I see an oil stain on/surrounding the lower half of what I'm guessing is the PTO cover on the side of my manual transmission. (rectangular plate bolted to side of tranny) I couldn't find a gasket at any autoparts stores. Is there a gasket or did Ford just use a sealer? Would red RTV work ok here instead of a gasket? Or should I use something else?
2004 F250 SuperDuty 4x4 CC, V10, 6 speed manual tran
So I have an 05 f350 5.4 with the shift on the fly and the auto/manual locking hubs.. I already know I have a leak with the vacuum and I just use the hubs manually, then shift on the fly to activate the transfer case.
I went to use the 4wd the other night in a snow storm and I have no 4wd, light on the dash comes on and i can hear the transfer case clicking in when i hit the switch between 2wd and 4wd.
So I got under the truck while it was on the ground and manually locked the passenger side, Then tried spinning the axle and it wont spin freely, so obviously its locked.
Tried the same thing on the driver side and the axle spins freely while the hub is locked, So obviously the locking part of the hub is no good... So i guess my question is, even with just 1 wheel locking in the front, shouldn't I pretty much get 3wd? or am i missing something...will it not engage at all because both sides arent locked?
I am changing my 99 f250 4x4 from auto to manual tranny. I am just looking for pics of where the hydro line runs. I don't want line rubbing something and ruining line. Like does line run under the cab wiring harness? Like between wiring and firewall? Where on firewall does reservior get mounted usually? Are the holes all ready there for it that I am not seeing?
View 1 RepliesI am new to being an F250 owner. Just recently purchased a 2000 F250 SD 4x4 with the 5.4 and a 5 speed trans. Got a pretty good deal on it, because I knew some work had to be put into it, and do plan on dropping the trans. Currently, if the truck has been sitting for a little bit, not cool, but not running for a little bit, when I start it, whether it is in gear or in neutral, there is a noise coming from what seems to be the clutch area.
After a couple minutes of driving, this noise goes away and all sounds as it should. A little bit of researching turned up the possibility of the throw out bearing being bad, however, I found other posts online that doubt this. Another symptom that I assume is connected is that if I go to put it in reverse at 0mph from neutral, it grinds.
In order to go into reverse, I have to press in the clutch, put it in first, then put it in reverse, at which point it goes in no problem. I had already planned on replacing the clutch because it seems to me that would be the logical choice as to where the problem originates, so no issue there. But perhaps I'm wrong??
I have a 2008 Ford F250 V-10 Superduty and recently I had a transmission cooler line start to leak. I ordered replacement lines and the tool for the quick disconnect. The line that's leaking is from the radiator to the quick disconnect. I was able to replace the one line, however the second line (problem area) has been a nightmare. The line cracked right at the quick disconnect fitting.
The hard line is tight in the fitting and corroded. broke the tool trying to remove from disconnect. The line is flush with the quick disconnect. How to get that out of the fitting? or another method of fix? Its a hard 1/2 line going into connect crimped to rubber line going to transmission.
I have a 2001 F250 Super Duty 5.4 Triton motor with a Transmission Leak. I have drained the Transmission, replaced the Transmission pan gasket and filter. The auto parts store also had me purchase the Torque Converter bearings/seal along with enough transmission fluid and a bottle of Lukas Transmission fix. Do I really need to replace the bearings/seal if I have everything else already ?
View 2 RepliesMade a short run to get lumber yesterday and when I got home the truck smelled hot I checked it out and found a transmission oil leak at the rear of the transmission in front of the transfer case. can not really see what is leaking only has 22,000 miles. What may have happen. 2011 F250 4x4 6.7....
View 14 RepliesNoticed a small oil spot on my drive way where i park my truck the other day. Got up underneath and saw it was leaking from a rectangular rubber grommet on the front of the transmission bell housing.
What could be causing this? Have heard a few different things, turbo line leak, turbo pedistals, HPOP leak. Seeing what Super Duty Nation thought of the problem. Going to the dealer sometime this week.
I just recently had to replace the extension housing on my truck. Well after doing so I went to start it up and top off the tranny fluid and it started to leak out on the left rear side of the transmission near the extension housing. Ive looked and looked and found that the fluid is coming from the top right in front of the extension housing but when i clean it off there seams to be no holes or cracks. It isn't the housing seal, cause it pools in front of that. What could be the issue? My truck is a 01 F250 4X4 5.4L.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2000 F350, Turbo diesel with 223 000 miles. 6 speed manual transmission will not shift into reverse or low.
View 14 RepliesI'm replacing the passenger side manual hub on my '04 F250. I did a brake job last year and I'm sure I cleaned/inspected/lubed the hubs. I can't seem to get this one out. I have the snap ring out and with a rubber mallet, I can get it wiggle just a little. I've loaded up around where the snap ring went with penetrating oil.
Am I missing something? It's just a snap ring and the hub should just pull out, right?
Just bought a nice little project 1999 4X4. 100k miles and overall decent condition.
One of the first things to tackle is the driver's front hub has no manual 4x4 locking mechanism like on the passenger side. Is this a tough job?
Attached is the picture of the hub & missing lock setup. (Can't upload...).
I just ordered '00 F250 SC 4x4 SWB XLT with the factory standard manual hubs. The hubs show up on the vehicle order confirmation as code "21M MAN LOCKING HUB". I can't find this code in the ordering guides anywhere but kbb.com shows this code as "Manual hubs delete. Required with 213 shift-on-the-fly". I want the manual hubs. I think ##### is incorrect. For my piece of mind, could someone who has also ordered the factory standard manual hubs verify that the code is indeed 21M. And for those who ordered shift-on-the-fly, could you verify that 21M does NOT show up on your order confirmation...
View 8 RepliesI just purchased an F-350 with manual locking hubs. I am unsure if I can keep these locked in for part time four wheel driving or I need to unlock them each time I go back to two wheel drive?
View 6 RepliesMy rear end cover has been leaking and I don't have time to fix it right now. I was going to check the oil and maybe add some if needed but I cant find anywhere to ad oil or check it? Am I missing something? The add plug is the one Id like to find.
View 2 RepliesTorque on the differential cover bolts, 2016 F250?
View 6 RepliesI have a 99 F-250 superduty and my rear diff cover is pretty rotted and i need to replace it. I am on a college budget and i need a cheap one that will get the job done...
View 7 RepliesChanging from manual windows to power? I don't want to swap doors because of the repaint issue but wondered what is involved, if it's even possible. I just read how to convert the rear windows on a Super Cab to power and it got me wondering about the front.
View 2 RepliesI have a2011 f-250 in my fleet, manual a/c and just the other day it shut off like a switch, when you start the truck it comes on and the buttons all work but after 6 seconds it goes dead, no lights, no blower nothing, everything else works fine. I have also noticed when you first start when the radio goes from the station to the clock thats when the climate unit shuts off. talked to the dealer they said they never sell and control heads and i doubt its that cause it works on first start.
View 6 RepliesI just bought a 2011 F250 Super Duty 6.2L and the manual A/C buttons were stuck on Max A/C and wouldn't change. I fiddled with every switch on the dash thinking it might be a stuck switch and eventually all the buttons started working. This truck has SYNC, which works fine, and I can't find anything else wrong with the truck.
When the buttons are lit, it blows good and cold, in A/C and Max A/C. The problem I'm having now is that they won't light up at all. Visual inspection shows nothing obvious under the hood, and it has a charge of freon. I drove and it id working just fine, but stuck on the Max setting. I'm thinking electrical gremlins, like stuck switch or a relay...
My manual hubs on my 2006 f250 have become very hard to rotate so I would like to replace them. I saw that bronco graveyard has Warn hubs for a Dana 60 front axle. Is this what I need? My door sticker with the axle code is illegible, and I want to make sure I get the right hubs.
View 5 Replies