Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 5R110 Started Flaring Between 3rd And 4th Gears
Jun 21, 2016
Started flaring between 3rd and 4th I changed the pressure solenoid and the direct clutch and no change. Flushed the tranny and changed filters and no change the oil is not burnt. When it flares it goes into a safe mode on the dash and will shift perfect through 4th gear no issues. I guess I've always know if it's bad it's bad but I don't understand why it works in a safe mode but slips in regular. Also if it is a bad tranny will a 3c2p-7000 work as a swap in my truck. 2008 6.4 4x4 ....
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I have a 2005 Ford 6.0L Diesel with the 5R110 transmission.
About a month ago, i started seeing some strange shifting issues with the transmission. While driving normally, it would suddenly hard shift (slam itself into gear), the entire truck would shake it shifted so hard. It would also cause the Tow/Haul indicator to start blinking. (my understanding is that the Tow/Haul light indicates an error code).
I drained/flushed the transmission, installed the larger pan/with the improved filter. I put Mercon LV back into the transmission (what type of fluid was in there before).
The problem still persists, and got a bit worse. The truck is almost un driveable at this point. Still getting Tow/Haul flashing messages. Can the error code be read by an standard ODB2 reader ?
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Iv got a 2003 6.0 stroke with 212k miles on it. Runs like a top. Done a slew of work from injectors to hpop, 2 alternators, intake, exhaust. NO tuner! Stock. Anyway recently I started the old girl up, warmed up a bit and shifted into reverse and truck did nothing. Went to drive and same thing. Held brake and revved it up and it dropped in gear. Shifts fine after that. No issues other than the occasional NO shift from park problem. Iv dropped pan and replaced all filters recently.
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All week the truck was acting like the clutch was slight depressed when first taking off and then today i was driving and the underside of truck started smoking like crazy and slowly lost all the gears could put it in any gear and nothing just was acting like it was being revved. does this mean clutch is bad?
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The truck belongs to a very good customer of mine and is a 05 f350sd 6.0 td with 5r110 torqshift tranny. The vehicle presents with these symptoms and codes....
-there is a delay from p to r and its intermittent, sometimes it will be in a weak reverse where it wont creep unless you give it some gas, sometimes it will hit reverse hard after this. sometimes it bangs reverse
-there is a delay into drive intermittently with the same symptoms as reverse where sometimes it bangs and sometimes it will take a little throttle to get it moving
-once the trans is hot (operating temperature) it has trouble downshifting. my solus tells me sometimes it tries to start off in 3 or 5 then sometimes it will bang back down into first and almost chirp tire with little throttle input
-tow haul light will flash after several miles and then it only has 1-2-3-4 no 5-6. then the starting off symptoms get worse
-throws codes for
p0766 shift sol d performance/stuck
p2701 friction element b apply time range/performance
p2703 friction element d apply time range/performance
p0700 trans control system fault.
So far the ideas i have are as follows
replace solenoid D
direct clutch replacement and seals for corresponding drum
torque converter replacement and pump replacement
harness rub through between pcm and transmission
The truck has had similar issues a year ago. Upon testing line pressure i found it was out of spec and replaced the epc. (electronic pressure control solenoid) and this cleared most of it up . I have had the pan down many times and the fluid has not been burnt and there is little debris in the pan. nothing i would consider beyond normal wear. Tomorrow I will be dropping the pan again to inspect the magnet and fluid as well as the condition of the harness. i will post my findings at that time. I am hoping between now and then some of you will be able to point out a few possibilities to get me on the right track.
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I have a 1999 F450 that was bought new as a cab and chassis. The truck belonged to my dad who passed away two years ago and now I have it. I am wondering if it has 4.30 or 4.88 gears. The rear end is huge! It has an aluminum cover with cooling fins on it, not sure if they both had that or not. I looked online and I think it said all cab and chassis had 4.88?
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I have a 1999 F-250 4X4 7.3 lit Diesel engine. My problem is my transmission will go into reverse great no problem but it won't go forward. I have no problem rebuilding the transmission if that's what it needs, I just want to make sure there isn't a electrical issue from the PCM first?
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I've got a 2003 350 7.3, with the zf6, approx 225000. I've been chasing a vibration that can be felt in the whole truck for quite a while. Feels like a wheel bearing danm near shot. But after replacing both wheel bearings and making over the whole front end it didn't go away. So I replaced the clutch and throw out bearing cause it was getting bad anyway. The vi ration is still there so I checked the harmonic balancer and it was bad so I replaced that. Still no dice. I know that it's coming from the trans, you can hear it in when jacked up and running in gear. Shifts fine in all gears. But the vibration/ clunking is there in all gears and it's getting bad. It feels like a bearing going out. Could it be input shaft bearing or pilot?
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I was plowing snow this morning when all of a sudden I had no 4x4. or should I say VERY little.
I clicked it in and out of 4wd to see if it would re-engage. and Nope. Nothing good. Got out and did a walk around, only to find that my passengers locking hub apparently decided it was a good day to run away from home. (Yes. It is now an empty hole )
Now, before we diagnose why, or where I should preface this by saying that I replaced the wheel hub a while back and the locker fell out after the replacement and had some not perfect gears on it. The locking ring was replaced but obviously that is the culprit somewhere.
So with that being said, I pushed the hub up into a VERY large snowpile someplace. Not exactly sure where and tearing it down is not an option with it's location without being able to re-stack it. (Directly on the side of a main road) So I figure I will just replace it.
So. here is the question. What should i replace it with. Of course this is one of those retarded auto lockers and manual options that seem to work when they want. and ONLY when they want, unless of course they are set to lock.
Should I just get a regular hub? Or is there really a benefit to the Warn replacement kit.
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I was driving down the highway and the truck was in overdrive and under a load passing at about 20lbs boost and all of the sudden I lost all power, felt truck shake a little. The tow/haul light is flashing and got only one code P0730. The truck won't go into gear in either forward or reverse now, had it towed home and put a pressure gauge on it and found about 100psi at idle In neutral, in reverse and forward I got strange readings the pressure goes way up momentarily then down to 100psi, and increments back up to over 500 psi and seems to stay there but neither forward or reverse engage. I have no clue what could be wrong at this point. I am attaching a video .....
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I was driving on the highway last night when it was like somebody dropped my transmission into neutral. I was cruising at 50mph slight hill. There was no noise or any thing. Now I have nothing.
It's a 2005 f350 4x4 automatic
I can only assume I'll be needing a new transmission but I am hopeful of a small problem...
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This is an early 99 f250 powerstroke 6spd manual 4wd, is it common or normal to hear a lot of transmission rattle at low rpm especially in lower gears under a load. Starting off from a dead stop it sounds awful until about 1500 rpm where it clears up (or load is reduced). I'm hoping it's just the power pulses going through splined shafts, gears, etc.
210k on the truck, just changed every fluid in it.
I've been a honda owner and mechanic for all of my driving years where shifting at 8500 rpm is common and now I'm having a hard time learning what this thing likes, rpm ranges to avoid, ect; even shifting I find difficult. At least you can heel toe with the pedal arrangement...
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2002 f350 7.3 ... problems started all of a sudden one day. I have an edge evolution tuner in my stroke. I have it set to make all of my shifts firm. One day it started shifting really sluggish between 1st and 2nd gears only. It don't do it all the time, but it does it more often then it doesn't. I have also noticed when i come to a complete stop and then start out again it seems that it doesn't downshift all the way back to first and when i hit the gas it seems to kinda be stuck between gears and it barely moves until i get the rpms up before it will ease its way into 2nd and the converter locks up.
It shifts a through all the other gears just fine nice and firm like it should, its just the shift between 1st and 2nd. Im wondering if maybe it might be the speed sensors or maybe the tranny filter is getting clogged up? The fluid in it is still nice and red and up to the level it should be. I just bought the truck in october and the fluid was nice and red when i bought it, but who knows if they changed the filter. I have had NO tranny problems with it up until a few days ago when this little problem started.
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Was driving my 2000 Ford F-350 stopped transmission would not move no more there was no noises no nothing just stopped pulling no gears nothing only Park works...
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2008 F250 5.4L 150k. My truck has been driving pretty rough in low gears, rough idle, and today the check engine light came on then getting on the interstate the light started blinking. I ran the code it came back 0307,300,308,300. After doing some research on here, I've come to the conclusion to change out the coils on 7 & 8. Questions are, should I change plugs as well? And how important is it to keep all the boots (of all 8) the same color (brown or black)? And should I expect to change all the rest soon?
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2002 sd 7.3 4x4. When I start up engine and put truck in any gear I get nothing but the ugly clicking sound when I shift back into park. Turn off engine and restart, everything works as normal. Doesn't do it every time 4-8 normal start ups then a bad one. Brought it to a tranny guy, head scratcher for him. Any other solution before I start changing parts?
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So I have a 1995 f-250 4x4 with the 460 and a E4od. So when I bought the truck I drive it two hours home and when I got into town it started shifting really hard and searching for gears. So I flushed it and installed a new oil filter because the oil in it was brown. Very brown. And smelled awful. So it shifts good, but what's happening now is that it shifts good in drive when it wants to.
In the morning it works great but when I get in it to leave after school it shifts really late (around 2900 rpm) and hard. So I put it in first and then into second but when it's time for third and I put it in drive it shifts back to first. But if I stop shut it off for a few minutes and turn it back on it works fine. It only does this after it's been sitting in the school parking lot all day. I replaced the mlps but not the connector due to I didn't have time at the moment. Could it be the tps? Something mechanical?
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On the surface, the F-250/350 seems to have great brakes: big rotors, vented front and rear, and dual-piston calipers front and rear. But, I have two problems:
One is the annoying 'grunt' the brakes make every time you change from Park to Drive, or Park to Reverse, or Drive to Reverse. Its as if under normal brake pressure, the brakes cannot hold the truck from moving against the torque convertor engaging. It's not just my truck, I've heard older SD's with the 5.4L or diesel do this too. If you push the pedal really hard, it won't grunt.
The second problem I think is the root of the first: mushy brakes. Maybe I'm just used to driving european cars with firm brakes, but every time I apply my truck's brakes, it feels like I need to bleed the system! The truck does slow pretty well, and I realize it's heavy, but how can the pedal feel be improved? Maybe replacing the rubber sections with braided stainless?
Lastly, the truck has a 'hill-hold' feature which is retarded in an automatic transmission. My problem with it, is that sometimes it sticks on...engage drive, the truck won't move...a second later its like something gets unstuck and the truck kind of lurches forward.
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I have a 2006 f250 5.4 4wd with 5r110w trans. Check engine light was blinking and then one day the tranny just stopped working in all gears. Engine code p0751 came up, shift solenoid "A". Changed it, code went away and still no gears. Checked pump pressure, good in all gears, all I can think of now is TCM....
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My buddy's 2001 7.3L F350 has had 3 transmissions. Rebuilt and used. Once the new trans is in he goes like 15 miles and then is starts shifting hard and grinding gears. What this could be?
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My 1999 f250 superduty with the 5.4 was sitting in front of my house, and started all by itseft, did not have keys in it either and the doors were locked. I ran out thinking someone was stealing it but nope,? As far as I know it does not have a remote start either,i have owned it for the last two years and it has never happened before. It is a lariant edition also .
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