Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: F250 - Pulling A Stuck Tractor Trailer In The Snow
Feb 7, 2014
So the other day 2/3/2014 my dad and I went out during the snow storm for the people that needed assistance. That day I pulled a 95' RWD dually with a 4 car open trailer and pushed 4 people from one location. Then after I went to assist the tractor trailer driver. My truck is a 2002 F250 super duty 5.4L with 4:10 gears. I got him unstuck then pulled him a 1/2 mile up a hill.
Pulling a stuck semi out of the snow - YouTube .....
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My husband and I bought a 09 f-250 with 58000 miles. It used to pull our travel trailer with no power issues. Now the rpms go up & the power goes down. It never gets hot nor any lights come on. It's been in the shop twice. The first time nothing was found. The second time we were told it was dirty fuel filters. The truck only has 70k miles...
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My 05 f-350 6.0 is giving me some problems. I have 311,000 on my truck. It had had its share of problems, at 80,000 it blew its first head gasket. Ford fixed that one!! At 199,000 it blew its second one. I had head studs installed this time. At 299,000 I had to replace two injectors, a new turbo, a egr delete kit, a new oil cooler, power steering gear box, and while I was burning 1000.00 dollar bills I put a new edge cts on it. IOne the way out day one it was 95 temp out side, the truck ran great coolant temp and oil temp stayed around 202 to 204.
Day two 70 degrees my o temp hit 235 while the coolant temp went to 210. Backed off the throttle to 60 mph. Coolant temp dropped to 202, but the oil temp stayed around 217 to 220. I can not make the oil temp go above 198 with out the trailer. The other thing that scares me the most is my coolant level dropped about a half gallon!!! It is not blowing any white smoke, there is no coolant smell or leaks that I can see, and the holding tank has no evidence of being over pressurized. The edge system does not give me any codes except for the two for my egr delete.
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A friend has a 2003 6.0,around 200000kms well maintained just had new injectors,filters etc. This truck is his bread and butter so anything that needs to be addressed gets it, pretty much touble free until now. Just out of the blue last week at driving @60kms/hr pulling an empty trailer it died no surge or sputter. Full fuel,oil etc,they tried to get it running and it would not fire up. His local auto shop pretty much gave up on it and it now sits at our Ford dealership. Thoughts are leaning to fuel delivery to electrical can we ball park some things that he can put forward to the dealer to get him in and out sooner.
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So I have a 2004 F250 5.4 regular cab 4wd long bed that was bought used with a very heavy Western Pro plow. The truck only has 70K miles and it is equipped with the snow plow package and heavy GVWR package. Since I had no use for the plow, I removed it and all mounting hardware as soon as I got it home. The truck wanders and bounces down the road terribly.
It is tiring to drive and requires total attention. Reading posts on here about "wandering" left me thinking my steering box was probably worn out. I replaced this without any change. I figured that I must have other components needing fixed, but had not had time or money to dig deeper yet.
Now, this morning when leaving work, the truck had accumulated nearly an inch of very heavy, wet snow with a small layer of ice on the hood. Driving home was as if I were in another vehicle. Everything was tight and much less "hopping" when hitting small bumps. So, this leads me to my question. Do you think that simply adding some weight back to the front end, i.e.,: bumper, or brush guard, could be my answer? Or, is this simply covering up a more extensive problem?
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I'm working on my brothers 99 f250 super duty 2wd. The truck pulls to the right. Here's the list of things I've changed and checked
1. Gear box
2. Tie rods
3. Ball joints (aligned)
4. New bearings and seals
5. Brake rotors and calipers. Front and rear.
6. Rotated tires front to back
7. Rotated tires in cris cross pattern
8. 4 new tires (factory size tires)
9. Rebalanced tires
10. Aligned for a third time.
And the truck still pulls right. What is causing this!
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1999 f250 5.4L... Its done this 3 or 4 times now. Driving and it starts pulling to the right pretty bad, almost like if the front passenger tire was messed up or something. Today it did it, after I let it sit for a few min, then drove back to the house, it drove straight. Also, when it pulls to the right, its very sluggish, as if I'm pulling a very heavy load. From a stop, it doesn't even go until I hit the gas, and at that its very sluggish, sorts feels like if you drive off and forget the ebrake is on.
Also I've noticed some burning on the passenger side which I've read is probably the head gasket. I can see the oil dripping on the exhaust, causing the smoke. Also, my CEL just came on, with code P0401 "powertrain exhaust gas recirculation flow insufficient detected". Recently changed the plugs because it was running and idling a little rough.
At this point in wondering if the pulling issue could be something with the brakes, when I'm driving, it sounds like something is rubbing, I haven't looked at the brakes yet but I'm likely going to do new pads and rotors all around soon anyways.
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I have a 2005 Ford F-250. I have checked power to the rear harness and all is good except for the tail/running lights.
Is there a fuse for the tail lights? I have checked the manual and don't see one called out. And the relays under the hood are labeled stop lights/turn signals and those are working fine.
I will see if I can trace the brown wire from the rear harness backwards, but it may be a simple fuse.
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Any info if the "Aux" terminal on the trailer harness wiring on '01 F250s is for reverse lighting? I'd like to put some on my stock trailer. Also, is the "12v" terminal feed switch operated or hot always?
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I have a 2005 ford f250 with the factory installed brake controller and towing package,until recently all was well,I tow a fairly large travel trailer and last time I hooked the trailer to the truck I noticed the running lights on the trailer were lit, I checked to make sure that I did not have the parking lights turned on or the headlights. I did find posts about the running lights not working and was surprised to find there is a relay somewhere on the central junction fuse block that was integral to the cfb and not user serviceable. Could my problem be that this relay failed in the closed position or am I not going in the right direction in my quest to find this problem. Also looking for a diagram of where this relay is located on the central junction fuse block? I would also consider doing a work around solution rather than having to replace the entire fuse block.
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Where I can find a good used or a good deal on a new factory trailer brake controller to fit a 2006 F250 Diesel Truck?
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I have (2) 2014 f250's both have given the trailer disconnected message randomly from the day they were new. Dealer says everything is with in specification. I just live with it now but something must be wrong with the design. Only does it when no trailer is connected an might be worse when it rains. Might have to hit the ok button every 10 minutes so on bad days.
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I tow a 5th wheel with my 2014 F-250 that has an factory TBC. I just installed Electric over Hydraulic disc brakes on my 5th wheel and was trying to see if there was a setting I needed to change on the TBC to tell it that is now E/H versus E. In the Information section of the dashboard display it talks about the controller actuating electric drum brakes but the manual talks about it being able to do electric AND E/H. What I need to do here...if anything?
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2010 F250 Lariat, cab and a half, PSD. 5600 miles.
Sunday I started the pickup and received "trailer brake module fault" in the message center. I wasn't pulling so wasn't too concerned - hit the reset and continued on.
Sunday night I started the pickup again and received the same message followed by "check brake system". I also lost illuminated gear selection, the traction control active symbol was displayed and the traction control "off" (PB) was illuminated. After several attempts it reset, everything returned to normal and I was able to get home without incident.
Monday morning it wouldn't start. It indicated "trailer brake module fault", "check brake system", traction control active and off, no gear indication, the odometer indicated "-------" and it did not react to the key in the start position.
Tuesday morning I attempted to start and it was the same as the previous attempt. I noticed that the theft prevention appeared active (flashing) so I removed the key, locked the doors, unlocked the doors, tried again - no joy.
I kept trying while holding my mouth in different positions and finally by the grace of God it fired. I delivered it to the dealer.
The dealer called yesterday afternoon and reported that everything is a result of a bad trailer brake module. The new one is to arrive today, they will install and everything will be peachy.
I asked if they could just unplug it and reprogram the truck to believe it never had one - the service writer said it can't be done, different piece parts on trucks with or without trailer brakes.
I really have no choice but to push the "I believe" button and carry on but I am slightly concerned. The fact that the trailer brake module can cause catastrophic failure doesn't seem too cool, I don't have a real warm and fuzzy feeling associated with venturing far from pavement, reliable communication or alternative transportation.
In the meantime I suggest that no one take "trailer brake module failure" lightly.
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I've got an intermittent Trailer Wiring Error message that started appearing with a trailer connected on my '11 F250.
Brakes and lights work OK on the trailer, I thought I had read on the board here that there was a TSB for this, but I cannot find it.
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My 99 f250 ran hot while towing my travel trailer when the fan clutch gave up. ever since iv been noticing coolant loss and pressure in the day tank.ive changed the water pump,radiator. day tank and cap plus the thermostat.
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I have a 2006 f250 superduty crew cab longbed with the v10 gas motor. it has 201000 miles on it and towed great up until last month. I was towing a 5000lb trailer down the interstate at around 68mph,suddenly it was like the drive train disengaged and the motor had nothing left, check engine light on but no overheat condition or lack of oil pressure. we put a new fuel filter and pump on and maf, took trailer out again and same problem, pulled to the side and turned off, immediately restarted and ran fine. It has a cat not cleaning code in it now!
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My 08, when I connect my 7-pin trailer up, bouncing down the road that message and tone CONSTANTLY going off....drives me nuts! I have went thru the wire harness 2x now, cleaned all the contacts, etc. Any other thing short of a 12 gauge? When it does pop on, the controller starts flashing...I've reached down a few times and manually hit the brakes and it still hits em so whatever it is, I feel its very minor or whatever....just don't know where to go now! All contacts have been cleaned good as well.
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I have a 2006 F250 and my 7pin and 4 pin connectors are just hanging loose. I'm not sure what happened to the factory bracket. What is the part number for this bracket? Also, where does it mount to? I looked under the truck and couldnt tell where the factory one mounts.
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My father has a 2009 Ford F-250 Superduty with the 5.4l V8. Two days ago, he frantically woke me up from a nap because he could not get the truck out of park nor are the brake lights turning on when the pedal is pressed. I instantly thought Shift Interlock, did a quick google search and found that it can be the shift interlock or brake light switch on the brake pedal. I have since then replaced both to no avail as well as checking all fuses. I put a multimeter to the brake light switch connector and am getting a steady 10.2v. I am aware there is a bypass switch but that doesn't address the fact that he has no brake lights.
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My Ford 250 is currently stuck in park, it starts but I can't move the shifter. It sounds like it is a fuse issue from what I have read, but I bought the truck at an auction and I don't have a book. Do the brake or parking brake fuse? And where is it located? I know there is a panel under the hood and under the dash, which fuse to look for. It's a 2008 extended cab gas model.
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