I don't know if this is even a problem or not. Do the front brakes get hot on the one ton dualy? I wouldn't have even noticed it except when I went to the car wash, when I sprayed water on the tires and rims to wash them, I noticed steam coming off the front brakes. Think I have a problem or not? I can put it into "drive" and it rolls freely. It doesn't feel like anything is sticking.
View 3 RepliesI use a bottle hanging like an I.V. drip to flush the Brake Fluid in all my cars. I can pump all the old fluid out, as well as the air. My Superduty 7.3 has a good solid brake pedal after the flush. It seems to me the rear brakes handle 60% of the stopping load. Its been like this for so long I'm not sure if it's ever been different. i then go to a gravel or wet road and test the rear abs, and it seems o work, but definitely has a squirrely feel. I did some strong pavement stops with speed, and it stops, no skidding. Is that the way it should be?
View 14 RepliesTruck pulls to the left while braking, pretty bad. So, pulled the front right wheel off thinking the pins are stuck again as last year. Bottom pin was fine, top pin pretty gummed up but not froze so I cleaned it up good, used thin layer of the good stuff, put back together and test drove........same thing. Pulls left upon braking just as bad as before. Caliper pistons seemed fine, didn't take much to compress them either.
View 8 Replieswas going to do a brake job on my f250 light duty and the rotors won't come off. At first I thought they were rusted on but after looking at them it looks like the studs are attached to the rotor. Need to confirm this because the new rotors I got don't have the hub attached. Don't know if it's the wrong part or what?
View 9 RepliesI have a 2007 F350 XLT, Super Cab, chassis cab, V-10, 4x4. I ordered it new, it now has 97,000 miles. It is equipped with a 9' aluminum flatbed. I tow it behind my motorhome and also carry a truck camper (not when towing it!).
I don't think the front brakes are working 100%. I have 2 sets of wheels and tires (19.5s for hauling the camper). Every time I change over, I check the brake pads for wear. Over the first 80,000 miles there was very little wear on the rear pads. In 2014 I had almost a complete brake failure while traveling. I took it to a Ford dealer, and they determined the brake booster was bad. They replaced the booster and flushed the brake system. I didn't think the brakes felt right afterward, but I carried on. By 95,000 miles, the rear brakes were worn out. I feel like the rear brakes are doing most of the stopping now, thus wearing out much faster than they were.
I just ordered a set of service manuals for the truck (9.5 years late on that!) hoping to figure out something. I like the truck, it meets my needs, and I hope to keep it quite a while longer. I took it in to the local dealer to replace a leaking rear pinion seal. They found and replaced the worn pads. I trust them to the extent that the pads were worn, as I had already noticed an acceleration in wear. Local dealer that replaced the pads has no idea what could be up. They did clean and lube the front calipers at the same time, but I noticed no difference in brake feel. Stopping power is definitely worse than before the brake failure/ booster replacement.
What might cause this? The only things that come to my mind is a problem with the proportioning valve or maybe the master cylinder. I don't know much about the details of the ABS system. Is there anyway that might be causing the issue? I would rather not just start throwing parts at the problem...
Truck is 2007 6.0L 4 door F-250 FX4
So this started after some High water encounters around my area. All freshwater. Went to the store and then i notice the truck pulling Left and got home and checked brake temps and the driver front and rear were over 400*F passenger side was 150* or less. No trailer no load in the bed. I decided to clean everything. Pads are worn but still have life.
Rotors showed some signs of where the pad is dragging Not bad though just a small area close to the top hat. I cleaned pads, carriage, and clips and reinstalled everything with some anti seize on the edges of the pads where the clips are and at the same spots on the carriage.
Thought it was ok but the after more water and a day or two sitting the same thing happened again. It is only the drivers side and it's both front and rear. I am stumped on this one. Two calipers going bad at once? I need to tow a boat on Monday So I have got to fix this.
Problem started with the front end shaking a little bit when braking like the rotors needed turning. Then the brakes began to intermittently hum when stopping. Then my ABS light came on. Put the truck up on the stands and disassembled the brakes on both sides. The ABS sensor was chewed up on the driver side. The less than year old hub felt sloppy so I changed it. Put everything back together.
New hub came with new ABS sensor. Went for a test drive ABS light is gone and I no longer shake or experience the hum when applying the brakes. However now when I go to stop right before I come to a complete stop the driver side (new hub/spindle side) I hear what sounds like the grade school class clown making a fart sound with his mouth, and the truck pulls to the driver side. Is the ABS system malfunctioning or is this a caliper issue? Calipers look like they are OEM.
2011 F-350 XL, I can hear a squeal coming from the front brakes when rolling forward slowly, believe the pads are dragging on the rotors. If I touch the brake pedal the squeal stops as it does when I turn the wheel. Took the calipers off and greased the slide pins and put it all back together, still got the squeal. What don't I know???
View 9 RepliesMy 18 year old launched the little wire spring thing that applies pressure for the brake pads on front disc brakes. Could have gone in to neighbor's yard! Actually lost one on each side. He put it all back together without one on each side. I said it would still work fine. What's the deal really? Can't be that important are they?
View 14 RepliesA couple of times recently my brakes have been very hot when I stopped. I took it to my mechanic who took it for a drive and then used an IR thermometer to measure the rotor temps. The front right and rear left rotors were at least 40 degrees higher than their opposites on the same axle. He believes it is probably the master cylinder..
View 8 Replies1999 F-250 4x4 PSD, 160k miles. Sometimes, at low speed like 5mph or less, when braking the brakes are almost gone and one can feel the stiff pedal coming back up when stepping on it hard to make the truck stop. The ABS is set to not kick in at this low speed, right? Truck throws no code and shows no warning lights (ABS light in dash works with key on-engine off) when this happens. Pull the related ABS fuse and problem goes away. Where to look?
View 11 RepliesRead alot about a brake sticking and changing out the caliper or the pin or the hose but did not come accross a problem with all four sticking. When I leave in the morning brakes are fine and once the heat up all four get supper hot when I get to my destination and the truck is very sluggish, the brakes are sticking and it is all four. Changed the calipers on all four but did not work. Changed a brake line (not hose) that was rusting out, did nothing. I am leaning towards the master and its valve because all four are effected.
View 14 RepliesMy Superduty has been pulling to the left when I hit the brakes for a few months now. In the past it's done it, like within a year or two after buying it brand-new off the lot, but that was because one brake pad had rusted itself to the bracket and was not doing a darn thing. Once or twice more, it was a stuck caliper pin, which was quite obvious when working on it.
Last year, around August, I replaced the rotors and pads with Advanced Auto parts stuff. Rotors are still great, pads look brand-new, and it wasn't pulling up until the past month or two.
But this most recent pulling has been a problem that I can't find. It's not the pins, it's not the pads, and now I find out, it wasn't the calipers
This past weekend I went so far as to replace the calipers with Napa rebuilt "semi-loaded" calipers (all hardware and pins and bracket, except for the pads) and pressure-bleed the entire system. The old fluid was green, not black, but now that it's been bled, the pedal is a bit firmer than it was.
I wasn't going to replace the calipers without checking them first, but I broke both bleed nipples off and I wasn't about to wrestle with an easy-out and try to get the darn things out. Per side, rebuilt caliper with hardware and bracket, can't go wrong. (Checking the calipers would have involved using a C-clamp to compress the caliper slightly, then backing off the C-clamp - if the pistons come back out a slight degree, they are free and the seals are still "grabby" and resilient).
While bleeding it, I saw a piece of black crud (rubber?) about 2-3mm in size come out of the left side. Didn't think much of it, figured it was just built up crud from somewhere.
Today, the first commute after doing the calipers and bleeding, it's still pulling just like it was before the calipers. However, I did notice at one point when I hit them, they pulled like they normally do, but seemed to go straight a few seconds into it. It does seem that if I keep my foot on the brake, the pulling is much less after the initial second or two, but if I stab them again, it pulls like crazy.
And by "pull" I mean the steering wheel actually moves in my hand. So with that in mind, it's actually a front-brake problem. If it was the rears, the wheel wouldn't pull like it does, and if it was something loose in the suspension, I would have found it already after checking everything, and it again, wouldn't pull the steering wheel like that.
Now, given that black piece of whatever that came out of the left side, I'm beginning to wonder... if it was rubber from the inside of the hose.
Is the right brake hose causing the pulling because it's coming apart just like the left one might be?
I've gone over and over this in my head this morning, and thought about the ABS unit possibly dumping pressure from the right because of a leaky valve (see side note below), but I would think that once the pedal stab was over, it would even out and not pull at all.
However, this thing pulls left quite a bit, even after the pedal has been held down for quite some time. Usually. Sometimes, it subsides and doesn't pull. But mostly it does no matter what I do, keep pressure on the pedal, let up and reapply, whatever.
Does this really sound like a bad hose? It's intermittent, but usually pulls like 90% of the time.
Side note: The ABS unit in my truck, and most Fords of the time (not sure about later than 2004 or so) is a Kelsey-Hayes three-channel unit like this:
Kelsey-Hayes RWAL Antilock Brakes
It's the same system found in Chevy Suburbans and light-trucks, which I have worked on before and know a bit about.
In my case, it can't be a dump valve leaking, because it would effect pedal-height and not PULL to one side like it does. The only way that could happen is if the isolation valve was closed, AND the dump valve were leaking at the same time.
I haven't, however, gotten the ABS to activate just to see if it changes anything. On my way home tonight I will see if I can find some dirt or sand and get it going
Driving home from work yesterday, dry roads, truck unloaded, running around 50mph, had a dog almost run out in front of me. I hit the brakes hard and came to a stop. But, I noticed that my brakes did not lock up the tires. This was a bit of a surprise. My former 2003 Cummins would easily lock them up. Is my truck an anomaly? Can lock up your tires during a hard/panic stop?
View 14 RepliesGot a POP noise when I hit the brakes. I have to apply some pressure for it to make the sound. Does it once when going forward. Doesn't do it again until I drive a few minutes, then it does it again.
If I go back and forth between reverse and drive, it does it every time as I hit the brakes, but only once until reversing direction again.
Takes some moderate pedal pressure to make the noise. If I turn the steering wheel to either side, it doesn't make the noise.
I've gone over the brakes, nothing there is wrong, and besides it wouldn't go away when I turn the wheel. Nothing is loose in terms of tie-rod ends, wheel bearings, nothing.
It's not bad enough yet to be able to see movement in the ball joints when the wheels are off the ground. Is this the ball joints?
Got a problem with my F350 diesel truck's braking system. I pull a 5th wheel and last trip almost burned my breaks up coming down long hill due to having no breaks on the 5th wheel. Had a problem early on with the lack of trailer brakes and module was replaced under warranty. Bought a new module this time and it did not fix the problem. Have braking power when I use the module brakes (Hand) but not when I hit the foot brakes. Have checked the system with a meter and have good voltage with hand break but not with foot brakes. Have a good meter (voltage) read with hand breaks and faint read with foot brakes applied. Also have a faint pulsing read on test light with no brakes at all just key on.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1999 f250 super duty, that was wrecked a few months ago. I have put the truck back together with the mechanic. The front drivers side was wrecked. The power steering fluid tank was cracked and had to be replaced. Also had problems with a box behind the drivers headlight? I did hard wire it together and it fixed the problems I was having the the speedometer and the transmission not shifting correctly. Everything is put back together now but I drove it today and the brakes locked down after driving it a few miles?
Had to push the truck hard to get it back to my house, a mile or so. If I let off the gas it would come to a quick stop. It is ALL four brakes locking up. If it sits for awhile they unlock but will lock up again after driving. The truck is lifted and the ABS light has come on. It was not on before but i am pretty sure the ABS is disabled on the truck. The wires are hanging down by each tire. This is how they truck was when i bought it. Not sure what is causing the brakes to lock up.
Bought my truck in April and it has basically sat in my driveway until I sell one of my other vehicles. I've started it every 2-3 weeks and let it run for about 1/2 hour each time. I've had to charge the batteries once (about 2 months ago) when they were low and wouldn't start the truck.
I've also moved it out of the driveway several times (about 50 feet - moving forward and reversing) when having to make room for other vehicles. I noticed last weekend when I started it up, there was a bit of a whine coming from under the hood ... it wasn't too loud. I didn't move it that time ... just let it warm up ... again for a 1/2 hour.
This morning I went to move it again for a service vehicle. It was cool outside (about 32 degrees). There was a loud moaning and groaning this time every time I moved the steering wheel. I sat on the street idling and the same moaning happened when I touched the brakes and didn't move the steering wheel. The steering also felt stiffer than usual (although I don't have a good feel for "normal" as I haven't really driven this truck except when I brought it home in April covering 1,000 miles ... it had no symptoms or issues then).
I'm hoping it's just from sitting so long without really being driven but I'm feeling that something is binding or perhaps there is a problem with the power steering.
Buddy has a problem on his '03 F-450 cab and chassis. When he turns on a turn signal, everything is OK...but it goes out when he applies the brakes. Also, the brake failure light is lit up on the dash, despite the brakes being fine. These problems happened at the same time. I'm think a ground, but not sure where to look.
View 5 RepliesMy 2012 f350 6 lift when I push the brakes it pulls to the left kinda bad and the steering wheel is off to the right..
View 4 RepliesI have a 2000 F250 SD 4x4. I noticed the other day that after driving the truck for 10 miles or more and then stopping and getting back in it feels like the parking brake is on. I drove the truck home and on my way back I smelled brakes burning but it wasn't pulling while driving or braking. When I got home I put my head in the wheel well to get a look at the brakes on the drivers side it seemed ok, but when I did it on the passenger side it was hot as Hades! It's been my experience that if the caliper is hanging up it will pull either while braking or regular driving. I just want a better idea before I go ahead and buy a new caliper and hose and tear the dang thing apart.
View 8 Replies