Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Possible To Adjust Trailer Brake Output Sensitivity?
Mar 20, 2013
I have an 08 F450 equipped with Ford integrated trailer brake controller. I tow between 6,000# and 14,000# machinery on a daily basis. I know the gain can be adjusted up to ten. I have noticed while braking "normal" The controller only outputs 1 green bar of power. Manually, the brakes on all my trailers don't grab untill around 3 bars of output. I find myself always sliding the manual lever to relieve the truck. The truck is suffering. I have the gain set to 10 just to get minimal result from the 1 bar output. I know my trailer brakes rock, they can stop the truck and trailer if needed. Can it be adjusted? How many bars are you folks getting with easy braking?
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only have clearance lights at plug no output for brake and turn signals
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I've just bought a new 2016 SD xlt. The only extra I wanted that is missing is the factory trailer brake controller. The dealer told me it had to be programmed. I was expecting plug and play and planned to do it myself till they told me that. Is this true?
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Have recently been getting a "TBC Fault" message and the Beep, as the message goes on and off(annoying) looked around think its the Controler itself,,If I move the slider, and Jiggle it,,the message Blinks on and off as I move the Slider,,,Looking for the method of removing it from the Cubby Hole,,,Gave it a tug,,,and wiggle did not move must have a Clip or Tab to release it.
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Where I can find a good used or a good deal on a new factory trailer brake controller to fit a 2006 F250 Diesel Truck?
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I replaced all the exterior bulbs in my 2013 F250 6.7L with LED bulbs. My trailer lights work but brake and signals don't work on the trailer.
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I tow a 5th wheel with my 2014 F-250 that has an factory TBC. I just installed Electric over Hydraulic disc brakes on my 5th wheel and was trying to see if there was a setting I needed to change on the TBC to tell it that is now E/H versus E. In the Information section of the dashboard display it talks about the controller actuating electric drum brakes but the manual talks about it being able to do electric AND E/H. What I need to do here...if anything?
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2010 F250 Lariat, cab and a half, PSD. 5600 miles.
Sunday I started the pickup and received "trailer brake module fault" in the message center. I wasn't pulling so wasn't too concerned - hit the reset and continued on.
Sunday night I started the pickup again and received the same message followed by "check brake system". I also lost illuminated gear selection, the traction control active symbol was displayed and the traction control "off" (PB) was illuminated. After several attempts it reset, everything returned to normal and I was able to get home without incident.
Monday morning it wouldn't start. It indicated "trailer brake module fault", "check brake system", traction control active and off, no gear indication, the odometer indicated "-------" and it did not react to the key in the start position.
Tuesday morning I attempted to start and it was the same as the previous attempt. I noticed that the theft prevention appeared active (flashing) so I removed the key, locked the doors, unlocked the doors, tried again - no joy.
I kept trying while holding my mouth in different positions and finally by the grace of God it fired. I delivered it to the dealer.
The dealer called yesterday afternoon and reported that everything is a result of a bad trailer brake module. The new one is to arrive today, they will install and everything will be peachy.
I asked if they could just unplug it and reprogram the truck to believe it never had one - the service writer said it can't be done, different piece parts on trucks with or without trailer brakes.
I really have no choice but to push the "I believe" button and carry on but I am slightly concerned. The fact that the trailer brake module can cause catastrophic failure doesn't seem too cool, I don't have a real warm and fuzzy feeling associated with venturing far from pavement, reliable communication or alternative transportation.
In the meantime I suggest that no one take "trailer brake module failure" lightly.
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We bought a 2012 f550 chassis and had a utility bed outfited. As far as I know the truck does not have a tow package (major F-up). They did install a receiver and electric in the rear. The 7 way pin in the rear does have the appropriate wires (including blue). I can not find the harness in the cab under the dash. I have looked near the radio where I have found the harness on our other trucks. I specifically looked for the red white and blue wire under there. Where is this harness? Is the harness still in the cab even without the tow package? This will be for the old school plug in controller, not the ford intergrated contoller.
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2004 ford f 350 super duty, 6.0 Liters international diesel, 4door, 4x4, long bed, dual rear wheels. Over 200,000 mileage. I have no power to the trucks brake lights and no power to the tow plugs trailer brake lights, which is the center left and the center right tow plug blade style contacts, while using a 12 volt test light! All fuses are showing good and I replaced the brake switch at the brake pedal, and I also replaced the towing plug with the short wire and connector at rear of truck which is under the rear bumper and the frame mounted tow hitch bar
- Are there any relays that control the truck brake lights and the trailer brake lights ?
- If yes where are the brake relays exactly?
- Have I missed or not done something else to correct the problem?
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2013 F250 XL with factory towing package.
My camper and boat trailer do not have turning signal or brake lights when plugged into the round seven pin trailer connector. I have tried both the connector in the bed and under the bumper. I've also connected the trailers to other trucks and the lights work fine so I know the problem is in my truck.
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I just purchased a F250 Gasser with the 6.2. I made sure to get it with the 4.30 rear to babl to tow a little better when i upsize the tires a little. Where I can find the drive output ratio from the transmission?
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I was trying to replace the output sensor in my 5r110 when it broke off in the housing.
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Just bought a 2011 F450 king Ranch. really like the truck but the heated seats a REALLY slow to warm up and then just warm. I see that these work different than all the other heated seats I have used and use the blower motor to blow warm or cool air through the seats instead of an element under the seat covers. Is there anything I can do to get more heat? The blower filters look ok and will replace the when I can find a set. Tries without the filter and didn't see much of an improvement. Where is the heat element and is it east to get to?
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How does the truck know that there is a trailer connected?
With my cab-over camper and no trailer as soon as I go to reverse the back up alarm goes off. I thought I would wire in a marker light to the trailer brake circuit but that didn't do it, maybe not enough resistance? The truck still says no trailer.
How I can fool the system so that when I load the camper it looks like a trailer to the truck?
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I just changed transfer case fluid on my father's F-350 for the first time in 13 years. (over 230k). Removed fill plug first and fluid gushed out of the fill hole unexpectedly. Did not have catch pan ready, so made a mess. I thought it was just over filled form the factory, but too much was coming out to be simple overfill. Almost 2 qt came out of the fill plug.
Did some google search and found many Ford trucks have failed transmission output shaft seal and transmission fluid leaks out to transfer case, causing transfer case to overfill. I am yet to check transmission fluid level, but considering how much came out of it that probably is the case.
Now, how bad of the problem this really is? Will overfilled transfer case cause some serious problem? 4x4 is rarely used (once or twice a year in winter) on this truck and from what I understand transfer case doesn't really do anything in 2WD other than just passing output from transmission through.
There are no fluid leaking outside and repairing the seal would be a too much of work for me.
Also changed rear differential fluid for the first time and I was surprised how clean the fluid was. There were thin layer of black sticky residue (sludge?) covering everything, but the fluid itself looked clean and no visible metal shavings. I guess that is why Ford said it does not require change under normal condition.
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Well, it seems the cover on my trailer connector got broken off. The cover locks the trailer plug into the truck side. The connector on the truck is/was supplied by Ford. Now the dealer say NLA, only 2005 and up. Truck is 99 F250 SD. Plug is 4/7 way. Where can I locate a direct plug-in replacement? I do not want to be cutting and splicing.
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I am looking at getting my new truck, my 05 F350 6.0, with factory trailer brake controller, all set up for a gooseneck. I was wondering if there was an OEM kit to add a trailer connection plug to the inside of the bed? If there is, what are the part number(s)?
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Not working at plug.
I see there is right turn/stop relay.
Does this relay ever go bad?
All other trailer lights work.
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Went to hook up my trailer today and both the trailer plugs do not work. I checked the fuses and all is well. They worked fine the other day but now they don't work at all. I confirmed this by hooking up to another trailer and nothing. Also got another truck and went to trailers and it worked.
My truck has 19000 miles so it's practically new. I have never seen this. I called dealer but they can't see it til next week and I need the trailer brakes and lights. Where could I look or what could the problem be?
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I still have my 2011 6.7 f350 CC. I have a triple axle (single wheel) gooseneck tilt deck trailer that I pull my older dozer and backhoe on.
With the trailer brake gain set to 10 I don't have as much brake engagement as I would like. It actually wont lock them up at all when adjusting the gain. Loaded I don't feel any engagement when manually sliding the controller.
On my sons 99 f350, with after market controller he can adjust his output so that the brakes engaugelock at just about any adjustment (way over breaking) so I believe the trailer brakes work fine, I just don't get enough output from the factory controller.
Is there any additional adjustments the factory controller has or any suggestions to increase the output more so the brakes have a bit more engagement?
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