My 1999 f250 superduty with the 5.4 was sitting in front of my house, and started all by itseft, did not have keys in it either and the doors were locked. I ran out thinking someone was stealing it but nope,? As far as I know it does not have a remote start either,i have owned it for the last two years and it has never happened before. It is a lariant edition also .
View 14 RepliesI was driving and all of a sudden the radio died, battery light came on, Power windows and interior lights died, gauges died speedometer went all the way up to 100. The Head lights, turn signals and heater work. When I got home I opened the hood and the battery was boiling.
View 14 RepliesMy 2000 F250 SD 5.4 AWD's A/C wouldn't blow cold suddenly the other day. I confirmed the A/C relay (engine compartment, 3rd down from firewall)was "clicking" but compressor clutch was obviously not engaging with dash switch on Max A/C and engine running. When I take of the 2 wire connector to compressor to see if it is getting power, the truck won't start..if I disconnect the A/C compressor plug while running, the engine similarly quits. I have never had another vehicle do this on me before..I could unplug the compressor on my Jeep GC, for instance, measure 12+ volts with A/C ON w/car running and no problem with Jeep engine turning off.
I have searched for A/C wiring schematic w/o success. I checked every fuse in cab/engine for continuity since I don't know which ones might deal with A/C..jumped hi/lo pressure switch connectors with engine running/A/C ON w/o compressor clutch engaging. Clutch turns easily, have banged it a few times, and air gap looks good. More bizarrerly, I hooked the compressor to a 12V/ground via its 2 male prongs and didn't get the clutch to engage.
My 'new' 2004 F250 ExtCab SB w/5.4L sometimes 'drops' my keyless entry (key fob) for no apparent reason. Also, when I attempt to do the 'eight turns' of the ignition to get into program mode, it doesn't always work the first time (or second, or third, etc). Is this a common problem?
View 5 RepliesMy 1999 F250 V10 has started to lose power off and on. It will run fine then when I stop at a light or sign, then when I take off it runs like I pulling something heavy. If I stop again it goes back to normal sometimes. 161000 miles. No check engine light is on. Motor idles perfect and sounds great. I don't know anything about motors...
View 4 RepliesI have a ford f250 with a 5.4l 2v engine and lately it started to shake when it idles. i have changed all the ignition coils and spark plugs, the injector are fine, but i cant seem to pinpoint the problem. the weird thing is that there are no codes. the fuel trim on bank 1 is around -8 and bank 2 is at almost positive 20 and higher.
View 14 RepliesMy 2008 250 suddenly lost ability to adjust temp control of heat and A/C. I can adjust the fan speed and the defrost/dash vents/foot heater position controls, but no matter how far I turn the cold/hot dial left or right, the temp is the same. Even in the Max and Norm A/C setting, it's the same temp, which is stuck in the hot range.
View 10 RepliesMy F250 with V10 has developed an overheating problem. While driving, the temp gauge suddenly shoots to max, and the truck goes into limp mode. Turning off the truck and ignition, waiting a few minutes, and all seems to be well again - sometimes for only a minute, sometimes for several days. No steam leaking, the water in the reservoir seems to be normal temperature, the radiator is not overly hot, and the AC keeps on blowing ice cold. Me thinks it is not really overheating, it just thinks it is. So where to start? Change the temp sensor first, or the thermostat? It seems the hoses are fairly firm, I don't believe they are collapsing from suction.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2001 f250 superduty 7.3L diesel and my air conditioner just randomly started blowing HOT south texas air. I tried to recharge it with refrigerant but the gauge said that it was over charged as soon as I plugged it into the low side port. What is wrong???
View 5 Replies2003 f250 5.4 86000 miles. When I start the truck, "especially after it sits a day or more" it starts to fast "Rushes". Like the gas pedal is all the way to the floor. I have taken it to the Ford dealer and they say they can find nothing wrong. They say all fords start up fast but I know this cannot be right. If I start it and let it run awhile then start it again it starts much slower. It only rushes like that a second or two and slows down. Today I noticed that when it started all the gauges pegged out. The speed indicator went up past 100mph sitting still in park. Then they all dropped down to zero then back to where they should be.
View 3 RepliesI was driving my 99 f250 superduty and out of no where it sounded like i had blown a tire started to shake for at least 3 or 4 seconds pulled to the side of the road got out and check tires were good, got back on the road with no more problem.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 Ford F250 Superduty with a 7.3 diesel. Brakes started sticking on it. I replaced all the calipers cause the boots were starting to crack but not leaking. All four brakes are still sticking. I can drive a little ways and then the brake peddle feels funny and they start dragging all four. I can loosen the bleeder and brake fluid will spray out and release the brakes for awhile.
View 4 RepliesSo out of nowhere, my tranny started over heating. Got up to 210. It usually runs in the 140-150 range. I have the 6.0 cooler, and 7500 miles on the synthetic fluid. My cooler lines to the radiator were ice cold. I crimped my bypass and this seemed to fix it a little (I know this is a no no), I did the flow test before driving it and it passed. It seems to heat up the most at stop lights in gear. It drives fine, no slipping, no chattering. I also dropped the pan, had some stuff on the magnet, replaced the filter too. It doesn't seem to heat up as bad now, goes to about 190. I will install the new bypass tomorrow when it comes in from the ford dealer. Whats causing the heat? BTW truck has a 4" lift with 35's no other mods.
View 4 RepliesI have a 99' f250 I purchased a few months ago. Here's what happened. Today I was driving down the road and it started to surge. I pulled over and shut the truck off. When I went to start it, the motor turned over slow for a sec and then clicked. When I put a jump pack to it, it fired up. I took it home with the jumper still hooked to it and checked voltage. The alternator was throwing 33.4 volts!! I went to the auto parts store and bought a new battery and alternator. Now the battery shows 11.7 volts steady. The alternator still reads 33.4. Also, if I unplug the positive lead while it's running, the truck shuts off. And one more thing. If the key is off and I reconnect the positive lead, I can hear the fuel rail pressurize. What is going on? I hate electrical gremlins.
View 6 RepliesMy 07 has developed a steering gear issue.....it suddenly developed about a quarter to a half turn of slop......mechanic checked the front end and found everything to be tight and right so......I ordered a Redhead rebuilt box and will replace it upon it's arrival. My question is How often do these boxes go bad and if and when they do is it at all safe to drive the vehicle with that much play? I have to drive it about 15 miles to get to my mechanic ( far too cold for me to do it at home) and I also plow a couple of yards commercially and will need to use it there in the event of a snow storm.
View 8 RepliesMy v10 has a cold miss when i start it in the morning no matter what the temp. It misses until it gets up to operating temp.then it runs fine all day with a slight miss.
- Changed plugs,
- Changed pcv,
- Changed iacv,
- Cleaned map sensor,
- Changed tube to pcv,
No codes. Its running as if it had a carb and the choke is closed. No smoke, tach. idles between 750 down to about 500, until it warms up then tach. Stays steady.
I am new to being an F250 owner. Just recently purchased a 2000 F250 SD 4x4 with the 5.4 and a 5 speed trans. Got a pretty good deal on it, because I knew some work had to be put into it, and do plan on dropping the trans. Currently, if the truck has been sitting for a little bit, not cool, but not running for a little bit, when I start it, whether it is in gear or in neutral, there is a noise coming from what seems to be the clutch area.
After a couple minutes of driving, this noise goes away and all sounds as it should. A little bit of researching turned up the possibility of the throw out bearing being bad, however, I found other posts online that doubt this. Another symptom that I assume is connected is that if I go to put it in reverse at 0mph from neutral, it grinds.
In order to go into reverse, I have to press in the clutch, put it in first, then put it in reverse, at which point it goes in no problem. I had already planned on replacing the clutch because it seems to me that would be the logical choice as to where the problem originates, so no issue there. But perhaps I'm wrong??
Experiencing a melt down with one of my trucks. One of our trucks is an 06 F250 SD with 80k on a 5.4L and the other day the tow/haul light started to flash. I took it to a buddy's repair shop (who is an experienced Ford tech and tranny guy) any way, it shifted fine until about the last 1/2 mile before I got to his shop, then it started shifting in and out of different gears. He found solenoid "A" pressure solenoid failure and one other solenoid failure, he replaced all 7 solenoids and also found the pigtail from the transmission to the wire harness bad as well and replaced that. I pick it up and get about a mile down the road and the light starts to flash again so I took it back, he ran his scanner and now found something with the coast clutch and through all his testing it told him the coast clutch needs replaced. He removed the trans. and tore it all down and found nothing wrong with anything, in fact he said everything looked in great shape and thinks the pcm failed.
View 12 RepliesDriving to work the other day my transmission shifted down and the transmission light started blinking. It felt like it geared down like it was in 4x4 I was doing about 55 at about 2600 RPMs. This has happened twice now and lasted around 2 minutes then stopped and ran great.
View 2 RepliesI was driving my 97 F250 2wd the other day and it started blowing steam out the tail pipe. In recent months I have replaced the thermostat, heater core, and pressure cap on the reserve tank. I do believe I have blown a head gasket. I did check my oil fill cap and it showed signs of milky residue..
The motor in trouble here is the 4.6L gas. And I have yet to talk with my mechanic I had the thought to replace this one as it has over 330K kilometres on it. I wonder if a newer 4.6 from a similar F150 or F250 would have the same motor mounts. No, I am not looking at brand new as my budget isn't that of a millionaire. I have found a few younger 4.6 motors within my budget.
Question, my truck started to have a miss under normal acceleration, when I really get on it, it clears up? I also noticed a bad sulfer smell at idle. Im thinking the cat is possibly plugged? Truck had 172000ish on it, and the cat is original. I did do a big tune up this past fall, new plugs, coil packs, air and fuel filter. Should I put a new cat on it? And a new oxygen sensor?
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