Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Ratcheting Air Sound Going Uphill
Mar 28, 2013
I have a 2005 F350 SD with 217K. It's got a Magnaflow aftermarket exhaust and newer OEM turbo. When I'm driving uphill and around 1800 RPM or higher, the engine makes this weird ratcheting sound when I let off the gas. It almost sounds like air is backflowing somewhere. It doesn't do it on level streets or downhills or when I'm below about 1500 RPM. The sound is not a metal on metal type sounds. It literally sounds like high pressure air backflowing somewhere or not being discharged properly. Also, I bought the truck used a couple months ago. So I'm not sure of all of the aftermarket upgrades done to the engine.
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My truck has been broke down for a few months and I just got it started a few days ago my alternator was bad so I replaced it yesterday I also replaced the map sensor now I have a hypertech installed in it and showing a Wastegate fail error code and anyways my truck only from a dead stop acts real sluggish and 3 times in a row when I go up a fairly steep hill it will almost instantly die just go and then it doesn't want to start for a while after I roll it back on level ground now I can back up a hill and no problem its only when im heading uphill its really weird
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Last few months my 08 F250 has been slow going up hills. The fluid checks out ok and it shifts fine.
It just seems to take forever to get up hills. Has 124K....
Also has a huge hissing noise thats RPM dependent on the passenger side. Will make the sound in neutral just revving.
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For the first time while towing a bumper pull trailer, started getting a very strong burning smell, only while going up decent size hills. After the climb, smell goes away. Kind of smells like burning rubber or wiring, but that should be constant and not just while up hill.
Checked tranny fluid and it didn't look burnt or low and never saw visible smoke. Have seen this discussed before but with no definitive conclusions. Truck has 150K on it and has long ago lost most of its towing power and the hills also drop the speed to around 45mph from 70 when I hit the big ones.
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I have a 2001 excursion 7.3 4x4 with the 6.0L trans cooler. It is over heating when heavy, uphill towing is under way. I am guessing that my computer has been reprogramed at some point and more fuel is being injected than the radiator is designed to cool. I know my trans cooler is clean. I have tried cleaning the radiator and intercooler with a garden hose. I am considering a hood scoop or some sort of vents in the hood. When it over heats I turn on the heater and open the hood and the engine temps drop in just a few minutes so I believe that the engine needs more cooling or I need to slow down a bit on hills. Any other cheap fixes to get more air in to cool things under the hood more?
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I bought 08 6.4 113000 on it 4x4 lariet drove 300 miles home. No problem 2 days later runs fine for 45 minutes than loses power and sputters up hills starts no problem every morning every time wait awhile sometimes runs fine was on e when test drove canged both fuel filters oil and drained 8 quarts tranny fluid and replaced it. When problematic rpms wont go over 2 turbo psi seems high seems in sync with rpms dropped...
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I had a leaking coolant crossover so had to remove that and replace it with a new one. In doing so i removed the air assembly, throttle body, fuel injectors, and Spark plug coils. I reassembled everything, no more leaks but now my GAS engine sounds like a school bus. I've lost power, going up hill is rough, once i hit 40mph my car starts to shake a little bit but when I am on a straight away it will sometimes drive normal and sometimes go back to driving slowly. it also idles rough.
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I bought my F-250 Super Duty 6.0 last October, and I am extremely happy with it comparing to my former '03 Dodge 2500 TD. The Ford drives so much better!
There is only one problem I have with it. Without pulling it shifts nice and has lots of power. A Month ago I bought a fifth wheel trailer and I hardly notice it behind the truck, also it doesn't use more diesel pulling. However going uphill the transmission seems to slip, and I can hear (sounds like) a fan running loud? I loose speed.
All the temperature gauges stay normal, no difference. It starts to pull worse. I replaced de tranny filters, inside and the outside one. Also I did put the correct transmission fluid in there, no difference. Almost no grindings in the oilpan/magnet.
I looked on many sites, but cannot find anything on this. Personally I think it's the torque converter? My final step would be to have the transmission rebuild, with the best parts available, (close to WA, ID, MO)...
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1999 F350 7.3 Super Duty surges when going uphill with a load. The only time we drive it is when towing the horse trailer - also has a camper on.
The truck doesn't physically surge, just the RPM gauge goes up and down and along with it a humming noise.
Also, What conditions should I engage the towing button on the end of the gear shift? I've heard several answers. Should it be engaged when towing or off?
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'06 Power Stroke/136k miles.
This last weekend I was towing my rzr up hill and the tranny slipped, lost power, and the "Wrench" check eng came on. I pulled over, checked my fluids, checked for leaks, checked for smells, couldn't see anything visibly wrong.
Turned it back on and no other issues on the way to the camp site. On the way home, days later, same thing happened twice. Is the tranny going bye bye? Would it be worth it to get a flush for the possibility it just may be the fluid and maybe some sediments or something of the sort?
AND the bigger question is, if it is the tranny, should I trade this POS in, or replace the tranny? It has had a few problems lately with the turbo. Needs a new AC compressor. I didn't do much homework or know about the 6.0's before I bought this truck. After I bought this truck last year I heard about all the problems the 6.0's have and wished I would have went another route.
I can turn a wrench pretty decent (Aircraft Mechanic) but I have very little knowledge on vehicles, let alone this POS. I am apprehensive about doing a transmission or any big components without assistance. This is why I am trying to decide what the best option would be for the long run.
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I have a 1997 F250 heavy duty 4x4 7.5 efi. I just bought a 2003 weekend worrior weighing 5800lbs dry. When I go up slight hills in 4th gear it seems to work real hard especially on freeways, could my clutch be slipping or am I just at max tow
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Having downshifting problems with REbuilt transmission. Is there a FIPL sensor for the 4r100? I was told to check all engine codes first, but i just have a EBPV sensor code, but removed the valve when I installed the GT38R turbo...
Rebuild:
- Tugger kit
- triple disc Billet torque converter
- New clutches and seals,.
- Banks Trans command module
... I also have a 6-pos tuner.. I had a Super chips tuner too and it has ALWAYS had the downshifting on acceleration on up-hill grades!!
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When I purchased my truck 1999 F350 about 5 years ago, I was told it was on its third transmission since the awesome 7.3 diesel engine has 200,000 miles on it. At first I noticed that going up a hill with the truck empty would cause the tranny temp gauge to climb to 250 degrees F. Nowadays when I tow my boat or carry my camper, the temp gauge pegs over 250 and the overdrive light flashes steadily when I do any hill climbs. I have had the fluid flushed several times, and I have a large fan powered oil cooler too. I also recently noticed that the tranny heated up when the truck is just idling in place.
I just got back from burning man and during the 800 mile round trip the overdrive light started flashing at least 6 times and the temp gauge read over 210 the whole time, with it pegging over 250 during hill climbs. No fluid boiled out but I am very concerned that damage is being done.
Is it possible there is a clog in a line somehwere restricting the flow of oil? Or should I replace the tranny?
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Driving up a slight hill unloaded yesterday at about 40mph constant pedal pressure the truck shifts into neutral...at least that's what it feels like. Revs go up and no power. When I take my foot off the pedal the transmission catches and drives fine. There is no bucking or hard shifting, just that slipping. What it could be? This problem arose suddenly....never had any problems prior. It is not an issue that has gotten worse over time...
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I was towing a 16' Carmate Box trailer (empty), in tow/Haul mode, through the mountains on the PA turnpike. On an uphill section, 70 mph, suddenly blue smoke was pouring out of the back of the truck. I immediately slowed to about 50mph and pulled over at the next opportunity, about a mile. The bottom of the trans pan was coated with fluid, mostly on left side and the exhaust crossover pipe was smoking. Gauges were all normal. Ambient temp was 90F.
I drove another 40 miles, mostly about 60 mph. No problems. When I started climbing in elevation, and hit 70mph again, the smoke started again. I pulled over again and crawled under to fine the crossover pipe in flames. I grabbed a rag and beat out the flames. Fluid was red. Gauges were normal again. Once I disconnected the trailer, I can find no leaks. Snugged pan bolts. I cannot duplicated the problem without the load and speed.
Background: 2005 Crewcab, 5.4, 5R110 trans, 3.73. 416,000 miles, I have towed about 50K miles of that. Trans always ran great. Never replaced.
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While driving up hill at 60mph the truck lost power. Rpm jumped up as to change gears as it hit 55mph. Still losing power until it shut off. I tried to restart and just got a click from the solenoid. No engine codes whatsoever. Battery had 12.1 volts but when turning the key to start in getting 8 volts. Had it towed home. Today I swapped batteries with my other truck and same click noise from solenoid. All lights, radio, ect still work. Where should I start? Alternator, fuses...?? 2008 f250 5.4 ...
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50 V10... How to tell if the grumbling sound when under a load is the posi plates? If so, how to replace them.
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I had a pretty good clunk going on and found the passenger tie rod was shot. The rest of the steer components looked fine. Fixed it and still get a nice bunch of clunks. Went over the steering again with someone rotating the wheel and didn't notice any crazy movements. The drag link twisted a bit but the joints looked solid compared to the tie rod which was completely shot.
So I decided to dig into it today. Looked again and nothing. So I took it into my back yard to drive over some humps left from stump grinding. Clunk, clunk, clunk. I stuck my head out the window and wouldn't you know it the sound seems to be coming from the rear! Took a pry bar to parts like the sway bar links, shocks, etc.... can't detect anything. Maybe a u-joint? Gotta dig in I guess.
Also my rear springs creak like nothing I've ever heard. Dirt roads it's just creak, creak, creak.
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I have a 2006 Ford F250 super duty kingcab 6.0 with 6 speed manual transmission. It just started making a clattering sound when i let off the gas in 1, 2, 3 gear but not in 4, OD, in Neutral with or without clutch engaged or at idle. U joints and carrier bearing are good. I took it to a mechanic and he said it was the throw out bearing but the sound goes away when clutch is engaged?
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So as of 2 weeks ago there is a popping sound coming from somewhere behind the cab when I'm turning in reverse. Its intermittent and only happens once or twice when I'm pulling out of a parking spot. It doesn't happen every time. Probably about 4 times a week but it only happens when its cold and been sitting. It doesn't happen when I'm driving in 2wd or 4wd. I was wondering what it could be and if its gonna be something I can afford to hold off on for awhile.
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My 99 super duty v-10 has 227,000 miles. It was a former UHaul unit but seems in good shape considering the abuse it's probably had! I recently started hearing a clattering sound coming from the rear.
Not just turning but in straight line. Very loud even at 2-3 mph, more pronounced in deceleration. I can best describe it as someone shaking a metal pail with about a half dozen lug nuts in it.
Previous threads point at the limited slip. I called the Uhaul after sales desk and he right away said put some friction modifier in and do figure. Eights in the parking lot. I did and The sound is still there.
One poster said the factory LS is garbage and not worth rebuilding. They mentioned the TruTrac as a good replacement and I guess I'll investigate that further.
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