Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Clunk At Rear End When Hit A Bump
Oct 25, 2016
When I am driving and hit a bump in the road, especially when the rear tires contact it square. I hear a clunk at the rear end. Sounds like suspension, loose tailgate...
My truck is a 2016 F250 Crew Cab Short Bed. It has a factory installed fifth wheel hitch. I have looked at the obvious, spare tire, loose bolts... I removed the tailgate and it still makes the sound. I removed the insert in the receiver, still makes the sound. No goose neck ball in fifth wheel hitch. Checked bed bolts. Cant find it. Drives me crazy.
I also have a 2008, exact same truck, 200,000 miles, no clunking. I have driven in my friends 2014 F350 Crew Cab Long Bed, it clunks. Dealer pulled a new truck off the lot today, took a drive, it clunks. Dealer can't find it and confirms there is a clunk.
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I bought this truck a little over a year ago and have put almost 30,000 miles on it. When I bought it, it had a clunk from the front end, but only when I went over a significant bump. It was most pronounced when I, for example, hit a speed bump at an angle and the body rocked back and forth. It's steadily been getting worse and now it's fairly concerning. It happens on pretty much every bump now. Additionally, I've developed a fairly significant shimmy under braking and a vibration over 65mph. I got into a fairly scary shimmy when trying to slow down as I was going down a mountain a few weeks ago.
The other day I started getting a grinding noise from the front right. It goes away when the brakes are pressed. I don't know if the grinding noise and vibration/shimmy are related to the clunking or if they are the result of a separate issue. I have plenty of brake pad and rotor on all corners and there is no perceptible play in any of the front end components (wheel bearings, ball joints, tie rods, shock mounts, etc.). I suspected the leaf spring bushings, but I supported the truck by the frame and still got no noticeable play when jerking things around by hand.
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The last couple of weeks a new clunk has appeared on my F350, 6.2 CC LB FX4. If I've been parked for a while, when I drive off, within the first 30 yards or so there's a clunk. Seems worse when I've turned sharply out of a parking spot. Sounds like the rear diff or drivetrain... I have a locking rear diff. Is this engaged or disengaged while "at rest"? Could it be that its slow to unlock when I start?
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I had a pretty good clunk going on and found the passenger tie rod was shot. The rest of the steer components looked fine. Fixed it and still get a nice bunch of clunks. Went over the steering again with someone rotating the wheel and didn't notice any crazy movements. The drag link twisted a bit but the joints looked solid compared to the tie rod which was completely shot.
So I decided to dig into it today. Looked again and nothing. So I took it into my back yard to drive over some humps left from stump grinding. Clunk, clunk, clunk. I stuck my head out the window and wouldn't you know it the sound seems to be coming from the rear! Took a pry bar to parts like the sway bar links, shocks, etc.... can't detect anything. Maybe a u-joint? Gotta dig in I guess.
Also my rear springs creak like nothing I've ever heard. Dirt roads it's just creak, creak, creak.
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I've got a 2008 f-250 extra cab. A small bump will cause the rear driver side door to pop open. What I have to do to fix it, I don't want the grandkids falling out.
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I am experiencing what feels like a "bump in the rear" when initially starting from a dead stop. It feels like a car behind me tapped the bumper or that the truck "hunkers down" first, then moves. Tranny seems fine also. Once moving, there is no problem whatsoever. There atre no noises, leaks, or other symptoms. Also, when coming to a stop, it feels the same way just before the truck completely stops. If I drift forward a little, then apply the accelerator, it does not "slip" or hunker down.
Took it to the dealer and they claim that they can't find anything wrong and may just be the suspension releasing? The truck does this whether loaded or not?
2001 F250 CC Lariat SB 7.3
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I have a 2005 king ranch and have a clunk coming from the back over bumps/heaves in the road. It doesn't happen all the time but often enough. I just replaced the shocks, that worked a little but didn't solve the problem. Now thinking rear sway bar end links? Anything I can check/inspect?
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So lately I have noticed that my 99 F-250 has a bit of a "bump" while accelerating. Think of it as accelerating with a trailer and something is loose on the hitch, making a sort of bump or thump. I talked to the guy at the parts store and he said to put it in neutral and wiggle the driveshaft up and down, side to side.
When I did that it moved up and down, but not side to side, but I'm not sure if that's because it's just positioned that way or what. The wobble was coming from the slip yoke back by the rear diff. Is this something I should be concerned about? Also, I have an ext. cab and short box, 1 piece driveshaft.
Here's a video (a very crappy video at that), not sure if it gets enough info through or not but hopefully you kinda get how much play is in there.
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My F-250 super duty has a bump thump when I stop if I release the the brake it goes thump bump? Does not do this if I put it neutral. Seems to do this in Acceleration from a stop, shifting goes bump sometimes, When hitting rough roads does not seem there bump thump suspension issues?? Already greased the drive spline joint the same, checked if there is anything loose nope, checked spare tire secure , 75,000 miles stock shocks?? something in the transfer case?? The rear end just had the seals replaced??? Tranny is secure??
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My Bump Stops have completely dry rotted and fell off the truck. I have an 08 with a 2 inch leveling kit, I already did all the body bushings, as they disintegrated as well. Should I bother replacing them? I highly doubt that I would ever bottom out that bad that I would need them?
If I should replace them, then where did u guy's get them and should I go with the Neoprene like I did with the body bushings?
[URL]
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I was driving and i was doing about 60 65 and i hit a bump and i heard a loud rattle and it shock the hell out of me then it just stop...
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I have an 09 F350 (116,000 miles) that I have only owned for about 3 months. I got it pretty cheap but it did have a front end issue. Drives fine most of the time but hit a bump just wrong at highway speed and it goes into a shake and wobble that feels like you just blew a front tire. Took it into my shop, not the dealer and was told I pretty much need a front end rebuild. Kinda what I figured I would hear.
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I purchased the truck from a used car lot about 3 months ago and after driving for a few thousand miles I am feeling a slight wobble after hitting a bump in the road. Here is my truck set up:
- 2011 Ford Lariat F250 4X4 FX4 6.7 ltr
- 67400 miles
- Tires stock and great tread
- Rancho steering stabilizer kit
- Rancho Shocks
- Rear air bags
It does appear one of the rancho stabilizer dampers is leaking slightly. Why would the previous owner install a rancho stabilizer kit? Is it because of the rear air bags?
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Got the death wobble, had everything replaced. Wobble was worse, upgraded track bar. Then no wobble but bad bump steer. Put on new OEM track bar.
Ok but still if I hit a hole on the interstate I get death wobble and little mini wobbles on any bump. What is the permanent fix for this other than selling the truck?
2011 6.7L FWD Lariat, upgraded exhaust and Def removed.
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So the other day i opened the door and heard a super loud clunk noise come from the door and when I turned the car on and pulled hte window down it wouldn't go down all the way, only about 75% of the way so I assumed like BMW cars the window motor died but oddly it continued to go up and down just now 100% down.
Then 3 days later when I came to drive the car again the window went down to the 75% mark and now its jammed there with no movement even if I tried to lift the window up myself. Usually a broken motor allows this to happen but since it isn't budging I am wondering if its an electrical issue with the power window button more than the motor?
I say this because when i try to lower the passenger window from the driver side it works than out of no where on the 3rd time it wont move at all than 5 minutes later it will move or if it doesn't move I just go and pull the window down from the passenger side then I come to the driver side and try it and it works again than it'll stop again. So maybe its the power window control buttons on the drivers side that's failing?
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2000 F350. 4x4, V10. 153,xxx miles. Here's the story. Whenever I hit a little bump in the road, I get a vibration directly under my feet and in the gas pedal, NOT in the steering. It will go away pretty quick or when I hit another bump. It only happens when the front driveshaft is not spinning. Hubs locked in in 2WD, it doesn't vibrate. Hubs unlocked and in 4x4 High it doesn't vibrate.
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Problem: 55-60+ mph hit a bump front end shakes violently. Slow down to 40 mph it stops. DOES NOT happen every time, and may only happen once a week, but when it does my whole front end feels like it will come loose.
Solutions to date that have not worked:
1. Rotate and balance tires. (tire shop)
2. New shocks. (me)
3. New steering stabilizer. (me)
4. Changed ball joint and bushing in track bar. (Dealership)
5. Check ball bearings and seem to be ok. (me)
6. Check tie rod ends and are ok. (Dealership)
The only other options people have given me:
1. Dual Steering Stabilizer. (Have had truck since Jan and hasn't done it in about 19,000 miles. Why would it need it now? Truck has 109,000 miles on it.)
2. New tires. (If it were the tires wouldn't it do it all the time? )
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I have a E99 F350 7.3L 4x4 I know some or most of you have already probably replaced this part and or pulled a front axle shaft out. So here is my question...In the pictures provided you can see what I think everyone is calling a "Dust Seal" and as you can see it is bad and making a very terrible noise when i hit a bump...I was wondering what parts I would need to replace this seal? I tried looking it up and just get lost in all of the other things....I have found write-ups for the axle being removed while changing ball joints but none by it self to just replace this seal.
[URL] ....
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So my '99 F350 4x4 is making a clunking sound and there is a distinct jolt in the truck while this is occurring.
Symptoms: From a stop while accelerating, there is a distinct jolt and clunk. The best way I can describe the feeling is like something isn't tightened down all the way so there is a split second while inertia is generated and the "looseness" catches up to the acceleration.
When stopping, the clunk and jolt is generated when the truck comes to a complete stop. When the truck rebounds backwards a bit because of the suspension pulls it backwards after stopping, you will hear the clunk again.
I replaced the ball joints a week ago an a wheel hub bearing on the right side. I don't recall this before these repairs, but it may have been making this noise. I was more focused on the grinding from the wheel bearing so I may not have noticed the clunk and jolt then.
Where I should start looking for the problem?
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2009 F350 4x4 DRW. Just replaced rod ends, drag link, sway bar bushings and end links, ball joints, and shocks. I have a clunk when the axle travels downward on bumps. The only thing I see is that the tie rod assembly will rotate easily by hand and I can make it clunk when I rotate it. It does not rotate in the ends, the ends rotate with it. Thinking this may be flopping around over a bump. Does tie rod rotate easily?
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I'm completely aware a lifted truck will not ride factory and most likely ride harder. But this is ridiculous.
So I bought a 8" super lift for my F250 7.3 2000, although the price is very cheap at that shipped to my door debating if I have messed up either with the brand or somewhere because I feel like I went from a casual ride in my lovely 7.3 to feeling like a horse carriage of a few century's ago.
Lift is setup with lift leaf springs in the front, one add a leaf in the rear with a block, and 4 new shocks and all the other hardware included to do the lift.
I'm wondering if it's possible the springs are installed wrong, or the shocks are just that bad or if there a weird issue I've over looked.
Tire pressure is set to 35-40 psi all around on toyo open country mts, (which I was running before the lift so that hasn't changed) but I mean this is so stiff that when I hit a bump my steering wheel jerks and I feel like my suspension has absolutely no flex in it. Debating on returning to stock or not at this point...
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