I'm having a problem with acceleration on cold start. It's an auto transmission model. Car always hesitate and jerks a bit before accelerating. Also acceleration is slow.
View 2 RepliesI would like to know how to check the fluid lever on this car I have been told there is a fill hole and that's where its checked, how this is done. I know they say its filled for life but I would like to know if its full or not...
View 2 RepliesI purchased a 2012 Subaru Forester 2.5X Premium (automatic transmission) in November 2011 with 4 miles on it. Since the get-go it has had issues, but we thought that some of them might work themselves out as we broke the car in (which we were religious about). At the first oil change, we told the dealership about the issues we were experiencing and got the expected "the computer doesn't say anything is wrong" and "we couldn't replicate the problems" excuses. We were told to bring it back if the problems continued. Well, they've gotten worse. Here are what we are experiencing:
- Erratic shifting. I commute from the mountains to the city every day, so I need power from the car. Sometimes, when I'm heading down a hill and I tap the gas slightly to give myself a little boost, the car will suddenly downshift, even though it was sitting at 2500 RPM and didn't need to get any extra power beyond more fuel. Going up the hill is worse, as if you are not actively accelerating (including if you are trying to maintain a constant speed), it will upshift on you and you lose all power, so it will need to downshift to make up for this. It does this constantly for the entire drive home. Everyone who has driven this car in the mountains has experienced this.
- Jerky transmission. When the car shifts, it is super harsh and tends to throw you forward or back. Even when on flat ground it shifts roughly.
- Sluggish acceleration. If I give the car any more gas than I usually do, it hesitates before going anywhere. One day I needed to get over on the highway fast and floored it - it took the car about 2 seconds to respond. Then, yesterday, we were turning on to a highway from a side road and I tried to accelerate (gas about 1/2 way to the floor) and it didn't respond at all for about 5 seconds and the "Check Engine" and the traction control lights started flashing at me. We were on a paved road with no gravel, water, ice, etc and the traction control light began flashing on the straight, not while we were turning. There are also days when it feels like there is an anchor tied to the car and it just doesn't want to give me any umph at all.
- Rough starts. This is the really weird one as there is no rhyme or reason as to when it happens. Some times it takes the car several revolutions to turn over. Oddly, it's never on the really cold (under 20 degrees F) days, but it has happened when it is ~35 degrees and a couple of times when I have started it in the middle of the day to grab lunch and it is ~65 degrees out.
- Running rough. This usually happens after a rough start, but can also happen at other times. It just idles very rough and won't calm down. These are the days I have the worst time with the shifting issues.
I had a 2001 Forester that threw a rod, which forced me to get this car. Everyone who has driven both agrees that the 2001 was quicker, easier to drive, and had more gumption than the 2012. It also had less problems even though I purchased it used in 2005 (until the whole rod-throwing thing, of course). I really want to love my 2012 Forester, but I am so upset that, for the first time in my life I have a new car, and it runs terribly.
I just bought 2011 Camry 2.5 6auto with 57k miles on it. The car make a rattle noise for a second or so on a cold start when sets overnight. I took it to the dealer yesterday and they replaced the timing gear assembly under warranty. This morning when I started the car in the morning it made the same rattle noise. I am going to take it back to the dealer next week.
My question is has any one had this rattle noise? if so, did the noise go away after the dealer replaced the cam gear? Also, Do you think this rattle will affect the engine in the long term?
My camry has been great up until the last week. The weather has gotten extremely cold here and when I start driving in the morning or from any cold starts the transmission doesn't shift out of second gear. After I drive it a mile or so and slow almost to a stop it will shift normally until I park it.
It has 125000 miles on it and I hope this isn't a serious problem because it is a great car and has been well taken care of. Looks brand new on the inside and out and I've never had any problems until now.
I have a 2011 Avalon Limited and live in the Dallas area. Are used the auto setting on my thermostat all the time. I noticed that in cold weather, the AC almost always switches on as part of the thermostat function. I don't understand that. For example, its 30 degrees outside, & I select Auto and set the temperature to 70 degrees, and the green AC light goes on. I want to avoid using more gas than I need to use, so I'm wondering why this might be so. It's a simple matter to simply press the AC and turn it off, but I'm wondering why it goes on in the first place.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 Hyundai Accent 1.6L GLS with auto transmission.
Recently, I've noticed a hard "tump" in the mornings when it auto shifts from first to second gear. It is loud and VERY noticeable. Aftera bout 7-10 minutes when the car warms completely up, it runs fine with not thump.
I've searched the forums for this and have found no answer.
It still runs fine but the morning "thump" scares the crap out of me and startles me every time.
I purchased the vehicle used a few months ago, it has 175,000 km on it. I don't know the history of the transmission but the car seems to be in really good shape otherwise...
Just curious. is it possible to convert my auto camry to manual transmission? also, how much would it be? where can i go?
View 5 Replies2009 Camry SE 2.4L. I have been noting an unfamiliar vibration of sorts in my gas pedal for some time, but did not notice smells, overheats, noises, fluid loss, DTCs or anything. Today on my way to work I started to notice hard shifting. The RPMs would rev up, fall down and shift hard. At time the RPMs would climb to 5k before dropping back down then shifting. Got worse, then finally when I was trying to U turn across the road (was stopped in gear) I lost all gears. I could shift to any gear, engine RPMS would remain stable, but no movement. Pressing on the gas just hiked the revs.
I pushed it off the road, and killed the engine and could get it to engage for short periods then no gears again. Seems like if I let it sit for a bit it will work for a short while, then no gears again. Had it towed home. Trans fluid indicates full, no burnt coloring or smell to it. No indications of leaks. After the tow I was able to drive it up into my driveway.
For clarity, I can move the selector to any gear and that feels normal. The engine does not bog down. I simply am not engaging any gear. Thinking sensor? Maybe heat related?
how do I check the transmission oil on my 2011 Camry LE (2ARFE). I am curious as this car has 98K miles now and I cannot locate the dipstick for the Transmission oil. I got the car 2 years ago at 89K miles.
A technician once told me it's going to be a flush.
I only do 135 miles every week and I am located in Africa.
How do I check the transmission oil and how often should I change it?
My wife have a 2004 Camry SE V4 with auto transmission. She went to TJ Max yesterday and the car is stuck in park, we had to tow the car home. Pushing the Park override button does release it and allow me to shift and drive.
The car starts, head lights, cabin lights, radio and power lock works, BUT power window and AC/climate control does not work at all, dead, no power.
My brake lights work with the exception that one bulb is dead, has been dead for a long time without causing any issues. I pulled out ALL the fuses in cabin and engine, all the fuses are in good shape. I tried looking for a Brake fuse but there is none, tripled check the big fuses but none are blown. I also tried looking for the brake solenoid by the brake pedal but, I didn't know which one it was or where it is located.
I have a 2002 Camry 4 cyl LE with a 4spd automatic transmission. Recently I have been experiencing slow long shifts from 1-2 and 2-3. It's as if it is coasting in neutral for a couple of seconds before finally engaging the next gear. I experience this sensation only after the vehicle has cooled down. The transmission will start to shift like normal within 3 miles of driving. I have only experienced this recently as the weather has started to drop.
I have not changed my transmission fluid much as it is a synthetic and Toyota claims it will last the life of the car. I did a drain and fill at 90K mi. The car currently has 150K mi on it and after experiencing these problems I did a drain and fill, drove the car 10 miles and repeated with another drain and fill. This seemed to have worked on the first day after doing this but now it is back to the slow long shifts. I am thinking of cleaning the strainer and taking the car in to have the transmission flushed. Is there a way to tell if my transmission is failing?
My wife's 2004 V6 Camry is not happy. As you accelerate from a stop, the automatic transmission will go from first gear to second, and then sometimes just drop spontaneously into neutral. Because you are in the process of accelerating, the engine RPMs increase until you take your foot of the pedal. In the short trip to the dealership for testing, the problem seemed to reset itself when the car was fully stopped. Other times it just reengaged with the transmission on its own without stopping.
Each time the transmission disengages, another strange thing happens--the instrument panel goes bonkers. The speedometer needle drops to zero, but the tach keeps working. The ABS, check engine, and brake lights turn on.
The dealership had the car for several days and has only been able to scan codes indicating the ABS system and the rear wheel speed sensors. I'm skeptical--especially since the repair estimate is nearly $4,000! I'm taking the car to an independent shop tomorrow for a second opinion.
I can follow up with more details from the dealership's diagnostic report, but for now, all I can say is that the car has almost 100,000 miles and we haven't had a bit of trouble with it until now. I replaced the transmission fluid about 10,000 miles ago.
Going to replace motor mounts. Foot on brake and placed in gear engine flexes back about 2". Doesn't seem to flex side to side or forward. Replaced dog bone the metal in the middle of the bushing had a visible crack. Still flexes. I am confused about replacing them. Should I replace all including the 2 rear mounts? This is what I have read in many posts and been told by a trans shop. Can I just replace the front and dog bone? Parts guy told me that was all that I needed to do if it wasn't flexing side to side. These things are expensive 170- ea for oems so if I don't have to replace the rear I won't. However I don't want to trash the new ones cause I didn't replace them all.
View 3 RepliesI have Toyota Camry 2011 4-dr LE. While I was on a road trip recently, the car did something very odd. The vehicle started to cut out and it then stopped. I have to note that it was at a high altitude (somewhere in the Colorado Mountains). After the incident I was able to start up again and the vehicle operated as expected. This is not the problem I wanted to ask about, however I thought I would mention it in case you think it might be related.
Here is the problem I have: When coming to a slow stop or driving in the slow traffic, sometimes the vehicle seems to accelerate when the break is released, as if I have pressed the gas pedal. I would expect that once slowed down the Camry will maintain its speed. Other times while my foot is still on the brake pedal (lightly pressing it during a slow down) I would feel as if I have released the brake for a second and the car accelerates (at which time my reflexes kick in and I press the pedal harder). In addition, the transmission seems to hesitate on up shift. I have noticed multiple times that the transmission does not shift on-time and I could feel it when I drive slower.
So here is my question: Could the problem with acceleration during braking be also related to transmission down/up shift problems? Since the problem with brake malfunctioning and engine acceleration is very infrequent, when I took the car to the dealer they could not find anything wrong.
Driving home the other day I crossed some railroad tracks. They weren't too bad, but bumpy. I wasn't going too fast over them, had slowed a bit with traffic. As I cleared the tracks and hit the gas, nothing happened. The car hadn't stalled and I didn't hear any noises, but for about a second as I pressed the gas, it didn't go in gear.
I think the engine revved, like it was in neutral. I looked down and the traction control light was blinking, but no clicking noises were heard. After a second it started acting normal again, and I have gone over those tracks again the next day to try to replicate and it didn't happen again. Is this a known issue, traction control kicks in when a bump is hit...but no clicking noise like i usually get on ice/snow? Or should I have it looked at?
I have a 2004 camry 2.2L with 97,000, automatic. Yesterday it would start but had no acceleration and CEL. SO towed it home and scaned and got P2101, which said low accelerator motor. SO I cleaned the throttle body and everything was good and reset code. This morning same thing happened...it is around 18 degrees outside. After it warmed up outside no problem and no CEL? WTF? Obviously I have a problem with the throttle body when it's cold. What to try next?
View 9 RepliesAny input on replacing the entire transmission valve body or just individual shift solenoids? My truck has begun experiencing a harsh shift from 1st to 2nd under light acceleration accompanied by occasional shift flare from 2nd to 3rd and 5th to 6th. I have located parts to do either job. It looks straight forward from just disconnecting the harness. I also understand there are different bands associated with the solenoids. Is there a requirement to have new transmission programming to accompany swapping these components?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2010 Camry 2.5 liter with 150k miles. I have begun to notice a shudder around 30-45 mph during normal acceleration. It does not happen during a hard acceleration. As I watch the rpm's when the car shifts the shudder happens after the rpm's drop when the car is engaging in the next gear. After some research I'm led to believe I have a failing torque converter. If it is the torque converter can just the converter itself be replaced or does the whole transmission need to be replaced.
View 11 RepliesA neighbor of mine has a 2007 Camry, and always turns off her AC before she turns off the vehicle, and back on only after the car has started back up, to avoid putting a toll on her battery. I recall with a friends 2005 Lexus ES that you can hold an AC control down while you start your car, which engages a mode that automatically delays the start of your AC by a few seconds when you start the car to avoid having to do this yourself. You only have to set this up once, and going forward, it "knows" what to do. I have tried to search for this hidden key combination, but have had no luck finding it in either Lexus or Toyota forums.
View 12 RepliesHave this problem when the temperature is below 30F? This problem appeared one day when the car was parked outside overnight and the temperature dipped into the 20s. It refuses to upshift to 2nd from 1st unless driven for 10 minutes or so and will grind when downshifting to first even from 3 mph. The upshift to 2nd feels like a wall blocking so I just end up shifting to 3rd straight from 1st until it's warmed up for 10 minutes or so. Worn syncros? Shift fork/linkages? Dragging clutch? I'm sure the dealer will want to replace the fluid first but new fluid will not fix mechanical problems if indeed that's what it is. Strange part is that both 1 and 2 both started to have the problem at the same time so how can both synchros go out at once and this problem only appeared this winter and not last winter so it doesn't seem like its an inherent problem from the start.
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