Starting yesterday, when I start my 2007 Elantra....I turn the key, everything lights up as normal, I hear the fuel pump turn on.....then there is no other sounds for between 1-3 seconds. Then the car starts and runs normally. I remember reading about things like this but of course can't find it now that i need it!
View 4 Replies2007 Elantra GLS won't start from time to time. Battery and fuel pump replaced and still won't turn over. It just sounds like it's trying then dies. I see similar posts but no real solution?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2006 F450 6.0 Super Heavy Duty. The Problem that I am having is when I turn the key it wont crank over. In order for it to start I have to hold the key in the crank position (like i am trying to start it) for about 20+ seconds, and then it will start cranking over. After it cranks over it starts just fine no problems. This only occurs when I start the truck up for the first time each day. After the initial start of the day its fine. (FYI I turn the ignition to the on position and just let it set it still takes me turning the key to the crank position and holding it 20+ seconds).
View 5 RepliesMy 07 Elantra SE (5 speed manual) without ESC is terrible in the snow. While traveling at almost any speed, and braking around a turn, the rear end (under icy conditions) will break free and the car is out of control. No warning was given. While traveling in a straight line on hard-pack snow (icy) with ruts, the rear end gave way and I ended up in the ditch. Didn't break or turn the wheel prior to this.I love the car but am afraid to drive it in the snow. Does ESC (electronic stability control) take care of this problem? I love the car otherwise; always get over 30 mpg (usually 33-34 mpg).
View 15 RepliesOk, so, according to my dad, his car battery died, and he had to have it jumped. After the jump, apparently his headunit will no longer turn on. We think it may be a blown fuse, in which case we need to know the location of the fuse (and probably the rating & label of it, for identification's sake). I have an aftermarket headunit in my Santa Fe, and the fuse for that is in the back of the actual unit itself, so I don't know if there's a fuse in the back of his factory stereo too...? However, we are not exactly sure what the problem is. My dad's car is a 2007 Hyundai Elantra with the premium factory audio system installed. He gets Sirius-XM and has an aux input (everything pertaining to audio is factory-installed).
View 2 RepliesA neighbor of mine has a 2007 Camry, and always turns off her AC before she turns off the vehicle, and back on only after the car has started back up, to avoid putting a toll on her battery. I recall with a friends 2005 Lexus ES that you can hold an AC control down while you start your car, which engages a mode that automatically delays the start of your AC by a few seconds when you start the car to avoid having to do this yourself. You only have to set this up once, and going forward, it "knows" what to do. I have tried to search for this hidden key combination, but have had no luck finding it in either Lexus or Toyota forums.
View 12 RepliesHyundai 2007 Elentra Manual 5 speed..
Car won't start, Replaced Battery.
Have checked starter motor, its fine and cranking over
Have checked spark plugs and they are sparking.
Fuel pump wasn't working and after spending ages getting the back seats off and causing movement there, the car started. So fuel pump was replaced. Car went back to not starting after fuel pump replaced. Could this still be an associated issue with the 2008 recalls (Some components in the original fuel pump may be compromised by ethanol blended fuel.) Have checked relays and they seem to be working and fine. Have connected up and tried to find any fault readings come up and nothing is there.
My girlfriend went to start her car this morning only to find that it would not start and there is a click coming from the horn fuse. Went to try to jump start the car and the horn actually came on, but still would not start. I have researched a little and found this can be a common problem with the rubber bumper under the hood or caused by unlocking the door with the key and not not the remote start. She called hyndai and they suggested to charge the battery and then try to shut the alarm off with the fob.
View 2 RepliesI Have a sonata 2007 2.4L automatic and I just had a start problem today. I turned the start key and nothing no crank, all the light in the dashboard are ok, i can hear the fuel pump and my batery is fine. I tried 5 time to start it and nothing I wait 10 minutes and the car started ..
View 10 RepliesDrove the car yesterday all was fine. Came home and shut it off. Went to start it about an hour later and the ignition key will not turn. Tried a second key and still no luck. Disconnected the battery and waited for about 10 mins. Reconnected battery still no luck. Wiggled steering wheel and shifter (automatic) still no luck.
View 16 RepliesMy 2007 Accent will not start. It doesn't turn over. All it does is beep when I turn the key. It is a long high pitched beep, followed by three sets of two shorter beeps. The engine doesn't turn over at all. The dome light works, as does the radio and dash lights, so I don't think the battery is dead.
I'm wondering if its a starter problem, but the beeping must be some kind of error message, right?
I have a 07 Elantra with 68,000 miles. I am having a cold start issue. When the car sits overnight and I attempt to start/place the car into gear (auto), the car will stall. This occurs whether the car is placed in forward/reverse and with the a/c on/off. The vehicle will start fine the rest of the day with no issues.
View 8 RepliesI have an automatic 2004 f150 fx4 with a 5.4 engine. I just bought the truck and noticed the other day that when I shift into reverse, there is a 1-2 second delay. Sometimes it will shift quicker than other times. Drive seems to be a little more swift I think. Everything seems to run smooth and the shifting is very smoot other than the delay. Is this normal or what could be some of the causes. The previous owner has the ATF changed this pst summer and it looks and smells fine other than maybe having to much fluid.
View 2 RepliesI've got an 04' F150 and the ONLY problem I have with it is a ridiculously sluggish throttle. I bought the Superchips Tuner in hopes of eliminating this, but the delay in the throttle is still there (power is much better however). When I talk delay, I am talking hitting the gas and probably a realistic .5-1 sec delay. It is quite annoying to say the least.
My question...is there something that I can do myself to improve the throttle response? I drove an older 150..probably an 02 or 03 and it felt sooooo much more powerful just do to the throttle. I am even willing to ditch the Superchips if the Ford re-tune would do a better job.
Still having issues with the transmission on my 05 F350. I posted before that it would take a few seconds to go into drive or reverse. The fixes were to change filters and do hot flush. I had the dealer do a hot flush, and then I put about 1000 miles on it. That didn't seem to fix anything, so I went back in and asked for more info. They did not change the filters. I thought they did, but found out they did not after the fact, so I decided to change the filters myself.
The interior filter was easy to change. The fluid was clean, and the magnet had shavings on it but nothing that seemed extraordinary. The exterior filter is impossible to get off. I reviewed posts on here before trying, so first was the impact wrench, then the pipe wrench, then the pipe wrench with a block wedged in to keep the thing from bending, still no luck. The cast nut broke off well before the pipe wrench came out of the drawer. How to get that thing off. I read on here somewhere that no fluid goes through that until 180 degrees, is that correct?
Scanguage says it rarely goes over 160, except for last evening when I was stuck in traffic. It went to 187, with ECT at 208. During this period, traveling under 40 most of the time, the transmission was shifting erratically, to the point I wanted to pull over and allow it to cool down. But traffic broke free, speed went up, and temps went down. Shifting returned to normal, except when trying to engage drive or reverse. The 3-4 second delay persists at any temp, and there doesn't seem to be any slippage. Just delayed and sometimes hard engagements. I'm at a loss for whats wrong.
Just had both my low beam D4S headlights replaced at an auto shop. Once I turn the car on or flick the low beam headlights on, they turn on for about 10 seconds and then the driver followed by the passenger low beam headlights turn off. Why this is happening as both bulbs are brand new. Before I had the bulbs replaced only one bulb worked so I elected to get both replaced.
View 2 RepliesWell it's been an ongoing problem with my 4r100, but last week it all come to a point. Reverse delay is getting to near 10seconds then abruptly engages. My 1-2 shift is so soft I have to look down and see my tach to make sure it shifted up. I now have trans squeal during ever shift including OD. Also have a loud screech that gets louder the faster you go, BUT the old girl is still moving the truck and oddly the fluid isn't burnt looking or smells burnt? That's one has me puzzled...
So Tuesday after work I'm pulling the transmission (in the driveway) and bringing it to the shop Thursday. Getting a billet steel converter, having all the planetary gears upgraded to six and four pinion, one way sprag will now be solid steel instead of the plastic one Ford put there, all the bearings will be upgraded to Torrington, I'll have the 45 roller sprag bearing upgrade as well as the 17 roller for reverse, I'm going with Borg Warner and Kolen steels, new solenoid pack.
I'm having the pump pump machined and sonnex upgrades done to it, spiral snap ring on OD piston, case will be machines not hand resurfaced, reverse gear plastic washers will be removed and the gear is getting machined for a Torrington bearing and steel spacer, clutch drum will be machined for a 360 spiral clip, locking snap ring on the OD piston, center support will have some machine work done to it, and I'm having the forward drum plug removed and the hole will be tapped for a steel plug.
So I just bought a 2002 Elantra with 72k on the clock (legitimate) and I'm having issues where the car will start fine in the morning and idle normally, however, say I come back to go somewhere else about two hours later, when I start it the car will rev up to 3k and stay there for about 3 seconds and jump down to normal idle speed. What's the issue?
View 7 RepliesHere is the story, My HID headlights at 45k miles started to flicker and within seconds turn off. My only solution was to turn the lights on/off but the problem would constantly reoccur.
After calling the dealership and speaking to the morons there, I decided to replace the bulbs myself. I successfully replaced both hid headlight bulbs and the bulbs seemed to work perfectly. Sadly, the next day I realized that bulbs would still go out, sometimes the left side, sometimes the right side, sometimes both sides.
I have a 08 6.4l F250SD. At 127k miles, it has been a great truck. All service has been performed by dealer. When I shift from Park into drive there is a 3-5 second delay, and when it drops into drive the truck rocks. Once driving there are no shift issues. Into reverse there are no issues.
View 14 RepliesOk I am getting a (6R140) transmission behaviour every morning drive or later in the day after the transmission cools down. I am experiencing a 2-3 second delay of engagement when putting truck in Reverse. This happens EVERY time whether transmission is cold or warmed up. I am also having very hard/harsh shift fares going into 3rd gear and 5th gear with the 3rd gear being the worse of the two. Also experiencing these hard/harsh shift when downshifting as well.
I took the truck to my local dealer and I let it sit over night in their lot so they could experience it at its worst after sitting all night. They definitely recognized the issue. But since it wasn't throwing and codes. I find this an unacceptable answer.
I brought to their attention that this issue is well documented online and a lot are having success with performing TSB 11-7-10 (replacing solenoids) They looked it up and said my truck doesn't apply to TSB because of the build date. My window sticker and VIN # implies the truck was built 10-11-2010. Which from my understanding, does fall under the required TSB. None the less, I insisted that I know I'm out of warranty and I will just pay to have this TSB performed. They refused.
What should I do? I know everyday I run my truck with this issue it is decreasing the reliability of this transmission and it will most likely end with a full transmission replacement.