Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2015 - No Response To The Throttle At All
Dec 8, 2014
I have a 2015 SD with only 4100 miles on it. This has happened to me twice. Both times, traveling slowly at idle or just above. Anyway, tried to give it a little gas, and -----nothing. Lightly pumped the throttle a couple of quick times and back on line. The motor didn't die, but there was no response to the throttle at all. The first time, I thought maybe it was something I did. Then it doesn't happen for a month and a half and then again, in heavy traffic in the rain. Haven't had my first service yet, and you can bet I'll tell them about it. Almost felt like a two-stroke that had loaded up?
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Took delivery of my 2015 F250 in June with 2WD and the 6.2 gas engine. What I thought to be a slow throttle response seems to be more of a quick shifting transmission according to two different dealerships. My 6 speed automatic has already shifted to 4th gear at only 25-30 MPH. My Dodge Hemi I sold never had shifts as quick as this and I think it's to quick. My question is....is there a way to change these shift points so I get more speed before it shifts into the higher gears?
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My friend has a F250. He was getting terrible mileage and the mechanic he took it to replaced the intake gaskets. After that the mileage went to 12 and he was happy. Now its down to 6-8, just highway. It seems to me the throttle response is terrible compared to my dad's 01 V10. And it sounds terrible. Exhaust manifolds aren't leaking that I see.
I've got AE and have hooked it up, but I'm really not very familiar with these trucks. I don't get any codes that would relate to anything. Had one trans sensor code but that was about it. Key on engine running test didn't say anything.
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2005 f250 4x4 , crew cab v10. Just put on my magnaflow muffler and gotta say, What a difference that makes! Can't wait to get the k&n intake kit and see what that will do. I see that my truck has the electronic throttle control instead of the previous v10s with the cable. I am wondering, is there any way to get quicker throttle response like with the old cable style throttle? Just seems real sluggish to rap up the rpm in park with no load on it.
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I have a 2015 F250 with a 6.2L and want to clean my throttle body. I have done several before on other vehicles but, just figured I would ask before I just jump in there. Cleaning throttle body on their 6.2L?
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2002 Ford F350 Powerstroke, 7.3L, Automatic, 4 wheel drive .... AFE Stage II Intake, 5" full exhaust, TS 6-position tuner chip, Swamps 140lb injectors
Intermittent accelerator problem: no response, just goes to idle. Runs perfectly with no other issues but zero response when the accelerator it pressed. There seems to be no pattern to the problem as this happens at any speed/position on the pedal. When the accelerator goes out the check engine light in the lower left corner comes on. All fuses are good.
Symptoms began a month or so ago feeling like an occasional 'hiccup' or hesitation. Symptoms occurred a few more times until a couple of weeks ago (Friday, 2/20/15) when it left my son stranded a few miles from home. He was able to limp it to a parking lot and we left it over night and went and towed it back to the house the next morning. The truck started and ran fine just no accelerator so we towed it idling so we would have power steering/brakes, etc. As we neared the house the engine light went out and the accelerator began working and he was able to drive the truck the remaining 1/2 mile home.
Most all of the research I did came back with the Throttle Position Sensor as the culprit. I was able to order one (the complete accelerator pedal assembly that is*) at a Napa store in a nearby town and picked it up on Tuesday (2/24). As soon as I installed it everything worked fine.
As an aside, I have read a lot about the mid-2001 switch from the units with the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) and IVS (Idle Validation Switch) as separately connected units to the 'new' style where these parts are combined into one and there is a single 5-wire connector. Being a 2002 there was no question as to which one I had. Just be aware of the difference. Also, this part is simple to change. The connector has a clip that you pinch down on with your thumb and then pull off. I use my little electric impact with 1/4" extension and a 10mm socket. Zip, zip, zip an you're done. It takes me longer to get my tools out.
A few days later on Friday (2/27) it presented the sporadic accelerator symptom a couple of times again but was able to get the truck home. The next morning I unplugged, cleaned (CRC Contact Cleaner), and dabbed into the connector a small amount of dielectric grease to insure good connection. (I had read that in my research as well). That seemed to work beautifully and he said it ran fine all day and until the next afternoon (Sunday, 3/1) when it began acting up yet again.
I continued to research and could find nothing that would suggest anything other than the Throttle Position Sensor. I read that some other folks had gone through a few of the Napa/aftermarket units though so I began thinking that maybe I had just gotten a bad unit.
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I have a 2005 F250 5.4L 2wd. Parked the vehicle in my driveway and the next morning there was no response from the accelerator and the CEL light and the wrench light on. I pulled the codes and came up with codes P2104, P2107 and P2110. The KOEO code was P2122. I checked the wiring and connectors and all appear to be fine I replaced the throttle body and no change. I removed the accelerator pedal and tried it on another vehicle and it worked fine. I have power to pin 16 on the diagnostic port. After clearing the codes and rescanning the same codes come up immediately.
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2003 f250 4x4 7.3 auto
Been an ongoing problem with truck, pedal would sometimes lose all response. truck starts and idles fine but will not throttle up and all needles on the instrument cluster are at their rested position and the odometer doesn't even light up, however all the backlights still work fine.
The owner said that a 10 amp fuse on the bottom row of the fuse panel would occasionally blow, and that's when the pedal would go dead, he would replace it and keep driving till it blew again... usually about a week. I checked all fuses on the truck tonight and all are fine.
Unplugged the connector on the pedal sensor and cleaned and reinstalled and still wont throttle up. I am not sure what number the fuse was that he kept replacing but i *think* it was a cluster fuse. Is their an correlation between the cluster stopping the pedal sensor from working or vice versa?
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I need fixing my 2003 f350 6.0 diesel, I have been working on this truck for a while and still am having problems, here was the original symptoms:
-Hard start or no start on a sunny day
-Rough idle for 10-15 minutes
-Rough shaking in the low RPMs (35 mph)[/COLOR]
-Slow response from the gas pedal
-boost would only get to 14
My dad and I then did many things to the truck in the shop, those things are:
-Air test and replacement of coupling going into oil branches (next to HPOP)
-Replaced EGR valve (no good)
-Replaced ICP sensor (leaking oil)
-Replaced ICP sensor and IPR valve piggtails (due to frayed wires)
-Cleaned Turbo
-Cut MAP sensor hose and reattached it (spliced on the end)
-New battery
-Performed a bubble test and found two bad injectors on passenger side (injectors #5 and #7)
-Cleaned and lubed tops of injectors
-Replaced O rings and copper crush washers on all injectors
-Replaced nipple cup O rings (tight)
-Blew out injector cups
-Bubble tested after injectors put back in (no more bubbles)
-New FICM, EGR cooler and oil cooler were already installed
-Ohm'd main engine wiring harness (good to go)
-Taped up frayed wires on fan clutch connection
-Increased wire gauge on the positive jumper between both batteries
-Sanded each ground on the batteries and engine, cleaned battery clamps, lithium greased connection points.
-Checked fuel for air (no air)
-Checked fuel psi (85 psi, plenty)
-Oil changed
After doing all of this (diagnosing as we fixed each thing) we now fixed many things including the hard/no start problem. Now, for the first three to five minutes:
-It starts right up
-Runs perfectly, no shake and instant response from the gas pedal and turbo
-Boost goes to 28
-ICP is 800-950 on idle
-IPR is 25-26.9% closed
After five minutes however:
-Starts to shake
-IPR % starts to raise
-Received no response from gas pedal (absolutely no power)
This truck has been torn apart like 8 times and I have to do it on my spare time.
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What are the main differences between the F-350 and the F-450?
I see now that you can get the wide track front axle on the F-350 as well.
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2004 f250 6.0 4x4 no throttle at all, no cel, idles and runs just fine just no throttle, had a diesel mechanic look at it and he couldn't pull any codes, where to start, checked all wiring, checked connections, changed the EBP sensor and tube (read that was a fix multiple times) no change
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I have annoying problem with the car feeling flat while driving it braking into a corner then coming out of the corner I feel I get no response from the pedal unless I push it down further. While pushing down a little further it roars out of the corner. I have noticed it more now because of the icy roads when I have traction control turned off. Push pedal down slightly with no response, then push 1mm further and the tires spin slowly.
I performed my own test in neutral of the auto transmission. While idling at usual idle speed, push pedal slowly and stop, kept doing this a little further each time to see what the rpm was reading. Finally it went from Idle speed under 1000 rpm and shot up to over 3000 rpm? I tried this dozens of times and could not rev the engine to anything between idle speed and roughly 3 grand. Took to dealer "no codes" I believe this will affect fuel consumption.
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On my way into work this morning, all the warning lights came on, along with the check engine wrench. My display was showing that I was overheating and the gauges stopped working. While this was happening, there was no noticeable change in the way the truck was performing.
After about a minute or two, the warning lights shut off and the gauges worked again as normal. The gauges did not show that the truck was overheating at that time. Another few minutes went by and the same thing happened again. Then the gauges came on and the warning lights shut off for the second time, it did not happen again for my 10 minute ride to work. On my way home this evening, this did not happen again.
The truck seems to be charging and the battery seems to holding a large as well. The truck is a 2015 F350 XLT 6.2 with about 9700 miles on it.
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Recently bought a 2015 f250 xlt.....very impressed with it. Only thing is the wheel feel and look to small. What is the largest size i can run stock? Will 35/12.5 fit on stock 17 wheels or should i just spring for aftermarket rims at the same time? Also exhaust options for the 6.2? Remember, i need load range e!
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Just did my first oil change on my 2015 Super Duty 6.2 engine. I got the Fram filter the book called for, a PH-2. There's goobs of room for the longer filter. Would that be the PH8A? The book is about to trying to figure the comparable long vs short filter. Why do they insist on those short filters when a full size will fit? My Dodge Ram Hemi was the same way.
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I have a 2015 f250 extended cab, gas with 31000 miles. Its a work truck but its my day truck as well so lots of easy miles too. Checked the brakes today thinking it may be time for pads and found lots of grooves on all rotors, pads have lots of life yet. Is this common on the 2015? did ford give us low quality rotors? should I replace with less aggressive pads? I have had no braking problems, noise or pulsing. I thought I could put a second set of pads on the original rotors.
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I have a 06 f350 6.0. I'm losing hear at times. My temp gauge is right in the middle like always. As soon as I let off he throttle or come to a stop the heat turns cold and blows out cold air!
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OK, so I have the brake pedal downshifting, but there is no real exhaust brake. Can I have one installed, like the latter model 2015 or even the 2016, with the button?
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Hearing some static on my radio. Dealer said Ford aware of problem but nothing they could do. This was a couple of days ago. Just passed 36k. Have always owned Ford pickups but have always hated dealing with their service people. Hear it on satellite and FM. It slight but noticible.
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Just replaced my recently stolen tailgate. What are the dimensions for the King Ranch emblem location for a 2015?
Also, any way to tie the tailgate into the alarm system (similar to the way the hood is). I'm guessing that you could possibly tap into the wiring under the hood and add a switch/contact at the tailgate... Also, how would this interfere with engine immobilizer, etc?
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I have a 2015 F250, cc 4X4 PSD. It has 22,000 miles on it. I notice a small quarter sized drop of oil after it is parked by the right side front wheel. It is coming from behind the dust cover and universal joint where the axle goes into the tube. I dont know how long it has been leaking. My issue is I am about 800 miles from home on a camping trip, have to go back to work Monday, and lcoal dealer here can't take it in till next week. So, if the hubs are not locked and the truck is in 2 wheel drive, the gears shouldn't be turning right? I assume it is ok to drive home. I didn't want to pull the plug and check the fluid because if any runs out and leaves a stain on the cover, I don't want ford trying to deny warranty claiming I messed with it first.
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