Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2011 F450 - Low Output From Heated Seats
Oct 22, 2016
Just bought a 2011 F450 king Ranch. really like the truck but the heated seats a REALLY slow to warm up and then just warm. I see that these work different than all the other heated seats I have used and use the blower motor to blow warm or cool air through the seats instead of an element under the seat covers. Is there anything I can do to get more heat? The blower filters look ok and will replace the when I can find a set. Tries without the filter and didn't see much of an improvement. Where is the heat element and is it east to get to?
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2012 f250 diesel Lariat 4dr 4x4. He called me today cause he knows I do all the work on my own F250 diesel. He has heated seats in the back and he said that they turn on by them selves and they won't turn off. He had to actually disconnect the wire harness to get the heating elements to turn off so his wife's friends wouldn't burn their bottoms in the middle of august is Texas.. Any ways, he said both sides are staying on and wouldn't turn off using the switch.
I'm not very familiar with the heated seat wiring, especially for the back seats. I told him their may have been a relay that went bad, but now I"m thinking that they much have a controller or something that is acting up. He said that the front seats are acting normal. Also, he has the touch screen and navigation upgrade as well as auto climate control, not sure if this stuff matters for the back seats though...
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I have an 2002 F250 super duty that has leather seats. The seats are power but not heated. I bought seats out of a Harley Davidson edition that are electric and heated. They have an extra plug that my truck don't have. How can I make the seat heaters work?
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Coming back from a trip I got a e-brake light show up on the dash then noticed the signals stopped working and the heated seats no longer turn on. I scanned it with my AE and got a brake fluid sensor error come up but nothing about the signals .... is this a common problem or is there a connection between all this? 2003 F350 6.0L .....
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I've had the 450 a little over two years. Its used 95% of the time for hauling trailers, including the toy hauler. Has not given me a single problem since day one and now has around 21,000 on the odometer.
Lately I've noticed a "grinding" sound coming from the front end somewhere. It is most apparent when I'm turning at slow speeds; especially left. To describe it would be similar to worn out brake pads or maybe a wheel bearing going bad. It does it whether I'm on the brakes or not.
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Where I can locate rear fender flares that will match 2011 and up f450 flares? Which flares would cover the f450 front fender flares holes?
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I have a 1999 F450 that was bought new as a cab and chassis. The truck belonged to my dad who passed away two years ago and now I have it. I am wondering if it has 4.30 or 4.88 gears. The rear end is huge! It has an aluminum cover with cooling fins on it, not sure if they both had that or not. I looked online and I think it said all cab and chassis had 4.88?
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I just purchased a F250 Gasser with the 6.2. I made sure to get it with the 4.30 rear to babl to tow a little better when i upsize the tires a little. Where I can find the drive output ratio from the transmission?
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My heated seat that quit. Pass side heated seat on my 07 went out. The light on the button stays on, where do I start diagnosing to figure out if it is the back or bottom that went out?
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My 99 f450 7.3 runs bad on first start of day. I checked the codes 3 codes p0475, p0470 and p1247. Now here is what I tried I plugged it in over night and it will start and run as should the next morning with out side temp 47. Drove the truck late yesterday evening didn't plug up tried it this morning with a outside temp of 47 truck starts but missing and like of power. My problem seems to be temp related. Will low boost pressure cause this problem what do I need to do?
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Purchased new 2016 450 platinum. Has less than 800 miles on it and has a terrible vibration between 70-80 mph... Already have taken to dealer who stated there was a wheel out of balance and that they fixed the issue. But still present.
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I have a 99 F450. I have an ABS light on. No codes (at least not that my code reader can pickup), but I am also not having any issues. Brakes work fine. What to swap out or where to look?
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Can an f-450 with a blown 6.4 diesel received an transplant from an f-350 V-10.
How much would need to go over from the f-350 to f-450?
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I was trying to replace the output sensor in my 5r110 when it broke off in the housing.
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I have an 08 F450 equipped with Ford integrated trailer brake controller. I tow between 6,000# and 14,000# machinery on a daily basis. I know the gain can be adjusted up to ten. I have noticed while braking "normal" The controller only outputs 1 green bar of power. Manually, the brakes on all my trailers don't grab untill around 3 bars of output. I find myself always sliding the manual lever to relieve the truck. The truck is suffering. I have the gain set to 10 just to get minimal result from the 1 bar output. I know my trailer brakes rock, they can stop the truck and trailer if needed. Can it be adjusted? How many bars are you folks getting with easy braking?
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I have an 02 F450 with a dump bed an just under 45,000 miles (was barley used by the first owner). This maybe unrelated to my problem but is worth mentioning. This past week I noticed a small puddle where I had previously parked at a customers house so I checked the oil. I was about 2 quarts low. I followed the oil trail up and found a pool in the valley. One of the high pressure lines were loose and the seal was chewed up so I replaced it and tightened it. No more oil leak.
Now my new problem. Two days later, after about 45 minutes on the interstate driving about 75 mph the truck started to rapidly lose power as if it was running out of fuel. I heard a loud ticking sound coming from the engine and the more I tried to accelerate the worse it got. I pulled over and the truck stalled. I thought that maybe my fuel gauge had crapped the bed on me because it still read a little over 1/4 tank. I called a buddy and got more deisal in it and it started right up. We'll after about 5 minutes of 60 mph it started to happen again. So to fast forward... I opened up the tank and found the the strainer had crumbled in the bottom of the tank.
So I cleaned out the screens in the sending unit and replaced the strainer, replaced the fuel filter, and reverse blew out the lines. I read about checking the hpop reservoir for oil and it is present. So to sum up, as long as I stay under 60mph or so I can get about 5 minutes of run time before the truck starts to stutter and stumble. If I shut it off for about 5minutes I can go back up to 60 again but it the cycle continues. 5 on and 5 off. If I start the truck after say 30 seconds after shutting it off it sounds like it's going to die and has no power at all. I have worked on a lot of vehicles but none with anything like this and this is my first deisal. What do I do to get this beast back to normal?
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I have a 1999 F450 Diesel dump truck. Automatic. The problem that I have is that the truck will drive VERY SLOWLY while the rps go up.
You can hear the engine revving up, and a strong air sound when doing so (do not know if intake or exhaust, but its like a strong wind sound. And not like a hiss, so I do not think its a vacuum leak).
The transmission goes through gears fine, but it does the rev up thing through every gear. So I am wondering if something like the torque converter might be broken or slipping.
For example, if you go with the loaded truck up a hill, you have to really push it to keep any type of speed. Or when you get off a red light.
When I bought it used, I thought that it might have a really short final gear. But that would not explain the high RPM and no push.....
No codes at all.
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It's a 2004 F450 super duty, no power steering. The pump seems to function, no pump whine. I was told that it may be the steering gear box it's self.
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I've got a 2004 f450 6.0 diesel. This thing will start and run great when it's cold. Then when it gets to operating temp, around 190, it will shut down. This is getting worse and worse.
A little history, it was doing this for awhile and a had a few other issues before this. Puking antifreeze, stiction issues, and bad exhaust manifold. Since it wasn't running great I figured why not pull that cab and take care of these issues.
As of last week she got new head gaskets, new exhaust manifold, new injectors, updated standpipes, updated dummy plugs, new o rings on hpop (yellow on the bottom), and a new pipe to the oil pump. I have the old style it's not the stc fitting.
All that work, it still stalls when warm. I monitor with a scan gauge 2. ( Big diesel tech Ron's fan) ...
First thing, give here two second crank start right up, runs better then ever. Gets to operating temp, rev it up, then stalls. Ipc is at 85% ipr gets up to 180 psi.
Unplug ipc, shows 765 psi on the ipr still no start. Put shop air to her and I can't hear any leaks ( probably 15 mins or so).
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I have a F450 that I bought a few months ago and have been having trouble with Fuse location 35 blowing. When I purchased the truck the 4x4, tow/haul, and reverse sensing system worked because I had to use it loading and unloading my boat this fall. Since then the snow fell and when I tried to put it into 4x4 I noticed it would not. I checked the passenger compartment fuse (loc. 35) and it was blown.
So I figured it was an easy fix, changed fuse, and it immediately blew again, and again. So then I started checking components related to fuse 35. First i checked the tow/haul switch in the shift lever and thought it was that, so I replaced it, and it still blew fuses. Next, I unplugged the reverse sensing systems and still blew the fuse. Next, I turned my attention to the transfer case shift motor. I replaced it and still blew fuse. So at this point I am stumped.
It is probably worth mentioning that when I replace the fuse initially and turn the key over, all systems work. I can switch the dash switch to 4x4 and it will shift, also the illumination light on the dash comes on. I can also toggle the tow/haul switch and the illumination light on the dash comes on as well. The reverse sensing system also works as well and the light in the switch works as well.
Now and important thing to note is that it seems to hold the fuse for a minute or more with the engine off/ key on, when I start the engine, it works briefly but then the fuse blows. I am not a service tech. by any means but am very comfortable under the hood and have a fairly good understanding of electrical components and their operation. It seems to me that somewhere in the circuit that there is a short to ground or a faulty component(module) or something completely different.
The fact that it takes a minute or so to blow the fuse as compared to an immediate blow when the key is cycled to power on. I would like to fix this myself as with anything I do, I like to educate myself through diagnosis/repair. The last piece of information with mentioning is that before I purchased the truck(30,000 miles ago) it had a factory reman engine installed at a ford dealer. If worse comes to worse I will have to take it to a Ford dealership for service but would like to keep it in house if I could!
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I tried to take my tailgate off my 08 F-450 today.
Did it the same as every tailgate Ive taken off in the last 20 years...........it wouldn't come.
Is there a trick to it?
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