Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: V10 Acts Like Engine Is Seized
Nov 5, 2013
hey I have a 99 v10 Super duty that won't start it acts like the engine us seized the guy I bought it from says, that it just shut off at avred light and he couldn't get bit started since then when I try to. Start the truck it acts like the engine is seized. I checked the oil and coolant both are clean and full.no signs of leaks I heard it could be the ac pump stopping the belt from moving, whats wrong with my truck?!
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Back in March while still plowing, my auto locking hubs wouldn't stay engaged. After talking to the local Ford service shop they told me that it was moisture in the vaccum lines and that it had frozen. They told me to manually lock the hubs and bring it in to be repaired when I had time. I made a appointment in the middle of May and finally got it in last week. Now the hubs are seized in the locked position and they will not warranty the work or parts because they say it was caused by the salt from our roads. Does this sound right?
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I have recently purchased an 04 F250 crew cab with the 6.0 power stroke, it has a cold air intake, 4inch exhaust from the turbo back and has a program in it but programmer didn't come with the truck. When I sit at a traffic light and go to leave on a green light the truck kind of hesitates or acts like it's missing out( maybe loading up) shoots out black smoke then runs fine, it doesn't do it at all the stop lights but does get irritating. If I get it flashed back to stock settings will the truck run normal with all the upgrades?
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I recently purchased an '08 F-350 4x4 Lariet Supercab 6.4l and was told by the 3rd party inspection that it needs rear brake pads (2mm left). Are the caliper pistons retractable without having the pistons seize down the road? HOw about the fronts? See below.
I ask as on my '06 F-250 XLT 4x2 5.4l the rear calipers seized without even doing a pad change and the fronts seized about 100 miles after a pad change. Come to find out it is a common problem with the '06 and the calipers either have to be replaced or rebuilt when changing pads. Now I've been "told" to expect the same with the '08.
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New issue I've discovered , when stopping , the RPM's drop down to 500, truck acts like it wants to stall , then goes up to 750 RPM's . Then it's fine . Doesn't hesitate when accelerating . Idles slightly rough after start up , about 30 seconds . I've checked the air filter , cleaned the IAC and MAF. Fuel filter is only a year old . What I should check next ?
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I'm having multiple electrical problems and not sure if all related or not but they started at the same time.
1) Occasionally (getting more frequent) truck acts like its almost dead and wont start, but if i remote start it cranks right up
2) Radio doesn't shut off when I open the door, but if i close it and open again it does
3) phone staying connected to bluetooth but its acting up when trying use phone for music
Pretty sure there is more but I cant think of them now.
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i replaced my a/c compressor on my 2006 f-250 2 yrs ago but had not refilled with r134..only the pag oil. Now i decide to refill seeing my wife uses the truck and compressor would not engage, i was able to bypass it by removing relay and jumping it with a paperclip. Compressor started up but seems to have seized on pully. the pulley seems fine and still turning freely. I can no longer turn it manually when truck is stopped and i could before i jumped it. could the clutch only be replaced or does the bearing and pulley have to be replaced
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Noticed a burnt rubber smell while driving today. Stopped at a gas station and before I could get around to the other side of the truck, a guy stopped and told me there was smoke coming from the passenger rear wheel well. The truck seemed to run and drive fine. Didn't seem to be any noticeable drag, but once I got home I felt that wheel and it was a bit warmer than the others.
My parking brake pedal is all the way out and pulling on the release doesn't seem to relieve any pressure or "Pop" like it normally would if releasing the brake. We've got a good downpour of freezing rain right now and I'm not able to start pulling things apart. Anything easy I can try for now? Pretty sure it's seized by the way it's acting but I really don't use the parking brake. Auto trans and I live in a really flat area.
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06 F550 w/5r110w. Truck and trans runs great then trans acts like it was shifted into neutral, rpm's flare up and if you don't get your foot out of it the trans will re engage aggressively. Changed the speed sensor on the rear axle, there are no codes, had a trans shop change the filters and fluids then change out all of the solenoids. They tell me its not a trans problem.
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Wanted to get feedback if it is a good idea to change the oil the very first time in a new truck sooner to ensure no engine breakin contaminates get in the engine?
I have a new F250 6.2 that I have put 1300 miles on in the last month. First 1k break in, last 300 miles towing 8k. Was thinking of doing the first change at 1500 miles and then every 5000 miles after at that point.
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My 2007 f250 power stroke 6.0. My A/C comp went out. After replacing it I was told that my fan clutch is bad and will cause the new ac to go out. My engine is not running hot. The fan still spins for a while after engine is turned off.
1) Could it have not been re installed correctly?
2) How do I know my Fan Clutch is bad?
3) How do I replace it myself?
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I bought this truck used several months back and have ran it extremely hard. It's supposedly studded and EGR deleted. The whole engine was replaced at 183,xxx by some diesel place. Anyways, while I was driving I smelled coolant and thought that was funny so I ignored it. Anyways, My livewire tuner started seeing a coolant and engine oil increase. I figured I'd go ahead and drive it home. It got to 153 F* and the coolant was around 129 F* The oil cooler has been clogging up and I just got my brand new Ford one in.
So that will be replaced sooner rather than later. When I got home, I checked the coolant level and there was nothing in it!! It was pretty much empty. So I put the water hose on it and turned the water on and after about 2 mins steam started coming out near the turbo. I mean a crapload of steam. I turned the water on again and saw that it was coming out right next to the EGR delete. It's hard to tell exactly but looks like the intake manifold??? What could it be? It's not the hose for the EGR. The degas bottle has never overflowed, there's no white smoke except on cold starts in really cold temps.
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2011 F-250 King Ranch, bought new, 59,995 miles. Dealer Serviced, always. ESP to 100K.
Took it in for an oil change, running perfect. Jan 4.
Service writer comes and gets me after 2 hours. "Engine locked up after they went to start it after oil change."
They are getting a remanufactured long block from Ford.
I am still in shock.....
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I heard today that, to remove the engine, the cab has to be raised?
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The 2011 have been out for awhile now. How about some of you with the 6.2L engines sharing your gas mileage. I have not seen anything but better than last year's model in advertisements.
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What do you all feel is the life expectancy of the new gas engines in the Super Dutys?
I'm thinking for ~30,000 mile a year driver mostly highway no major towing, just ladder racks and some tool boxes.
I've been a diesel pickup owner for years so I'm curious what you all would be happy to expect from a new purchase.
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I have a 2002 F-450 crew cab 2wd automatic 7.3 diesel with 298k on the body and about 120k on a Jasper engine. About a month ago I started it in the morning to let it warm up. Went to make coffee. Came back and it had died. It was low on fuel and I didn't pay attention. Played hell getting it primed back up. Now if I don't let it warm up for twenty minutes it won't run worth a flip and has been dying out. Changed fuel filter. Unplugged ICP. No change. When I crank it it will turn over for about thirty seconds then oil pressure gauge moves, then engine starts to run very roughly. It will die. I repeat a few times. It will eventually start and start and stay running. Blows whitish grey smoke until it warms up. No loss in power till CEL comes on. Still not too much loss. Sometimes it takes a long time to get it running. Sometimes it will die after I get out of the driveway if I don't let it warm up. Truck was serviced maybe 3000 miles ago. No water in fuel. New fuel filter. New air filter. It is a company truck. I work for a small company building cell towers.
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Where is the best/easiest location to run some wires from the cab to the engine compartment?
I need to run some wires for a remote start with alarm and a backup camera.
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I need to get the valves closed on one of the cylinders. So how do I turn it over slowly by hand? I couldn't find videos on youtube. It seems that it's just common knowledge on how to do that.
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Just changed the oil in my 6.0 and I'm sitting here looking at my tuner and is telling me my idle rpms are about 770.
Before I changed my oil it idled around 750.
It's running fine, I was just wondering why it changed? More pressure to the injectors with the newer oil?
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As of yesterday, Ford has just informed me that my problem is not their problem. The engine and a turbo on my 2012 Ford F-350 Super Duty went south at 114,000 miles; 14,000 miles north of the warranty. The cost of repairs from the dealership is high. I don't have that kind of money, especially since I ran my own transportation business with my truck and have been effectively put out of a job since the end of October, 2014.
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