Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2002 F250 5.4 Won't Start In Cold
Jan 23, 2014
I have a 2002 f250 superduty 5.4 4x4 around 317xxx original motor and trans. When it's cold out it won't start at all I have to use starting fluid but once started it will start right back up. Did the plugs fuel filter cleaned the intake and sensors still have a problem plenty of fuel pressure plenty of cranking amps brand new battery and Alternator. It just cranks and cranks when it's warm out fires right up. Runs smooth no lack of power or misfire no codes are being thrown also.
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Just bought a 02 f-250 7.3 with 115k miles. A couple days after I bought it I noticed a lot of white smoke on cold starts for about 20-30 sec at 50 degree temperature. So I tested the GPR which ended up being bad a replaced with the one that is double in size(name escapes me atm) and also did the 50 cent mod to keep the through-valve cover harness from losing connection since both sides were lose.
After that the temp warmed back up and it would only blow a "puff" of white smoke. The past two days it has gotten down to 30-32 and the truck has a rough time starting. Cranks fine but it's almost like it's getting choked or flooded then it will blow smoke for 3-4 minutes after it starts. The truck does have a FASS fuel system on it with stock injectors. Should I try to Ohm out the glow plugs again or where should I start trouble shooting?
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Our 7.3 won't fire. After a few weeks of thinking we had glow plug issues on firing we feel we may have another issue instead.
In cold morning of past say -1 to -7 we have had a lot of trouble firing the old girl, we would preheat 3 or 4 times and it would wind over and over. Stop repreheat and try again and it would turn over quicker. Preheat again and it would fire.
We have a diesel leak as well and was thinking that the pressure maybe low because of it. It is now with the mechanic and he can't find the diesel leak but it pools on top of the engine and drains down the back of the motor over the belt housing.
He cleaned it all up and checked the ICP sensor and it was full of oil, he cleaned it and refuted it and it fired. He then ran it for around half an hour to see if he could spot the fuel leak, he turned it off and now it will not fire at all just turn over.
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I have been having hard shifting from 1st-2nd when cold. Rpms up to 2000 and let off then goes into 2nd. After that, she shifts fine and shifts well until next morning when she sits overnight. Build tag is August 09, 2001, so no old mechanical diode? Took a sample of fluid and it is dark red (pic attached) and smells like hydraulic fluid...I don't think it smells burned. Does it sound like the calve body 1-2 shift or solenoid pack or needing rebuild?
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I am the proud owner of a 2002 F250 Super Duty 4x4, which has 158K miles on it. I live in South Florida and use the truck as my daily driver and also from trips up into the Blue Ridge Mountains.
Recently, I noticed that when I have the A/C on it blows nice and cold for about 15 minutes, but then the air gets really warm. I had the system checked and the Freon levels are right where they should be. A bit of experimenting reveals that if I turn off the A/C for about 10 or 15 minutes after it starts to blow warm air, the systems blows cool air as it is supposed to.
Therefore, I suspect that something is freezing under the hood and preventing the system from operating properly. Since A/C is pretty well essential for us in south Florida, this is a problem, when I have the family or customers in the truck.
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When I cold start my 99 F250 7.3L PowerStroke extended cab long bed manual, I get diesel smell in & out of the cab. What is causing it?
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Let me start out by saying that I have exhausted every option that I have read on every thread that I could find on the internet regarding my son's 2002 7.3L not starting. What I have is no 12v power to the starter solenoid at the starter when I crank the key. What we have done so far, had the starter and both batteries tested, all good. Swapped out the starter motor fuse and the starter relay. Tried a new ignition switch and a new trans position sensor. Found major corrosion in the fusible link junction box on the drivers inner fender so we cut out the fusible links and put in a temporary jumper wire, still no crank. I have power to the dash, power on the power cable at the starter. I can jump the terminals on the starter and the starter engages. I found the shifter linkage bolts loose under the dash and tightened them up also. We have been struggling with this for 3 days, out in the lovely Michigan weather, since it couldn't have died in his parking spot in our heated shop, and I am completely frustrated. Are we overlooking something glaringly obvious?
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I changed the IAC valve 2 months ago because my truck kept stalling when idling down on a cold start and that fixed the problem. A few days days ago when starting it started revving to 2 - 3 K and won't IDLE down now? I changed the IAC again and that didn't work. What else should I be looking at to stop it from revving so high?
2001 F250 5.4 111,000 miles super duty.
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2002 7.3 running rough.
This is my symptoms : On cold start ups engine runs rough. Idling it knocks worse than normal on the road she runs really rough. If I get on here she smooths out ( but still runs rough a bit) but normal driving at between 1200 -2000 rpm she runs so rough it shakes the whole truck. It will do this until she gets up to operating temp & then it goes away. The more she warms up the better she runs.
Once up to temp she will run perfectly. The colder it is outside the worse it is & the longer it takes for it to go away. I have replaced the valve cover gaskers and new harnesses, new glow plugs. Still same problems. I have AE and one time it gave me a #2 cylinder code. have not been able to repete this code. What to check next.
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2002 F250 V10....
Ambient temp is 4-9 degrees
Step-son borrowed truck. I started it at 9 in the morn and moved it to a different parking spot on street. No problem starting.
Step-son came at 11 and took truck. It started no problem.
He drove it to work. At 5 p.m. would crank, but not start. A jump got it running.
On charger all night. Would not crank this morn. Would not crank even when jumped.
Are we looking at a bad battery or something else?
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Bought a 02 F250 5.4L a few weeks ago. i have replaced the coils and plugs, put in some fresh oil and some other minor things. Last weekend i drove over to my neighbors and back with no issues, until i went back out to start the truck an hour later.
The dash lights come on, but the engine wont start up. i hear a kind of whirring sound coming from a black canister under the hood on the drivers side. I cant use my code reader and I have pretty much exhausted my little piece of diagnostic knowledge. i originally thought it may have been a starter and got a fresh one ready to install but after thing about it i don't feel that's the issue.
I live in a very rural area and bringing it to a dealership would be a 150 mile round trip. What that black canister is? Why it won't start up?
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My 2000 F-250 6.8L V10 has a choppy idle during the first 30 or so seconds after a cold start up in the morning then it smooths out and drives perfectly. If I were to place the truck in gear during the choppy idle, it would not die and throttle response would be fine.
I cleaned the MAF sensor and checked the PCV elbow for cracks (no cracks). It idles at about a 1000 rpm during a cold startup then drops to about 750 rpm according to the dash tachometer. The truck has 187,000 miles on it.
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So, I have a 2007 f250 with the 6.0. When she's cold she starts fine but runs rough like she has a miss. When she warms up the miss goes away and it runs pretty good. But if I shut it off it won't start for about an hour or so.
ICP sensor has been replaced.
FICM is putting out 50v
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I have an 02 250 5.4. 103,000 miles. My truck at random times will not start in below freezing temps. Turns over just fine but Acts as if a frozen fuel line. I can get it running by pouring hot water on the fuel rail or a shot of starting fluid or sometimes both. It's been going on about 3 or 4 weeks now and I have ran through 4 bottles of dry gas with about 15 gallons each time. Also have replaced fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator. I'm 99.9% positive the pump is working and there are no leaks in the lines or holes in tank that I can see. My next step is to drop the tank and clean it out but trying to avoid that.
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I have a 2002 F250 7.3l with an aftermarket alarm. I can't read what the third letter is on the decal MV? 2000 Modular Vehicle Security. I added a pic of the alarm decal below. The key fob it had was aftermarket for the alarm and stopped working about a year ago. Today I unlocked the drivers door with the key and the lights started flashing and I can hear a clicking sound. It done this a few times back when the key fob still worked and I just kept hitting lock and unlock until it finally stopped. It won't let me start the truck at all and I have tried unhooking the batteries with no luck.
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My 2002 F250 with the 5.4 (215,000 miles) has a loud tap upon start up, only on the passenger side, heard best in the wheel well. It only lasts about 30 seconds to a minute. It occasionally rears it's head driving around town but only intermittently. Just drove it 275 miles, at 13mpg, truck runs fine, just annoying.
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Cold no start goes nowhere. I have a 2001 7.3 that will not start in the cold if I forget to plug it in....like last night. I have to plug in the block hater and give it a while before it will start. I tested the glow plug relay,it works fine. I can not find a test for the fuel bowl hear, and I'm not one to throw parts until I accidentally fix it. Any test procedure for the fuel bowl heater? Why this POS is so bad in the cold? Glow plugs tested fine at diesel shop in December, and this problem has been around since before that.
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I have a 2002 F250 7.3L and it wont start. Its been sitting for the past few days in the cold because the batteries were shot but was plugged in the whole time. I replaced the batteries today and even poured diesel 911 5 hours before trying to start it in case the fuel was gelled. It cranks fine but just wont turn over.
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My 2002 F250 7.3 randomly dies while driving and seems to only be when I hit a bump no matter the size. I have checked the valve cover harness connector outside of the valve covers and they look fine. I checked the ECM connection took it off and reconnected it.
Changed the CPS censor twice, checked the ICP sensor, checked continuity of all the glow plugs through the valve cover harness. Checked the fuel pump, checked all related fuses, changed the fuel filter, checked glow plug relay, batteries hold good voltage and were recently upgraded to bigger batteries.
Engine runs just a little rough but not enough to be of concern. Air filter is clean and oil level is perfect. What could possible be causing my truck to randomly die when it hits a bump and not start back right away??? This truck is new to me and its the first diesel engine I have ever owned.
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I can't seem to get the engine temp to middle range on the marker, but yet my heater blows "to me" hot air. Even while sitting in idle for extended amounts of time I cannot get it to "operating" temperature. I would think if my thermostat was stuck open my heater would blow either cold or slightly warm air. I have the 5.4L engine with knn air filter and no cats.
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I have a 2011 F250 with ac problems. When you start it in the morning and turn the ac on it only takes a small amount of time for the air to start cooling. If you turn the truck off then start it again after driving to town the ac blows hot air out up to 4 minutes (yes I timed it) before it starts cooling. I took it to a local repair shop and the first time they said it only had half the freon it needed. The charged it and off I went. Same problem. The second time they informed me the fan clutch was not engaging and replaced it. I picked it up and the first time it was turned off and back on it had the same problem. I am scheduled to take it back to the same repair shop on Monday.
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