Ford Transmission :: 302 Bolted Up To C6 - Car Shakes On Cold Start
Mar 9, 2012
I have a 302 bolted up to a c6. My problem is this. When I cold start the entire car shakes bad. After it warms up not to much. When you put a load on it holding the break it shakes bad again. I hear kind of a roaring high pitched grinding noise. You give it some gas and it evens out. Around 45 and up there's a very noticeable rotating vibration noise. I've tried numerous things and not found an answer yet. Replaces the driveshaft with a new one. Still doing it. Motor and trans mounts, still doing it. It continues to get worse, the bad shaking, vibration. Really noticeable whenever your driving and come to a stop. Shakes real bad, sounds horrible.
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I picked up a 2013 ES300h last weekend, love the car so far but have a few questions. If its cold in the morning (~50F) the car shakes for a few miles then goes away, I'm thinking its the tranny. I have the same thing happen with my 2014 Highlander (different transmission though).
I'm used to the VW and BMW forums where there are a lot of DIYs to add options that didn't originally come with the car. Is it possible to add the rear automatic sunshade, swap in a radio from a 14/15/16 ES, add ML sound system?
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Its a 1991 Toyota celica with the 1.6 and 5 speed trans. the motor on cold or hot start up shakes really bad and has a lot of valve chatter. Along with that, the motor does not want to rev at all, almost like you are not even touching the gas, but you have it to the floor. A little back ground on the car is, the car sat for 6 months and i bought it from a friend to drive back and forth to work to keep miles of my supra. He said that the CAT was plugged so i replaced it. I have replaced the coil pack, distro cap, spark plug wires, spark plugs, rotor button, catalytic converter, air intake, and all the air tubes that looked like they were cracking. Now I can start the car, and it does the same thing. I thought it may be out of time, just because that is sort of what its acting like. I have had the motor rev up 3 times since i have had the car. But everytime I do it back fires and DIES, the car will not start til after the car cools down.
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I have 97 f150 x-cab 4.6 auto 4x4. I'm gettin ready to pull motor & trans to rebuild both. I was wondering if I can pull both while still bolted together without having to remove the cab??? And what else will needed to be removed.
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I have A '06 f 150 4x4 with codes p303 and 307. I have changed plugs, coils, and injectors on all cylinders. Still nothing. It runs rough for a while and clears out for a mile or so and back to running bad. When it stumbles the a/c quits blowing cold and the truck shakes like crazy. The check engine light is on and blinks when it stumbles. Tired of just having parts changed. What else could it be?
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When I turn my car off there's quite a bit of noise coming from under the car. Basically the sound of the exhaust cooling off but I would say a little excessive. In fact one night I was dropping my son off and left the car running and went to get some stuff out and while it was idling you could hear it. Clink.. clink clink. Same sound when its turned off.
I backed the car up on some ramps yesterday after I had driven it a short distance to see if I can pint point where its coming from and It seems to be in two places. Both where the exhausts are bolted together at a flange. One where the Catalytic converter bolts to the pipe that leads back to the mufflers. And there the 2nd source where just after the Y pipe where it splits off into 2 mufflers.
Is this something that may subside after the car has gotten some miles on it? I'm still well under the first 1k miles.
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I recently bought my Nissan Sentra from Carmax, and drove it cross-country from Maryland to New Mexico for a job. I noticed along the way that from a cold engine start, whenever I would reverse, shift to drive, and turn the wheel to straighten, I would hear a noise that sounds like pulling the parking brake coming from the tire area. The engine also makes a knocking noise when the accelerator is pressed, but gets better as the engine warms up (which I'm told is a gasket). Finally, when driving from a cold start and the transmission shifts from 1st to 2nd, I hear a metallic clunk that sounds like someone hitting a metal shaft.
Any thoughts/concerns? I've read something about a premature bearing failure, if that's relevant.
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My 2002 excursion 7.3 is acting weird when in drive. I have to get to around 2k rpm to get moving and hard shifts. But if I put it in 1st it has no problem but in 2nd i have hard vibration that shakes whole truck.
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My 2005 elantra 5-speed had typical clutch issues. Had a new one put in where i worked which repaired dump trucks and dumpster roll-off trucks. Got in the car and still had similar issues. I say similar because now when i start it cold, i have no 1st or 2nd..start moving in 3rd and drop into 2nd. After about 10 minutes of driving, you can chirp the tires in 1st. Could they have put gear oil that was too heavy and it needs to get warmed up? Does this sound possible? Should I change the gear oil?
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Friend lost reverse and truck shakes at 35 and above seems like it needs a new transmission. What years are a match for this transmission and any other models trans match?
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I'm having a problem with acceleration on cold start. It's an auto transmission model. Car always hesitate and jerks a bit before accelerating. Also acceleration is slow.
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I just got a 2000 passat wagon with a 1.8t and tiptronic transmission. The questions is when it is cold the transmission has a hard time to start driving. But as soon as it is warm it drives great. It is throwing a check engine code havent checked it yet.
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I've had 2 Elantra 2012 models 1 a gls the second a limited. As far as transmission issues both Elantra's from a cold start after allowing RPM's to idle down before taking off they both have started shifting hard going from 1st to second gear 1st car was around 8-9 k miles now 2nd started at 3 k miles. Since owning 2 cars same make same year same transmission and many times to dealer 1st car ended with Transmission replaced 2nd has now started doing the same thing they reset adaptive and next day did it again its now back at dealer waiting for them to diagnose again.
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I own 2005 Santa Fe. Vehicle is a 3.5l V6. 90,000 miles. Transmission flushed few months ago. Few weeks ago I notice that transmission jump hard and bucked on cold start then smooth out once the engine warm up. Is it normal? if not what could be a problem.
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My camry has been great up until the last week. The weather has gotten extremely cold here and when I start driving in the morning or from any cold starts the transmission doesn't shift out of second gear. After I drive it a mile or so and slow almost to a stop it will shift normally until I park it.
It has 125000 miles on it and I hope this isn't a serious problem because it is a great car and has been well taken care of. Looks brand new on the inside and out and I've never had any problems until now.
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I have a 1998 Honda Accord 4 cylinder with roughly 150k miles. When the weather is cold outside the steering wheel will shake until the car warms up. I have taken the car into the shop and they checked the engine mounts, tie rods, etc and they told me that the car is fine. The tires are not unbalanced nor are they packed with dirt or debris. The vibration only occurs when the car is cold and it goes away once the car warms up. Also, the vibration will stop when I simply place a small amount of pressure on the steering wheel with my hand or knee. The vibration does not occur when I am driving at low or high speeds and it usually only occurs when I am stopped at stop signs or lights.
I have done the regular maintenance on the vehicle and I have replaced the timing belt, spark plugs/ wires, belt(s), etc, if that make a difference.
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On older cars I've owned, this has never happened. But ever since day 1, my car has been jolting everytime I shift from P to R. (Yes I'm backing out). Is this normal? If not, what should I do?
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We took our car in for a regular oil change and to get the 60K belt work done. While in the car they discovered that the transmission was slipping and that we were missing one of the motor mounts. They did the belt work and the oil change and then put some fluid in our car hoping that would buy us some time with our transmission. To save us time and money they said we could wait a little while on the motor mount. When I drove it home the whole car shifted and shook whenever we would come to a stop and then it would shake while idling. I called our mechanic back and they said to bring it in and that fixing the rear motor mount should take care of the problem. While back at the mechanic for the motor mount they discovered that the transmission additive had not worked and we needed a new one.
We bought a rebuilt one and now we are still left with a car that shakes when we are idling. We have had the car in two or three times after the transmission was put in for them to try and fix the issue. They have done everything short of removing the engine without any luck. Just to be sure they covered every possible angle, they just gave us new spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor rotor, distributor cap and PCV valve, but it didn't seem to do anything. The car shakes the most while idling in Drive, somewhat less in Park, somewhat less than that in Neutral and not at all in Reverse. The shaking gets even stronger if the A/C or defroster is turned on. It seems to be even worse when stopped on a downward slope. It has been several months of this and the shaking is incredibly annoying. Is there anything else our mechanic could look into?
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A few weeks ago, my transmission (automatic) started rumbling while shifting from 3rd to 4th and 4th to 5th gear. Shakes the whole car, like you're driving over a rumble strip. Only when the engine is hot. I read online that I should get my transmission flushed and replace the fluid, but should I be expecting the thing to go or is this a normal hiccup for the Santa Fe?
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My truck will be running real good then all at once start missing so bad it shakes gear shifter,spits and pops and then goes back to running fine.
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It's an 04 F350 6.8L This past winter when it was cold I would start it up and it would rock forward and bounce back as is you shifted in to park while rolling. Now that it's warmed up it won't jerk forward but the whole body shakes only at start up. As much as I like the idea of of the raw torque being so powerful the truck twists with power I don't think that's the case.
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