Ford - Taurus :: 2002 - Overheated And Engine Won't Start
Jan 3, 2016
I drove 10 hours in my 02 Ford Taurus perfectly fine then a day later New Year's Day car didn't start for some reason I took it to the shop turns out I needed a new alternator, battery, new belt, made sure all wiring was good, and topped off all fluids (which were very low) ...... After that everything was fine for awhile then in the evening I drove bout 36-40 mins turns out my fan wasn't on the whole drive and car started smoking bad (white smoke) when I got to a parking garage popped the hood water was trying to burst out of its compartment in a panic.
I opened the dam thing shit spewed everywhere and burned my arm we let the car cool down started it again added water to the tank where it was lost everything seemed ok then not too long later I was getting off the highways car starts smoking yet again but this time the engine literally stop working I pull over looked under the hood white smoke is now coming from engine and when I try to restart it it's starts and died couple seconds later and from the looks of it I was leaking some fluid as I was getting off the highway and still was leaking something when I pulled over. I just got smacked for the alternator earlier in the day and now all this happens and I'm so confused ...
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So my Malibu overheated for the first time, and note it just won't start up..
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On a long trip (about halfway through a 1500 mile journey), I ran over a tire at 65 miles an hour. I stupidly kept going (as I was heading to the hospital to literally be with my father as he was dying). After 350 more miles (with 5 hours of rest in between) the car was showing hot (with no smells or symptoms) so I pulled into a shop. When the mechanic went out to pull the car in, it would not start. They let it cool and pulled it in, did a test and showed me a tube with the radiator fluid in it that was greyish. They told me my head gasket was blown and that the cost of repairing it was the same as the value of my car. I had to abandon the car, and rent a car to get to my dad. He died, and now I'm having to deal with the car.
The insurance company said they would cover the bumper damage but not the engine, as they could not prove running over the tire caused the engine to overheat. The car has 200,000 miles on it and is 13 years old, but had a new timing chain, pump, etc. ($1,900) of work a few months ago...and was running like a charm. There have never been any concerns about the engine in the past and the car has never overheated for any reason. I take care of it meticulously. It seems suspicious to me that there would be no link between running over a tire earlier that day, and the overheating.
When the owner of the shop put it on the lift, he says there was nothing obvious like a hose hanging down, etc., and so he thinks its unrelated to running over the tire. Because he said this, the insurance company will not cover the engine repair or give me a check for the totaled car.
I'm thinking of having the car towed to a different shop to get a second opinion. What should they look for? How can I prove this is linked? Now, the car has sat for 10 days. Is all evidence going to be gone at this point. What should I do? I have $3,000 to lose here, by giving up.
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2002 Taurus all lights work, turn key and dash lights come on normal, nothing flashing and anti-theft lights and turns off. Turn to start and nothing. Used to start w/remote starter but that quit working as well. I replaced the starter and battery and car still wont start with the key, but does start with remote.
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My 2002 mustang with 97k miles just had what has been described to me as a severely overheated transmission. The O/D OFF light was flashing and I noticed some faint smoke and a terrible odor from the burning transmission fluid. I was told by a nearby transmission specialist that it would cost $2500 to rebuild the transmission and put in an external cooling device (which he said was necessary).
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My daughter has a 1997 Taurus SHO and it's been running pretty well until this morning when a turn of the key failed to start the engine. The battery is fully charged but when she turns the key, we get the click from several places under the hood, including the starter relay. I'm pretty sure it's the starter relay, it's inside of the fuse box, is identified as "starter" on the guide printed inside of the cover and is black plastic about 1.5 inches square. The windows, radio, horn and all of the other accessories work, but no reaction to the key.
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I have a 2001 ford taurus. just changed the engine with a used engine has 130k, did tuneup changing all spark plugs, wires and distributor cap. Also changed the 02 sensor upstream. And the check engine light remains on. if i start the car and it idles the check engine light flashes. but once i drive it, it just remains on. brought to the mechanic and he put on the machine and it reads that the problem is the 02 sensor upstream and the spark plugs misfiring. my mechanic is lost not sure what the problem is. someone told me it could be the manifold gaskets and pedlum gasket.
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When starting, especially in colder temperatures, the engine start is interrupted by a "thud" sound. The start occurs after this one-second "interruption" while I keep the key in the start position. This interruption occurs only once, usually when first starting in the morning. Subsequent starts are normal,unless the car has not been in use for a few hours. Then the "first start" problem re-occurs. The starter motor has been replaced. No improvement.When the problem first began a few months ago, very intermittently, the gauges in the dashboard would not register as would normally happen and I could hear a whirring sound for a few seconds. Then the gauges would perform as normal. This is a 2004 Taurus with mileage of 64,000.
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Check engine light on and code is P1451. I have been told its one or all four things:
1. Gas cap,
2. Evap Canister vent solenoid,
3. Evap purge solenoid,
4. Evap canister.
I am trying to fix this problem on the Taurus. I have changed the Gas cap and this did not solve the problem. The other three things on the list: Are these three separate things? Or are they part of the same thing?
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Left the cap off my degas bottle after checking it this morning. Drove a couple hundred miles and it overheated and died. Cooled it off, filled it up with water out here, now it won't start.
When I first tried, before I got it full of water, it barely cranked. Now, it cranks fine, even sounds like it cranks too fast. But nothing. Did I really blow it this time? I don't have my ScanGuage.
Strangely, the oil pressure gauge registers normal as soon as I turn the key on, and stays there while cranking. I'm used to them starting at O, then registering after cranking a few seconds.
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My impala over heated on me and it doesn't turn on..... What is wrong with it?
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I changed my plugs a few days ago on my 96' Taurus GL 3.0LI checked under my hood to check the recommended gap size and it said .42 to .46.. I went with .46. after putting them in i started the car up just fine, but later in the day i noticed when I came to a stop at a red light my car would sputter and my check engine light would start blinking. When I'd accelerate and drive it again everything would clear up and the light would stop blinking. I didn't change the wires, just the plugs in case you were wondering but I am unsure of how much that would influence my problem. Today after work i had a little trouble starting my car. After a few tries it started and my exhaust smelt rich in gasoline. Did i gap them too much? Should i get new plugs again and regap them? should i buy new wires also?Is my ignition coil going bad?
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Have 1994 F150 with 5.0L engine. Check engine light, intermittent on due to overheated O2 sensor. Replace sensor, light goes off. The sensor will last longer in cold weather but will fail with same code. Is the overheating due to an electrical problem from the ECU or ambient tempreture. Would like to sell truck but don't want to hand the buyer a dozen O2 sensors.
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My points to electronic conversion suffered this problem, just started, set the timing and was idling, like ten minutes or more, suddendly the engine died, no spark, immediately I noticed the module was very hot, so was the ignition coil, it's a TFI "square" coil from a 1987 Econoline I6, the module is a new Spartan brand name blue module.
I cooled the module with a wet rag and the engine came back to life. I hooked up the module and the coil with full 12V, no ballast resistance for the coil, I'm feeling this is the problem, maybe this coil needed a ballast resistor?
I have this 1.6 ohmm ballast, if I install this, will the coil run cooler and put less strain in the module, so it won't overheat? or the TFI coil is wrong for the Duraspark ? it was running fine with the points, never missed a beat, never tested how hot it run with the points though, but I did used the ballast resistor with the points.
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Got a call from my wife earlier today. My 6.0 overheated on her and now its having issues.
Its got around 135k miles, always been taken care of, never missed an oil change and just recently changed/flushed the coolant system with Rotella Ultra ELC. I also cleaned the EGR, which looked great when I pulled it.
So tonight, she was driving it, and she gets the "check gauges" light come on, and notices its temp is hitting the red line. She pulls over, turns it off and calls me. I leave work, and pick up 4 gallons of distilled water just in case. It had cooled off a bit when I got there, so we added 3 gallons of distilled and it fired up and I drove it home. The temp was back to normal and running fine, but I was seeing a good bit of white smoke coming from the exhaust. I couldnt really tell if it was steam or something else. When I got home, I turned the truck off and the exhaust looked wet, which was odd since its about 80 degrees today, and there shouldn't be any condensation forming.
I let the truck sit for a few hours and went out to start it again, and now, the engine wont even turn over. The starter engages the flywheel, but it just goes "CLUNK!" and the crank never even tries to spin.
What is going on. The truck ran fine and was running at normal temp after I added the water. My wife didn't drive it but a few hundred yards after getting the "check guages" and noticing it was hot.
Is it possible that my EGR cooler or something has burst and filled my intake and engine with coolant, causing it to hydrolock? Or is the engine just completely seized?
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I have a 2002 Ford Taurus with 219000+ on it. The las couple times that I have driven when the air temp was over 85 the temp gage moves to hot when the air is on. When I turn the air off the temp comes down. I have checked the fans and they are running. I also looked at the condenser and it seems to be clear. I have talked with some one and he suggested flushing the radiator.
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My A/C does not work on my Taurus. It never has since I bought the car about 7 months ago. A few days ago I attempted to add freon. I started adding it with the A/C on at max. As I started adding A/C my compressor kicked on and started making an ominous noise; the sound was of air hissing for about 2.5 - 3 seconds punctuated by a click. So it would go something like this: airrrrrrrrrrr CLICK airrrrrrrrrr CLICK airrrrrrrr CLICK etc... My A/C starting to cool EVERSO slightly; almost imperceptible. It was advertised as having COLD A/C but I could not very well test it as I bought it in the dead of winter.
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I have LOVED my 2002 Taurus SEL..until just recently. I have ac but no heat! which is a bit of a problem because I am in Minnesota and soon the snow will be flying!! Also, my vents on my dash are not working either.
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Driving an 02 Taurus, 3.0 motor. Trans was rebuilt recently. Car seems to drive smoothly, with 1 driver. But on a road with dips, the trans seems to hum while car is down in dip. Hum lasts for 1-2 seconds. Back on level road, car is quiet. Only had car for a few weeks. I noticed hum within 1 day of driving. Tires? Wheel bearing? So, last weekend I had 3 passengers. Tried to accelerate up on ramp and the "hum" was very noticeable while accelerating. Any light cruising, the car seems quiet. I am leaning towards binding cv axles? Or bad valve body. Or something internal in trans. Gonna talk to former owner who paid for trans work.
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Just today I noticed an indicator showing up on my dashboard. The indicator shows the passenger side of the car, and a little screw coming out of it. I grabbed the giant book of boredom (Car manual) and the indicator is one for checking the gas cap and says once the gas cap is seated properly the light will go out.
I reseated the gas cap making sure it clicked when I turned it, and drove the car for about 45 minutes (My drive back home), and the light has continued to stay lit. What seems strange is that the check engine light is not showing up, which I know typically happens if the gas cap is not on properly.
Is there a sensor somewhere in the car that will cause that 'check gas cap' light to come on, and if so is it something I could find and replace myself, or am I better off going to a shop?
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Found on road dead is right, my car has 160000 miles before it broke down. The early symptoms that I noticed was my brake light would come on every now and then. When my car first broke down a plastic pin or clip that connects to the column above the transmission next to the senor disconnected. I noticed this when my car wouldn't move and then I put it back into the hole so it can shift into which it did when I started it. I then went to a store and got a metal pin to hold it in place so I can shift into my gears.
After I left the store about 30 min later I was trying to get up to speed and my car wouldn't go over 45 mph and then wouldn't shift into any gears and I parked it on the did of the road. I later replace the plastic pin that holds the shifter cable to the transmission column and still nothing. I then thought it was the transmission range sensor because the brake light is on and still nothing. When I turn on my car the brake light remains on and I can shift out of park and when i do that it will shift threw all the gears. I'm starting to think my transmission gone but I'm confused why the brake light is on.
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