Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2002 F250 Not Firing In Cold Morning
Jul 14, 2017
Our 7.3 won't fire. After a few weeks of thinking we had glow plug issues on firing we feel we may have another issue instead.
In cold morning of past say -1 to -7 we have had a lot of trouble firing the old girl, we would preheat 3 or 4 times and it would wind over and over. Stop repreheat and try again and it would turn over quicker. Preheat again and it would fire.
We have a diesel leak as well and was thinking that the pressure maybe low because of it. It is now with the mechanic and he can't find the diesel leak but it pools on top of the engine and drains down the back of the motor over the belt housing.
He cleaned it all up and checked the ICP sensor and it was full of oil, he cleaned it and refuted it and it fired. He then ran it for around half an hour to see if he could spot the fuel leak, he turned it off and now it will not fire at all just turn over.
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My v10 has a cold miss when i start it in the morning no matter what the temp. It misses until it gets up to operating temp.then it runs fine all day with a slight miss.
- Changed plugs,
- Changed pcv,
- Changed iacv,
- Cleaned map sensor,
- Changed tube to pcv,
No codes. Its running as if it had a carb and the choke is closed. No smoke, tach. idles between 750 down to about 500, until it warms up then tach. Stays steady.
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I have a 2002 f250 superduty 5.4 4x4 around 317xxx original motor and trans. When it's cold out it won't start at all I have to use starting fluid but once started it will start right back up. Did the plugs fuel filter cleaned the intake and sensors still have a problem plenty of fuel pressure plenty of cranking amps brand new battery and Alternator. It just cranks and cranks when it's warm out fires right up. Runs smooth no lack of power or misfire no codes are being thrown also.
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I have been having hard shifting from 1st-2nd when cold. Rpms up to 2000 and let off then goes into 2nd. After that, she shifts fine and shifts well until next morning when she sits overnight. Build tag is August 09, 2001, so no old mechanical diode? Took a sample of fluid and it is dark red (pic attached) and smells like hydraulic fluid...I don't think it smells burned. Does it sound like the calve body 1-2 shift or solenoid pack or needing rebuild?
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I am the proud owner of a 2002 F250 Super Duty 4x4, which has 158K miles on it. I live in South Florida and use the truck as my daily driver and also from trips up into the Blue Ridge Mountains.
Recently, I noticed that when I have the A/C on it blows nice and cold for about 15 minutes, but then the air gets really warm. I had the system checked and the Freon levels are right where they should be. A bit of experimenting reveals that if I turn off the A/C for about 10 or 15 minutes after it starts to blow warm air, the systems blows cool air as it is supposed to.
Therefore, I suspect that something is freezing under the hood and preventing the system from operating properly. Since A/C is pretty well essential for us in south Florida, this is a problem, when I have the family or customers in the truck.
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Just bought a 02 f-250 7.3 with 115k miles. A couple days after I bought it I noticed a lot of white smoke on cold starts for about 20-30 sec at 50 degree temperature. So I tested the GPR which ended up being bad a replaced with the one that is double in size(name escapes me atm) and also did the 50 cent mod to keep the through-valve cover harness from losing connection since both sides were lose.
After that the temp warmed back up and it would only blow a "puff" of white smoke. The past two days it has gotten down to 30-32 and the truck has a rough time starting. Cranks fine but it's almost like it's getting choked or flooded then it will blow smoke for 3-4 minutes after it starts. The truck does have a FASS fuel system on it with stock injectors. Should I try to Ohm out the glow plugs again or where should I start trouble shooting?
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I have a 2001 f250 5.4 triton. My cb antenna hole leaked water in cab, soaked my fuse block. Horn goes on and off, radio turns on without key in ignition, truck only starts when key is on and I bridge solenoid, and number 4 coil is not firing. I have let truck dry out, fixed the leak. Everything is bad to normal except starting issue and coil issue.
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Went to start my 99 F250 SD this morning and I got a series of 5 warning beeps. Kept repeating this for 5-6 times? What's up with that?
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I can't seem to get the engine temp to middle range on the marker, but yet my heater blows "to me" hot air. Even while sitting in idle for extended amounts of time I cannot get it to "operating" temperature. I would think if my thermostat was stuck open my heater would blow either cold or slightly warm air. I have the 5.4L engine with knn air filter and no cats.
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I have a 2011 F250 with ac problems. When you start it in the morning and turn the ac on it only takes a small amount of time for the air to start cooling. If you turn the truck off then start it again after driving to town the ac blows hot air out up to 4 minutes (yes I timed it) before it starts cooling. I took it to a local repair shop and the first time they said it only had half the freon it needed. The charged it and off I went. Same problem. The second time they informed me the fan clutch was not engaging and replaced it. I picked it up and the first time it was turned off and back on it had the same problem. I am scheduled to take it back to the same repair shop on Monday.
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I have a 2002 f250 4.2 diesel with a 5 speed manual box and i want to put a 7.3 in it. Does it fit?and can i make the 5 speed tranny fit?
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I have a 1999 F250 7.3 Diesel and my AC isn't working properly. On Max AC as you're driving it would be ok and then it would be warm and then cold and then warm and then cold and so on. I've noticed that the clutch stays engaged as well. I've never seen it disengage. The freon is at the level it needs to be. Then just a few days ago, if you have it on Max and High the air disappears from the vents and you hear a noise somewhere in the dash on the passenger side. I think something might have come off?? What's wrong with my AC with it going from cold to warm constantly? I heard that maybe clutch has too big of a gap?? I have almost 200,000 miles on it.
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I have 1700 miles on my truck and the A/C cycles between cold and warm air. I have taken it to 2 Ford dealers and they agree there is something wrong but their tests are apparently up to Ford specs. They logged complaints with Ford and they were told this was by design with the new trucks and it was normal for the compressor to constantly cycle. New 2013??
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When I cold start my 99 F250 7.3L PowerStroke extended cab long bed manual, I get diesel smell in & out of the cab. What is causing it?
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2002 F250 SD 4x4 crew cab, v10. 4x4 not working. Replaced switch on dash, not the problem. Some of told me it was the vacuum control module. Not sure where to start.
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Background : 2002 Excursion 7.3L, 320k miles ...
AC was working OK, but not great. Then AC stopped blowing cold at all. Checked pulley, gap was huge, but pulley bearing was completely destroyed. Like, 1/2" wobble, half the ball bearings in there. Amazed it hadn't seized. Replaced pulley, set air gap to bottom of the spec.
Air seems to blow kinda cold briefly, then fades to no cooling after a couple minutes. Same at idle or moving. Front and rear both not cold. Lines in engine bay are cool, but not real cold
Compressor body feels hot, like...right at that threshold of too hot to touch. Don't have pressure gauges, but will buy/borrow some and take some readings.
What would symptoms of a clogged orifice tube be? What would symptoms of a clogged condenser be? If low on r134, I could refill, but any tips on chasing down leaks?
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The truck starts up fine. then after a minute or so it starts to spit and sputter and back fire through the intake then dies.
What could cause this? Intake manifold gasket leak?
Will a clogged fuel filter cause this?
5.4 ....
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I changed the IAC valve 2 months ago because my truck kept stalling when idling down on a cold start and that fixed the problem. A few days days ago when starting it started revving to 2 - 3 K and won't IDLE down now? I changed the IAC again and that didn't work. What else should I be looking at to stop it from revving so high?
2001 F250 5.4 111,000 miles super duty.
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I have a 2006 Ford F-250 coolant leak only when the truck is cold. Ive noticed it in the morning when I leaving for work. It looked liked it was coming from the passenger side yesterday and today it's on the drivers side when I'm sure is because my driveway has a small tilt to it I've looked everywhere I could under the hood and don't see it leaking.
I don't have any temp problems or white smoke and my coolant level has changed that much and for a few days the drip stopped now it's back. I tried to search for the answer but can't find it. I'm just wanted to make sure it's not the head gasket but I'm sure I would have a sign it it was. I will include where I saw it dripping from. It's parked on flat ground here ... That's where I saw a drip coming from driver side ....
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My 2000 F250 SD 5.4 AWD's A/C wouldn't blow cold suddenly the other day. I confirmed the A/C relay (engine compartment, 3rd down from firewall)was "clicking" but compressor clutch was obviously not engaging with dash switch on Max A/C and engine running. When I take of the 2 wire connector to compressor to see if it is getting power, the truck won't start..if I disconnect the A/C compressor plug while running, the engine similarly quits. I have never had another vehicle do this on me before..I could unplug the compressor on my Jeep GC, for instance, measure 12+ volts with A/C ON w/car running and no problem with Jeep engine turning off.
I have searched for A/C wiring schematic w/o success. I checked every fuse in cab/engine for continuity since I don't know which ones might deal with A/C..jumped hi/lo pressure switch connectors with engine running/A/C ON w/o compressor clutch engaging. Clutch turns easily, have banged it a few times, and air gap looks good. More bizarrerly, I hooked the compressor to a 12V/ground via its 2 male prongs and didn't get the clutch to engage.
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The heater blows cold air from the driver side only. Very cold. Vey hot on passenger side.I have read that this is likely a blend door issue. Comments? Fluids are full. I hear slight noises from under the dash like "click click" like a door is trying to activate?? Truck out of warranty. If it is the door I heard the driver side is not as tough to install. Again comments? Instructions?
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