Ford Transmission :: 2005 Expedition - When Select Drive Will Not Shift Into High Without Slipping And Rapid RPM Increase
Jan 10, 2015
Just made it back from out of state hunting trip,driving to get new tires. And heard a bump sound , Driving about 40 mph and tack jumped from around 1800 rpm to 4500. Engine' smooth and parameters good . However will drive in low and 2 nd gear approximate 25 mph. When select drive will not shift into high without slipping an rapid rpm increase. Currently 135k service record's and general appearance were well maintained....
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Reverse works great....engine revs and barely pulls in drive. Not sure yet if it actually changes gears. I am planning on replacing tranny. I have a few questions :
1: Could it be something more simple like a selonoid or ???
2: What all trannys will fit? this is the 2wd 5.4 liter xlt ...
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Transmission won't go into drive until I give it gas and then hard shift between 1&2 then a little slipping when I get on it in higher speeds , fluid and filter brand new, threw a speed sensor so code I replaced with new but no change, don't know what to do and can't find out why speed sensor code went off changed but didn't fix? Can't drive truck!!!
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So against my better judgement I rebuilt my C6 myself. It's all back together and in my 79 F150 2wd 400cu. It seems to not want to shift into 2nd on it's own. I can manually shift it into all the gears but 2nd feels like it slips. So here is a list of parts with questions:
I used Mercon V instead of Type F. The transmission is a 1987 and the bottle says it covers vehicles requiring Dextron/Mercon.
I installed a FF servo lever with a P servo. My kit didn't come with a new spring. What effect would a worn spring have?
When adjusting the band, I set it to 120in/lbs and backed it off 1.5 turns. This seemed very loose to me. It leaves the set screw finger tight/loose, so I tried turning it in 1/2 turn but that made no difference and I won't drive it until I readjust it. Also it's a RedEagle wide band, but that shouldn't make a difference.
One place I think I could have a problem is with the modulator. I didn't have a scale to do the 12.5 lbs method, but I had a big syringe, vacuum guage, tubing and t fitting. I could hold the -15" of mercury but the rod didn't go in to the notch like it said it should. I was going to stick the old one in but it's bent and the rod is missing. Will a bad or misadjusted modulator cause the tranny to slip in 2nd? I don't think it's inbetween gears because it does accelerate in 2nd.
I used the BadShoeProductions video along with a Ford Shop manual to assist me.
Complete list of replaced items:
New Modulator
F servo lever with P piston
All Friction and steels
Pressure plates for additional friction plates per video.
All Seals and gaskets
New wide band
New pump
Hughes torque converter
TransGo shift kit
New Sun Shell (Took my end play from .070 to .012)
Everything was cleaned and tested ok per video.
Then only problem with the video is it doesn't tell you what to do when you have a problem, only shows you how to tear down and reassemble.
I used a torque wrench for everything, but if it turns out it's a valve body problem then I will go back through it but only using a nut driver.
The kick down rod is working properly.
My gear selector is set properly.
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My tranny is acting odd. I put in drive and seems to slip a lot in 1st, barely even move at some times. If I put it in 1st with the shifter it goes in and grabs then I can shift up to 2nd or drive and there aren't problems. It drives normally when not from dead stop.
Transmission has 50k miles on it since replacement. Fluid level is normal. I don't tow and drive it particularly hard. I will have to go back and look at miles since last fluid change. I should be right around 30k miles since last change.
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I have a problem with my transmission slipping. It seems to happen most often when I have shifted from park into drive and am going uphill. I don't really notice a problem with it when I am on flats or even at red lights. It can drift backwards for 10-15 feet before "catching."
I don't feel any problem when I am going faster or in higher gears. 1999 Ford Explorer SOHC 6 Cyl 4.0...
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I was towing my 20' boat and had a 4000 lb camper on back going up a grade in 85-90 degree heat when the tranny started dumping fluid. Got to the top and let it rest for 2-3 hours and refilled and was fine for the rest of the trip. This happened last summer. Truck is only driven about 1000 miles a year. I believe this is the E40D.
This year it will run smooth until after about 20 miles and then begins slipping in Drive and OD. Seems to work fine in 1 and 2. It shifts very hard and runs higher rpms before doing so. Slipping then seems to be sporadic and may not slip for quite awhile but it still shifts very hard.
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2005 Escape CD4E gone...157,000 miles. Previous owner said it was slipping when shifting to 3rd. During test drive the vehicle would hardly move. Only code was for the output shaft. There were metal shavings on the sensor magnet as well as the magnetic drain plug. The drivetrain is now out of the vehicle.
Questions:
1. After a bit of research it seems like there are a lot of tweaks that should be done during a rebuild to make this tranny live longer. Is there any point to having a local trans shop try to rebuild it?
2. Given the reputation of this trans I assume it makes no sense to look at used ones, correct?
3. Any other options?
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My 2005 2X4 4.6L 120,000K tranny is going out. I think I have the 4R70E and it's slipping in first gear. If i'm easy on the throttle, once it hits second, it's perfect. Tried flushing, changed plugs didn't work. I did not change the COPs. Is this the torque converter, pump or clutches? Can it be repaired?
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2005 F-150 5.4L RWD
I purchased this truck about 2 years ago, with about 70k miles. Previous owner had transmission work done, but I'm not sure if it was a rebuild, new, or refurbished. About 8 months ago I experienced hesitation, and frequent stalling when coming to a stop. Pulled the engine codes, and they said it was throttle body related. I thoroughly cleaned the throttle body assembly inside, with the battery disconnected, went through the idle re-learn process, and it drove fine for a few days. Took it into the shop, and they did a tune up and replaced several plugs and coils. Since then, it's run great.
A couple of weeks ago, a whining/buzzing noise was coming from the engine compartment, getting much louder as RPMs increased. Got the oil changed a week ago (it was overdue), and the tech at the quick lube shop said the noise was from the drive pulley(s), and that they should be replaced.
Today, I was waiting for the parking lot at work to open, sitting in park. I quickly switched to Drive, and the trans didn't seem to engage (Auto Trans). The engine revved, I let off the gas, and it then engaged and I scooted into a parking spot. After work, on the way home, there were similar issues at the beginning of the drive, mainly when slowing down/stopping/down-shifting. Most of the drive was on hwy, and I managed to get by okay going around 60 mph, with some spikes in RPM's occasionally when I would accelerate (no Tach, so I'm going by sound). Half way home on the high way, the O/D Off light starting quickly blinking, and the odometer screen read "TRANS FAULT". I managed to make it off of the highway, and stopped at the first red light, where the engine stalled. Turned it back on, put it in gear, and it drove fine for about 5-10 minutes on back roads, with no lights/notices. The last 2 miles home I experienced a lot of slipping, and high revs. When I backed into my parking spot, there was noticeable leaking... Trans fluid was leaking fairly quickly. I hadn't noticed any trans fluid leaking before today... I went out to run the engine and take a short trip to warm up the fluid to get a reading, but it wouldn't engage in Forward or Reverse at all. Pulled the dipstick out, while "cold", and there was nothing... I'm assuming that it's drained drastically, and is extremely low or gone.
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2007 Chevy Impala3.5L 6-cyl Flex Fuel engine w/ 4 speed auto trans52,800 miles
Extreme driving conditions maintenance schedule kept.Transmission standard service done @ 32,800 miles which was 20k ago.
PROBLEM:
1) Twice in past three days, when shifting from reverse to drive the transmission has slipped, revving hard with rpms spiked above 3,000 for about 2 seconds before engaging the forward drive gear.
Normally I come to a complete stop of all reverse motion with foot fully on the brake pedal before shifting. Admittedly, I got sloppy the first time noted and still had very slight reverse motion when I shifted.
2) Several times late today, while driving uphill at approx 35 - 45 mph, when the car downshifted there was an extremely brief moment of transmission slippage with spiked rpms. It was so brief each time that at first I thought I'd imagined it until it happened again. Then it did it once on a level surface in a parking lot when having shifted from reverse to drive without problem and was gently accelerating the transmission again slipped for just the briefest moment when the normal automatic shift point was reached. So far, all incidences while driving have been so extremely brief that it was the merest hint of a hiccup.
3) When bringing the car to a complete stop, such as at a stoplight or when parking, as the transmission automatically shifts for the braking of speed, sometimes there is a minor but noticeable thunk sound seeming to come from underneath the car, I'd judge to be somewhere about under the level of the dashboard or slightly forward of that. Could that be from a worn or broken transmission mount? And, if so, could that be somehow causing the slippage problem?
4) This transmission has always, even since new, allowed more roll after being shifted into park, the engine shut off and my foot taken off the brake than any other car I have ever driven. If I forget to engage the parking brake quite tightly, the car will roll forward quite a few inches before the parking pawl holds it, even on the level. I've been told both by the dealership shop and the independent mechanic shop that there is no problem and that this particular engine/transmission combination tends to do this although my particular car seems to do so somewhat worse than average.
ACTIONS TAKEN SO FAR:
1) Have made an appointment to take the car into the mechanic.
2) Will check the transmission fluid level per instructions in the owner's manual tomorrow when I have daylight to see what the fluid level and color on the stick looks like.
NOTE:
1) I periodically check the transmission fluid level and it has never been low or discolored. The shop checked it for me, along with making sure everything else was road trip worthy, for an emergency 1,000 round trip in late November, just three months ago. No problems then.
2) No evidence on the garage floor of any leakage. Garage floor is dry.
QUESTIONS:
1) I presume the first step is for the mechanic to check the fluid level and examine for any leaks?
2) If the mechanic cannot duplicate the problem in a test drive, then what?
3) If the problem cannot be duplicated and no apparent cause found, I presume that the prudent course of action is to go ahead and have standard transmission maintenance done (i.e. drop the pan, check for debris, drain and replace with fresh fluid) then see if that halts the slippages?
4) Given that this car has already had failures of the power steering pump, water pump, and part of the wiring harness, and has a fuel pump starting to get noisy, despite aggressively maintaining all standard/preventive maintenance, that perhaps it is time to think of replacing this car, especially if there proves to be any truly major transmission problem found?
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I have a 1991 Aerostar 2wd 3.0. I recently had freeze plugs replaced and the mechanic had to drop the tranny to get to some. Now the shift cable has come off the gear selector lever. I have googled everywhere and can't locate the procedure for reattaching it. My mechanic was doing the work on the side and charged me only labor for his assistant. He is at work right now..
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Initially thought I had a clicking valve but the clicking occurs only when I shift to drive and take off. Now I think it may be related to the transmission. Clicking goes away after truck warms up. Checked the spark plugs and all were light brown no black oil.
Generally speaking, is there anything in the trans that would be able to click when the truck is moving? This sound has been around now for about 6 months so I'm stumped. Also checked the ujoints etc....can't find anything wrong.
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My 2008 Tundra's tranmission went out last week when attempting to shift from 4 WD high, into 4wd lo, then back into high.
I was stuck in the snow in 4wd high, then tried low, to no avail, tried the transmission in lo (which didn't engage--just 'lo' light blinking and alarm buzzer, then tried 4wd HI and there was NO transmission response, a grinding in "P' and no low, high, or anything--from Park to D, Reverse, all the gears were gone, and I was getting ready to call for a tow truck, and after grinding the P gear for a while and back into N, it went into 4wd high.
Toyota replicated the problem, after some doing, and they're trying to fix it as the 4wd acuator is a problem--it's backordered to Japan which means the truck is out of action for a month.
There are similar reports of damage and problems listed on the NHTSA website.
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I have a 2004 Honda Element and when the AC compressor cycles on it makes a high pitched noise similar to a drive belt slipping. The AC is still cold and the noise is not overwhelming (yet). I know this vehicle has a serpentine belt and that doesn't appear to be making any noise. The only noise is when the compressor is running.
Is there a belt that drives the compressor (other than the serpentine)? And, is this something that I should get fixed ASAP or can it wait until my next oil change? Meaning, if I wait until the oil change (under 1,800 miles) will hurt anything?
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I bought my F-250 Super Duty 6.0 last October, and I am extremely happy with it comparing to my former '03 Dodge 2500 TD. The Ford drives so much better!
There is only one problem I have with it. Without pulling it shifts nice and has lots of power. A Month ago I bought a fifth wheel trailer and I hardly notice it behind the truck, also it doesn't use more diesel pulling. However going uphill the transmission seems to slip, and I can hear (sounds like) a fan running loud? I loose speed.
All the temperature gauges stay normal, no difference. It starts to pull worse. I replaced de tranny filters, inside and the outside one. Also I did put the correct transmission fluid in there, no difference. Almost no grindings in the oilpan/magnet.
I looked on many sites, but cannot find anything on this. Personally I think it's the torque converter? My final step would be to have the transmission rebuild, with the best parts available, (close to WA, ID, MO)...
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I have a 2002 Ranger with a 2.3 lt engine and a 5R44E Transmission. Has 120,oookms (75,000 miles) I have an issue.
Here is what was happening: Would not shift into Drive...took a long time to do so.... and had a 2 to 3 gear flare.
Here is what I did: Replaced the valve body gaskets. Improved a lot. The 2 to 3 shift flare has gone. The delayed shift into D is mostly gone BUT still takes 15 to 20 seconds to shift into D. Once in gear no problems shifting. Does not slip and NO OD light flashing.
What do I need to do to fix the delayed shift issue.
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Thought my transmission was slipping. So I changed the tanny. been driving it for a few days and now it doing the same thing. Is it possible that it a different problem with the same symptoms?
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I have a 93 f250 4x4 with a 5.8 liter with 69 thousand miles.. the problem I'm having Is if I put It in drive it won't shift out of first but if I manually shift it from 1st to 2nd to drive it works but shifts very hard. Sometimes it will shift in drive but It shifts really hard. I don't know what It could be. We just put the transmisson back into the truck due to having to change a broken flywheel. It just don't Seem like it has any power...
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In the process of wrapping my center console in carbon fiber, have become stuck at this step here. How does the big button come off that selects Eco/normal/sport s/s+. ? The button does not slide through the bottom, like the snow and traction buttons, it is too wide. So it has to come off at the top, but how?
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'02 Taurus SES, 3.0L Vulcan, AX4N, 140K miles.
The car drove normally the other day, but now the transmission won't shift into drive. Actually, I've been able to get it to shift to drive by easing back on the accelerator, but it will shift back to the next lower gear as soon as you attempt to get back on the gas.
I dropped the pan today to check for metal fragments and found nothing out of the ordinary, just the normal graphite-like sludge around the magnet, maybe about 1/16" or so thick. This leads me to believe that the transmission has not (as of yet) begun to consume itself.
The OBD II is throwing a code of 0750, which is SHIFT SOLENOID A MALFUNCTION. Don't want to deceive myself in thinking this is something simple, but could this fix be as straightforward as going in and replacing the shift solenoid?
I did a little investigating (not sure if I came up with the correct info, though) and found some info regarding testing the solenoid coil resistance. Disconnected the trans harness and took some continuity readings between the pins. Here's what I was able to obtain.
PIN 2 to PIN 1 3.6ohms
PIN 2 to PIN 6 15.6ohms
PIN 2 to PIN 8 16.6ohms
If my test method is correct, these readings are showing that the coil associated with PIN 1 is weak.
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