Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Burning Brakes Smell After A 30 Minute Drive / One Of Pistons Fell Apart Of Caliper
Oct 9, 2014
I pulled into my driveway after a 30 minute drive and smelled burning brakes. The right front was the culprit so I took a garden hose and cooled it down. The next day I remove the caliper and one of the pistons fell apart. So I need a new caliper and trying to decide if I buy after market or go with Motorcraft? I think the rotor, caliper, and pads are original since I the rotor is stamped Ford and the caliper bracket has TRW and Ford markings.
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When starting up my 2011 F-250 Gas, I have a burning smell coming from my vents for about a minute then it goes away. It smells like new electronics. My A/C seems extra cold as well. We just got back from a 3800 mile vacation. Its been going on now for about 3 weeks and never changes...
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The wife and I ventured out last Friday evening to run a few errands. When we returned to the house and pulled into the garage, we both smelled burning brake pad. I felt the rear wheels, the drivers side was too hot to touch.
Dragging brake caliper. I got online and reserved a drivers side caliper and a set of pads at NAPA. Saturday morning I removed the caliper. Much to my surprise, one of the caliper pistons was broken into multiple pieces.
I took the offending caliper to NAPA and picked up the new caliper and a set of pads.
Side note - NAPA seems to think the 2007 trucks have calipers that mount in front of the axle, not behind the axle. They will try to sell you a passenger side caliper and tell you it is a driver side caliper. It will bolt up fine, but the bleeder valve will be at the bottom of the caliper instead of the top. You'll never get the air out of the caliper.
Got back home, bolted up the new caliper and pads, then bled the system. All worked well.
I decided to throw new pads on the passenger side brakes as well, since I had 2 remaining. I took off the passenger side caliper, much to my surprise I found a cracked and broken piston on that side also! Another run to NAPA to pick up another caliper. Installed, bled the system again, all working well.
Now, I have never seen a cracked and broken caliper piston like this, let alone one on each side of the rear axle. What might have caused this? About a year ago I had a shop install new backing plates. The pads and calipers are about 3 years old, same shop installed those.
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I know this has been talked about many times and how to solve the issue but thought I would ask some other questions too. Earlier in the summer, I did grease the slider pins as preventative maintenance. I don't drive my truck all that much and when I used it yesterday, (about 30 minute drive) I came home to burning brake smell. I'm wondering if enough heat would cause the caliper to go bad? Should I just grease the pins again or change out some parts?
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2001 F250 SD diesel. Brakes have been working fine with no pulling. They just started to squeal recently so I knew it was time for some new pads.
I'm having a problem that seems to plague me often when I try to replace disc brake pads. I can't get the twin pistons to go back in to allow room to get the new, thicker pads in.
I unscrewed the cap to the master cylinder and used a spreading tool (that came in a brake kit from Advance Auto Parts) to compress the pistons. No movement.
I put a lot of force on it. No piston movement.
I unscrewed the bleeder screw and tried again. No movement.
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I have a 2000 F250 SD 4x4. I noticed the other day that after driving the truck for 10 miles or more and then stopping and getting back in it feels like the parking brake is on. I drove the truck home and on my way back I smelled brakes burning but it wasn't pulling while driving or braking. When I got home I put my head in the wheel well to get a look at the brakes on the drivers side it seemed ok, but when I did it on the passenger side it was hot as Hades! It's been my experience that if the caliper is hanging up it will pull either while braking or regular driving. I just want a better idea before I go ahead and buy a new caliper and hose and tear the dang thing apart.
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I have had the truck just under a year. It has 104k on it i only drive it on weekends. Last weekend going to Home Depot about 15 miles got out and could smell brakes burning. Felt the wheels and the right rear was very hot. Got back home no smell but still hot not as hot as earlier. Pulled the wheel off it looks as if the pads and calipers are fairly new paint is still on them caliper is a TRW. The pads were stuck in the carrier even the stainless clip ends look rusted.
Cleaned it all up both sides lubed the pad carrier with pin lube. Pushed the calipers back in some both sides went in easy. The right rotor has definitley been hot. Put it all back together and went for a test drive. Came back no problems checked the temperature with a laser type heat thermometer all wheels were around 140 f. Went out yesterday morning stopped and could smell the brakes again. Drove it back home and the right rear was 300 f. others 150 to 160 f.
Jacked it up put it in neutral and the you can spin the wheels by hand. Started the truck had the wife get in put it in drive wheels turning applied the brakes they stopped let go they turn freely again tried the parking brake it works fine also. So do I buy new calipers and brakes or maybe is the wheel bearing going bad causing the brakes to heat up?ied.
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I have a 2002 ford f350 triton 5.4 V8. I just put front brake pads on my truck today. Started driving around and i could smell burning brakes. Stopped and alot of smoke was coming from my brakes on my front passenger side but nothing from the front drivers side. Replaced all the brake pads on the front. What is making them so hot?
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Just got my torque app running. At idle I am seeing ect of 186.8 and eot of 176.8. After driving around town for about 30 minutes. Are these acceptable?
Note: ambient temp is 22F
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I just got this truck and didn't have any strange odors other than brake caliper which got replaced immediately. I got 4 new Mastercraft AXT tires last week and two days before that I got a muffler installed. I put a flowmaster on it (black) Now if I drive it about three four miles, I get a smell coming from somewhere which I can't locate because nothing is hot and it goes away within a few minutes so I cant pin point it. At first i thought it smelled like rubber heating up, but now not sure. I may take it back to tire dealer and have him check all the tires for balance. I had them do an alignment, so I would hope it isn't that. The smell came with the new tires I think....I had the exhaust worked on two days prior to that and didn't notice anything after that. I haven't checked anything else, but there isn't anything hot when I jump out and start sniffing around. Would tires do that if NEW or out of balance?
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For the first time while towing a bumper pull trailer, started getting a very strong burning smell, only while going up decent size hills. After the climb, smell goes away. Kind of smells like burning rubber or wiring, but that should be constant and not just while up hill.
Checked tranny fluid and it didn't look burnt or low and never saw visible smoke. Have seen this discussed before but with no definitive conclusions. Truck has 150K on it and has long ago lost most of its towing power and the hills also drop the speed to around 45mph from 70 when I hit the big ones.
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So just about every trip that's over 20 minutes I'll get a smell, seems like it's coming thru the vents and it smells like burning wires or like you turned on your heat in your house for the first time of the year.... Is this normal??
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I have an 04 f250 with a 5.4 I smelled something like burning and the truck shut down. the fuse panel was warm. after a min or so it starts back up never know how far till it stalls again.
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Recently purchased a CPO 2009 F250SD 6.4L. Happy with the truck overall but this AM I noticed a slight burning plastic smell so I opened the hood and looked around closely. Didn't really find the culprit(I don't think) but noticed that the engine compartment heat shield/barrier appears to be falling down above and behind the turbos (pictures linked below). How big a deal is this? Would it be covered under the CPO warranty? It almost seems like a safety issue. I also wonder if the insulation material, now exposed without the metal reflector material, is what is causing the smell....
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I am a few DAYS into a project changing my ball joints on my 2001 F250SD 4wd.
Latest issue is I can't get the brakes back on. One of the pistons was pressed out making replacing the calipers onto the rotor impossible. Fiddling with things has only made it worse.
The higher piston is stuck extended, and the other piston doesn't even budge.
The truck is our only vehicle, and I have been working on it since Tuesday night. It looked like it was going to be done today, but I can't put it all back together now.
That piston will not move. I've tried opening the bleeder and taking a clamp to it but all I get it a few more drops of fluid, no visible movement.
A while ago it looked like this. I got it to move in a little, but it is firmly stuck.
I'm wondering if I can pull it all the way out and clean/sand polish it. Can I use a quick-clamp on the rubber section of brake line to isolate the calipers so I can pull the piston out without draining all the brake fluid from higher in the system? And what do I do about the other piston that doesn't seem to be moving at all? Grab with big pliers and twist/pull?
Some of us just have a knack for finding layer upon layer of problems on projects...
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The pads were replaced 5000 miles ago. Today the truck is acting hard to go, brakes are squealing, and I noticed a hot brake smell. I got home, grabbed a remote thermometer gun and the front rotors are 130 degrees, the back ones are 650 and 700 degrees! Super hot. I'm going to NAPA for new calipers and pads. I hope that fixes it.
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Bad news: Radiator fan fell off while driving tore up fan blades. It is going to take them a week to get the parts!
Good news: My extended warranty is good for 10 more days! So the fan and fan clutch need replaced.
Should I insist that they replace the serpentine belt that rubbed on fan (50,000 miles on belt, original belt) and the water pump? It put a good dent in the radiator but didn't puncture it.
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My Bump Stops have completely dry rotted and fell off the truck. I have an 08 with a 2 inch leveling kit, I already did all the body bushings, as they disintegrated as well. Should I bother replacing them? I highly doubt that I would ever bottom out that bad that I would need them?
If I should replace them, then where did u guy's get them and should I go with the Neoprene like I did with the body bushings?
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My 6.0 lost a bolt that holds the AC clutch and the clutch fell off. It's probably on some highway making people have flats. Is it possible to buy a replacement clutch and NOT remove the OEM pulley, just take the parts off the replacement clutch and put them on the old AC and existing pulley?
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The other day I had a metal pin fall out from under my dash and hit me on the foot (only reason I would have know if fell out till I clean the truck)
Ever since then the gear selector handle for my transmission has become sloppy and when I go to turn off the truck, I have to hold the arm up to turn key off all the way. I have looked to try and find where it goes and cannot find the location. I have also looked at a blown up parts diagram and cannot find it. Where it goes?
2002 F250 SD V10 with auto...
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I just hit a pothole on my way home just now and now my front right caliper is sticking. It happen about 10min from my house. As soon as i hit the pothole I can feel my truck pulling to the right and felt like there was some resistance when i was driving. I got home and peeked my head in the wheel-well and i can smell the brakes burning and smoking a little. How would hitting a pothole cause a caliper to stick. Is there anyway to unstick it or am i gonna have to change that caliper out...
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