OK, call me stupid but, what is the two-wire electrical connection on the differential of my '87 F250 lariat? I'm tracing all the wires from the rear to the front of the truck and replacing everything to make like new. I've never seen anything like this before.
View 2 RepliesI just started using Spotify, and would like to stream music from its app on my mobile phone (iPhone 6) in my 2011 Prius.
I plugged the phone into the USB jack in the center well, and found this seems to work fine. However, it would be a little easier if I could do the streaming via bluetooth with no wire connection.
When I start the car, in a few seconds I see a message that the car is connected to the iPhone as a hands-free phone. If I press the "Audio" button at the lower left of the dash screen, the "BT" tab is grayed out and I can't select it.
Is it dangerous to the car to drive if the wire connection is broken to the camshaft timing oil control valve? It seems to run fine.
View 2 Replies2 days ago my mother borrowed my 2007 camry. When she brought it back a few hours later it sounded really loud (almost like a car without a muffler). Without getting a lot of details I find out she was driving it all afternoon in 3rd (it is an automatic). It was a mix of highway and regular roads
Today I drove it to work (mostly freeway) and as I exited a bunch of panel lights lit up and the internal panel lights were flashing (like the battery was dying). I noticed the clock on the radio was not on. I turned the car off and it would not come back on... it would not even turn over. I had someone jump it a few times and it would start, but electrical would flash and it would just die. I had it towed to my autoshop, but was curious if driving it in 3rd cause it? I am pretty sure it is not the battery and that was replaced within the last few years.
Just bought a used, 03 F-150 SuperCrew Lariat. Having some minor electrical issues. While cleaning truck, I discovered a red wire coming into engine area on passenger side of vehicle. Wire has a built in 40amp fuse but isn't connected to anything. What this is for/ should be connected to???
View 1 RepliesOnly numbers 1,2,5 match the diagram below. my 6,7,8 are BK/W, PK/B, BR/PK. My Sony CD player came with bare wires. So I could cut off the truck oem plug. How hard is it to find a plug that goes from my OEM plug to my Sony CD player?
View 10 RepliesMy 85 f150 5L is parked to far in into my alley.. the last time i saw my keys i moved it up to water the plants that it was tucked almost on top of.
ive been looking for the keys for 2 months.. the truck isnt being driven at all but i think my neighbors are getting mad at it being out so far.
I can get in the engine bay, and i have jumped the starter on our big trucks at work before.. but what wires do i have to join to put the ignition into the run position?
My 77 F150 Ranger with a 400 in it didn't wanna start up at all. It wouldn't even crank or click like if the battery was dead. Then I tried again this morning and it cranked once then melted a red wired with I think a black or gray tracer, on the ignition. (I put a new solenoid on a couple months back and the positive also melted a bit by the solenoid but didn't pay any attention to it.) I'm just wondering what could be wrong with it to make it do that and how to fix it. Also when I went to put gas in it (it's on a slight hill making it lean to the driver side) it was empty but no fuel would go down the filler neck, then it started to gurgle and spit it out some. I was told it was vapor lock but I thought vapor lock happens when it's hot.
View 3 RepliesI've searched all over and can't seem to find the answer. When I pull the tail light out of my 12 F150 there is a blue/wht wire and a black wire going to the back up light. I assume the blue wire is the positive and black is the ground. Is that correct?
View 8 RepliesThe red wire coming from my fire wall is not connected to anything and I need to find what it is supposed to connect too it come out of my firewall near my steering column ... This is and 95 f150 with a 302 engine ...
View 1 RepliesI'm planning the install of a 1996 351w into my '77 F-100. I'm using the '96 accessory serpentine drive (FS-10 A/C compressor, '96 alternator, etc.). It needs to mate up to the '77 wiring. I'm going to use stock '96 underhood A/C components (accumulator, hoses, condenser).
As best as I can tell, the '96 system uses the ECU to manage the A/C system, but I've converted the '96 motor to a carb.
Looking at both the '77 and '96 systems I think the easiest underhood wiring solution would be to use the '77 compressor ON wire as a relay trigger, and use the '96 High Pressure Cut Off (HCPO) on the compressor manifold, and compressor cycling switch attached to the accumulator to interrupt the relay output to the compressor.
I can get the switches and pigtails, and I can look up their pressure trigger points, but I don't know the voltage the '96 switches operate at (12v or some reduced voltage?) or how to simulate their trigger conditions to see how they work. I guess that at ambient pressure the HPCO should be normally on and the cycling switch should be normally off. So I could just wire them into the relay ground or trigger connection. But of course they aren't simple two wire switches. (Edit: Looking at it online, the cycling switch appears to be two wire, the HCPO is 4 wire).
How to wire them, should I use them to interrupt the relay ground or trigger connection?
On a 2008 E250, Where is the dome light wire and what color is it? To use with an omega security system.
View 4 RepliesI have a trans temp gauge on my 1996 F350, I have it all hooked up and functioning except for the light. I have searched without success looking for where to splice in to get the light on and have it dimmable. I have a wire routed from the gauge to the center of the dash behind the stereo. What wire I can splice into?
View 2 RepliesI have a wire that i think belongs to my Cruise control and I can't find out were it connects. It is dark blue/green stripe. It is in a wiring bundle with the oil sending wires ( two wires blk/w and y/o ).
I also get a code ....no sig from clutch neutral switch.
I just got done putting new heads on my little 2.9 and can't wait to use this as my daily drive. These two wiring issues are keeping my truck from running well enough to drive.
I would like to hook up some auxiliary reverse lights, I want to use a relay. And activate the relay when I put my truck in reverse. I would like the relay to be in my custom relay/fuse box under my hood near my battery. I'm looking for a wire I can tap into, to use to active the relay as close to the battery as possible. Or at least a wire on the outside of the cab near the engine compartment. Maybe there's one coming from the tranny? I have a 2011 f250 super duty. XL, I think, its a very base model truck no power windows or locks, only fm/am radio, no NAV system, no remote unlock, no nothing, 2 wheel drive.
View 9 RepliesI have a 1976 Ford F100 with a 302 and my problem is sometimes when my engine is running and I try to cut it off, it continues to run and the only way to stop it is to jerk the coil wire off. This is an intermittent problem. Happens about every 6 or 7 times I drive it. I have replaced the ignition switch and still have the same problem. Pretty sure it is some type wiring or ground issue, just need someplace to start.
View 1 RepliesThe differential is howling like crazy on my 1993 E150 5.0 van, it has over 200k miles on it so I'm assuming the bearings need to be replaced! Before I tackle this major project is there any special tools I need or a special procedure I should use?
View 2 RepliesI have a 1989 ford f150 xlt lariat it has a 5.0 and a 5 speed and is 4 wheel drive. Any way I am looking into rebuilding the rear end of the truck the pinion shaft has a lot of play in it up and down and both outer axle bearings seem to have lots of play in them. I believe it is a 8.8 inch in the rear. Just wondering if there hard to rebuild or what it all entails I have never taken one apart before and want to know what I am getting into. I have access to a press and a pinion and carrier bearing puller. the axle bearings i have done tons of them but never had to pull out the carrier. wondering how to set turning torque and backlash etc... and torque specs for everything.
View 8 RepliesI recently changed the rear diff fluid on my 1999 F250 Super Duty (180k) It was due plus I was getting some chattering when making turns from a stop. The Diff fluid had about 60k miles on it and seemed to be a little low even though I don't see any leaks. I paid to have it done last time so I can't say what kind of a job they did.
I used Motorcraft diff fluid and 8oz of friction modifier. Two weeks later and about 500 miles, today I noticed on two occasions when turning a moaning sound coming from the rear of the truck. Could this be a sign of too much friction modifier and the cluthes are slipping or is something else going on?
I purchased my first truck 2 weeks ago private sale a 2001 Explorer Sport Trac 4v4 4.0L. I noticed it had small leaks coming from transmission and front differential gaskets (the diff is silicone) but the oil levels remain fine. Within days I heard a loud hum coming from the engine for 10 seconds then immediately after i was slowing down for a speed bump and my truck tried to stall and since that point it was riding very rough at low speed/idle and sometimes giving it gas seemed to just kill it. Next day a check engine light comes on and I get it checked It was Bank 1 running lean and B1155 (Output shaft speed signal) which concerned me from what I found it is located by the transmission oil filter which has the leak.
A few more days later I broke down on the side of the road, the alternator had died and killed the battery, I replaced the alternator and belt, replaced the 6 spark plugs, 3 of which i removed way to easily with my hands and all 6 had an incorrect gap. Initially the car was still rough but now with the new plugs it is drivable but still a little weird on startup and idle and a little bit of the shakes around 60-65mph and seems to be over actively shifting soon as i let off the gas even a little bit. Today I had the check engine light assessed again, now Bank 1 and Bank 2 are lean, still have the B1155 as well as a new C1676 (Battery pack voltage out of range) which light research said it could be ABS module or it could be a false code from being jumped days prior and that code wont clear on its own.
Had a small leak on show up in my transmission cooler line at the radiator connection. After replacing the o-ring, which was pinched, I had lost some fluid up to about 3-4 oz. I had stopped by the local VW dealer and picked up a liter of ATF fluid and noticed the colors of the fluid differed from what drained out from the cooler line. Fluid that drained out was a cloudy darker green/grey and the new ATF fluid had a clear yellowish tint. Is this vehicle equipped with a closed loop cooling system or does it use the actual ATF fluid as the cooling medium?
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