Ford Transmission :: 1992 - Dies While Coming To Stop - Disconnect TCC Circuit?
Jan 9, 2009
I have a quick torque converter question. I have a '92 F-250, 351W, E4OD. When I come to a stop the engine dies. I know it is the torque converter clutch staying engaged. I do have a TCC code stored. I'm wondering if there is a way to disconnect the TCC so it never goes into lock-up, since it only seems to happen after I've reached higher speeds and it goes into lock-up. I thought maybe a wire from the PCM to disconnect? I have All-data access, but it doesn't have wiring diagrams for the trans. Which wire, color and pin number, and if this will work? I know it's not the proper repair, but I have $17 into this truck, it's pretty rotted, and I'm just looking to get by until spring. I don't drive much, but occasionally I need to get somewhere.
View 14 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 2004 F150 5.4 Triton. When coming to a stop the truck starts a rough idle then dies like it ran out of fuel. The tank is full. It is an intermittent problem but is getting slightly worse. It mostly happens after reaching operating temperature. Also there is the dreaded ticking sound once the problem start. Brought it to the dealership and after they had it for four days they said it stalled once and recommended replacing the motor! They could not answer the question as to why to replace the motor. No codes or warning lights are coming on when it dies.
View 2 Replies
Well i have a 1992 for explorer 4.0 all lights seem to dim kinda surging at idle or coming to a stop. Has new battery, battery cables nice and tight new alternator. My Volt gauge on my cluster jumps from 12 to 14 volts. battery light flashes seems to be getting worse. Was having similar issue about 1 year ago found a injector giving up. Replaced injector and worked good for a while. Wondering is it common to have that issue with injectors causing these issues. Doesn't seem likes its missing firing.
View 1 Replies
Wife's daily driver often stalls when coming to a stop. I changed MAP, TPS, Fuel filter; Reputable mechanic changed IAC, Plugs, Wires, Cleaned Throttle Body. We reset computer and relearned idle several times, ok for a while then starts stalling routinely again. What to do next? Owner, driver, wife is getting frustrated with the big money spent to no avail to date and I am worried it will stall at a dangerous time, when she is driving. She loves the car - has had it for 20 years and wants to keep it. I need it to be safe and reliable for her.
1992 Pontiac Firebird 3.1L, Auto, Air
View 3 Replies
My 1992 Buick Century frequently shuts down when coming to a stop or slowing down to make a sharp corner. I'm always able to restart it. I thought it was a torque converter lockup problem, but my transmission specialist said the transmission is okay. Last month, after the car died completely, I had the crankshaft sensor and harmonic balancer replaced by Firestone. Could it be the same parts that malfunctioned? Or, could it be another issue?
View 12 Replies
I have a 2001 Ford Excursion Limited 7.3l with 199,980 miles on it.
It has a TS-6. My first problem is that when I come to a stop or slow down to a crawl then press the accelerator the engine stalls and dies. I have looked and looked at threads and can not find this example anywhere. There is no pressing the pedal and it remains at idle. It dies, shuts off, quiets. I have thought icp, tps, ivs
Second problem is that a/c is blowing hot. Other than being out of Freon, what could be other things to check. It does sometime go to default, but has done so in awhile. It does not blow cold in rear and hot in front. They both blow hot. I have replaced the pvh sensor.
View 1 Replies
Back to my 2007 FWD 2.7L Santa Fe. It has no Visors because a prior owner had them break and fall while driving, hitting them in the face. They dangled by the vanity light wires. They tore them out to get the visor out of their face before an accident happened. I priced new visors at $230 a pair plus shipping online. Ouch, a lot for another set of junk visors!
Recently the car stumbles and the ESC and engine light comes on. Had the codes checked then I and surfed the web and found it to likely be the TPS but the only one to fix it would be of course be the dealer. Diagnosis is $125. plus $70 part plus installation and then $105 to reprogram the TPS. I found the part online for $35. I will install it and then take it to the dealer to program it. So $140 instead of $500! I have yet to do that because I took the TB off and cleaned it. It stumbled a few more times and then ran fine for weeks. Its doing it again though once in a while, some days nothing happens others it happens 4 or 5 times. So I will have to get it done sooner than later. I have however found that it wont stumble and die if I put the car in neutral before I come to a stop. It just happens when its in gear, otherwise it runs fine. So until I take it in to replace the TPS I will use that technique.
I will follow up once I have installed the new TPS and had it programmed so you all will know if that took care of it. I have read some installed the TPS and in short time the computer adjusted to where it worked fine but fuel mileage was poor. Being I know how to drive it to keep it from dying at a stop now, I will wait until I get time and $100 to take it to the dealer for programming.
View 15 Replies
My Subaru Outback is dying on me when I come to a stop and has happened when just idling. I have been told it is the torque converter and replacement is 2 thousand.
View 7 Replies
I have 2010 F150 King Ranch 5.4L. This truck has been giving us problems by just dying. We have haf it towed twice in two days. It does it more often when hooked up to our travel trailer. The day before yesterday we drove it 250 miles w/o the camper with no problems. Once it dies it can take an hoir or so before it starts. I just did a test and had the truck.running for a bit and then plugged the trailer wiring harness (7 pin with brake control) and truck died within a minute. A couple of times it showed that there codes. The codes were P0201 thri P208. Which is open circuit to that specific injector. When the key is turned off the codes go away.
View 1 Replies
I recently installed and oil gauge now I want to disconnect the stop oil pressure warning on my dash.
View 1 Replies
I have a 2000 ford f350 7.3l with a auto transmission(4r100) and I have had problems with it . It started a while back when the transmission is cold like in the morning when I put it in drive it acts like when you don't push the cluch in on a standard when coming to a stop kind like it's bucking and this only happens when it's cold when it's nice and warmed it's fine so I changed the whole transmission and put a billet torque converter and I'm still having the same problem can it be a sensor or something electrical ?
View 7 Replies
2001 Excursion V10 with E4OD. Transmission is around 4 years. Old with 40-50K on it. Here's my timeline of problems.
Day 1. Went to dive and it slipped and caught taking off. Never felt that before. I drove it about 7 miles, no problem, when coming to a stop it stuttered a little. Checked fluid it was OK. Added some SeaFoam. Seemed worse and thought I was outta luck.
Day 2. I dropped the pan and found the normal metal around magnet plus a few metal shavings(not brass). Not many. I took it to a tranny guy and he said something inside has failed but he wasn't sure what. I changed filter, used same fluid as it looked ok, put it back together and added Lucas treatment. It moves ok, still slipping around 15% of the time on takeoff. After moving it runs/shifts great.
View 8 Replies
1992 Escort GT 1.8 liter ... It's been a problem for a while, where I'll just be driving (or at a stoplight) and the engine dies. It doesn't sputter or give any signs (that I know of) before it goes. Usually if I let it sit for a while, generally under an hour, it'll start right up again and run for a few days and then happen again. The engine light will sometimes come on, but only after I get it started up again, and it never stays on for long. The other day, it died on my way to work and didn't start up again for a few days, but the engine light was on, and gave a code 23. I think this means I should get the throttle sensor fixed.
View 1 Replies
I have just inherited my recently deceased father's 1992 Ranger with the 2.3 liter engine. He was a Ford Mechanic but got to ill to worry about fixing the Ranger. So, let me begin, the engine dies randomly, (at idle or in gear driving doesn't matter what gear or speed), turning key to off and then to on will allow vehicle to restart every time. No "Check Engine" light has ever lit, I do have an "Antilock" light that comes and goes. The engine codes I keep getting are: 10, 218 and 222.
Code 10 is a computer check code,
Code 218 is "Loss of Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) signal/left side, and
Code 222 is "Distributorless Ignition System - Loss of right side ignition diagnostic monitor (IDM) signal.
These codes were from my Innova reader. I have read where other similar problems were fixed with a new Crankshaft Position Sensor, replaced mine, no change. Another symptom I just noticed is my temp gauge stays near the cool end when it should be higher.
View 14 Replies
I have a 2000 ford f350 7.3l with a auto transmission(4r100) and I have had problems with it . It started a while back when the transmission is cold like in the morning when I put it in drive it acts like when you don't push the cluch in on a standard when coming to a stop kind like it's bucking and this only happens when it's cold when it's nice and warmed it's fine so I changed the whole transmission and put a billet torque converter and I'm still having the same problem can it be a sensor or something electrical ?
View 14 Replies
I've got an issue with my 92 2.3 ranger.... sitting at idle for 30 or so seconds it starts to chug and sometimes dies.... I can hit the throttle and its fine for another 30 or so seconds.... while cruising on the freeway after about 30 minutes it starts to cut out badly... let out of throttle for a few seconds and it clears up and drives fine...
Here's the part that has me confused... pulled codes yesterday using a innova scan tool...
koeo were 4, 10, and 538...
koer were 111, 10, 157, 158, 181, 327, 328, and 334....
How does it give me a 111 pass code and then still come up with all the other codes? I am thinking my ecu may be screwed.....
View 4 Replies
I picked up a mkIV about 2 weeks ago, I've noticed that when the car is warming up that it feels like the transmission makes a *thunk* when coming to a stop. It seems to go away for the most part once warmed up, but every once in a while it will happen randomly after the car is warmed up though. I'm assuming this is the transmission disengaging as the wheels stop turning. Is this something I should be worried about, or is this "normal"...
View 4 Replies
When coming to a complete stop, whether from 5 mph or 50 mph. After I've been stopped for about 2 - 3 seconds, the transmission feels like it gives a little jerk. It feels something like a car coming out of gear without the clutch pushed in (not quite that severe but that's the general feeling).
View 9 Replies
This last month I have been noticing that either when I am coming to a stop the transmission down shift hard.... and when moving from a stop it gives two bucks like a standard does when u let the clutch out to fast... so i went into do my oil change and asked them to look at it.... guess what its getting a new tranny..... makes me want to trade it in when i get it fixed....
View 14 Replies
Car basics: 1992 Chevrolet S104 cylinder2.5 L
Have in the last 4 months replaced :
(1)fuel filter
(2)fuel pump and spark plugs
(3)EGR Valve
(4) Vacuum lines (possible vacuum leak)
Problem: Car will turn off while driving, sometimes after a service engine light comes on. Usually at 40-65 mph, car will shut off with electricity still working. When I attempt to start the car afterward it will turn over, but will not catch. Have had to be towed twice, other times, we waiting we it out, came back later and it started up just fine.
Attempts to solve: Various points I've brought it into a AAA shop, and they were unable to figure it out without the check engine light on (pre-1996). I finally did get the codes read, and they were for the EGR Valve, and the MAP sensor. EGR replaced, test on MAP sensor showed no problems afterwards. codes were cleared.
Yesterday: Last night the car turned off randomly on me again, and had to get towed home, today it took a few tries, but then the car started up just fine. Took it to the shop, they reattached a loose wire from the spark plugs, and are asking me to replace the (1)wiring, (2) coils, and (3) rotor head but without the check engine light on this morning, they are not 100% sure where the problem exists. The car sometimes runs fine, but since I am going to be working pretty far from home, I need reliable transportation. Everything else is in great shape on my little pickup, but this has been racking my head for a bit.
View 3 Replies
I recently purchased a 2005 Camry XLE V6 (100K miles). Its in great condition and no issues except I am observing this:
-> When I come to stop (like at a stop sign), just before coming to complete stop, there is a slight forward jerk. When I come to stop slowly and smoothly, there is no problem.
the faster I come to stop the more severe is the jerk. I tried to search for answers on the web, one possibility is bad solenoid in the transmission.
View 9 Replies
