Camry :: 2007 - How To Delay AC Auto On At Vehicle Start-up
Aug 1, 2012
A neighbor of mine has a 2007 Camry, and always turns off her AC before she turns off the vehicle, and back on only after the car has started back up, to avoid putting a toll on her battery. I recall with a friends 2005 Lexus ES that you can hold an AC control down while you start your car, which engages a mode that automatically delays the start of your AC by a few seconds when you start the car to avoid having to do this yourself. You only have to set this up once, and going forward, it "knows" what to do. I have tried to search for this hidden key combination, but have had no luck finding it in either Lexus or Toyota forums.
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Starting yesterday, when I start my 2007 Elantra....I turn the key, everything lights up as normal, I hear the fuel pump turn on.....then there is no other sounds for between 1-3 seconds. Then the car starts and runs normally. I remember reading about things like this but of course can't find it now that i need it!
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I have a 2010 S with an auto trans and 68,000 miles. I've never replaced the fluid or filter. Over the last 10,000 miles or so, I've noticed the following in regards to shifting.
I will being on a merge ramp to the highway rolling along and waiting to pull out into the flow of traffic. I'll be traveling along at a constant speed, say 30 mph, with constant pressure on the throttle waiting for my opening in traffic. I will see my opening and floor it. That's when (sometimes) the car seems to get very confused. It doesn't shift back right away, it lingers in 3rd (or OD) and picks up a tiny bit of speed. Then, it hesitates with no acceleration, and then roughly shifts to 2nd or 1st. It feels more like it forces itself into gear and, once in gear, it accelerates like it should.
The biggest issue for me is that this whole process takes about 3 or 4 seconds. That's not very long, but when you're trying to merge onto the highway or cut into traffic, 3 seconds is the difference between being safe and a close call.
Transmission fluid appears to be full, is a nice red color, and doesn't smell burnt.
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2007 Camry LE. I keep my headlights in the AUTO position and have had two instances recently where they did not come on, and it was plenty dark enough that they should have. I was able to turn them ON, then back to auto, and some sequence of that finally got them to come on while on AUTO, but it was a little scary. I had other drivers flashing their lights at me so I would turn mine on. I guess I'll have to check every time from now on.
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07 camry 4cyl high oil consumption doing oil changes every 5k. Car has 61000 miles on it. I had to put 2 quarts of oil just before oil changes, oil level was still below low, so car burns 3 qrt of oil every 5k. What should i do?
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My wife's 07 Camry cranks then immediately dies. I tried to crank it again and it want even start at all.
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Was cold this morning...started up my car, and noticed oil kind of sprayed on the snow on passenger side towards front of vehicle. Vehicle is a 2007 camry le with about 80k on it. Guess I will park it until I find out what it might be.
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Going to replace motor mounts. Foot on brake and placed in gear engine flexes back about 2". Doesn't seem to flex side to side or forward. Replaced dog bone the metal in the middle of the bushing had a visible crack. Still flexes. I am confused about replacing them. Should I replace all including the 2 rear mounts? This is what I have read in many posts and been told by a trans shop. Can I just replace the front and dog bone? Parts guy told me that was all that I needed to do if it wasn't flexing side to side. These things are expensive 170- ea for oems so if I don't have to replace the rear I won't. However I don't want to trash the new ones cause I didn't replace them all.
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Working on my buddys 2003 camry, wont start, has air and spark and not getting fuel. replaced fuel pump already. If you hit it with a quite a bit of starting fluid it will fire up for a few moments and then die out, its got half tank of gas. The whole start of this is he ran out of gas and since then wont start.
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At least once a week key locks up and won't push in to start vehicle. Dealer service stated this is a security issue when you bump into the steering wheel it locks up, told me to move steering wheel. It did start after doing this. This is happening at least once a week and I should not have to move the steering wheel every time. It is frustrating since the vehicle is 3 months old. Tried all keys, even valet key, nothing works, until I move the steering wheel.
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2007 Camry LE 2.4
I just replaced the rear pads and rotors with no issues other than having to bang the cr@p out of the left rotor with a hammer to get it to come off. Now at pretty much all speeds I am hearing a rythmic humming-type sound that increases and decreases with vehicle speed. It's not a constant hum but more like one-hum-per-tire-revolution type of sound. It is coming from the left side as far as I can tell.
Thinking I had damaged the wheel bearing (and after searching the forums extensively) I replaced it with a brand new bearing from Advance Auto Parts. I re-checked the pads, rotors, all bolts, everything is lubricated properly, etc. Just took it out for a test drive and the noise is still there. Sometimes it gets louder when breaking but not always. I rotated tires and the sound did not follow the tire. The pads aren't stuck or rubbing excessively as far as I can tell.
This sort of thing has happened in the past on the left rear. It would sometimes happen when I swapped the summer tires for my winter tires on steelies, the left rear would make the humming sound, I'd take the wheel off and put it back on 180 degrees rotated and the sound would go away. I've done that a few times too and it has not worked.
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Wife called me this evening saying she's stuck at work. She was parked in a parking garage on the 3rd level, she started the car up, coming down the ramps of the garage and on the first floor at a stop sign, the vehicle stalled out on her. She went to restart it, but it will not turn over. I come out and tried to start it with no luck. I did notice on the positive side of the battery terminal there was a lot of corrosive discharge. I cleaned that all up, but still no luck. Everything has power, bright interior lights and headlights okay. I originally thought it was just cold or lean... But still won't kick over.
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I have had no problems with my Camry until one day it didn't crank or start. I first thought either battery or starter. Well the battery tested at 100%, alternator.
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I'm having a problem with acceleration on cold start. It's an auto transmission model. Car always hesitate and jerks a bit before accelerating. Also acceleration is slow.
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I have a 07 Elantra with 68,000 miles. I am having a cold start issue. When the car sits overnight and I attempt to start/place the car into gear (auto), the car will stall. This occurs whether the car is placed in forward/reverse and with the a/c on/off. The vehicle will start fine the rest of the day with no issues.
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My 2006 V6 Camry XLE feels like there is a delay between hitting the pedal and the car accelerating. I also notice it bucks (changes gears at the wrong time) occasionally when pressing the pedal than backing off of it a little. The hesitation has always been there but lately its been really bothering me because I drove someone else car (Hyundai Sonata 4 cylinder )and felt how smooth it accelerated and how responsive it was at lower speeds. I know this car has drive by wire which probably has something to do with the problem. How to alleviate this issue? I don't think there's anything mechanically wrong.
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I have recently purchased a 2007 Lexus and just starting having a problem when trying to accelerate when I first start to car and try to move forward.
Basically I put the car in drive accelerate, the RPM is high but the car moves at a snails pace of at all.
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I have a 2010 Santa Fe Limited. When I first bought it, I'm pretty sure the headlights would delay turning off for a few seconds after removing the ignition key. Now they turn off as soon as the ignition key is turned off. Is that normal? I can find nothing in the User Manual and the dealer does not seem to know how it works.
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For the most part, I'm pretty happy with my 2010 Santa Fe SE (V6 AWD Automatic).
When I'm coming up to a yield sign, or otherwise slowing down to say 5-10 miles an hour but not a complete stop, and then when I start to try to go again, there is a hesitation and then the vehicle kind of jerks as it starts. It's like it takes a half second to a second for the throttle to respond, and by then it revs higher than I expect. I don't know if it's the throttle delay or a delay downshifting before it starts, or a combination of the two.
I've also noticed that a half second or so delay when just sitting in park and quickly pressing the throttle and releasing. I can press the pedal to about 50% and release it before the RPMs respond at all. Then it'll rev up and back down as you'd expect, just not WHEN you'd expect.
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I got the fuel pump and fuel pump control module replaced. Now I am still getting a cold start delay (5-10 seconds to start) and it has a rough idle sounding like its misfiring. This happened when i picked it up at the dealership after a new fuel pump BUT! keep in mind it has been doing this for a while so i figured it was the fuel pump.
New oem plugs and the coils were replaced when i bought the car because the coils failed during a test drive I need to scan the codes but i will post. Also this only happens during a cold start. if the car is warm and i go into target or something then start it shortly after its fine.
TSB'S I think will fix this. [URL] .....
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Ive noticed that if I start my car, and put it into drive, there's a 2-3 second delay before the car moves after hitting the gas. It almost feels like the car is stalling, but it's not. It only happens that first time after a cold start.
If I put my car into reverse first, like when backing out of the garage, it doesn't do it. Only when going directly from park to drive. Is this normal?
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