I have a 2001 f250 superduty 7.3L diesel and my air conditioner just randomly started blowing HOT south texas air. I tried to recharge it with refrigerant but the gauge said that it was over charged as soon as I plugged it into the low side port. What is wrong???
View 5 RepliesI was driving my 97 F250 2wd the other day and it started blowing steam out the tail pipe. In recent months I have replaced the thermostat, heater core, and pressure cap on the reserve tank. I do believe I have blown a head gasket. I did check my oil fill cap and it showed signs of milky residue..
The motor in trouble here is the 4.6L gas. And I have yet to talk with my mechanic I had the thought to replace this one as it has over 330K kilometres on it. I wonder if a newer 4.6 from a similar F150 or F250 would have the same motor mounts. No, I am not looking at brand new as my budget isn't that of a millionaire. I have found a few younger 4.6 motors within my budget.
I have an 01 f250 5.4l standard. #19 fuse keeps blowing. I hAve taken the gauge cluster out and do not see any wires melted or burned. It blows the fuse as soon as I turn the key over. I have read things saying the overdrive but that doesn't work with mine.
View 4 Replies2001 F250 5.4. The heater will blow warm air at idle and on the second highest setting, once you start moving or turn the fan up to full blast it instantly cools off. The coolant level is fine. The engine runs at a normal temp.The blend door does work. I just replaced the thermostat, and both hoses for the heater core are hot.
View 4 Replies2001 F250. My drivers side seat belt buckle randomly releases and it's getting worse. Any sources on a new one or used even. Also, what other vehicles may have the same part number if I go used.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2001 f250 super duty extended cab with the v10. Over the past week it has been running fine and it will all of a sudden lose power and dies. I've been able to start it back up once right away and a few times it started up after a few hours of messing with it.
So, after the truck dies it will crank and crank but will not start. We have checked fuel pressure and nothing. Then we applied direct current to the fuel pump and it turns on. Then we applied direct current to the fuel pump slot in the fuse box and got a fuel pressure reading of 40 psi. But when we crank we have no pressure.
When we apply direct current to the fuel pump slot in the fuse box the truck will only crank and not start.
So out of nowhere, my tranny started over heating. Got up to 210. It usually runs in the 140-150 range. I have the 6.0 cooler, and 7500 miles on the synthetic fluid. My cooler lines to the radiator were ice cold. I crimped my bypass and this seemed to fix it a little (I know this is a no no), I did the flow test before driving it and it passed. It seems to heat up the most at stop lights in gear. It drives fine, no slipping, no chattering. I also dropped the pan, had some stuff on the magnet, replaced the filter too. It doesn't seem to heat up as bad now, goes to about 190. I will install the new bypass tomorrow when it comes in from the ford dealer. Whats causing the heat? BTW truck has a 4" lift with 35's no other mods.
View 4 RepliesThe truck is in my Sig 01 F250 5.4
Just got back from a long trip with it. Parked it for 3 days, all was running fine. Went to dinner Sat night and all was great, left the restaurant and as soon as I started the engine I noticed a slight vibration. As soon as I hit 42 miles per hour, it started shaking pretty good. I pulled over and checked under the truck to make sure I did not have anything I was not supposed to hanging down.
Driveshaft looked good, nothing leaking from rear end or tranny. When it does vibrate, the Tach shows the unhappiness as well. This a.m. driving to work it was vibrating at all speeds and shifting was very rough, had a hard time deciding if it wanted to be in second or third gear. I don't think this is drive train issue... When it shutters and sputters at 40ish MPH, its almost like it loses power and I have to let off the gas. and then under power it shakes badly.
I had the super chip settings for performance tow when this started and then I changed it back to stock settings, thinking it might work, which it only got worse. Changing the settings with the Superchip you have to disable the fuel system and I do this by pulling the fuel pump fuse under the hood in the power distro box.
I think the ujoints are still good, the oil and tranny fluid are spot on. Hubs are locked but in 2WD. Had all the front end replaced 15K miles ago. Brand new tires and wheels in Sept, front end alignment done at same time, front brakes were 90% and rear brakes at 20%.
1999 f250 5.4L... Its done this 3 or 4 times now. Driving and it starts pulling to the right pretty bad, almost like if the front passenger tire was messed up or something. Today it did it, after I let it sit for a few min, then drove back to the house, it drove straight. Also, when it pulls to the right, its very sluggish, as if I'm pulling a very heavy load. From a stop, it doesn't even go until I hit the gas, and at that its very sluggish, sorts feels like if you drive off and forget the ebrake is on.
Also I've noticed some burning on the passenger side which I've read is probably the head gasket. I can see the oil dripping on the exhaust, causing the smoke. Also, my CEL just came on, with code P0401 "powertrain exhaust gas recirculation flow insufficient detected". Recently changed the plugs because it was running and idling a little rough.
At this point in wondering if the pulling issue could be something with the brakes, when I'm driving, it sounds like something is rubbing, I haven't looked at the brakes yet but I'm likely going to do new pads and rotors all around soon anyways.
So I was driving my 2004 6.0 auto on the freeway today when the tow haul light randomly started flashing, nothing felt wrong until I stopped, then when I went to pull away it wouldn't shift down from 5th according to my livewire ts says under the commanded gear gauge. It shifts into 6 and overdrive fine. I turned the truck off, the light went off but as soon as I put it in drive it jumped around from 1-2-5 and back down until it locked in 5 again and the light started flashing again. What this could be?
View 1 Replies1999 F250 7.3 4x4 switch on dash with manual hubs. No visual vacuum hoses cracked.
Not sure what this component is but when I wiggle the wire at the orange cap a small motor kicks on.
I have randomly getting in my sd. It is an 08 f250 xl with a 5.4. randomly my truck chime at me, hence why I haven't been able to capture it on video. It will chime twice. The sound is a subtle bong, bong. It is never predictable and never affects anything, but is annoying and I am curious as to why it does it.
View 14 RepliesThe A/C on my 05 F250 6.0 recently would not blow out through the vents. So, I replaced the vacuum pump and the reservoir tank. Once I replaced them the A/C still starts through the defrost vents but, after a minute or so starts to blow through the vents. I also noticed that the vacuum pump never stops running. Is this normal or is there something else I need to look for?
View 5 RepliesGot a 99 V10 blowing a lot of oil out of the exhaust pipe, to the point where I could fog the neighborhood, cylinder number 10 had original spark plug dirt down in the hole know one wanted to clean it out so I did put new plug and coil now smokes a lot, also truck has 173559 miles, did a half diesel half used motor oil flush tonight, wanted to go for 15 minutes only made it to 14 to much smoke, will put fresh oil in tomorrow, what could be the problem, piston ring blow by, intake manifold leak, burning what I think is oil could be coolant, head gasket no bubbles in oil or antifreeze and antifreeze and or oil are not mixing. Is it easier to pull the heads off with pulling the motor which looks fairly easy or leave it in the truck.
View 2 RepliesI have 2005 F250 6.0 XLT. I was driving the other night and all of a sudden my dash lights went out. I noticed I was being flashed from other drivers and discovered that my parking lights are not working. A preliminary check of fuses I discovered fuse #17 (15a mini) was blown. I installed and new one and upon turning my lights on, the fuse popped again. My headlights and turn signals work properly. It appears I have a wire shorted to ground somewhere on this circuit.
The truck is completely stock with the exception of an aftermarket radio which I installed two years ago.
I checked all the fuses with my test light and they are all correct (both sides of each fuse). I disconnected the gray connector and black connector in the driver side rear of the truck to isolate the issue. New fuse pops as soon as I turn lights on. I completely removed the tail lights, trailer 7 pin connector , completely removed both headlights. I did not disconnect the roof running lights or the mirror lights. I am completely stumped.
I have (2) 2014 f250's both have given the trailer disconnected message randomly from the day they were new. Dealer says everything is with in specification. I just live with it now but something must be wrong with the design. Only does it when no trailer is connected an might be worse when it rains. Might have to hit the ok button every 10 minutes so on bad days.
View 14 RepliesMy 2004 F250 has been having issues with the radio. Its been randomly changing stations and volume. I think its due to moisture in the dash. Its stops when I run the heater thru the dash vents.
View 1 RepliesI have an 06 F 250. Recently my gauges and radio have been randomly turning off then back on when I am driving down the road. How I can fix this????
View 3 RepliesMy 1999 f250 superduty with the 5.4 was sitting in front of my house, and started all by itseft, did not have keys in it either and the doors were locked. I ran out thinking someone was stealing it but nope,? As far as I know it does not have a remote start either,i have owned it for the last two years and it has never happened before. It is a lariant edition also .
View 14 RepliesMy 2005 F-250 6.0 liter Diesel FX4 Lariat is blowing AC through defrost only all the time. I have manual locking hubs and when I engage 4x4 it works perfectly through the ESOF switch. So I am assuming the vacuum pump and lines to the hubs are in good working order but there is possibly a cracked line or fuse blown? I've only had the truck for 2 days and it just happened after purchase. I'm a little unfamiliar with checking vacuum but have done reading and I believe I can do it. I am going to get a manual hand pump and pump to 20lbs and loss shouldn't exceed 1lb per minute. I just need to know which direction to look. Everyone else had their 4x4 not working and I seem to be the only one posting that has ESOF 4x4 capability when the defrost only issue is on.
View 11 RepliesJust bought a used 15 F-250 with 57,000 miles, yesterday tried to start it and nothing happened. Checked the starter fuse and it was blown, replaced it and it immediately blew when i tried to start the truck. Pulled the starter and had it tested and it was good, replaced the relay and still blowing fuses. I have got it to start a couple of times but as soon as you kill the engine and try to restart it blows the fuse. What was the fix? Truck had no problems trying to start before this problem started.....
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