Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: F250 Pulling To The Right Randomly?
Jul 17, 2014
1999 f250 5.4L... Its done this 3 or 4 times now. Driving and it starts pulling to the right pretty bad, almost like if the front passenger tire was messed up or something. Today it did it, after I let it sit for a few min, then drove back to the house, it drove straight. Also, when it pulls to the right, its very sluggish, as if I'm pulling a very heavy load. From a stop, it doesn't even go until I hit the gas, and at that its very sluggish, sorts feels like if you drive off and forget the ebrake is on.
Also I've noticed some burning on the passenger side which I've read is probably the head gasket. I can see the oil dripping on the exhaust, causing the smoke. Also, my CEL just came on, with code P0401 "powertrain exhaust gas recirculation flow insufficient detected". Recently changed the plugs because it was running and idling a little rough.
At this point in wondering if the pulling issue could be something with the brakes, when I'm driving, it sounds like something is rubbing, I haven't looked at the brakes yet but I'm likely going to do new pads and rotors all around soon anyways.
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I'm working on my brothers 99 f250 super duty 2wd. The truck pulls to the right. Here's the list of things I've changed and checked
1. Gear box
2. Tie rods
3. Ball joints (aligned)
4. New bearings and seals
5. Brake rotors and calipers. Front and rear.
6. Rotated tires front to back
7. Rotated tires in cris cross pattern
8. 4 new tires (factory size tires)
9. Rebalanced tires
10. Aligned for a third time.
And the truck still pulls right. What is causing this!
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So the other day 2/3/2014 my dad and I went out during the snow storm for the people that needed assistance. That day I pulled a 95' RWD dually with a 4 car open trailer and pushed 4 people from one location. Then after I went to assist the tractor trailer driver. My truck is a 2002 F250 super duty 5.4L with 4:10 gears. I got him unstuck then pulled him a 1/2 mile up a hill.
Pulling a stuck semi out of the snow - YouTube .....
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My husband and I bought a 09 f-250 with 58000 miles. It used to pull our travel trailer with no power issues. Now the rpms go up & the power goes down. It never gets hot nor any lights come on. It's been in the shop twice. The first time nothing was found. The second time we were told it was dirty fuel filters. The truck only has 70k miles...
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I have randomly getting in my sd. It is an 08 f250 xl with a 5.4. randomly my truck chime at me, hence why I haven't been able to capture it on video. It will chime twice. The sound is a subtle bong, bong. It is never predictable and never affects anything, but is annoying and I am curious as to why it does it.
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I have a 2001 f250 superduty 7.3L diesel and my air conditioner just randomly started blowing HOT south texas air. I tried to recharge it with refrigerant but the gauge said that it was over charged as soon as I plugged it into the low side port. What is wrong???
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I have (2) 2014 f250's both have given the trailer disconnected message randomly from the day they were new. Dealer says everything is with in specification. I just live with it now but something must be wrong with the design. Only does it when no trailer is connected an might be worse when it rains. Might have to hit the ok button every 10 minutes so on bad days.
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My 2004 F250 has been having issues with the radio. Its been randomly changing stations and volume. I think its due to moisture in the dash. Its stops when I run the heater thru the dash vents.
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I have an 06 F 250. Recently my gauges and radio have been randomly turning off then back on when I am driving down the road. How I can fix this????
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2001 F250. My drivers side seat belt buckle randomly releases and it's getting worse. Any sources on a new one or used even. Also, what other vehicles may have the same part number if I go used.
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I have a 2001 f250 super duty extended cab with the v10. Over the past week it has been running fine and it will all of a sudden lose power and dies. I've been able to start it back up once right away and a few times it started up after a few hours of messing with it.
So, after the truck dies it will crank and crank but will not start. We have checked fuel pressure and nothing. Then we applied direct current to the fuel pump and it turns on. Then we applied direct current to the fuel pump slot in the fuse box and got a fuel pressure reading of 40 psi. But when we crank we have no pressure.
When we apply direct current to the fuel pump slot in the fuse box the truck will only crank and not start.
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I have a 2012 f250 been in the shop 4 times for the traction control light just coming on randomly and staying on. they have flashed it changed something in the steering column forgot name of that and changed some sensors out. still does it. I think its a bad connection or bare wire is what I keep saying to them cause it only does it on rough roads and when its wet.
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So I'll be driving down the road and the gauges will randomly start jumping around then the truck will just shut off, this just started a couple days ago, it seems to be gaining in frequency, when i try and restart the engine all my warning lights flash on and nothing happens, try again and it starts back up, now the last time it happened all of the above happened but it was followed by a fast clicking noise from under the steering column, it has to be a electrical issue as i have full tanks and motor is in tip top shape. Also no codes pop up with my code reader.
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My 2002 F250 7.3 randomly dies while driving and seems to only be when I hit a bump no matter the size. I have checked the valve cover harness connector outside of the valve covers and they look fine. I checked the ECM connection took it off and reconnected it.
Changed the CPS censor twice, checked the ICP sensor, checked continuity of all the glow plugs through the valve cover harness. Checked the fuel pump, checked all related fuses, changed the fuel filter, checked glow plug relay, batteries hold good voltage and were recently upgraded to bigger batteries.
Engine runs just a little rough but not enough to be of concern. Air filter is clean and oil level is perfect. What could possible be causing my truck to randomly die when it hits a bump and not start back right away??? This truck is new to me and its the first diesel engine I have ever owned.
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Just had my tires rotated (which I do ever 5,000 miles) and an alignment done. Alignment appears to be in spec, but she is pulling/drifting to the right. Dealer suggested I get the tires cross-rotated, which I had done yesterday, but she is still drifting/pulling... not sure the difference. Pretty sure I have to get it back to the dealer to address, but just looking for other possible causes to potentially prevent that trip.
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My Superduty has been pulling to the left when I hit the brakes for a few months now. In the past it's done it, like within a year or two after buying it brand-new off the lot, but that was because one brake pad had rusted itself to the bracket and was not doing a darn thing. Once or twice more, it was a stuck caliper pin, which was quite obvious when working on it.
Last year, around August, I replaced the rotors and pads with Advanced Auto parts stuff. Rotors are still great, pads look brand-new, and it wasn't pulling up until the past month or two.
But this most recent pulling has been a problem that I can't find. It's not the pins, it's not the pads, and now I find out, it wasn't the calipers
This past weekend I went so far as to replace the calipers with Napa rebuilt "semi-loaded" calipers (all hardware and pins and bracket, except for the pads) and pressure-bleed the entire system. The old fluid was green, not black, but now that it's been bled, the pedal is a bit firmer than it was.
I wasn't going to replace the calipers without checking them first, but I broke both bleed nipples off and I wasn't about to wrestle with an easy-out and try to get the darn things out. Per side, rebuilt caliper with hardware and bracket, can't go wrong. (Checking the calipers would have involved using a C-clamp to compress the caliper slightly, then backing off the C-clamp - if the pistons come back out a slight degree, they are free and the seals are still "grabby" and resilient).
While bleeding it, I saw a piece of black crud (rubber?) about 2-3mm in size come out of the left side. Didn't think much of it, figured it was just built up crud from somewhere.
Today, the first commute after doing the calipers and bleeding, it's still pulling just like it was before the calipers. However, I did notice at one point when I hit them, they pulled like they normally do, but seemed to go straight a few seconds into it. It does seem that if I keep my foot on the brake, the pulling is much less after the initial second or two, but if I stab them again, it pulls like crazy.
And by "pull" I mean the steering wheel actually moves in my hand. So with that in mind, it's actually a front-brake problem. If it was the rears, the wheel wouldn't pull like it does, and if it was something loose in the suspension, I would have found it already after checking everything, and it again, wouldn't pull the steering wheel like that.
Now, given that black piece of whatever that came out of the left side, I'm beginning to wonder... if it was rubber from the inside of the hose.
Is the right brake hose causing the pulling because it's coming apart just like the left one might be?
I've gone over and over this in my head this morning, and thought about the ABS unit possibly dumping pressure from the right because of a leaky valve (see side note below), but I would think that once the pedal stab was over, it would even out and not pull at all.
However, this thing pulls left quite a bit, even after the pedal has been held down for quite some time. Usually. Sometimes, it subsides and doesn't pull. But mostly it does no matter what I do, keep pressure on the pedal, let up and reapply, whatever.
Does this really sound like a bad hose? It's intermittent, but usually pulls like 90% of the time.
Side note: The ABS unit in my truck, and most Fords of the time (not sure about later than 2004 or so) is a Kelsey-Hayes three-channel unit like this:
Kelsey-Hayes RWAL Antilock Brakes
It's the same system found in Chevy Suburbans and light-trucks, which I have worked on before and know a bit about.
In my case, it can't be a dump valve leaking, because it would effect pedal-height and not PULL to one side like it does. The only way that could happen is if the isolation valve was closed, AND the dump valve were leaking at the same time.
I haven't, however, gotten the ABS to activate just to see if it changes anything. On my way home tonight I will see if I can find some dirt or sand and get it going
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My truck is intermittently pulling to either side when braking. Sometimes its the right, sometimes its the left, sometimes its hard, sometimes its soft.
Its a relatively new truck. 21K miles - 2014 F-250 Super Duty 6.7 Powerstroke.
I don't want to go to the dealer yet, because its emissions deleted, tuned, and lifted. I don't really want to hear their bull rhetoric.
I have unplugged the ABS sensors for a few minutes while running, plugged them back in and its gone away for a period of time, but now its back again.
Just trying to figure out what the problem is and see if its something I can just fix myself.
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Truck blows smoke like a blown NASCAR engine occasionally when pulling heavy load....pull over, cool off and resume driving. Its as if it never happened. All fluid levels are in range and truck drives fine minus load. My last f350 5.4 did same thing at about 200k miles. My local ford dealer tells me I'm the only guy on earth this Has happened to.
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My 05 f-350 6.0 is giving me some problems. I have 311,000 on my truck. It had had its share of problems, at 80,000 it blew its first head gasket. Ford fixed that one!! At 199,000 it blew its second one. I had head studs installed this time. At 299,000 I had to replace two injectors, a new turbo, a egr delete kit, a new oil cooler, power steering gear box, and while I was burning 1000.00 dollar bills I put a new edge cts on it. IOne the way out day one it was 95 temp out side, the truck ran great coolant temp and oil temp stayed around 202 to 204.
Day two 70 degrees my o temp hit 235 while the coolant temp went to 210. Backed off the throttle to 60 mph. Coolant temp dropped to 202, but the oil temp stayed around 217 to 220. I can not make the oil temp go above 198 with out the trailer. The other thing that scares me the most is my coolant level dropped about a half gallon!!! It is not blowing any white smoke, there is no coolant smell or leaks that I can see, and the holding tank has no evidence of being over pressurized. The edge system does not give me any codes except for the two for my egr delete.
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Driving on a paved road(some potholes but nothing bad) came to stop sign. After waiting for trafffic to clear, made right turn onto state highway truck began to pull to left, at first I thought i had a flat tire but every thing looked okay. Drove two miles to home, if let the steering wheel go, the truck would change lanes in about 25 feet...
2002 ford crew cab 4x4 7.3 power stroke 20k on Michelin.
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I have a 2000 SD F250, gasser, auto. Last week I pulled a heavy load and developed a tranny fluid leak. The fluid appears to be coming from what looks like a freeze plug on the bottom of the casing forward of the (torque converter?) pan . Is that plug easily replaced by a DYIer. Small leak. 150K on the motor. First time it has leaked. Heaviest load I've pulled.
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