Ford - Taurus :: Engine Start Is Interrupted By Thud Sound Especially In Colder Temperatures
Mar 2, 2014
When starting, especially in colder temperatures, the engine start is interrupted by a "thud" sound. The start occurs after this one-second "interruption" while I keep the key in the start position. This interruption occurs only once, usually when first starting in the morning. Subsequent starts are normal,unless the car has not been in use for a few hours. Then the "first start" problem re-occurs. The starter motor has been replaced. No improvement.When the problem first began a few months ago, very intermittently, the gauges in the dashboard would not register as would normally happen and I could hear a whirring sound for a few seconds. Then the gauges would perform as normal. This is a 2004 Taurus with mileage of 64,000.
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2001 ford taurus. The heater worked (not great) then slowly got colder each week for 4wks changed the thermostat.
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Have a Honda 2006 CRV 89K miles. When I start the car put it into drive first time at or near to the first gear change point get a thud sound (sound from the rear, maybe left rear as face vehicle). However as drive the car around coming to a stop without turning off the vehicle, on acceleration no sound. If I park the vehicle on restart and acceleration get the same sound but depending on the amount of time the vehicle is out of gear the sound seems to be lessened (less time less sound).
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2005 Ford Taurus
It always makes this sound when I first start and it is wet outside. After a few minutes the sound stops, presumably after whatever is squealing dries up.
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2003 Ford Taurus, Vulcan V6 (OHV), 40k miles. I picked it up in January, occasionally I would hear a "chirp" sound with the engine running. I assumed it was the serpentine belt and replaced it. It seemed to work.
Today the chirping started once the car was warmed up. I did some research and discovered the chirp sound is a symptom of a worn synchronizer. I checked with a mechanics stethoscope and verified the chirp is coming from the area of the synchronizer.
I'm debating doing the repair myself, regardless I won't do the repair until the weather warms up. It not my primary car, but I would still like to drive it a couple times a week. The chirping is intermittent for the moment. Am I risking anything driving it as is?
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While driving my 2001 F350 7.3 today running errands it started to have a real concerning issue. Once I slowed down back into my neighborhood it would make a thud, then feel like someone was pushing the brakes (even when i gave it gas). Then it would thud again and drive normal. I'm worried its the transmission getting ready to go. Any input?
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I drove 10 hours in my 02 Ford Taurus perfectly fine then a day later New Year's Day car didn't start for some reason I took it to the shop turns out I needed a new alternator, battery, new belt, made sure all wiring was good, and topped off all fluids (which were very low) ...... After that everything was fine for awhile then in the evening I drove bout 36-40 mins turns out my fan wasn't on the whole drive and car started smoking bad (white smoke) when I got to a parking garage popped the hood water was trying to burst out of its compartment in a panic.
I opened the dam thing shit spewed everywhere and burned my arm we let the car cool down started it again added water to the tank where it was lost everything seemed ok then not too long later I was getting off the highways car starts smoking yet again but this time the engine literally stop working I pull over looked under the hood white smoke is now coming from engine and when I try to restart it it's starts and died couple seconds later and from the looks of it I was leaking some fluid as I was getting off the highway and still was leaking something when I pulled over. I just got smacked for the alternator earlier in the day and now all this happens and I'm so confused ...
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My daughter has a 1997 Taurus SHO and it's been running pretty well until this morning when a turn of the key failed to start the engine. The battery is fully charged but when she turns the key, we get the click from several places under the hood, including the starter relay. I'm pretty sure it's the starter relay, it's inside of the fuse box, is identified as "starter" on the guide printed inside of the cover and is black plastic about 1.5 inches square. The windows, radio, horn and all of the other accessories work, but no reaction to the key.
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I've had my '96 Saab 900S for almost 6 years and it has 119K miles. Last weekend w/ the below freezing temperatures, she decided not to start on me again. I'll reiterate the word "again" as this non-starting problem happens once or twice every winter, when the temperatures are very cold, usually 20 degrees or colder. I've taken it to the mechanic who doesn't know why it continues to do this to me every winter during a really cold spell. As soon as the weather warms up 30 degrees or higher, the car starts up fine w/in a couple tries. During the non-starting fiscal the car will turn over, but then just dies, as if it is "starving for fuel".
On a few occasions I've tried the "cold start", or pushing the gas pedal while turning the engine on for 5-10 seconds, and then trying to start the car normally right after. This has worked on occasion in the past, but isn't a sure bet, this last weekend it didn't work. Recent work includes new battery, distributer cap and rotors, spark plugs, fuel line checked out "ok", and fluid changes are regularly maintained. Does it sound electrical or mechanical? No check engine light comes on so it makes it hard to diagnose. As this car was built in Sweden, it shouldn't be so temperamental in the below freezing weather every winter.
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I have a 2001 ford taurus. just changed the engine with a used engine has 130k, did tuneup changing all spark plugs, wires and distributor cap. Also changed the 02 sensor upstream. And the check engine light remains on. if i start the car and it idles the check engine light flashes. but once i drive it, it just remains on. brought to the mechanic and he put on the machine and it reads that the problem is the 02 sensor upstream and the spark plugs misfiring. my mechanic is lost not sure what the problem is. someone told me it could be the manifold gaskets and pedlum gasket.
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I did some searching on brake and suspension related issues to no avail. When I let our excursion sit overnight, and get in it to leave in the morning...drop it in reverse and let off the brakes, I get a 'thud' noise in the rear of the vehicle.
It sounds like a brake pad sticking and immediately freeing itself when the vehicle is in motion. We don't set the parking break. The brake pads and rotors are new, calipers and pins moved freely, parking brake shoes seemed to be in great shape.
The only thing I noticed was a small leak from the rear axle seal which could possibly be saturating the ebrake shoes and causing them to swell and stick overnight. The only other thing I can think of is maybe suspension related.
I have noticed it when pulling forward into and out of a prolonged parking spot so I don't think it is driveline related. It also doesn't occur any other time except for after sitting for several hours.
It sounds like the spare tire is loose and rocks forward slightly and hits the back of the seat. I checked that also. Very faint thud..
2004' 4x4 with the 6.0 & 185k
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I have a 2003 Subaru Forester XS, bought it new, has almost 100,000 miles. Only take it to the dealer. Regular oil changes, and routine maintenance. Around 65-70,000 miles, I began to hear a sound like a playing card against a bicycle wheel in colder temps only. Dealer called it 'piston clatter' and not to worry about it. So I didn't. Over the years it has become a year around sound, even worse in colder temps. I've been afraid to drive it out of town on the interstate or highways because at times the engine sounds as if it's going to jump out of the car. I wrote to Subaru corporate, only to be referred back to the dealer, who again, will only tell me it's 'piston clatter'. I have used fuel additives, and a tank of premium every now and then. Still makes the same sound.
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When I purchased my car last year I ordered it with the remote starter. It works great unless the weather is 12 degrees or colder, then it will not start the car. This morning I tried to remote start, it started it for 2 seconds then shut off, I did it again with the same result. I then went out and physically started the car and went back inside only to go out 15 minutes later to find the car stopped running but the radio was still playing. I then restarted the car and again went back inside 15 minutes later the car this time it was still running and was just starting to melt the ice on the windows. I have had issues in the past with the remote starter not working but today I actually went to the door and listened to what it was doing.
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I am getting a thud sound when the rear tires run over a bump no matter big or small. I removed the tire jack and it is still there. Could the sound be coming the rear struts or maybe the sway bar bushings? It seems to have gotten worse the last several months.
2003 Camry with 110,000 miles.
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I have just bought a 2000 Passat 30valve V6, from a dead stop when I accelerate it makes a weird "thud" sound and feeling under my feet, almost like when you have a broken tranny mount on a chevy. I have been told that it is the "TPS" or throttle body?? It does not do this shifting into any other gear.
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I changed my plugs a few days ago on my 96' Taurus GL 3.0LI checked under my hood to check the recommended gap size and it said .42 to .46.. I went with .46. after putting them in i started the car up just fine, but later in the day i noticed when I came to a stop at a red light my car would sputter and my check engine light would start blinking. When I'd accelerate and drive it again everything would clear up and the light would stop blinking. I didn't change the wires, just the plugs in case you were wondering but I am unsure of how much that would influence my problem. Today after work i had a little trouble starting my car. After a few tries it started and my exhaust smelt rich in gasoline. Did i gap them too much? Should i get new plugs again and regap them? should i buy new wires also?Is my ignition coil going bad?
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When I am going into or downshifting to second gear in my GLI it makes a thud sound after I let out the clutch. It doesn't always happen and it does it if I just throw it down and if I don't have a perfect rev match. It just started a few days ago.
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I have coilovers on my R32 with adjustable control arms and have been noticing a "thud" type of noise when going over uneven surfaces which appears to be coming from the rear.
I actually periodically noticed this noise when I first got the PSS's put on my car when going over larger bumps/dips in the road but lately it is becoming much more pronounced - occurring over uneven surfaces like parking ramps or driving over crappy roads. Over smooth surfaces, no problem.
Thought it was my rear sway bar bushings since they were making a really bad creaking noise, got those replaced and still noticing this damn noise.
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After replacing the battery and starter...as well as replacing the alternator (bench tested good), I'm still greeted with one 'thud' when attempting to turn the engine over. The battery light is one in the dash. I've been through this scenario with more than a couple vehicles that haven't started in the past. I do the normal check the battery, wires, alternator, fuses, and starter. Somewhere along that line...it always fixes the issue. Not so here. I have to admit that I'm at a loss at the moment.
2001 F-150 5.4L
115k
Replaced starter
Replaced batter
Alternator bench tested good
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So I was turning into my neighborhood tonite, when I got a really loud thud and a major hesitation in the engine. Fortunately I was in my neighborhood and could basically coast to my house.
No CEL came on and I don't seem to have any leakage (only thing dripping underneath was condensation from a/c I believe). Obviously too late for service tonite, so have tow scheduled for 7am. What could have happened? The no CEL has me confused. I was able to restart it and it seems to idle fine, but give it has and it hesitates.
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I took my 2005 V6 'Reg into the dealership for service. It has about 6700 miles. The problem is it sounds like the amp is 'clipping', which means there is a loud electric 'thud' sound when I lock/unlock the doors. While there I asked the service advisor to do all applicable TSBs and informed her that sometimes the CD player won't eject the CD. Lastly, I advised them that the wipers made a really loud sound when they wipe.
Well, this dealership does not have loaner cars available. They have outsourced them to Enterprise Rent-A-Car. The dealership will pay $30 per day and I am responsible for the taxes, which are 15% of the $30 per day. Is this fair? I don't think I should be responsible for paying taxes for a rental car (a Mitsu Lancer or VW Jetta were my two choices, no less).
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