I have a 2001 f250 5.4 that when you turn the heat on the trucks motor and exhaust bog down for a few seconds then comes right back up...
View 4 RepliesI'm a new Powestroke Diesel owner. I recently (Dec. 2012) picked up a 2008 F-350 Crew Cab, DRW, 4x2 with a 6.4l automatic. Love the truck. Lots of power. Runs great. My question is; while driving, every couple of days the "cleaning exhaust filter" message comes up on the display for about 10 secs. I understand what that message means and what the truck is doing. What I don't understand is, why does the truck seem to run like crap after? It seems to be down a little on power and the idle surges until I shut it off and restart and then everything is fine.
It doesn't matter how long it runs after the DPF cleaning message displays. Also, three times now since I purchased it it has shown a different message, "drive to clean exhaust filter" followed by "cleaning exhaust filter". This message will stay on for many minutes. What is the difference between messages? Is the truck doing anything different? Is it ok to shut the truck off while either of those messages are displayed? The first time it happened I drove around for 15 minutes or so afraid to shut it off! Unfortunately the truck is obviously used and the owners manual was missing.
I recently purchased this truck and have towed a couple of times with it. It has 98,000 miles and I do not know if the automatic transmission fluid has been changed. Should I have it flushed or drop the pan and change it? I have a lift so doing the change is no problem, although it might be worth it to pay a transmission shop to do it.
Also, I hear what appears to be like a heat shield rattle or something that sounds kinda like an exhaust leak during loaded acceleration. What to look for to locate the noise? One last question, the air bag light is on sometimes then off sometimes. Any known air bag light issues? I love the truck, hate the gas mileage!
Need better understanding of the wiring and turn signal selector than I do in my 07 6.0 HD. At first the issue started with the right front and right mirror blinking fast indicating a burnt out rear right turn signal. However after a few seconds the right rear will start working and the speed would be normal. I noticed it worse on very wet days making me think the rear tail light was letting in water and messing with the bulb. But it turns out it does it on nice days too.
These days it has evolved into the turn signal sometimes taking a few seconds before any of the right side actually starts to flash, also sometimes the indicator does not automatically deactivate after a right turn.
Giving the bottom of the steering column a calibrated tap usually always fixes the issue until the next turn.
Assuming its a bad turn signal selector switch Part number YL3T-13K359-ABJAEA but not knowing the wiring diagram I dont see how this bad switch would intermittently stop controlling the right rear turn signal. I would guess that it would tell the flasher left or right, not which lefts and which rights.
Recently got a 2003 f 250 6.0 that has had a little work done on it. Absolutely love it with 1 exception. When I turn on the ac or heat It blows a 10 amp fuse that goes to the blower relay. It was occasionally now it's all the time.Blower ok, fan speed resistor ok. What or where to look.
View 8 RepliesJust noticed something funny yesterday while flushing my radiator. I have an 04 F350 with the 6.0. When I have the heat set to come out both high and low vents, the A/C compressor also kicks on. The pipes by the passenger side firewall get cold. If I set the heat to just come out high or low, it turns off. This is not with the defroster on. Why does this happen? Is it supposed to happen?
View 5 RepliesI bought a used 99 f250 v10, i went to turn on the a/c today, and it only blows where the defrost is toward the window. it gets cold after awhile, but nothing out the vents, the heat either.
View 9 Replies2002, F250, 5.4, ZF6, 140k.
My heat only blows through the defroster. I was looking for my vacuum pump, but can't seem to find it. I find plenty of diesel threads where they show it, but mine isn't in the same location. I can actuate the diverter by hand and it will make the heat stop at the defroster and come out at your feet.
I have attached images of my rig.
Were to look for the vacuum pump? Any key spots to look for failed vacuum lines? What is this?
This is where most threads say the vacuum pump should be.
This switches from defrost to floor when operated manually.
My heater stopped working.
View 9 RepliesI have an F-250 Ford, 2006, 6.0 turbo-diesel. Started noticing that my heat only works while running at 70 mph or more and the turbo is at around 15-20 psi. Now that it has gotten cold it is definitely an issue. Truck does not overheat, I am not able to feel heat on the hose after control vlave and I do not feel any vacuum on the line (grey) to the control valve. I have checked for leaks, changed out the fill cap, checked anti-freeze level, pulled control valve just to verify its position when opened (which it seems to stay open). It's getting really cold in the cab of that truck now.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2000 F250 SD 4x4. I noticed the other day that after driving the truck for 10 miles or more and then stopping and getting back in it feels like the parking brake is on. I drove the truck home and on my way back I smelled brakes burning but it wasn't pulling while driving or braking. When I got home I put my head in the wheel well to get a look at the brakes on the drivers side it seemed ok, but when I did it on the passenger side it was hot as Hades! It's been my experience that if the caliper is hanging up it will pull either while braking or regular driving. I just want a better idea before I go ahead and buy a new caliper and hose and tear the dang thing apart.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2008 F350 and there is nothing blowing out of the vents or defrost for AC or heat. It doesn't matter what fan speed is set. Would this indicate a blower motor? Where exactly is it located and how to change?
View 8 RepliesI have a 06 f350 super duty and noticed that when I have the heat on and driving about 40-50 mph I get the smell of coolant inside the cab. My temp gauge stays right in the middle like normal. When I got home tonight I opened the hood and didn't see nothing major. I took a picture .....
View 8 RepliesSo my issue, had heat last year, turned on first time this year and its cold. So I did some research on the site and have done a few things but still no heat
First thing I did was flushed coolant system and add new coolant as I have 235,000 miles on the truck and it looked rough
Ran the truck for a while and checked heater core hoses, they were both warm, not hot by any means so I pulled the thermostat and replaced the thermostat and gasket
Now the hoses to heater core are both hot and my temp gauge went up about 1/4" higher than it ever has, but still no heat.
Blows fine, just cold or sometimes luke warm. I pulled the glove box back to try and see I I could hear anything when I change from hot to cold and I hear or see nothing. Only movement I see is when changing cycles from defrost, heater, ac... So could this be a blend door issue an how do I get to the blend door, is it behind the big plastic plenum box?
Don't get much rain here in SoCal except during the winter. After the last rain I noticed that there was water in the heating/ac vent system - or at least that's where I think it was.
When I made a right hand turn some water slopped out onto my foot and gave me quite a shock for a second till I figured out what had happened.
I suspect that there must be some kind of drain tube for the vent system that's become clogged, but before I start crawling around under the truck and dash I figured I would ask here first. Any useful tip on clearing the clog?
My manual heat/cold adjustment dial is working fine and transitions from heat to cold readily. However when in max heat, it is blowing luke warm. The higher the RPMs going down the road the warmer it blows (still not near as hot as normal), then idling at stop lights or in park it goes back to warm only.
My engine temperature is running normal at all RPM levels while driving and idling. Partially clogged heater core maybe, where higher RPMs force more water through it? I assume its not the water pump or thermostat since my operating temperature is staying normal...
Having problems with no heat at idle or low heat in the cab. I just bought this truck a couple weeks ago and have a limited warranty on it. The truck makes no heat at idle. I start it and let it just run, engine temp gauge goes up to normal operating temp in 15 min or so, still nothing from the vents but cold air. If I drive it I get a "little" heat, at idle, cold air again. I believe the thermostat is working because like I said, engine temp stays right in the middle.
Brought it to local ford dealer, their diagnosis was heat core clogged and needed to be flushed, had that done. truck has been running 40 minutes in the driveway now, engine temps nice and warm, no heat. What could be the issue? I took a picture of what I believe are the lines running to the heater core, just barely warm to the touch, not hot by any means. It looks like there is a vacuum actuator on the line running in but there is no hose attached to it, what this it, should it have a line running to it?
I have a 06 f350 6.0. I'm losing hear at times. My temp gauge is right in the middle like always. As soon as I let off he throttle or come to a stop the heat turns cold and blows out cold air!
View 2 RepliesI installed a Hopkins back up camera early last year. The original double sided tape that holds the monitor to the windshield didn't hold up long. Tried some of the gorilla double sided tape. A couple weeks max. Then I tried the 3m double sided tape. It would work a month or so. Did good all winter, but now I'm going to have to redo it for a 4th time already this year. It sticks to the glass, it's pulling loose from the plastic mount made onto the monitor.
View 3 RepliesMy 2006 F-250 SD with 6.0 diesel has some sort of cut-out for the heater circuit, and possibly for the A/C as well. This truck was probably a fleet vehicle for the Houston Port Authority. Didn't really notice this peculiarity until it got really cold outside. If I start the truck up and let it idle for 10-15 minutes the water and transmission temperature get up to the normal operating ranges but the heater/defrost circuit does not heat up. Cannot defrost the windshield.
If I drive to the end of my driveway, about 600 feet, the heater/defroster starts putting out good heat. When driving, if I have to stop at a stoplight, or any other pause, with the truck still in gear, the heater output starts to cool down. I suspect that this feature was incorporated in the circuitry at the factory to prevent the driver from sitting still to keep warm. The truck MUST BE MOVING to allow heat or defrost to operate. The blower motor operates and it doesn't matter if the truck is in gear or not.
We have an 1999 f-450 super duty with a cube van box that we use for pickup. About a month ago the radio and lights started to stay on, various other electronics did the same.
we found mostly it points to the gem module...was unable to obtain a new one so we found a use one. For the time being we started disconnecting the battery ( would kill both overnight ) and magically....everything was working again so we didn't bother installed the used GEM.
Now....its given Chirstine a run for her money and auditioning for a maximum overdrive reboot The starter started to turn. Took the keys outa the ignition but a few moments later it started again. Got to the point the starter wouldn't stop and we were running around the shop looking for tools to disconnect the batteries.
Its not starting the engine so the ignition should be ok, its just powering the starter motor. checked the relay and it seems to be working fine. We tried to install the GEM we bought however, it seems its not the right part and its too late to return it now so, we are trying to find a new one ( not used ) from somewhere. so the gem is bad as the radio, blower motor etc comes on and off at will but here's the kicker.... with the GEM removed...the starter is still powering itself....
Thought maybe the fuse box got moisture or something, put a heater on it to dry it out. Pulled the starter fuse, turned off...pulled radio fuse samething
so i think the fuse box is ok.