From reading some of the posts on here it seems this is an air bag warning. 5 chimes five times in a row. The fuze is fine and there are no warning lights on the dash.
View 5 RepliesI have randomly getting in my sd. It is an 08 f250 xl with a 5.4. randomly my truck chime at me, hence why I haven't been able to capture it on video. It will chime twice. The sound is a subtle bong, bong. It is never predictable and never affects anything, but is annoying and I am curious as to why it does it.
View 14 Replies2013 F250 4WD gas V8, auto, stripped basic truck, 72500 miles.
I'm driving back to the shop today, chimes start going off, Service Advancetrac comes up where the odometer is & starts flashing. More chimes, airbag, battery, seatbelt & a couple of other lights start flashing, & coming off & on at random. Check Brakes starts flashing where the odometer is. This gets worse & worse, more & more noise, but the truck runs fine, starts & stops fine.
Ford saw fit to not put a volt meter in, so I don't know what the battery was doing. This went on for at least 5 minutes. I finally was able to push the button to turn off the Traction Control in the split second when all the lights went out. With Traction shut off, all the noise & flashing went away.
Question: How easy is it to replace the key switch - do I need any special tools? Is there a way to upgrade to one which requires an encrypted RFID key? Or is there an easier fix to my problem below?
Background: On my '05 SD, I am getting a weird problem where the ignition switch chimes Key-In sometimes when there is no key. I can get this to go away by fidgeting with the key switch, but since I am going to be installing a remote start / security system, I need to fix this...
I have a 2000 F250 with a V10, that won't start or turn over. I replaced the solenoid on the fender well, auto store check the starter 3 times and said it was good, new battery installed and same issue of not starting.
Here is a video of what it does when attempting to start : F250 starting issue - YouTube....
Where and what to look at?
I have a 2000 f 250 that will not start... I have replaced many parts all electronic sensorsm the past week i have spent in the neighborhood of 1800.00 on this truck. Cps, icp, idm, ebps, fuel filter, new oil, hpop level good, gpr, all new need starting........
View 4 RepliesMy trouble is upon turning key to start everything goes dead (no power to anything). Does not always happen, sometimes she starts just fine.
After the power cut out if I turn key off, wait a minute, then back to on position she will sometimes come back as normal or sometimes the on "ding" will chatter and dash lights will be dim.
I have checked batt connections, starter/solenoid connections, block ground connection. All seems fine. Get same problem when I jump starter with screwdriver. Been suggested to me ignition switch to blame.
I have a '99 F-250 super duty with a 5.4 L engine and I am having trouble starting it. Initially it wouldn't turn over at all, so I had the battery checked, it was fine, and after charging it the engine would turn over very, very slowly once or twice then stop. I then replaced the starter and now it turns over very erratically but wont start.
View 4 RepliesLet me start out by saying that I have exhausted every option that I have read on every thread that I could find on the internet regarding my son's 2002 7.3L not starting. What I have is no 12v power to the starter solenoid at the starter when I crank the key. What we have done so far, had the starter and both batteries tested, all good. Swapped out the starter motor fuse and the starter relay. Tried a new ignition switch and a new trans position sensor. Found major corrosion in the fusible link junction box on the drivers inner fender so we cut out the fusible links and put in a temporary jumper wire, still no crank. I have power to the dash, power on the power cable at the starter. I can jump the terminals on the starter and the starter engages. I found the shifter linkage bolts loose under the dash and tightened them up also. We have been struggling with this for 3 days, out in the lovely Michigan weather, since it couldn't have died in his parking spot in our heated shop, and I am completely frustrated. Are we overlooking something glaringly obvious?
View 11 RepliesMy '01 f250 7.3 has gotten hard to start. It seems to maybe be due to cooler weather, but not always. I have been told that there is some sort of valve in the fuel tank that could possibly cause this when the fuel gets around a 1/4 tank or so. But, it's doing it at any fuel level. But it doesn't do it all the time. I do notice it more in cooler weather. Anyway, when I try to crank it, I'll let the "wait to start" light go off and then wait a bit more. I'll turn it over and it almost as if the batteries are weak.
I'll stop and give it a few seconds and turn it again and it will normally start. But sometimes I'll do this 5 or 6 times and it will finally fire. But the more I have to try, it's like fuel builds in the cylinders and it smoke like a coal train for a minute or so. Almost like gas motor that has been flooded. But the smoke burns off and it runs like a top. I was thinking the batteries may be weak , but sometimes the starter will spin the motor with no trouble at all. I'm at a loss. Is it possible for fuel to drain from the system causing it to have to reprime itself? Here lately the smoking has me concerned even though it clears up.
I'm in a real jam because my work truck won't start. 1999 F250 7.3 Diesel 157k mi. - Air and fuel filters were replaced in the last 500 miles. This pup ran fine when I parked it last Wednesday before the holiday.
Checked for start last night because I'd been having battery issues, Both were replaced the previous week. It's cranking good but just won't start, not even a bit. No wait to start light, oil level is good, can not get obd reader to link.
The truck starter and radio would magically turn on and off after the first rain, it was hard on the starter and I had to replace the starter and the cause of that problem was the vacuum line coming from the brake booster running over the top of the wires in the 4 plugs attached to the driver side fender. It rubbed through exposing the wires and got wet connecting them. I cleaned them and put the electrical tape silicone and then it has been working fine for a couple months.
Now every time I try to start fuse #20 blows. So far I have traced the wire that goes through fuse 20 through the firewall being the blue wire with a orange stripe on it it goes through the top plug upper left most wire. From there I followed it through the 4 wheel fender plugs the furthest plug from the firewall still being the blue with orange stripe. If I unplug that plug and try to start the truck it won't start but the fuse does not blow.
I then followed that wire all the way to the neutral safety switch. I hate tracing wires. (About 8 hours so far). I am thinking neutral safety switch. Also another thing I am thinking is weird is that blue wire with the orange stripe is grounded when the safety switch is plugged into the transmission and if it is unplugged is is not grounded. And I don't think it is supposed to be grounded because that is the hot wire when the key is in the start position.
Details about the truck : 1999 f250 diesel 7.3 super duty automatic 4x4 dated 4/99
I have taken pictures of the plugs and wires I was going to post it but don't remember how.
I have a 2002 f250 superduty 5.4 4x4 around 317xxx original motor and trans. When it's cold out it won't start at all I have to use starting fluid but once started it will start right back up. Did the plugs fuel filter cleaned the intake and sensors still have a problem plenty of fuel pressure plenty of cranking amps brand new battery and Alternator. It just cranks and cranks when it's warm out fires right up. Runs smooth no lack of power or misfire no codes are being thrown also.
View 14 RepliesSo, when trying to start my vehicle it doesn't even turn over. Just clicks continuously. Both of my batteries are putting out 12 Volts. I tried the old arcing my solenoid with a screw driver while key is in on position and I got a couple of turns, but it wouldn't completely turnover. My solenoid has power going to it. Checked all fuses that could coincide with this issue. Not sure where to go from here. I have an 05 Ford F-250 XLT.
View 7 RepliesMy battery light on the dash came on so I tested the battery and it's OK. The last time the truck was started it was 10 degrees and ran for about 3 minutes and shut off because I knew the alternator had to come out. Next I pulled the alternator and had it tested and found to be bad. It was rebuilt and put back in along with a new belt. The motor cranks over well but will not fire. I checked the fuel pump shut off switch and it had not popped up so it seemed fine. The fuses look ok. I ran the battery down a bit so I put the charger on it to bring it up to full charge. When I pulled the alternator I touched it's battery wire to metal for a split second. Sounds like I need to do a pressure test on the fuel system or listen to see if the pump is starting. The truck has 130,000 miles on it.
View 14 Repliesi just bought a 99 F250 4WD with the 5.4 in it i put a brand new starter in it. When i turn the key to try to start it, it just cranks the motor once and stops. The starter isn't grinding or clicking, the motor clicks once and move the belt and pulley a little but that's it. What would cause this?
View 13 RepliesMy 2011 F-250 diesel will not start when it gets to be about 85 to 90 degrees. In cold weather (I live in South Florida, so by "cold" I mean 50 to 70 degrees) it starts up just fine and gives no problems whatsoever. However once the summer months hit it more often than not it will not start. I've taken it to the local Ford dealer and when they run diagnostics it doesn't report any problems. I admittedly don't use the truck very often and it will at times sit for a couple months without use. Could that be a cause of the problem? What the problem might be?
View 1 RepliesMy 1999 F-250 wont start unless I use a squirt of fluid but once started it will run fine could this be my cam sensor or do I have an injector problem.
View 4 RepliesOn occasion, the last 2 weeks, my truck doesn't like to start, sometimes it will start to crank for one second and then quit. i've tried moving my gear shift through the drive selection range (park, neutral, reverse and drive). i just replaced the starter relay on the fender well because i can always start the truck by jumping across the terminals... no joy. So now ( i think) my issue is between the key switch and the starter relay. i replaced the neutral safety switch about 18 months ago.
99 F250 V10 short bed, 123,000 miles ....
We hadn't started our 2008 F250 in about 2 weeks. It got really cold the last few nights, about 10 degrees, so I thought I should start it. It started and ran for about 30 seconds, stalked, then the wrench light came on and it will not start. The truck only has 84k original miles and we just had a tune up about 8 months ago.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 F250 with 157,000 mile. Left the house last week and got about a mile down the road when I realized I had forgotten something. Pulled off to turn around and had no power to get back onto the road. RPMs wouldn't go over about 1500. Finally got it on the road and it completely shut off. Was able to get it home and have been tinkering with it. Stats from Scangauge are as follows:
Key on not cranking.
IPR 14.81%
FICM 47.6-48.0
Sync=0
ICP 32
Data while cranking.
IPR 43-47%
FICM 38-42
Sync=1
ICP 1532
I'm leaning towards a bad FICM but the ICP pressure seems to be high to me.