Ford Transmission :: AOD Torque Convertor 4x4 Versus 2wd
Apr 16, 2012
I bought a "rebuilt" 2wd AOD off craigslist for my bronco 2wd conversion that ended up needing re rebuilt due to wrong parts installed,since it was a bearing issue and worried about metal shavings I did not reuse the 2wd torque convertor and used the one from the 4x4 trans since I knew it worked. Are there any differences in a 2wd vs 4x4 convertors like stall speed to keep the motor running a little higher for off road performance.
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My '01 f350 up and running the last 5 years. The truck has 130,000 miles on it and the transmission quit on me two weeks ago. My mechanic pulled the tranny and sent it to a very reputable rebuilder for a complete rebuild. My mechanic then reinstalled the tranny. I picked up the truck and when I paid the bill my mechanic told me that the rebuilder provided a new 4-plate torque convertor and that I would hear it rattle when I was at stop signs, stop lights etc. and that this was normal for these types of torque convertors. I have searched this forum and found all kinds of reasons for this rattle. None of which tell me this noise is normal or should be expected. I have no problem going back to my mechanic and discussing flex plate cracks, engine/tranny misalignment or any of the other causes...
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My son bought a 1999 F250 Diesel about a year ago. The seller gave him receipts showing that the 4R100 had been rebuilt and a new T.C. installed 25k miles before the sale. The problem is that it is slipping. He says it started with 2nd gear, now it will hardly move in 1st.
Fluid smells a little burnt. We pulled the transmission pan expecting to find lots of friction material. It does not have as much as I thought it would, not as much as I have found in the the pans of the few other auto trans I have seen with worn out frictions. Below are pics of the inside of the pan.
Or, is it the T.C. that is slipping. I have never had a vehicle with a bad T.C. How do you diagnose it? I have experience rebuilding (GM) Turbo 400's and 4L60's. Never had a ford AT apart.
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Replaced Troque Converter, Truck runs engine runs fine transmission won't shift out of 1st gear.
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So here I am driving away for the fuel station and then the tranny tries to shift and I hear and feel a loud clunk followed by no power. I have had no previous issues with the tranny but I believe it has not had any previous work done. The truck is an 02 7.3L with 200500 miles. I am guessing the torque converter is the culprit it still had very little forward motion when I tried to move the truck didn't matter what gear I was in. I intend to have the tranny beefed up but don't intend to go crazy. I do tow an 11,000 lbs TT on a fairly regular basis and have a PHP 6 position switch which can be set for as much as 120 hp from stock but don't do any hot rodding. I am mostly just looking to beef it up and provide as much strength towing.
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is there and idle sensor in the torque converter? (Ford f250 5.4 gas 2 wd)
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I have been looking at getting a Ranger torque splitter for years . You always read where people say they are noisy. Noise can be a relative term so I did some testing. I used a sound meter on my smart phone to test my trucks and see how "loud" they are in the cab at 60 mph.
81 f-250 4x4; 88 decibels windows shut.
98 Ranger ; 79 decibels with windows shut
98 Ranger ; 87 decibels windows open
81 f-250 ; 91 decibels , 4x4 low range, high gear, 30 mph
81 f-250; 93 decbels, 4x4 low range high gear 3000 rpm , 35 mph
All test performed at 60 mph , 2200 rpm, no radio , windows up , unless otherwise noted. Ranger stock exhaust, f-250 flowmaster to the rear tire.
Question is : How loud is the Ranger Torque splitter?
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My 94 e4od does a few things. It doesn't seem to engage positively all the time. It doesn't grab well in manual 1st, but does in D. I had the FIPL reset at the dealership and he said he never saw a FIPL needing to be set so far one way. Also it has overheated a few times. Either the TC doesn't lock up correctly or its just not all the way in gear (if thats possible) I changed the fluid but it did it again recently.
Also the speedometer is jumping around like a nut case, the abs light is on...sometimes, when I have the headlights on and put my right turn signal on it feels like the TC locks up. Oh, yeah the lights are all jacked up in the back. The left turn signal light also has a small amount of voltage when I put the headlamps on (my test light lights up dimly) I thought it might be the multi function switch so I removed that and cleaned the connections. Nothing changed but I dont think that was it. I have troubleshoot this all day and I don't have too much of a clue to whats going on.
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I have a f150 2002 with a 5.4 and 4r100 (yes im sure), and a week ago my torque converter started getting stock (locked) when i came to a stop making the engine stall (it took a couple of minutes before my engine got warmed up). I checked the codes and got 0740 and 0743 which relate to the tcc solenoid malfunctioning. To make sure the tc wasn't physically stuck y cut the purple wire that signals the solenoid to lock the converter, the truck ran fine and as expected the tcc never locked.
So I thought I narrowed it down to the solenoid pack, which I bought (300 bucks ouch) and changed it yesterday. Today again the same thing started happening and the truck is throwing me the same codes, so I am a bit frustrated. I don't wanna go ahead and buy a torque converter without knowing the real cause, what could it be? I didn't see any melted wires down there but could my long tubes be shorting that wire out randomly in an unseen place? or could my tc be bad?
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I was driving my 7.3 down the road and it started acting like the trans was slipping, it revved up and tried kicking down a couple times and when I slowed down and went to speed back up it just had no power coming through the trans to the wheels it just revved. I put it in neutral and it idled up for about 5 seconds. I put it in park n shut it down. I fired it back up after looking everything over and it moved about half mile down the road and no power to the wheels again. The trans is full of fluid, is there a sensor that could of went bad or just the torque converter or the entire thing shot? Only owned my truck 6 months has a trans and motor swap already from previous owner. 180k on current motor n Trans. 382k on my truck. t6 4" turbo back banks exhaust only mods I know of.
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My 1996 F150 has developed a strange vibration and nothing i have done seems to work. once it has shifted into drive it will shutter or vibrate under a light load. if i let off throttle or give it more throttle it stops. Seems to be most noticeable from 30-55 mph. I am thinking it is torque converter locking and unlocking but not sure. if it is torque converter does the converter lock and unlock electrically? if so where is the sensor on the bellhousing? I have looked around and cannot find anything as i was going to unplug it to see that was indeed the problem. its a 4rw70 tranny.
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I recently bought a 2001 x w 145,000 miles. The transmission was making a whining noise when i bought it but it still shifted smooth and ran great. The truck has been serviced by the local Ford dealer its entire life with dozens of routine maintenance performed. With 145,000 miles should I wait for the converter to go out and just install a new transmission. It only gets drove on the weekends to go to the lake.
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Searched with no results. What is the correct bolt torque for transmission pan bolts on a 2012 F350 6.7L?
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I removed my drift shaft to get balanced since I have felt a vibration at 55-60 mph. After removing the driveshaft I noticed there is some play in the output shaft when I grab a hold of the yoke on the transmission. The play is a slightly up and down. If my memory serves me right that should not be. Seal is not leaking but need diagram of this yoke off the output shaft. I know in past on other vehicles there is sometimes a crush washer. Also what is the torque specification for that output shaft nut?
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i just bought a cherry bomb glass pack and an exhaust system from summit. I am considering running no catalytic convertor. Anything i should know? I know it wont pass inspection but my truck wont pass right now anyway. I am more concerned with loss of power, or worse gas millage....
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Before taking to Ford or random trans shop just yet, looking for diagnosis recommendations (or an item or two to replace DIY). Torque converter bolts are broken or TC itself? Solenoid (but would expect a code)?
Issue: Doing 45MPH at the tail end of the 6hr drive, then engine simply revved and coasted to stop. No lurch, pop, noise felt like a manual transmission popped out of gear and into neutral. When the shift to R/D/L/4x4 hi/lo, can feel transmission engage. Engine revs and 'slips' are the best way to describe (no abnormal noise otherwise)I can feel it applying a very slight load (doesn't move, but can feel it try). No warnings/issues leading up to this in the 6yrs and 100k miles I have owned (has 174k miles now). No leaks/visible issues underneath.
Fluid is not burnt, the level is ok. Replaced (no flush) Mercon SP fluid at 125k when bulletproofing. No codes, including hard codes. Trans temp was 165 before/after, which is normal. All engine temps/values on Scanguage normal. SCT tune since bulletproof (though don't abuses it), set back to stock. Also disconnected pos/neg and touched both sets of cables together for several mins.
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I own a 2004 Ford Escape, auto, v6. I bought the car in 2007 and have had trouble with my check engine light ever since. It is usually on, but will turn off shortly after I wash it (then back on a week or so later). When mechanics test for the code, they say that my catalytic convertor needs to be replaced. In addition to the on/off strange behavior, I have been driving this car for 4 years now with no major mechanical trouble that I can only assume would result from not replacing the CC. This would be very expensive repair, one I am not interested in doing if this is possibly just an electrical problem. I am ready to get this problem solved and start driving check engine light free.
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During my 35 years of experience as a production line and service engineer in the aerospace industry, it was my job to determine the least expensive and easiest foolproof way to perform any production and service operation.
Many readers here have related their experience with the oil filter housing and their difficulty with its removal and reinstallation with the need of a torque wrench to correctly tighten it. Most all technical tightening of screw systems have gone to the "angular torque method," as it is more accurate than the standard torque wrench.
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The transmission drain plug torque on a 2011 Corolla s, u341e transmission.
I have heard 36ft lbs, I just feel like that is a lot and want to confirm. Any horror stories on snapping these plugs? I'm planning to get new crush washers.
Any experience with just using a fluid extractor to do multiple drain and fills from the dipstick? I've heard the tubing can sometimes melt/break off, but was considering this route to not have to deal with snapping a drain plug.
Tried searching, tried checking my hanyes manual and my factory service manual I have in pdf, neither lists a torque, or at least that I can find.
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I have a 2007 Sonata, performs flawlessly, my wife's 2011 Elantra, not so much. We've had issues with her car from the get-go. The Elantra has 32k miles on it. About 15k miles ago the dealership reprogrammed the transmission. Problem seemed to be fixed, to a degree. Hiccup here and there.
Last night when my wife came home from work she said it was shifting hard. I just shrugged it off. We came in to town, about 5 miles down a busy highway. 55mph, no problems.
Car sat for a couple hours. We got in the car to come home, buttery smooth first few shifts to 35 mph. Car had probably been running about 5 minutes. Pulled out onto highway, shifts 1-2 fine, 2-3 holds about 2500 rpms, won't shift, won't shift, BAM! repeat 3-4, and I believe 4-5. I was so shaken up I didn't count. I pulled off and took the back road and it continued to do it for about 3 miles. It almost feels like the torque converter is locking up. Someone mentioned a transmission temperature sensor, but that is only in Sonata's, no one has seen it in an Elantra.
By the time we got home, the car was shifting normal. This morning I get in it because now my wife won't drive it, and it works fine. Works fine all day.
Go into dealership, they say everything is fine, they called Hyundai, they say nothing wrong, come back when you have a problem.
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I have a 2001 Montana with 140,000 miles on it. I bought it used five years ago. The transmission is going out. The shop did a scan and found the torque converter clutch is sticking on. What this is? Should I make the repairs or ditch the van?
Good points: four new tires in December 2013; body is great; and minor maintenance repairs.
Bad points: the air conditioning is broken and the heat is forever terrible.
The van is currently at my regular shop and they do not do transmissions so I do not have an estimate or more information about the problem.
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