started whining. Went back in the truck and it started. Plugged IDS back in and had good communication and read ECU. I googled around for a part number but came up empty.
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I just bought this Super Duty with a 5.4L engine. I want to do a fluid change on the transmission. From what I read, this transmission needs to be hot flushed in order to change out all the fluid. I have not called my dealer yet to see if they do hot flushes. If my local dealer does not have this machine, can I just drop the old fluid from the pan and be ok? I have not gotten under the truck yet to see if it has an external filter.
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I have a 2010 F250 with 154000km (96000 miles) that we bought last week. When I was looking it over during the purchase I noticed the front axle didn't lockup in "auto", in manual lock it seemed fine so I figured vacuum leak or something like that. Yesterday morning I was in the yard and got a little hung up in snow drifts so just got out, locked the hubs and switched to 4x4 and I think the front end didn't engage at all.
So later on I had it in the shop installing the two way radio and decided to check the front end out a little more thoroughly. Vacuum lines seem fine, hubs turn fine but I notice the axle shafts both move up and down almost a quarter inch, that seems excessively loose to me. I've been doing some research on the internet and it appears the front hubs are serviced as a unit, also some information seems to point to needle bearings within the actual locking hub mechanism itself?
So the questions:
1. Does that front axle shaft seem excessive? What are the specs?
2. Can I replace bearings and seals only or do these units come only as assemblies? Inner hub, outer hub units? Wheel bearings seem fine.
3. With that much play is there a chance the outer axle shafts are worn also?
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How to change my map light bulbs over the front seat of my new (to me) 2010 F250 King Ranch with a sunroof. I have tried to remove the whole assembly with a plastic trim tool with no success. I have pulled as hard as I dare and figure there must be a procedure I am missing. It appears to me that the whole assembly has to be pulled down.
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It seems that my 2010 F250 truck has come down with the dreaded death wobble. My truck is stock and has 63k miles. I was driving home today on a 2 lane side road and hit a few bumps that almost put me into the oncoming traffic. That sure did get my attention! I've been ready a lot on this site and wanted some opinions if replacing the stock steering stabilizer would fix my problem.
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My 2010 6.4 F250 seems has a loose steering wheel. The steering of the truck hasn't changed nor has there been uneven wear on the tires. It doesn't drift if I let the steering wheel go. Had the front end inspected and was told it's all good under there.
YET, my actual steering wheel is loose. I can grab the wheel and wiggle it front to back and side to side. It FEELS like the bolts that hold the steering wheel to the column are loose. What was the cause/repair? Is this something I can repair myself or a local shop? Or is this a dealer fix?
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I recently purchased a 2010 F250 Super Duty and would like to set a keypad code. I have looked every where I can think of except behind the radio.
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Where this box is located?
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