Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Truck Dying While Cranking But Batteries Supposedly Good
Jan 4, 2016
I drive a 2002 F-250 7.3l and have been having a lot of issues. The most recent one is that my truck won't crank unless I've had the block heater plugged in. Like I said in the title, the batteries are supposedly fine. They've been tested by a mechanic and Advanced Auto Parts. But when I crank the truck, it will only turn over for 10 seconds or so before it loses enough juice to even turn over. So it's kind of cold, but only 40-50 degrees, so I didn't think the truck would have that much of a problem starting. I'm wondering if my issues are a combination of an electrical problem and a heating issue.
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On my 2002 7.3 liter for the last about 1 week it has been getting harder and harder to start. Up until yesterday when it will not start at all. What it does is this. A week ago I noticed it cranked slightly weaker but still ran perfect once started. This has progressed slowly but definitely. It has never gotten better, only worse. Even with jumper cables hooked up it does not improve at all. The starter is a Carquest POS but only has 50 thousand miles on it.
I have driven hundreds of miles with this problem in the last week and the truck has never skipped a beat aside from the starting issue. I took the batteries in to no less than 3 places and they all said the batteries are good. However when I put my multimeter on them when it is being cranked the volts drop from 12.6is down to about 8 volts. When I did get it started the other day and put a meter on it the batteries were charging up to around 13.7 or so.
When there is no load on batteries they show good but have been unable to get a solid answer if any of these places are load testing them: I am convinced they are not. I checked the resistance of the cables and they all have none. The grounds are all good. So I pulled the starter and took it in as a last result. They say the starter is good also! The connections were all tight and I cleaned them all very well.
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The batteries keep dying. I can charge the batteries and drive it to work a couple of days and by the fourth day, it's dead again. Have replaced alternator, batteries, and starter and I am still having issues. Just noticed this weekend, the instrument cluster going off, coming back on, shutting off again all while the truck had been running for about an hour. I'm not sure if it is because the battery was dying or what. As soon as we got home after the instrument cluster incident, turned the truck off and tried to start it. The battery was completely dead.
I have been looking up on sites and I keep coming across the GEM Module. I want to ask around before I buy it. I have also noticed small issues with my 2000 Excursion. Back windshield wiper starts up upon the vehicle starting. Goes a few times and stops. Not sure if this is the same type of issue as in the GEM Module.
2002 Ford F350 7.3l Diesel with 148000 miles
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I'm in a real jam because my work truck won't start. 1999 F250 7.3 Diesel 157k mi. - Air and fuel filters were replaced in the last 500 miles. This pup ran fine when I parked it last Wednesday before the holiday.
Checked for start last night because I'd been having battery issues, Both were replaced the previous week. It's cranking good but just won't start, not even a bit. No wait to start light, oil level is good, can not get obd reader to link.
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I have a 6.0L diesel that is not a daily driver so it sits for days and even weeks at a time. When I go to start it the batteries will be run down to the point that sometimes the truck will not start and I will need to charge the batteries. I was thinking about installing a battery tender and leaving it plugged in so the batteries will stay charged. I'm looking at the tender in the link.
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My truck ran and drove then I changed my Steering Gearbox. After all that, I went to go start it, the trucked cranked and the batteries died. Hooked up the charger then and nothing, No start no crank. F250 2006 diesel 6.0 ...
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Found some oil and maybe coolant mix come out of one of my exhaust pipes. Trucks smoking pretty bad what is it?
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I have a 2006 f350 superduty 6.0l diesel and if one of the batteries are bad will it drain the good battery...had them tested and one tested good but I keep having to charge them both
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My a/c compressor crapped out a summer or two ago. I ordered a new compressor and dryer, oiled up the compressor properly, hooked it all up, vacuumed out the system, filled it with fresh 134a and it worked just fine for about a year. Mid-late last summer, the a/c quit working, so I hooked up my gauges to check it out.
Everything reads in the proper range. The high side is only about 150, which isn't stellar, but not terrible either - certainly enough to cool things down. Anyways, when I was sitting at idle checking things out, my compressor was running all the time and not cycling on or off. Given that I was not overcharged (according to my HF gauges), I tried to add a little more to it. It would only take half a bottle and the compressor never started cycling on/off, so I stopped tinkering with it for a while to think on it. I noticed that when I had it on driving in town, I could hear the a/c kick on and off every couple seconds like it was still low, but my gauges didn't indicate that it was low and it wasn't taking a charge like it was low. This whole time, the air from the vents is not even cool - just straight outside air temp and the lines don't feel cold either.
I had hot-wired my compressor to stay on and same story. The gauges show it's compressing with the low side right where it's supposed to be and the high side a tad low at idle, but easily jumping up to within spec with mild revs. The whole time, the vents and a/c lines are no colder than ambient.
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Just bought 2 new batteries as one was toast, and the 7.3 was really hard to start. After installing started like a new truck..This morning temp was 54 and would not start after several attempts, trys to run but after a few seconds stops. Just bought and looks like a new solonoid had been installed. What should I check??
2003 F-350 7.3
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My issue is not with the truck starting its with it staying running. I had plugged in all the night prior and all day while at work. When my shift was over went out started fine let it run for about 20 minutes and left to make my way home. During the trip it ran fine for about 1/2 a mile and then it started idling really rough at a stop light went to go threw the light and it as though I had left it out all night with plugging it in. I went to turn on a side street because this situation was not going to end well and it died trying to turn. It would not start back up I was able to get a jump and made another 1/4 of a mile and it died right in front of my house. I replaced both the batteries this morning and it fired right up lasted about a minute and then died again. All the gauge read fine, oil level is good, and the injectors were replaced 2 years ago.
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I have a 1999 f250 super duty and something keeps draining my battery, I replaced the old one and im having the same problem. What could it be?
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My starter solenoid keeps dying. I can't use a retail chain part. They burn up in a day. Always Motorcraft and it only lasts a year or so.
Any way to test this thing to see why it burns out prematurely?
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In the last 15k miles, I've replaced the led lights on my driver side mirror twice already, and come to see this morning: they are out again. The turn signal LEDs still work, but the parking lights don't work anymore. Passenger side is fine.
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My truck has been sitting more lately, which means up to a week without starting and running. Each time this happens I run into a dead battery. And I mean dead. I've charged it fully and then used the truck no problem.
We did a test where we unhooked the negative terminal wiring clamp and ran a meter to check for amp draw. We did this by touching the meter leads to the negative post clamp (unhooked) and to the negative post on the battery. It gives a reading of ~1.5 amps. Trying to figure out where the drain might be.
Otherwise, we'll jut pull each fuse to see if we find the electrical area drawing the amps.
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I was told that I have to disconnect both batteries if I want to remove my seats by a car-stereo place. Is this true? They said it was because of the air bag sensors.
Gotta remove the center seat to get an amp out from under there and to do that, you have to remove or at least loosen both front seats.
Is there a way to do this without disconnecting both batteries?
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How many Volts available at plug for charging FW batteries, and what can be don to trick alternator in to keep charging when truck batteries full, install larger wires? From alternator or truck battery, if yes which battery. 2015 F350 Lariat 200 alternator.
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The engine was just rebuilt, 7.3L diesel. New bottom end, cam and turbo also new harness for valve covers and injectors, new #8 injector(#8 cylinder lost compression). The engine cranks and idles great. Run it up to 1800rpm - 2200rpm and you get a miss or skip. Almost like the engine turns off and back on very quick, and it makes a clank noise. No codes, reading it with a OTC Genisys 4.0. I also swapped the PCM and IDM with another truck and it still does same thing. Other truck runs fine. Year model 2000 w/ 230,000 miles
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Dealing with a 02 f350 7.3 powerstroke . The engine cranks fine . It fires but won't start smoke coming from exhaust while cranking and firing so seems to have good fuel . When it does start it misses for a few minutes and blue/white smoke . When the miss ends so does the smoke and starts fine after that and runs great until it sits for 12 or more hrs . Then back to same start issues . Fresh oil ,new glow plugs, new cover gaskets , glow plugs test at 1.3 ohm across all 8 of them , no voltage drop through glow plug relay , good voltage to each glow plug when tested right at glow plug terminal on each feed right at glow plug , fuel filter housing stays full doesn't seem to bleed back , high pressure oil pump pressure test was high enough to trash a 1000 lbs gauge in 2 to 3 revalutions of engine when cranking . Tested at presure sensor port .
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Got 01 F350, 7.3
Started having issues with starter bogging down my batteries. Slow crank, it would catch anyway and runs great. I have spare used starter in the garage, threw that on and it cranks fast, but occasionally just free spins half way thru the cranking.
My question is, can I make one good starter from these two? Monday AM buyer is coming to get my truck, and I don't want to have to buy brand new starter if I can avoid it, but I want him to have reliable used starter.
What causes free spinning (not flex plate related), and what causes power drag and slow crank? I was thinking throw solenoid from fast starter onto slow one, since slow one doesn't spin out but it bogs down my voltage?
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I pulled the battery cables this weekend to install a flatbed on my 02 f350, I did do some welding on the frame of the flatbed during install and the bed was in contact with the truck frame which is why i removed the batt cables in the first place, now after my project is finished i have reconnected batts only to have my gauges bounce around and an audible clicking under the hood when I try to start, gauges bounce back and forth several times, odometer comes on slowly.
2002 f350 7.3 diesel 4x4 auto
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