When I put the truck into reverse, sometimes the rear park assist sensors go off for no reason, sometimes they work correctly. Is there a way to narrow down which sensor it might be, or just replace the lot?
View 5 RepliesMy reverse sensors have stopped working. As soon as you put in reverse, the on off button will light up and be telling you that it is off. What is going on and how do I correct this?
View 3 RepliesOn occasion I'll have the reverse sensors quit working. I'll drop the shifter in reverse and the 'OFF' light on the button will illuminate. I took the sensors out and blew them clean with compressed air, dielectric geased the connectors and reinstalled the plugs. Let's see if that does the trick.
As mentioned, it's occasional and nothing in particular will trigger the fault....it's very random. Something tells I haven't seen the end of this problem, but tracking an intermittent fault is tough.
For the past month or so, probably about a half dozen times now, I will start the truck in the garage but I can't seem to get it into reverse right away. It may very well be a timing thing with me depressing the brake pedal, but I'm not so sure. I've been backing the truck out of the garage for five years and I've never had a timing issue, and I'm definitely noticing it now.
Is/was there an issue with the brake pedal as it related to putting the vehicle in gear? Could it be something going on with the brake pedal for that function? It is very sporadic, maybe once or twice a week it happens (I don't take it out that much). Trying to gather info before hitting up my dealer.
Have 2001 F-250 7.3 PSD, automatic, ESOF (had to replace the original hubs with Warns)have kept up the maintenance,oil, grease, ATF fluid & filter, truck has been virtually trouble free. About 2 weeks ago I decided to go across an area of the lawn, as I was going (in 2 wheel drive)I felt the tires spin a little so I stopped got out and locked the hubs, got back in truck turned t-case to 4 high. had to rock the truck out of a damp area but nothing really.
So I got back to where I came in at (in reverse about 100') stopped put it back in 2 wheel drive, tried to go forward, very difficult, sluggish, got back in driveway had to back the truck in, will not go forward at all now. Checked all fuses, rapped the the t-case motor, no codes. So I thought I'd move the ruck, have a winch that will pull it out by the barn, I could not even move the truck forward by pulling it with a winch. As I said have never had any problems with truck. Transmission fluid is good, clean no burnt smell.
I was driving my sons 99 f250, 7.3, today, pulled into a friends driveway, put the truck into park, turned it off and got out. 5 minutes later out of nowhere the truck jumped out of park into reverse like someone was in it stomping on the gas then the breaks then the gas, then the breaks. This truck took off in reverse with such force if there was someone behind it they would have been seriously hurt. I was parked on completely flat ground. While this was happening it sounded like it was trying to start and clicking very loud. It is an automatic.
View 3 RepliesI have a question about when my truck is in 4 wheel drive. I've read a lot of posts but couldn't find specific answers to these questions: When I take a left turn theres quite a bit of resistance and a little hopping. Also when turning in reverse its almost like the truck is getting hung up and a with resistance, something doesn't seem right. Could any of this be if only one hub is engaging? Also, when i just manually lock the hubs, I only noticed that the passenger side axle spins when I manually turn the front drive shaft.
Also this is the first time I've used the 4 wheel drive. And I recently replaced front axle u joints, as well as a double cardan joint rebuild, only issue w/ that is that is i forgot to mark the orientation where the front driveshaft bolts onto the the transfer case...so it's either on the right way or a 180 from how it was before, because I could see the original pattern.
2000 4x4 7.3 long bed ext cab, 159k
Well I just bought a 2011F250 6.7 on Friday. The truck has 42000 miles when I picked it up and now has almost 42800 4 days later. I love the truck so far. But anyways its an early build so is there anything I need to look out for? I noticed today I pulled into a parking spot and went to back up and as soon as I put it in reverse the truck shook pretty bad. It did it a few times as I sat there and went from drive to reverse. Is this something that is normal?
View 9 RepliesOk I am getting a (6R140) transmission behaviour every morning drive or later in the day after the transmission cools down. I am experiencing a 2-3 second delay of engagement when putting truck in Reverse. This happens EVERY time whether transmission is cold or warmed up. I am also having very hard/harsh shift fares going into 3rd gear and 5th gear with the 3rd gear being the worse of the two. Also experiencing these hard/harsh shift when downshifting as well.
I took the truck to my local dealer and I let it sit over night in their lot so they could experience it at its worst after sitting all night. They definitely recognized the issue. But since it wasn't throwing and codes. I find this an unacceptable answer.
I brought to their attention that this issue is well documented online and a lot are having success with performing TSB 11-7-10 (replacing solenoids) They looked it up and said my truck doesn't apply to TSB because of the build date. My window sticker and VIN # implies the truck was built 10-11-2010. Which from my understanding, does fall under the required TSB. None the less, I insisted that I know I'm out of warranty and I will just pay to have this TSB performed. They refused.
What should I do? I know everyday I run my truck with this issue it is decreasing the reliability of this transmission and it will most likely end with a full transmission replacement.
Well... my ABS light popped on two days ago. I was pulling a 6x12 trailer filled with random yard waste and other junk at the time. Not sure if that triggered it or not... So right away I changed the speed sensor on the rear diff... that is usually the cause plus it's only a 15 dollar part and 10 minutes to change out so I figured why not. The light is still on. So I go to my local Advanced Auto (where I bought the sensor from) and I get a free scan.
According to their scanner, both front wheel speed sensors AND the rear sensor on the diff (which I just replaced) are bad. Does this sound right? I've heard a low battery can sometimes trigger the ABS light too. The truck continues to drive perfectly normal like nothing happened. Brakes, speedometer, cruise, etc. EVERYTHING still works perfect. Just got that damn light on... so what say you FTE?
80% of the time my parking sensors are always on, like something is behind the truck. 20% of the time they work just fine.
I replaced all 4 sensors today with ones off ebay and I get the same thing.
Anything else I can try before I have to take it to the dealer?
The originals and my new ones all clicked when I put my ear up to them.
My 2005 F250 started stuttering, lurching, having wild swings in rpms, nearly dying at stop signs, no pickup when stepping on the gas, then taking off like a bat outta hell. After reading many, many posts here and on other sites, I have concluded that the most likely culprit is the ICP sensor, so I picked one up today (along with a EBP sensor - another story). It appears from the many posts that I have read that Ford/Navistar have frequently changed the location of these sensors. My question is: Where are the ICP and EBP sensors located on the 2005s (actual manufacture date is 07/2004)?
View 6 RepliesDome lights staying on due to the door sensors, and the WD40 fix to cure it. Well mine has taken it a step further now. My truck won't recognize the closing OR opening of the driver door, and the driver door only. Naturally I tried the WD40 soak but it's been a few weeks now with no change.
View 6 RepliesI recently installed takeoff 2017 factory 18" wheel/tire combo on my 2008 F250 to replace the 17" steelies. Didn't even know it had a TPMS system. Light never came on in 10 years of driving. After installing and airing up to 70psi, the TPMS warning light came on. Checked pressures, all good. I'm guessing that the new 18's have different sensors than the 2008 17's. 08 has the rim mounted green rectangular style. Don't know what the 2017's are as the tires were never taken off the rims. What do I have to do to get the new sensors to work?
View 8 RepliesI have reset my tire sensors twice and the low tire light would still come on, so I called the dealer today..he said you have to set the tire pressure to what is on the door jam.
65 psi front and 85 psi rear. I did not know that. I had been setting all to 65 psi.
Picked up a project truck for the spring..... single cab 99 4x4 7.3 with the 6 speed. 1st through 5th work perfect...... however reverse and low are non existent.
What I am sure of:
1. I'm positive its not a clutch problem.
2. The shifter goes into the position of reverse and low just fine but there's no engagement at all.
3. I can put the shifter in low or reverse position whether the clutch is engaged or not... makes no difference at all.
Once i was messing with it and somehow by moving the stick sort of to the side it hit reverse and the gear worked fine but then it remained in reverse no matter what position the shifter was in until i was able to move it around enough to get it out.
I'm thinking bent shift fork? Looking at a few writeups on rebuilds it looks like i might be able to replace the fork without dropping the tranny.... just divorce the t-case and remove back half of trans?
I have an 02 f350 XL. The other day it rained and all of my rear lights went haywire. All problems are out back.
- Step on brakes, high mount, and lic plate lights light up with brakes.
- Turn on marker lights and the high mount lights up and the tails and lic plate lights dim.
- Marker lights on, apply brakes, and the tails and lic plates lights go out on bed, high mount activates.
- Use turn signals with markers off and all of the rear lights including high mount flash..
- Reverse lights dim or dont work at all.
I have tried a new MF switch, checked all fuses. cleaned rear frame ground. took apart brake switch and cleaned it. non tilt column but checked wires. replaced flasher. unplugged brake light switch and headlight switch, problem is still there. removed trailer relays, no luck. checked all chassis plugs. disconnected TRS.
I should mention i have 12v cummins swap and a pcs with standalone harness. no problems over the last few months since swap until it rained last monday.
I just picked up a 2003 F350 4X4 5.4L it has 130k on it. It drives ok, it doesn't seem to be able to accelerate very quickly and one thing I noticed is when i go into reverse it seems to stutter or feels like it scoots a little bit.
View 14 RepliesAny way to disable the reverse sensors by maybe adding a switch to turn off power so it does not constantly go off while plowing and the sensors are snow covered? i thought maybe by just unplugging the switch would do it, but that did not work. truck is an 02 diesel with auto trans.
View 6 RepliesI have recently put a platinum tailgate on my 2012 off a 2014 and for some reason the camera no longer works just wonder why this is and how I fix it....
Click the image to open in full size....
Last night I was watching tv when my truck tried to start I thought I hit the remote start on my keys but it didn't start which I found weird. I went down stairs too see if it did anything else and it did it again it would turn over and turn over but never fire all while the keys are in my hand. At the same time the done light was stuck on and the radio went on and off. I'm pretty sure that my GEM got wet through the windshield, also Is the GEM dead or can it dry out and be ok
View 12 Replies