I have a 2006 Ford Taurus SE. Tried to start the car, it would turn over, but would not catch. I shut it off and tried again and it started right up. Is this a sign of trouble and needs something?
View 10 RepliesMy 2005 Nissan Altima has been fairly reliable up until the past two years, as it seems several aspects of the cars performance are starting to decline rapidly. I recently changed a headlight bulb, and upon reconnecting the battery, the engine refused to turn over and catch when I turned the ignition. After several tries, the car started and I noticed the check engine light has come on. I took it to AutoZone to get a read out, and the told me that I got two error codes: one for crankshaft position sensor and one for engine speed sensor. It's been a while since I got the readout, and I lost the paper with that I wrote the codes on, but I think the codes may have been P0335 for the crankshaft position sensor and P0725 for the engine speed sensor.
I changed the crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensors on my car, and the problem changed from a major problem to a moderate problem. The car performance now:
1) The check engine light is still on
2) When starting my car, I turn the ignition to connect the battery, wait a few seconds, turn to start the engine, and it takes about 3 turnover attempts before the engine catches and the car starts (inserting the key and turning it straight over to try and turn on the car often results in turnover attempts with no start).
3) When driving, the car now shifts hard at times and seems to be changing gears at higher RPMs than expected.
4) When going up a steep incline, as I press on the gas, the car RPMs go up but the car does not accelerate like it used to. It eventually shifts very hard into the lower gear and then I can accelerate up the incline at a much higher RPM rate than expected
I was reading wear these issues may be caused by a clogged fuel system, but I wanted to check with some of you guys to see what you think it may be before I go trying a fix on anything.
In terms of car care, I would say I'm fairly responsible. I get the oil changed regularly, and have always gotten scheduled maintenance taken care of as well as any maintenance at the recommendations of the mechanics I trust.
My daughter has a 1997 Taurus SHO and it's been running pretty well until this morning when a turn of the key failed to start the engine. The battery is fully charged but when she turns the key, we get the click from several places under the hood, including the starter relay. I'm pretty sure it's the starter relay, it's inside of the fuse box, is identified as "starter" on the guide printed inside of the cover and is black plastic about 1.5 inches square. The windows, radio, horn and all of the other accessories work, but no reaction to the key.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1999 ford taurus (3L,automatic) which I use here on the farm. A fluid leak in the return line from the cooler needed to be repaired last summer now after a couple of months a new problem occurred. When you stop and turn off the engine power steering fluid explodes out the filler cap. The fluid is foamy with air. I replaced the pump with a good used pump, then replaced the rack with a remanufactured unit and checked all the lines. I can't detect any evidence of a leak, (The old rack did appear to leak). I suspect that this is caused by an air leak in the return circuit causing air in the fluid which is compressed until the pump stops then expanding back through the pump into the reservoir.
View 3 Replieshad my battery checked not the problem. When i try to start just a click wait a bit and might take several tries for it to catch and turn over....my question is i have under 50k miles...
View 4 RepliesThe passenger door doesn't always want to close? It's being very finicky. Basically, every so often (with no regularity) it seems as though the door won't "catch" and close. If I pull but the interior handle, and/or exterior handle a few times it eventually gets there.
Like (probably most of you) I replaced the actuator, and even had to replace the window motor on this side, so I'm intimately familiar with the inner workings of these doors, and how everything has to be taken apart to do any work with them.
It's pretty annoying, and I'm worried the thing could just fly open while I'm on the road.
My truck's been having an occasional hard start, meaning the engine cranks strong but it fails to catch and then sputters. The 2nd start attempt usually fires up with no issues and then runs perfectly otherwise.
MPG's haven't changed, fuel filter was changed 15K ago. Air filter is clean. Plugs were changed about 10K ago. I always use Shell/Chevron gas. MAF sensor looked clean when I took it out so I didn't do anything to it.
This is starting to happen more frequently, maybe once every few weeks and I get a feeling it's the start of something. I've found myself waiting a few seconds for the fuel pressure gauge to come up before turning the key to start reliably. In the past, I could simply flick the key and it fires up the first time.
I see posts talking about the fuel pump module above the spare tire. What are symptoms of that going bad? Any pending codes that might be stored?
I'm about to get myself a scanner since I need one sooner or later. Which specific PID's to check while debugging this?
I have a 2008 Accent, automatic, with 167,000 mostly city kilometers on it. 3 times, yesterday and today, when I turned the ignition on it sounded like it was going to start but didn't catch. When I tried again the second time it started. At first, I thought I just didn't turn the key to the right long enough but with it happening 3 times, I am not so sure.
I called my mechanic and he thought it might be the fuel pump. He suggested I turn it to the right then back 2 times, then start it the third time. I have spent a lot on it lately, new tires in April, transmission fluid, also had to replace the tie rod on one front wheel and bearings on the other. If it is the fuel pump, what happens if I don't replace it soon?
2003 Jetta GLS 1.8T with the 5-speed transmission. The car is fine when it's driven conservatively. but when I try to get on it or pass in traffic, it feels as if the car is trying to catch up with the engine. Press the gas, the RPM spikes, the car slowly gets up to speed and the RPM drops back down to a normal level.
For example, on the highway the car usually sits at 3000 RPM @ 70 MPH. If I want to get it up to 80, the RPMs jump to 4500, the car gets up to 80 and the RPMs drop back down to 3100.
Some days it's pretty bad, other days it's fine. My guess is that the transmission is slipping, the clutch is going or the turbo is bad.
I have a 1997 Ford Taurus LX v6 DOHC. The car has almost 150000 miles. After driving the car for about 30 - 45 mins, I turn it off. About 20 mins later, I go to turn on the car and it has trouble starting and stay running. I turn the key to start it and it begins to sputter and then cuts off. When this happens, the RPM goes up and down and never gets to 700 - 800 RPM. After waiting for about 10 mins, the car finally starts but I have to push on the gas pedal to get it started and kept running. Once started, it runs fine. The car has enough gas, the fuel pump kicks on, and the oil level is full.
View 1 RepliesThis has been driving me crazy for the past 3 years. My car has 276,000 miles and runs great with no hesitation. I drive this car 1/2 the year and my 2012 Nissan Altima the rest of the year. I alternate every other month so neither car sits for too long.
My problem is most of the time the 2003 FORD TAURUS starts right up. However, sometimes, about 1 out of 5 times or so of starting, when I turn the key, I get nothing. The dash board lights come on, but the car does not start. So I found that after turning the key back and forth from ON to ACC (with nothing) and then turning the key back and forth (left to right and back) after doing that 6 or 7 times, the car finally starts .
Then it runs fine, starts the next 5 or 6 times with no problem. Then I turn the key to start it again, then nothing. So I turn the key back and forth 6 or 7 times and it starts. I took it to the Ford dealer and they said I need a starter. I went out and bought a starter and had Pep Boys install the starter (total price was around 1/3 the price quoted from FORD dealer). By the way, Pep Boys also said a new starter will fix this.
Then 3 months later, same problem. I took it back to Pep Boys and they said most likely the starter is defective. So I got the starter replaced, and all was great for another 3 months. Then the same problem. So I took it to NTB and NTB said it was also the starter. So I had them install a brand new starter.
All was Ok. My battery is brand new and my alternator is ok, used but OK.
Then 6 months later, the same problem. So a friend of mine tried to fix it. He unplugged the battery over nite, and had my re plug the battery cables to the battery terminals the next morning. And all was fine for 4 months. Then the same problem again. This time it took about 14 or 15 key turns before the car finally started. (Note: after 8 turns of the key back and forth, it resets the key FOB for programming on the Ford Taurus). This guy checked my electrical and cable from the starter to the battery, and he said all was Ok. He then tried to start the car, turned the key, and it started right up.
I don't mind turning the key back and forth, but if someone is in the car with me with the summer Atlanta heat and humidity, it can be a little uncomfortable, until the car finally starts. Keep in mind, the car always starts eventually. The car has never let me Down. I got the car in 2007 and the car still runs great and the A.C. blows super cold, no funny smells inside the car and the transmission is good. I like this car. I think it is built Much better than the 2012 Nissan Altima.
I own a 1994 Ford Taurus. One day o had made a sharp left turn and jolted my car and every since then my left blinker is constantly on. It doesn't shut off and doesn't switch to the right one. I tried the replacing the fuse with a spare one and completely took the fuse out because I can't figure out how to fix it. The handle to turn the blinker works fine and clicks in all the right places. But how do I fix this?
View 4 RepliesI have a 99 Lumina 3.1l. I live in a cold climate (-15f). I hadn't driven the car in 2 months, and the block heater doesn't work as there is a short somewhere.
I want to get the car on the road again and before insuring it I tried to start it Friday. To its credit it started up almost right away - its always been great in the cold. I let it run for 30 minutes to heat everything up.
I insured it Saturday and went to start it and won't go. Turned over & over & over, and the engine will chug every now and then but won't catch. Its a few degrees colder than it was Friday, but not by much.
It did have just under a quarter tank of gas, so I'm wondering if it could be condensation in the fuel system somewhere that was sucked in while idling on Friday? If so I don't really know what to do about that. Or could there are other things to check/try.
I'm replacing the plug on the block heater, but don't think thats the short. I was going to drive it to the garage to have them replace the cord (as I doubt its the block heater itself) but have to get it started to do that
When I start my 2001 passat 1.8T 155,000+, my car shakes like it feels like it needs to catch a second before starting fully, and when it does fully start it gives a good kick but then stops, just curious of what it could be and what it could run me, but its not the battery I know that?
View 3 RepliesDriving home in my 04, and it just died, no caution lights, still have battery power, and starter is engaging but engine wont catch, like no fuel or spark. Found no burnt out fuses, and checked the fuel pump relay. Pulled out the back seat, turned key and heard the fuel pump, so that is working, replaced the crackshaft position sensor, still no engine start.
Over 130k miles, 1.6l
The back turn signals on my 93 ford taurus wont work but the front ones do. i checked the fuses and the bulbs and everything was good. the brake lights work and the head lights but no turn signals. same with the hazard lights. front ones work but no back ones. what should i try?
View 1 RepliesSo, as the title says, my Miata won't start when it's hot. The engine keeps turning over but doesn't catch, and I have to let it cool down for about 20 minutes before it will turn on again. When it does turn back on, it blows a ton of white smoke out the back and I can smell gas for about 5 min afterwards. I have replaced the spark plugs and the wiring for them, and the problem is still there.
Also, I can bump start the car with little to no difficulty. It runs ragged for a few minutes then it runs great. So, what's up.
I drive a 2004 Toyota Matrix SRX, It has a 6 speed manual gearbox. Sometimes when I am driving and i push the clutch whether to decelerate or when I'm sitting at a stop light the car dies. It seems like when the engine is slowing down it sometimes doesn't catch itself to idle and just dies.
View 8 RepliesThe car has 175,000 miles on it and is having issues starting but only sometimes. The starter turns over but the engine doesn't catch. Usually if I open the hood, pretend to know what I'm doing, and wait a bit, it will start within 10 minutes or less (sometimes it takes a few tries.) I hear a click when the starter is going and the engine isn't catching, very much like the click I hear if I'm driving with the AC on and the AC needs to draw power. I've recently had a tune-up including new fuel filter, spark plugs and wires. The mechanic can't figure out what's wrong (doesn't seem to be the battery or the battery terminals). The car even started up FINE at 40 below. I can't really see a pattern to it.
View 3 RepliesCar occasionally fails to start or will start and immediately die. Engine turns over, spark plugs are getting spark, but engine either won't catch or will start and immediately die.
View 2 RepliesHaving a problem with the fuel pump engaging. Warm or cold same problem. When I turn the ignition on I can hear the fuel pump engage and the car runs fine on start. Other times I turn the ignition on and don't hear the pump engage, thus no start. But repeatedly turning the ignition on an off I get the fuel pump to engage and I have start, will run until I shut it down. been doing this for a couple of weeks now. Is this an ignition thing or fuel pump? No wiring diagram. Replaced all relays, battery good. Never did anything with the fuel system.
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