Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Engine Stops After Going Downhills In 2nd Gear
Oct 7, 2014
I was pulling my trailer this week with 2 horses in. I was going downhills in 2d gear, to avoid using my breaks too much. When I reached the bottom of the hills, and I was almost at 0mph at the round-abouts, my engine stopped!
This happened twice this week, for the first time ever. Almost like if the exhaust pipes where full of gas, and forced the engine to stop or an electronic issue.
Very dangerous, I lost my assisted steering-Wheel, and my breaks... Need to what may have happened ?
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On my '99 F250 PSD 4x4 the speedometer climbs very smoothly (normal) until I hit 54mph and then it just stops going up. Reviewing other posts I have changed the DSS (differential speed/ABS sensor) and the VSS (tranny speed sensor). Disconnected both batteries for several hours to see if it would clear.
Doesn't bounce, peg, go to 0, just won't go past 54mph. No power loss. Tach continues to climb and speed continues to increase. No strange symptoms except this 54mph thing. It is completely repeatable. All fuses under the dash and hood check out ok.
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I bought a 1999 Superduty 7.3 6 speed and went out to drive it yesterday and noticed my speedometer stops working at 40mph. I saw many posts about this but no fixes. Bad cluster or vss? No abs light on dash. Still runs and shifts good. Only one yellow airbag light illuminated on dash...
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2015 F-250 Super Duty, 6.2 L Gas with 6r140 Transmission. I have 13 K miles on my truck. While pulling my travel trailer up a hill the transmission kicks down thru the gears, which is fine, but as I crest the hill and in 2nd gear, the engine begins to rev up and the speed increases, the transmission will not automatically go into3rd gear. I have tried to let up on the gas pedal, but it remains stuck in 2nd gear. I have to shift to "Manual" and then put it in 3rd gear. Then it shifts up as it should. I have tried with the transmission in "TOW' and not in "TOW". I have even tried it in "Cruise Control".
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My Bump Stops have completely dry rotted and fell off the truck. I have an 08 with a 2 inch leveling kit, I already did all the body bushings, as they disintegrated as well. Should I bother replacing them? I highly doubt that I would ever bottom out that bad that I would need them?
If I should replace them, then where did u guy's get them and should I go with the Neoprene like I did with the body bushings?
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I have a 2002 F350 v10. I have 101,000 miles on it. When the Speedometer hit 15mph it starts to climb Rapidly to a 100mph then it stops and goes to 0. My miles go blank and when I slow down to around 5mph it comes back. I do know that I have a bad clock-spring and am changing that this weekend.
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1999 F250 .. Blower works some times then for no reason stops. When it works, I have all speeds, it makes no odd noises. I shut the engine off and then it does not work. I have power to the blower motor even when it is not working. I doubt it is the speed resistor module because that is not used in high speed. I've taken the blower motor out of its housing and pulled the resistor module as well. I find nothing wrong, power it up and the blower works. I put it all back together and it does not work.
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Bought this truck a few months back. Nothing but problems. I always thought it has felt a little underpowered and hesitant. I chalked it up to being a 5.4l in a f250. Well now im thinking it has been a symptom all along.
Lately, the truck has been stalling at stops. Randomly, but not often. The truck idles at 750rpm when I start it, but after driving and then coming to a stop while in overdrive it idles at 400rpm. This seems too low to me.
It hesitates occasionally when giving it throttle. Just today it got really bad and was almost unresponsive. I would hit the throttle and it would just idle while randomly kind of shooting up in RPS and shuddering. It finally produced some error codes, it looks like, but I am afraid to drive it all the way to the autozone.
I am thinking TPS. Is the TPS attached to the pedal or is the TPS attached to throttle body under the hood? I've read some conflicting stuff about this. The good news is that if it is the TPS then it should act like a whole new truck after I replace it.
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Long time reader and first time poster, first off the truck:
1999 F-250 super duty
130,000 miles
not lifted
stock minus warn premium manual hubs ... v-10
For the past couple of years now I have had a strange grinding noise which is coming from the front end of my truck, it sounds an awful lot like if i was driving over one of the strips on the road that is made to warn drivers they are veering off the road. It first happened a couple of years ago and I took it into les schwab to have them check everything out, of course it never made the noise for them while test driving and after a visual inspection of the front end no conclusion could be made.
After about a month it completely stopped making the noise when going over bumps and i thought that "hey maybe it fixed itself!" well it did not, about 6 months after no strange noises at all it started to happen again, and once again it stopped. Now after about 8 months of it not happening it recently started again and i am determined to figure the problem out this time, it doesnt seem to be any worse of a noise or vibration but is the same as when it first started about 2 years ago. It stops when the vehicle stops, or when i switch it into 4 wheel high on the dash.
After taking it to les shwab again a few days ago they found no problems in the front end, no wheel play or noises when making tight turns (possible signs of bad wheel bearings?) and overall everything checked out well and said that the hubs do eventually need to be replaced in these. 2 days later I took it to 4 wheel parts for an inspection, after all of 10 minutes of driving they assured me that i needed new hubs and that was the cause of the problem, after installing the new hubs (warn premium manual hubs) the problem seemed to be fixed.... 3 hours of driving after the istall and no problems! Until today when I ran over a sewer drain and sure enough the grinding came back, flipped it into 4wd with a quick flip of the switch and no more noise.
I found a few similar on this board before but with no definitive solutions..... Possibilities that I have heard of that would cause this:
-- spindle bearings
-- wheel bearings
-- auto hub hydraulics
-- stock hubs (replaced)
Again this truck is all stock minus the new hubs, taking it into shops has proven to be a giant hassle because it never seems to make the grinding noise while they drive it so they check for wheel play and tell me everything seems fine.
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I have a 2000 F-250 Diesel that has started acting strangely. It starts and runs well, but every once in a while the peddle just stops working. Might be a second or so and then the RPM will go up. Or you may be running down the road and all of the sudden it just stops acting like it is getting enough fuel. Same thing it might last a second or so. Sometimes it might happen 4-5 times in a row over a few minutes and might not happen again for a day. Truck does not stall when this happens. It just does not go like it should.
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Just started having this issues on my 2012 F250 6.7 with 71K. Turn the key and no problems. Once I start my truck service advance track pops up, along with the e-brake light and some other lights before all shutting off. I then loose all functions in my instrument cluster, window controls, AC/heat controls. The truck still runs and drives with no problems I just have no dash functions. My blinkers and headlights still work (with no cluster indicating). Fog lights do not work. Turn the truck on and off and the problem repeats itself.
I did get stuck in a massive rain storm with some big puddles last night. Went to dinner and started having the problems on the way home. The functions were temperamental last night but seem to be worse today.
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I know this has been discussed but I still don't understand. Hence my "dumb blonde" user name.
I just purchased a 2013 super duty f350 extended crew cab DRW.
I also purchased a 42 foot (box is 36) Goose neck Bison LQ horse trailer. Trailer weight is 12048 and tongue weight is 4468. Fully loaded I am about 18,500.
Truck pulls and stops great but it is obvious the rear suspension is sagging.
Now what? Do I need air bags? Timbren? Spring Coils? I have called several installers and they all say something different.
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2012 F250 6.2L - AC will be working well with all fan speeds, then airflow just stops and compressor kicks out. Will run (or actually not run) that way for 4-5 minutes, then all of a sudden the compressor kicks in and airflow restarts, and air is nice and cold for another 10 minutes or so when it'll cycle off on its own again.
I've tried all different combinations of AC/MaxAC/fan speeds/and temp settings with no change in behavior. Only occurs in warm weather when AC is on; when just using heat the blower never changes on it's own and everything is great.
BTW - I've looked through all the HVAC FAQs and probably 200 different threads that come up under different search terms, but haven't seen this particular problem. If it was just lack of cooling but airflow didn't change, then it'd be easy. Or if it was only blower issues in certain speed settings, that's got lots of fixes too. But nothing where cooling and fan quit and restart on their own together that I've found.
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The electric windows in the front seem to be very lazy. When you depress the button, it goes down slowly and eventually stops halfway. Does it need a lube?
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I've got a 2006 f250 with 160,000 miles, trans was rebuilt by previous owner about 10,000 miles ago. The tow/haul light started blinking yesterday, only blinks for first couple of minutes of driving and then stops. Service engine light popped on today as well. Won't have access to a code reader until tomorrow, but looking for some preliminary info...
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So it appears as though my shift lever (automatic) will not shift into the 1st gear position? However when I drive the vehicle, the transmission seems to shift through 4 gears, then into Overdrive? What could be the issue?
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My tranny only goes to 3rd gear in 4x4 lo is that normal? 2014 6.2 xl f250 ....
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Friend's truck started shifting wierd the other day, starts in second gear (maybe higher). The transmission is a fresh rebuild, the shop wouldn't warranty the rebuild and blamed electrical problems outside the tranny. Fuses are all good, engine light is on but the cheapo code reader won't show a code. Did a search and no answers. Had the overdrive light flashing from before, that code was for a wheel speed sensor.
1999 F250 (7 bolt) 5.4L 4x4
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I just purchased a 2016 motorhome on a f53 chasis with v10 engine. The transmission has D, 4, 2, and 1. THERE is also a tow/ haul button. What gear do I put the transmission when going uphill and downhill. I am traveling in Shenandoah Valley and when I was rolling downhill the rpm began to race between 3-4k rpm without my foot on the gas pedal. Is this normal, I was in regular D mode. Going uphill I controlled my acceleration and I was at 2500 rpm. I just don't want to use incorrectly and affect my transmission and engine.
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I have a 2001 f250 7.3L. I bought it with 192,000 miles and have driven it to 206,000 in the last 6 months. When I put it in gear, the truck will "bog" down and sometimes die. I will have to refill the transmission fluid every 2 weeks but I can't find where it's leaking.
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I'm might be needing a gear box rebuilt or maybe buy one already rebuilt.
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